1HDT ticking - getting worse

[eleblanc]

Could be a leaking manifold gasket. Mine was ticking and i had lost 1 manifold bolt and 2 were loose.

 

[Eric Winkworth]

That's not a filter, that's a strainer!

x3!!!!!!

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Oh my! This is the first time I've heard that 10w30 is what should be run in the 1HD-T. Where is that info from (not trying to argue or question, I just like to know I've got the facts straight before making a change)?

The sticker that's on the valve cover should say that, or perhaps the oil fill cap, or the air cleaner... it's there somewhere. The 12HT also uses 10W30 and seems to like it best.

Technically speaking, you can run any of the recommended weights, but 10W30 is what's suggested. The ambient temp range for 10W30 is from -18C to 38C. 10W40 goes from -18C to infinity (FSM LU-5).

The one note is to never use anything lighter than 5W30 above 0C on turbo engines (FSM LU-5).

Heavier oils are good for warmer temps, but you may feel some performance benefit to the recommended oils.


~John

 

[finderscuba]

That's not a filter, that's a strainer!

$600 for a new air cleaner assembly!!! I did mention that the PO put the K&N in. The old air cleaner assembly is gone. In my experience with K&Ns, intake noise is much louder. This is likely why my truck is so loud at high rpms.

I have too many other things to replace before the air filter - it's way down on the list. Whatever the replacement, it will have to be a cone-type that I can install without the stock air cleaner.

 

[Adam B]

Turns out my very similar noise is just an exhaust leak at the manifold. I swore that wasn't the problem but I was wrong. Remove the heat shields and look for any signs of soot.

Failing that, I'd suggest trying to determine the ticking speed relative to engine speed. Example, if you're at 1200rpm are you getting 10 ticks per second or 20? Remember that the crank rotates twice for every one rotation of the cam shaft. This might help narrow it down.

 

[LanceCruiser]

I just went to see Raj at Fred Holmes Fuel Injection, because my idle was still varying. He went through the system, removed the fuel filter to check the seals and re-assembled it to make sure there was no leaks. When he went to remove my filler cap, he noticed it had a lot of pressure built up in the tank. He thought it might be the filler cap (mine is a steel twist on cap), and it wasn't letting the tank vent. He blew the lines into the tank to check for any blockage at the filler cap, and blew the lines through the tank to check for fuel flow through the lines. I drove around without the filler cap off, and that made quite a difference, it quieted the pump down, and seemed to quiet the injectors too. He called ATEB to order me a new filler cap, when I went to ATEB to get it, they found that I had an older design fuel tank. My filler cap didn't come with a breather built in, the breather was in the neck of the fuel tank. John at ATEB found the breather hose in the cross member, and found bits of dirt and sand in it. He blew out the line, which sounded pluged, but what ever it was came loose. He advised to get some more line and run it higher, and maybe into the quarter panel where the rear window side vents are, so it's not collecting dirt in the cross member. I would have to have it covered, since water can get inside the vents, when I hit a puddle, and water pushes up through them, or run it a bit higher than the vents. I must have plugged it up when I was puddle diving, and then pressure washing the cross member out. My truck is running a lot quieter now. The guys at ATEB said it was rare that my truck's fuel tank was an old design, because most of the other HDJ81 they work on have the plastic screw type filler cap, with a built in breather.

 

[Greg_B]

Good links Cancruiser!
Everyone should remember the issue of JDM spec oils vs. non-JDM and the affect on OEM/JDM 1HDT bearing shells of using non-JDM oils?

I dunno about this one any more....And I'll say it again. If this was the case then "none" of the 1HD-T's or HZ's that have come over to Canada from Japan and have lived their life on JDM oils would show any problems. They are (very rare on HZ, and usually only when turbocharged). Which is way it is standard course to recommend immediately swapping out the OEM bearings and check condition if there is no engine maintenance history.

Not saying JDM spec oils have done nothing...as I aint no oil engineer. However, real world experience does not support the above assumption imo.

Isn't Simon from TLC Import in Winnipeg? He should have the SST Shim tool, and a supply of shims on hand. Get'm done. If they have not been adjusted...the clearances have likely tightened up on some. As John says...makes a difference.

