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What is the correct battery specs for the auxiliary?
 
What is the correct battery specs for the auxiliary?

Slee lists a suggested battery in the description—an Interstate MT7-75DT. If you don't want the Interstate, you could probably find the dimensions somewhere.

If you want the easy way out for dual batteries, a few companies make a kit. National Luna is pretty well regarded (I have it, and it's been flawless). Otherwise the instructions you have already should work. Size the wire for the eventual load. The National Luna kit is 16mm squared, or around 5GA. I haven't tried, but supposedly that's enough to link the batteries together (via button on the controller) for heavy load stuff like winching.

 
Thanks!
The National Luna from Equipt is the one I've been planning to order... Been holding off til I get to this point.
I saw the battery spec in the tray instructions.. Is this a marine battery? Seems like I've seen guys using marine batteries for the auxiliary for the longer life between charges... Again, I don't really understand this stuff...
Any pointers on the wire, connectors, relays, switches etc that I need for the accessories? (lights, fridge, etc)
Thanks again
 
Got the Slee aux battery/ARB compressor tray installed.. Slick and easy. Good stuff.

View attachment 2297798

The whole dual battery/electrical accessories project is a bit over my head... I'm looking forward to learning this part but it's a bit confusing at the moment.
To start with, I plan to get the following items..
  • Wire (what grade/size?)
  • Loom
  • Relays (any particulars?)
  • Blue Sea fuse panel (details?)
  • Dual Battery controller
  • Switches
  • Connectors (which style is best?)
I think once I understand the items needed, it'll all start making sense. @REZARF sent me a good video about relays (thanks!) so I got a decent handle on that.

Input welcome.

Thanks MUDDERS
I got the same Slee tray installed to use with a second battery and ARB twin. I highly recommend this kit, has everything you need besides the crimper:

 
Thanks!
The National Luna from Equipt is the one I've been planning to order... Been holding off til I get to this point.
I saw the battery spec in the tray instructions.. Is this a marine battery? Seems like I've seen guys using marine batteries for the auxiliary for the longer life between charges... Again, I don't really understand this stuff...
Any pointers on the wire, connectors, relays, switches etc that I need for the accessories? (lights, fridge, etc)
Thanks again

It isn't—it's a pretty standard AGM. Lower self discharge, low/no maintenance. More expensive than a standard lead-acid battery.

For the wiring—I ran a fused 10GA to the back. It's connected to a Blue Sea fusebox (ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover - Blue Sea Systems), and from there to another Blue Sea panel (Water-Resistant Accessory Panel - Circuit Breaker, 12V Socket, Dual USB Charger, Mini Voltmeter - Blue Sea Systems). I like being able to see the aux battery voltage at a glance, and the fridge plugs in there as well.

The fusebox also handles 12V chargers/outlets, the fridge, the ham radio, and...probably a couple of other low-range things.

ARB makes a another way to cheat: Amazon product ASIN B0742LV4JW.

That's just one way to do it. Using some of those terms to search here will land you on some really interesting and creative things other folks have done.
 
It isn't—it's a pretty standard AGM. Lower self discharge, low/no maintenance. More expensive than a standard lead-acid battery.

For the wiring—I ran a fused 10GA to the back. It's connected to a Blue Sea fusebox (ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover - Blue Sea Systems), and from there to another Blue Sea panel (Water-Resistant Accessory Panel - Circuit Breaker, 12V Socket, Dual USB Charger, Mini Voltmeter - Blue Sea Systems). I like being able to see the aux battery voltage at a glance, and the fridge plugs in there as well.

The fusebox also handles 12V chargers/outlets, the fridge, the ham radio, and...probably a couple of other low-range things.

ARB makes a another way to cheat: Amazon product ASIN B0742LV4JW.

That's just one way to do it. Using some of those terms to search here will land you on some really interesting and creative things other folks have done.

Thank-you!
 
It isn't—it's a pretty standard AGM. Lower self discharge, low/no maintenance. More expensive than a standard lead-acid battery.

For the wiring—I ran a fused 10GA to the back. It's connected to a Blue Sea fusebox (ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover - Blue Sea Systems), and from there to another Blue Sea panel (Water-Resistant Accessory Panel - Circuit Breaker, 12V Socket, Dual USB Charger, Mini Voltmeter - Blue Sea Systems). I like being able to see the aux battery voltage at a glance, and the fridge plugs in there as well.

The fusebox also handles 12V chargers/outlets, the fridge, the ham radio, and...probably a couple of other low-range things.

ARB makes a another way to cheat: Amazon product ASIN B0742LV4JW.

That's just one way to do it. Using some of those terms to search here will land you on some really interesting and creative things other folks have done.


so do you have a Blue Sea fuse panel in the front and another in the rear?
what size of fuse is you 10GA rear feed wire on?

thx
 
so do you have a Blue Sea fuse panel in the front and another in the rear?
what size of fuse is you 10GA rear feed wire on?

thx

Just the one in the rear that handles loads for devices inside the cab.

The fuse...you know, I can't quite remember. It's sized somewhere around the max of all the loads at once, but I'll check it a little later this afternoon. I'm thinking it's 25A because the loads inside aren't all that high.

