1HZ won't start....

[DanS HJ-45]

OK, so I have the 1HZ on it's little cart, and I've wired up the fuel cutoff solenoid (which clicks when power is on and off), hooked up fuel, and hooked up the starter. I also added a mechanical oil pressure gauge to make sure it's pumping oil.

So, it cranks just fine, and builds oil pressure real nicely, so no worries there. But it won't start.

I think it's a fuel problem, as I don't smell any fuel from the exhaust, and cracking the injector lines shows no fuel at all. Maybe some dampness in there when I remove the line entirely, but cracking the nuts and cranking there's nothing.

Any ideas from the collective here? The FSM pretty much says my IP is bad at this point, but that seems a bit odd for an engine that otherwise seems healthy and well maintained. The fuel intake line kind of looked like it had some form of preservative in it, but I find that odd because the engine was shipped on it's side for a thousand miles and that should have dripped out if it was fluid.

I'm thinking right now that there's some sort of congealed preservative in the intake line, but I don't know of any common preservatives that a mine would use when they pull engines out. Any ideas what this might be, or more importantly how to clean it out?

Dan

 

[Squash]

Try a see thru hose to make sure fuel is reaching the IP...if she gets fuel she should start.
Might even try gravity feeding fuel from above bypassing other problems.

 

[canucksafari]

I agree with running a clear fuel line to the IP. Just put a inline filter on it to protect your IP and then fill the line with a small funnel and then quicky insert it into your fuel source. The lift pump on the IP should do the rest. <A clamp - like needle nose vise grips -on the line will be your fuel shutoff solinoid.> If you still are not getting fuel at the injectors, then I would think it is time to take the IP to a fuel injection shop to be bench tested and inspected.

Edit: It might be a stupid question, but are you sure the IP is rotating and timed correctly? I am just wondering if anyone had the timing belt case open and did some messing about. Perhaps they forgot the cam shaft key or ...

 

[lumpy70]

When I pulled my 13B-T do do some work, when I put it back in it took A LOT of cranking to get it going. A LOT.

It's all fuel issues IMO. Like the other posters mentioned, check to see if fuel is actually getting to the pump without air bubbles. You could try putting an in-line pusher pump closer to the fuel source to try to get it moving. I did that on mine.

Craig.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

I'll give the clear line a try, and see if some gravity to push fuel to the IP makes a difference....

I'm not absolutely positive that it's turning, or timed correctly, but it also doesn't look like it's been off recently, so I'm hoping I don't have to do that. I guess if I have to pull it off there, I will take it to a bench anyway just to have it checked out.

Thanks for the input guys, I'll see what I can find next time I get to tinker with it...

Dan

 

[Combat Chuck]

When I saw this thread I couldn't help but grin.

Making progress with the HJ45, or just getting the itch to make sure your once-in-a-lifetime engine score is worth the considerably low price you paid for it?

I'm eager to read about whatever transpires! Good Luck!

 

[imabigbangkindaguy]

No experience with toyota diesels, but, on my Mercedes diesel, the same is true as to what lumpy 70 said, it took ALOT of cranking to get it going, close to 15 min, this was because the fuel pump was self bleeding and hed to bleed itself out. Hope that helped, if not forget I ever said anything.

richard

 

[DanS HJ-45]

When I saw this thread I couldn't help but grin.

Making progress with the HJ45, or just getting the itch to make sure your once-in-a-lifetime engine score is worth the considerably low price you paid for it?

I'm eager to read about whatever transpires! Good Luck!

Little bit of both. I just want to hear the engine run and stuff, but then I can get to work mating it to the H55f and T-case. I'll do all of that before I pull the truck into the shop, so that really all I'm doing when it comes time to making a mess is swapping axles and suspension, swapping engine/transmissions, and doing a 60 series PS conversion really.

Since the 40 is off to paint, it's getting close to being done, which means it's almost time for the 45 to get some love.

I bet we cranked for 2-3 minutes, so I'll try a LOT more too, in addition to the clear fuel line...

Dan

 

[Greg_B]

Do you have a Racor or factory filter setup available, with the built in primer pump? If so, hook it up, energize the fuel cut solenoid so the loop is open, and pump till the return fuel line starts returning fuel. Then try firing it up.

gb

 

[canucksafari]

No experience with toyota diesels, but, on my Mercedes diesel, the same is true as to what lumpy 70 said, it took ALOT of cranking to get it going, close to 15 min, this was because the fuel pump was self bleeding and hed to bleed itself out. Hope that helped, if not forget I ever said anything.

richard

You do not want to be dry cranking for long on a diesel like the 1HZ which has a rotary fuel pump. The only lube they get is from the diesel. So get diesel in the pump ASAP. If it doesn't have a bleeder on the IP, then crack the inlet banjo fitting and bleed the diesel to there and then crank.

 

[Bad Mojo]

Dan if you need to me to swap some parts off mine thats no problem, or if we want to try to start mine, so we see a running 1HZ we can do that as well.

I'm pretty free this weekend if you need a hand.

 

[lynchmob]

Regarding the timing belt or gears not being set up correctly. You would still be turning the pump which should draw fuel (and cracking the lines would leak some fuel) . If there is no Key in the cam for the sprocket well then you have a good chance for some bent valves.


If the IP is dry you can connect a low pressure feed pump to your diesel source - then crack the lines and turn it over with power to the cut solenoid. It should bleed out pretty quick. Then button it up and try to start it. I use a low pressure feed pump pretty often when starting an engine on a stand. Gregs idea is the same with the primer pump on some fuel filter heads.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

If the IP is dry you can connect a low pressure feed pump to your diesel source - then crack the lines and turn it over with power to the cut solenoid. It should bleed out pretty quick. Then button it up and try to start it. I use a low pressure feed pump pretty often when starting an engine on a stand. Gregs idea is the same with the primer pump on some fuel filter heads.

Greg and Chris: thanks. That idea seems like a winner to me. Easy, simple, and then I'd definitely be able to see that the fuel is in the IP, if it's coming out of the return line...

Bad Mojo: I wish I were around this weekend. Working. End of the month though....

Dan

 

[mudgudgeon]

No experience with toyota diesels, but, on my Mercedes diesel, the same is true as to what lumpy 70 said, it took ALOT of cranking to get it going, close to 15 min, this was because the fuel pump was self bleeding and hed to bleed itself out. Hope that helped, if not forget I ever said anything.

richard

I found similar when I had the IP off my 1HD-T, prime the hand pump on the fuel filter, undo injector lines at the injector, remove glow plugs (so no compression) crank it until a decent amount of fuel comes through the injector lines. then re-fit glow plugs, injector lines etc and try and fire it up.