Lots of good data, ideas and feedback on this thread.

gb

 

[finderscuba]

I just went to see Raj at Fred Holmes Fuel Injection, because my idle was still varying. He went through the system, removed the fuel filter to check the seals and re-assembled it to make sure there was no leaks. When he went to remove my filler cap, he noticed it had a lot of pressure built up in the tank. He thought it might be the filler cap (mine is a steel twist on cap), and it wasn't letting the tank vent. He blew the lines into the tank to check for any blockage at the filler cap, and blew the lines through the tank to check for fuel flow through the lines. I drove around without the filler cap off, and that made quite a difference, it quieted the pump down, and seemed to quiet the injectors too. He called ATEB to order me a new filler cap, when I went to ATEB to get it, they found that I had an older design fuel tank. My filler cap didn't come with a breather built in, the breather was in the neck of the fuel tank. John at ATEB found the breather hose in the cross member, and found bits of dirt and sand in it. He blew out the line, which sounded pluged, but what ever it was came loose. He advised to get some more line and run it higher, and maybe into the quarter panel where the rear window side vents are, so it's not collecting dirt in the cross member. I would have to have it covered, since water can get inside the vents, when I hit a puddle, and water pushes up through them, or run it a bit higher than the vents. I must have plugged it up when I was puddle diving, and then pressure washing the cross member out. My truck is running a lot quieter now. The guys at ATEB said it was rare that my truck's fuel tank was an old design, because most of the other HDJ81 they work on have the plastic screw type filler cap, with a built in breather.

Mine also has a metal filler cap. I've never noticed any air rush when removing the cap. Maybe I'll try driving around without the cap to see if there is any difference whatsoever.

I would imagine that I'll have to remove the rear seats again to get at the top of the fuel tank. Or can the breather tube be accessed from underneath the truck?

 

[finderscuba]

I dunno about this one any more....And I'll say it again. If this was the case then "none" of the 1HD-T's or HZ's that have come over to Canada from Japan and have lived their life on JDM oils would show any problems. They are (very rare on HZ, and usually only when turbocharged). Which is way it is standard course to recommend immediately swapping out the OEM bearings and check condition if there is no engine maintenance history.

Not saying JDM spec oils have done nothing...as I aint no oil engineer. However, real world experience does not support the above assumption imo.

Isn't Simon from TLC Import in Winnipeg? He should have the SST Shim tool, and a supply of shims on hand. Get'm done. If they have not been adjusted...the clearances have likely tightened up on some. As John says...makes a difference.

Lots of good data, ideas and feedback on this thread.

gb

When I asked Simon about valve shims, he said he did not have any.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Everyone should remember the issue of JDM spec oils vs. non-JDM and the affect on OEM/JDM 1HDT bearing shells of using non-JDM oils?

I have to agree with Greg, the JDM vs. domestic engine oil is not the issue, it was a bad bearing material application. In some markets the cranks and bearings were done under warranty (some proactive, some not).

If it was a JDM enigne oil vs. other engine oils, then we would not be seeing them arriving here with bad bearings.

~John

 

[LanceCruiser]

You can reach the breather hose from underneath, it's lodged in the crossmember that are over the rear axel. If your not experiencing any pressurization, then that might not be the problem. But it would be worth raising it up from underneath, when weather permits, or before you go puddle jumping

 

[KiwiPete]

My 1991 HDJ80 has just started this tick after the clutch was replaced... I cannot be sure if it was the clutch replacement that caused it but that is when I started to notice it....
Only happens under load between 1800 - 2500 rpm

When I first heard it it was 4 days after clutch replacement and on a flat piece of BT on the way to work I accellerated and tick tick tick.... quite loud too,,, Toyota had it for a day and found that they had not fitted a noise seal to the cab properly. Once they fixed that the noise was very quite but in the last day has gotten louder again.... The seal may have come adrift again... dunno

 

[Rex Cars]

Hi fella's - long time, first time.

I hope you all had a fantastic end of year and that 2011 is better for us all.

I've got a 1991 'Cruiser with the 'bullet-proof' 1HDT donk. It's showing 246,000km (I've put 80,000 on it since purchase) and I have also been chasing a noise in my car very similar to what has been described. Regardless of oils etc, nothing appeared to fix the problem. Had Reco injector pump, new injectors, glow plugs etc. Always serviced.

I suspected Beb's, although I still had very good oil pressure and it did not knock when started cold.

I also suspected the clutch, as I could feel it very slightly through the pedal.

I was told the valve adjustment didn't really change too much & besides, the ticking was inconsistent.

