1hdt Kinugawa TD05-18G, can't reach 20psi (1 Viewer)

[nz1HDThdj81]

ill have to do some testing and playing around with fuel but went with the Red spring in mine (1.7Bar)

Another thing to note is that the drain tube is kinda small that comes with the kit so you will have to adapt it to 24mm/1" barb so it fits snug around the factory drain rubber tube.

you will need a oil return flange for td05/td06 and a

View attachment 3315834​

Hose Barb Fitting Coupler/Connector 1" Male Barb to 1/2" NPT Pipe Male Thread

View attachment 3315835


also there a difference in the housings 7cm vs 8cm the 8cm one will not bolt in directly to the support bracket but the 7cm will bolt right in.
im not sure how structual sound it is to use without the bracket not sure where the stress points will be but i plan to make a extended L-bracket to bolt to the factor mount.

the turbo i went with is:

Kinugawa Turbo 3" TD06SL2-18G 8cm​

6+6 Billet wheel
9 Blades STS

you can compare here:

i've circled the differences
View attachment 3315833

Here is a picture of the 17020 installed on 1hd-t (not my photo)
View attachment 3315831

I will also add that the wastegate flange fouls on the water pipe running from the water pump to the rear of the block. I loosened the flange for this and ground back the excessive flange for the wastegate if I reefer correctly. It's been like this for years now without any issue, same with the return pipe. I adapted it to the factory one with what I had on hand.

 

[veiloctane]

I will also add that the wastegate flange fouls on the water pipe running from the water pump to the rear of the block. I loosened the flange for this and ground back the excessive flange for the wastegate if I reefer correctly. It's been like this for years now without any issue, same with the return pipe. I adapted it to the factory one with what I had on hand.

Hey thanks for the info. I pickup some 3/8 an 90 degree couplers so I can move the hose out of the way so it won’t get close to the water pipes.

 

[nz1HDThdj81]

Hey thanks for the info. I pickup some 3/8 an 90 degree couplers so I can move the hose out of the way so it won’t get close to the water pipes.

View attachment 3315854

this is the pipe I was talking about when I mentioned the wastegate is too large to clear this pipe in circumference so a mangled the flange of the wastegate to hug the pipe with a die grinder. Ugly but worked a treat. This 3/8 an water pipe fittings and 90d elbows sounds a wee bit small for this, it would be more like 3/4. I had a picture of what I'd done some where around. When I get a chance I'll try and dig it up.

 

[veiloctane]

this is the pipe I was talking about when I mentioned the wastegate is too large to clear this pipe in circumference so a mangled the flange of the wastegate to hug the pipe with a die grinder. Ugly but worked a treat. This 3/8 an water pipe fittings and 90d elbows sounds a wee bit small for this, it would be more like 3/4. I had a picture of what I'd done some where around. When I get a chance I'll try and dig it up.

View attachment 3315865

Really? I think I can clock the turbo and move the wastegate to clear the heater pipe on the motor. I’ll see when I get there.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Really? I think I can clock the turbo and move the wastegate to clear the heater pipe on the motor. I’ll see when I get there.

You'll be limited in how much clocking you can do to position the wastegate. Position of the compressor and exhaust housings is dictated by your plumbing.

You might be able to modify wastegate mounting bracket.
When I installed a hybrid 1hdt/supra turbo I had to alter the wastegate bracket, and repositioning was limited by needing the linkage to have a fairly straight shot from the actuator to the wastegate arm.

 

[nz1HDThdj81]

You'll be limited in how much clocking you can do to position the wastegate. Position of the compressor and exhaust housings is dictated by your plumbing.

You might be able to modify wastegate mounting bracket.
When I installed a hybrid 1hdt/supra turbo I had to alter the wastegate bracket, and repositioning was limited by needing the linkage to have a fairly straight shot from the actuator

Really? I think I can clock the turbo and move the wastegate to clear the heater pipe on the motor. I’ll see when I get there.

If I was going to do it again. I think it's a good idea to cut the water pipe prior to turbo allowing enough room to slide a 90d rubber elbow or hose over swage the end and Fit a rubber hose or similar to avoid the issue all together. Unless you go topmount turbo manifold, but that changes all your pipe runs.

 

[veiloctane]

If I was going to do it again. I think it's a good idea to cut the water pipe prior to turbo allowing enough room to slide a 90d rubber elbow or hose over swage the end and Fit a rubber hose or similar to avoid the issue all together. Unless you go topmount turbo manifold, but that changes all your pipe runs.

I was able to clock the turbo to give me 1/4” of space between the cooler pipe. No issues with the wastegate coming into contact with the coolant pipe. Perhaps the bracket is different between the TD06SL2-18G and the TD05-18G

 

[veiloctane]

I can only get 16 psi,

I have the red spring installed I have checked for boost leaks and found a leak at the injection pump on the boost cap.

no more leaks but I still cannot make more than 16psi.

it's going to be a pain to install another spring kind of tight to get to the wastegate.

would more fuel help make more boost?

check with boost leak tester wastegate starts to move around 20psi

if I need to put another spring so be it as I do have the whole spring set just wondering if I'm missing anything. I've sprayed soapy water everywhere tryigmt o find leaks but all i could find was on the injection pump

 

[nz1HDThdj81]

I can only get 16 psi,

I have the red spring installed I have checked for boost leaks and found a leak at the injection pump on the boost cap.

no more leaks but I still cannot make more than 16psi.

it's going to be a pain to install another spring kind of tight to get to the wastegate.

would more fuel help make more boost?

check with boost leak tester wastegate starts to move around 20psi

if I need to put another spring so be it as I do have the whole spring set just wondering if I'm missing anything. I've sprayed soapy water everywhere tryigmt o find leaks but all i could find was on the injection pump

One thing to do if your not surr about boost leaks is connect an air compressor to the inlet of the turbo and pressurize upto approximately 2 bar, you will get a small amount leak through the piston rings which is normal but any other leak will be very noticeable. Next after this check your fuel setting while using your egt. Making sure not to go too high on the setpoint or you will damage your pistons.