For things like aux lights, driving lights, and stuff that's bolted outside, I used a relay box that came with all the switches, etc. I wanted to keep all the high amperage stuff outside the cab. I used this relay box from Rough Country: MLC-6 Multiple Light Controller (Universal). It's a piece of junk in the kindest terms, and I wouldn't do it again. I'll be replacing it sometime this year when I sort out something better.
 
Just the one in the rear that handles loads for devices inside the cab.

The fuse...you know, I can't quite remember. It's sized somewhere around the max of all the loads at once, but I'll check it a little later this afternoon. I'm thinking it's 25A because the loads inside aren't all that high.

For things like aux lights, driving lights, and stuff that's bolted outside, I used a relay box that came with all the switches, etc. I wanted to keep all the high amperage stuff outside the cab. I used this relay box from Rough Country: MLC-6 Multiple Light Controller (Universal). It's a piece of junk in the kindest terms, and I wouldn't do it again. I'll be replacing it sometime this year when I sort out something better.

do you have your eye on a particular replacement?
 
Right now it's mostly trying to figure out if I want to go with something solid state or not (Switch-Pros or similar). I do for sure, but given the current state of national affairs...I'm probably going to hold on the replacement until we're all in the clear, or the RC unit just pisses me off that much more. Another member here installed a Trigger 4 that's loads cheaper (Trigger 4 Plus Solid State Bluetooth Relay Switching System | Morris 4x4), but I haven't really looked into that too much, either. Otherwise a standard Bussman block would be fine (DIY: DIY Bussmann RTMR Fuse Block, Part 1 – Introduction | Bodenzord, but they're available for sale also.)

The RC unit is mostly OK, when it works. But it has some overload protection built in that's a little too strong. If I'm running the front spot lights, nothing else works. Or the other accessories do work, then don't, then the RC unit shuts off completely for an unknown/different amount of time. I might just be asking too much of it.

It also won't function until it sees higher voltage from the alternator (engine is on). Which is its own form of protection, I guess. But combined with the National Luna controller that waits 5 mins to split voltage between the batteries...usually means I have to wait 5 minutes to use anything, or jump back in the cab to override. I'm thinking some of its problems are unique to me or my expectations.

Losing my spotlights halfway down the Flint Trail at Canyonlands (at 10PM!)—that was the final straw.
 
hey thanks for the links..! that helps a lot!
when I get a minute, I'm going to browse Ebay and see if anyone is building these assemblies
I just ordered the National Luna controller this morning...🤞
 
I ran a 4 ga wire from my Group 31 to a Bussman breaker in the engine bay, then ran the 4 ga to the rear of the truck. From there it powers my Puma compressor and Blue sea fuse panel. My solar charge controller is wired to the same power posts to charge the battery. Here's an ugly electrical control box. Needs to be re-sized and cleaned up. Just waiting to finish a drawer project.

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thanks
I wish I understood this stuff...
clearly this is the part of the build that will most challenge me.
Thanks for all the info. I'm absorbing it and trying to grab the basics..
Looking forward to putting it together
 
I ran a 4 ga wire from my Group 31 to a Bussman breaker in the engine bay, then ran the 4 ga to the rear of the truck. From there it powers my Puma compressor and Blue sea fuse panel. My solar charge controller is wired to the same power posts to charge the battery. Here's an ugly electrical control box. Needs to be re-sized and cleaned up. Just waiting to finish a drawer project.

View attachment 2298819

I dig this. I'm always afraid that I'll have to redo the wiring if I increase the amount of crap I plug in. Go to a higher gauge like 4 and never have to do it twice.
 
1 switch per circuit/relay, correct?
as in I cant run multiple lights with individual switches thru one fuse/relay..?
 
I got the winch installed in the bumper this evening... Had to rotate the clutch end which should have been easy but took me 3 tries to get it right. The instructions are partially from Comeup and partially from ARB and I found the combination quite inadequate. Also, SOR did not send the correct bolts so I've got to replace the ones that go thru the fairlead.

Can someone tell me what the small white wire is for? (like I said, instructions are lacking)

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1 switch per circuit/relay, correct?
as in I cant run multiple lights with individual switches thru one fuse/relay..?

Not necessarily. Usually it's one switch for the spotlights, one switch for a pair (or 3) camp lights down the side of a roof rack, etc.
 
Not necessarily. Usually it's one switch for the spotlights, one switch for a pair (or 3) camp lights down the side of a roof rack, etc.
Yeah I got that.. Thanks.
I should clarify the question... One relay can not serve multiple switches. Each relay is dedicated to one switch.. Correct?
I was talking to @RocketCityCrzrs and if I understood him correctly, this is true.
A fuse can serve multiple accessories but relays cannot unless that group of accessories is switched on/off together...

The small white wire coming out of the winch control box... Where does it connect to?

Thanks
 
S P A C E R S 😉

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Also been gathering parts, pieces, tools, and bits of information for my dual battery and auxiliary electrical system... I'm about to tackle all of that which looks daunting but I'm looking forward to the education.

My bumpers and winch are pretty much ready to install but I'm gonna drive her like this for a week or 4..

😎
 

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