To cut a long story short, I think the actual problem reared it ugly head on a deserted hwy 31st of Dec (sample of my year )

What began as a slight rattle which I could feel more predominantly though the clutch pedal as the day progressed, suddenly turned into a ferocious banging, grinding, wailing noise as I was legging down the hwy).

Clutch was now 1inch from the floor and motor (and wife) was shaking quite a bit. Immediate inspection revealed no oil leak, so it hadn't cocked a leg.

Thankfully I'm not the only guy who needs money, and I managed to track down a tow truck who towed me 150+ kms back home.

Ripped the engine out and down, suspecting Crankshaft issues, and guess what?? It had snapped completely in half HORIZONTALLY between #4 B/E and M/B . I have never heard of this happening on a Toyota. Especially with the km's!

Nobody has answers. Most (including myself) suspect a flaw in the casting.

I've put some pictures on to show you, as most don't believe me.

I truly hope that I am the only guy which has this issue, although it worries me from what I read.

Should also mention the cab noise - all along, it has been quite noisy (engine wise). When the little ones are in the very back seats, they have to talk quite loud for us to hear them. It is (was) probably 50% louder than my diesel 60 series (2H). From what I've seen and understand, this will hopefully shut the thing up. A mate has an identical truck and says that he can hear road noise. I never could...

I'm in the process of doing a complete overhaul and will keep you posted with results.

BTW - I mashed one M/B - all other bearings were in excellent condition. It's got me going...

All the best!

80 Series Cruiser 004.jpg

80 Series Cruiser 010.jpg

 

[crushers]

holy crap, first time i saw this happen. nasty and $$$$$$$$$$$$.


the HDT/HZ/PZ all sound like a gasser with a tick, to be louder than a 12HT should have been a sign of "WTF?" but if you didn't know how one should have sounded then how would you know?

<wicked way to start a new year>

 

[SHREDwagon]

$600 for a new air cleaner assembly!!! I did mention that the PO put the K&N in. The old air cleaner assembly is gone. In my experience with K&Ns, intake noise is much louder. This is likely why my truck is so loud at high rpms.

Had the same K&N/Air raid filter on when I received her. I was able to source a stock used air filter canister assembly for a third of that in Japan. PM me if you're interested in contact info.

p.s. checking the valve clearances is a PM item anyways and it's always cool to look at your cam. Doesn't take long, just need a feeler gauge. Installing the new shims is another story.

 

[Previa Diesel]

Ouch!

Might be a good time to junk the whole ill-concieved (IMO) 1HZ converted to direction injection idea, otherwise known as the 1HDT and get a plain old 1HZ from Ens Industrial or somewhere (mine truck?) and put on a turbo kit like the one I posted about a few years back and be done with the BEB voodoo for ever!

Toyota in their wisdom decided that the bearings didn't need to be any bigger to support the much higher loading from the much faster ingniting direction injection system.

Loads which are obviously very close the limits of the stock bearings. Without the correct high calcium oils (JDM oils), the stock bearings are prone to failure as you obviously know.

So, if you go indirect injection 1HZ with after-market (but factory approved) turbo, you get the best of both worlds.

Then again, a 12HT would be another option if you don't like timing belts & idlers, for example

 

[crushers]

factory approved turbo??

 

[Previa Diesel]

factory approved turbo??

https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/83942-1hz-turbo-system-supplier.html

So they said, and I don't see any reason to doubt it.

 

[Previa Diesel]

I have to agree with Greg, the JDM vs. domestic engine oil is not the issue, it was a bad bearing material application. In some markets the cranks and bearings were done under warranty (some proactive, some not).

If it was a JDM enigne oil vs. other engine oils, then we would not be seeing them arriving here with bad bearings.

~John

Unless of course some of the famously obsessive-compulsive or completely neglectful Japanese owners (rarely in between it seems) didn't use the correct oils there either, ie: servicing done by non-Toyota shops, drive through lube shops etc.

Getting slightly off topic, the sump on the 1HZ and 1HDT is large enough to use a centrifugal oil cleaner such as the Spinner II. Something to be highly recommended in any diesel where the bearings are suspect, and any other diesel of course. The two-stage 90915-30002 filter is a must IMO as well.

I was told by someone credible (cruiser-head) about a 3B engine that was set up with such an oil cleaner. The oil was "honey-coloured" according to the guy who had seen it. Less dirt means less wear, no dirt means practically no wear, with adequate oil pressure.

 

[crushers]

i remember that thread...
did you end up running the system?