 

[veiloctane]

One thing to do if your not surr about boost leaks is connect an air compressor to the inlet of the turbo and pressurize upto approximately 2 bar, you will get a small amount leak through the piston rings which is normal but any other leak will be very noticeable. Next after this check your fuel setting while using your egt. Making sure not to go too high on the setpoint or you will damage your pistons.

Thanks I’ve done that egts are 900F going up steep hills at hiway speeds. Afr 22:1

Maybe I have to wire the wastegate shut.

 

[nz1HDThdj81]

Thanks I’ve done that egts are 900 going up steep hills at hiway speeds. Afr 22:1

Maybe I have to wire the wastegate shut.

Is that on the inlet or outlet of turbo

 

[veiloctane]

EGT measured on the manifold before turbo

 

[nz1HDThdj81]

EGT measured on the manifold before turbo

Yeah that's too hot for me, im sitting at approximately 600 what's your boost at 2000rpm.

 

[mudgudgeon]

would more fuel help make more boost?

Yes, to a point.
More fuel means more heat, more expanding gases, more energy to drive the turbine.
It also means higher EGTs.

Maybe I have to wire the wastegate shut.

BTDT with waste gate wired shut, peak boost becomes totally dependent on fueling

900F

= 480⁰C
This is extremely conservative.
750⁰C pre-turbo is widely considered safe. Personally I think 750⁰C is conservative.

 

[nz1HDThdj81]

I remember I had to keep adding fuel screw to let the turbo spool, otherwise I never got to 21psi, egts however got to 600c then held as the psi kept raising. I got to 21 psi and left it there. Has been there for 4 years so far without touching it.

I guess with more pressure the air/fuel ratio is higher so there is less fuel for the same volume until a point at which the turbo reaches the end of the performance curve or physical hardware in the engine limits flow. 22 afr sounds fairly rich but obviously not smoking out the exhaust.

What's the power like? Noticeable?

 

[nz1HDThdj81]

Yes, to a point.
More fuel means more heat, more expanding gases, more energy to drive the turbine.
It also means higher EGTs.


BTDT with waste gate wired shut, peak boost becomes totally dependent on fueling


= 480⁰C
This is extremely conservative.
750⁰C pre-turbo is widely considered safe. Personally I think 750⁰C is conservative.

My bad on this I read 900c earlier, my consensus matches this answer.

 

[veiloctane]

Yes, to a point.
More fuel means more heat, more expanding gases, more energy to drive the turbine.
It also means higher EGTs.


BTDT with waste gate wired shut, peak boost becomes totally dependent on fueling


= 480⁰C
This is extremely conservative.
750⁰C pre-turbo is widely considered safe. Personally I think 750⁰C is conservative.

thanks for this info... im going to try and change the waste gate spring maybe to the highest one rose red and see what that does

 

[AussieHJCruza]

I remember I had to keep adding fuel screw to let the turbo spool, otherwise I never got to 21psi, egts however got to 600c then held as the psi kept raising. I got to 21 psi and left it there. Has been there for 4 years so far without touching it.

I guess with more pressure the air/fuel ratio is higher so there is less fuel for the same volume until a point at which the turbo reaches the end of the performance curve or physical hardware in the engine limits flow. 22 afr sounds fairly rich but obviously not smoking out the exhaust.

What's the power like? Noticeable?

22:1 AFR is perfect if not slightly lean (which doesn't matter per se in a diesel obviously.)
A power tune is ~18:1 which, with the correct timing and good injectors, will be pretty clean visibly, maybe a bit of haze but not heavy smoke.

You'd expect to start to see smoke at ~16:1

If someone wants a power tune, we'd shoot for 17-18:1. If someone tows with their truck we'd be looking for 17-18:1 off boost and 21:1 on boost.

 

[mudgudgeon]

22:1 AFR is perfect if not slightly lean (which doesn't matter per se in a diesel obviously.)
A power tune is ~18:1 which, with the correct timing and good injectors, will be pretty clean visibly, maybe a bit of haze but not heavy smoke.

You'd expect to start to see smoke at ~16:1

If someone wants a power tune, we'd shoot for 17-18:1. If someone tows with their truck we'd be looking for 17-18:1 off boost and 21:1 on boost.

So 17-18 gets you spooled up and on boost?
As boost builds, that leans out coz you're pushing more air in

 

[veiloctane]

22:1 AFR is perfect if not slightly lean (which doesn't matter per se in a diesel obviously.)
A power tune is ~18:1 which, with the correct timing and good injectors, will be pretty clean visibly, maybe a bit of haze but not heavy smoke.

You'd expect to start to see smoke at ~16:1

If someone wants a power tune, we'd shoot for 17-18:1. If someone tows with their truck we'd be looking for 17-18:1 off boost and 21:1 on boost.

thanks for this info i guess i have to give it a bit more fuel maybe loosen up the spring and crank up the fuel screw


i have a bit of smoke when on the pedle but it goes away once i have boost after 10psi

so hopefully more fuel will help me get more boost too