1hdt manual boost controller install (2 Viewers)

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Yes turbo needs to be removed, the only reason why I went this route was I needed to remove the turbo anyway to swap in the supra upgrade and on the advise of a few friends eho have used this before. If you put a 22 pound spring in there it will be 22 pounds, or if you put a 15 pound spring that's what you will get. I preloaded the actuator by fighting up the adjustment but under hard acceleration she stops at 15 psi right on the money.

So it's adjustable only by way of changing the spring? If you run a 14.5psi spring, you can't set it for 16psi for example? And I assume it would have to come off to change springs as well?
 
So it's adjustable only by way of changing the spring? If you run a 14.5psi spring, you can't set it for 16psi for example? And I assume it would have to come off to change springs as well?

Yes, no, yes :)

Whatever spring you put in there that will be the minimum boost pressure you will see. You can still hook up a boost controller to increase the boost just like with the stock wastegate. Third yes is a bit of a guess, but it's like an external wastegate where you will need to take apart the wastegate to change out the spring. Not sure if you can do that in place with the one @BCR4619 has posted.
 
Yes, no, yes :)

Whatever spring you put in there that will be the minimum boost pressure you will see. You can still hook up a boost controller to increase the boost just like with the stock wastegate. Third yes is a bit of a guess, but it's like an external wastegate where you will need to take apart the wastegate to change out the spring. Not sure if you can do that in place with the one @BCR4619 has posted.

When I 1st saw it I assumed it was a 2in1 sort of deal, I can't see how this would really be of use with a stock turbo compared to a regular manual boost controller. Maybe if you were running 28psi on an aftermarket unit, a stiffer wastegate spring could help with boost creep, and this allows you to tune that spring easily.
 
I think there is enough room to change the spring on the truck as the hex bolts are all on the cover. I can try and get shots tomorrow.

I just like less things that can go wrong which is also why I went with it, I don't need to change my boost to higher or lower, my next one will have a 22 psi spring for Karters turbo
 
I got this regulator from work. It's good for up to 270 psi for when I wanna really crack this beast open.

But seriously, I want to try this directly in the line between the compressor housing and the waste gate. Trying to get it dialed into 15psi will probably be a long trial and error process.

Any yays or nays? Anyone try to use something like this before?
IMG_20160229_112742.jpg
 
Looks huge.
Maybe you have small hands :D

Apart from finding space to fit it somewhere close to the turbo, I wonder if it's large size and internal volume would make it slow to respond?
 
Maybe you have small hands :D
I've never been accused of smelling like cabbage. You've seen Austin Powers and/or been around Carnie's if you get that.

But yeah, this pressure regulator is a behemoth.

Currently I have removed the Mark II waste gate line that included the T. I've replaced it with the yellow length of hose that went from the T to the old (read: garbage) boost controller.

So I'm back to stock boost. I see 12-13 psi. I'm enjoying the way it drives now, except my EGTs have risen between 75-100 degrees C.

If I do decide to put this pressure regulator in line I can simply cut the very long yellow wastegate line and put the regulator in. Removing it afterward will simply require some kind of double hose barb.
 
No matter the regulator used, the waste gate spring pressure will be rating that controls how much boost it takes to open the flap.

If boost pressure is 15 pounds, you need at least a 15 pound spring to keep the flap closed, no matter what the regulator is set at. That regulator should work if the spring is in range. You can also preload the spring to get more boost. Space the waste gate actuator away from the mount with shims to preload it.
 
I have also tried that exact bleed valve boost controller pictured in the original post. Complete garbage!! Here is a the best explanation I have seen of how the different types of boost controllers work and why you shouldnt waste your money on the needle valve style
 
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@Malahki Thanks that clears things up quite a bit. I believe I won't be messing with this other regulator now. It does make me want to get back to one of Karter's turbos and swap in a different waste gate spring as was recommended earlier/elsewhere. If only I was still making oil money....
 
This came yesterday with a 22pound spring

View attachment 1232553

That is the same I have with the same spring.

Check it carefully before you install it though...Mine was ordered with the 22 pound spring, but unknown to me, the wrong spring was installed. They used a 10 pound spring and I could not figure why I low boost.

The springs are color coded. I would take the cover off, see what color it is, then call Kinugawa to confirm. Do it once and be done.

Other than the spring, the unit works great.
 
That is the same I have with the same spring.

Check it carefully before you install it though...Mine was ordered with the 22 pound spring, but unknown to me, the wrong spring was installed. They used a 10 pound spring and I could not figure why I low boost.

The springs are color coded. I would take the cover off, see what color it is, then call Kinugawa to confirm. Do it once and be done.

Other than the spring, the unit works great.
Yup I have one currently in my truck and works like a charm. The 22pound spring came in a seperate bag so I need to change it. But I would have thought it would have come with it installed.
 
Got my Dawes MBC installed last night, this thread really helped, so thanks @danakittilsen!
 
Yes turbo needs to be removed, the only reason why I went this route was I needed to remove the turbo anyway to swap in the supra upgrade and on the advise of a few friends eho have used this before. If you put a 22 pound spring in there it will be 22 pounds, or if you put a 15 pound spring that's what you will get. I preloaded the actuator by fighting up the adjustment but under hard acceleration she stops at 15 psi right on the money.

Do you have a link or info on the "Supra Upgrade" Thanks!
 
So I've recently fiddled with the fueling on my 1hdt. Power is better, little puff of black smoke on startup and under load. Egt's are still good.
Followed LCOOL mod by turning star wheel in injection pump three clicks, top screw half turn in, and main fuel screw in approx a quarter turn.
Problem is, now my boost is maxing out at 8psi, whereas before it would max out at 12, stock. Would the Kinugawa 15lb spring get me back up closer to where I want to be? Is there any other explanation as to why my boost numbers changed? Just figured maybe pumping more fuel changed everything so now I need to up boost. Want to maintain reliability, not look to do fuel pin mod or any boost over 16psi. Any insight would be appreciated
 
So basically you tight up the boost compensator spring making it ( the diaphragm ) more stiff therefore less prone to move under boost, which equal to less pin travel, less fuel pin travel ..
 

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