1HDFT & 1HDFTE observations-discussion (25 Viewers)

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So to convert an FTE to an FT requires not only an injection pump specific to the FT but also an NLA gear. Perhaps the pump is still available new, Toyota does show the auto trans FT pump part number is still live in the system at over $6k for the pump. The manual trans FT pump is NLA, the auto is likely too but I have never tried to order one. The FT pump may also still be available new from Denso but I doubt that. Sourcing a used FT pump is not impossible but they are not plentiful due to only being manufactured for two years nearly 30yrs ago. Meanwhile you can get a new FTE pump from Denso for about $4k.
Appreciate you sharing your experience.

Do you know what the difference is between manual and automatic FT IPs?
 
@SteelHunterFJ80 to respond to your post over in the for sale thread, here vs there.

I have already explained in various posts why I think the FTE is a superior engine. As far as converting and FTE to an FT, there are a number of problems with that.

First the IP shaft is a smaller diameter on the FT than on an FTE. That means the rear timing case that the oil pump is in and that the IP bolts to has a different size hole for the IP. The gear due to IP shaft size does not interchange either on FT vs FTE, it is specific to the FT. The case and seal are still available but the gear is not.

So to convert an FTE to an FT requires not only an injection pump specific to the FT but also an NLA gear. Perhaps the pump is still available new, Toyota does show the auto trans FT pump part number is still live in the system at over $6k for the pump. The manual trans FT pump is NLA, the auto is likely too but I have never tried to order one. The FT pump may also still be available new from Denso but I doubt that. Sourcing a used FT pump is not impossible but they are not plentiful due to only being manufactured for two years nearly 30yrs ago. Meanwhile you can get a new FTE pump from Denso for about $4k.

On top of this the FTE never came with a pan that works well in an 80-series. Both the HDJ100 and HDJ79 oil pan have clearance issues compared to the 80-series FT pan. The 80 pan is still available but the oil pickup is not and is another specific part to the FT. The oil dip stick tube on the FT is also NLA and is another specific to 80’s and the FT. You can work around these issues but it requires fabrication of FTE parts to match the FT parts. Or having the correct original FT used parts.

I don’t think the seller in the thread you tagged me in knows any of this. It’s not a “bolt on the pump” and go job. If he doesn’t know these things how could he know what he is selling?

As far as wiring up an FTE, yes that is a cost in doing an FTE swap. As is buying an ECU and spill driver. There are no parts currently NLA for the FTE unlike the FT.

Lastly in my opinion making an FTE an FT is going backwards. Like putting a carb on a fuel injected gas engine.

Cheers

Hi SNLC,

Thanks for the all the information. I wasn't thinking of converting a FTE to a Mechanical but all your information does help in a lot of other ways. I still would like to do a more complete build up on either a FTE or FT someday. I had Torfab do a 1HDFT swap for me and was debating whether or not to get another FT or go one step further and do a FTE. The biggest challenge in my opinion is the wiring for the 1HDFTE. Thats why I was asking you how much that adds to a typical swap so I could price that in. I know you have the wiring down to an art so I figured if I did the upgrade to a 1HDFTE, I'd send the truck to you.

I go back and forth on the 1HDFT vs swapping for a 1HDFTE....I have stock spare injectors and pump; all the info you and @OGBeno provide on parts availabity is very helpful. I did do a few things to my engine before the swap: Ceramic pistons, billet conrods, ARP Head Studs etc. I am running a 12 mm pump and +30 injectors and a GTurbo Red Wheel. Have yet to dyno but I should be in the 300 HP area. Would love to get to 400 HP and thats why I asked if you had a thread. I did find a lot of the information I was looking for about your 1HDFT on page 7 of this thread so thank you. Who does your ceramic coatings, they look great!

Thanks
 
Hi SNLC,

Thanks for the all the information. I wasn't thinking of converting a FTE to a Mechanical but all your information does help in a lot of other ways. I still would like to do a more complete build up on either a FTE or FT someday. I had Torfab do a 1HDFT swap for me and was debating whether or not to get another FT or go one step further and do a FTE. The biggest challenge in my opinion is the wiring for the 1HDFTE. Thats why I was asking you how much that adds to a typical swap so I could price that in. I know you have the wiring down to an art so I figured if I did the upgrade to a 1HDFTE, I'd send the truck to you.

I go back and forth on the 1HDFT vs swapping for a 1HDFTE....I have stock spare injectors and pump; all the info you and @OGBeno provide on parts availabity is very helpful. I did do a few things to my engine before the swap: Ceramic pistons, billet conrods, ARP Head Studs etc. I am running a 12 mm pump and +30 injectors and a GTurbo Red Wheel. Have yet to dyno but I should be in the 300 HP area. Would love to get to 400 HP and thats why I asked if you had a thread. I did find a lot of the information I was looking for about your 1HDFT on page 7 of this thread so thank you. Who does your ceramic coatings, they look great!

Thanks


On the FT you will need to go to +70 and 40psi to get past 350. It may be tricky to get the pump tuned just right for that, not sure as I haven’t tried yet.

The FTE is superior in that you don’t need to touch the pump to push it to 400. +70, 40+psi and a chip with the right tune and you will get close for sure.

Surprised you want more than 300hp. All the ones we have built that are running 30psi are real impressive from 20-30psi.

Cheers
 
Anyone got the stock fuelling (cc/1000 shots etc) numbers for the 1HD-FT or FTE?
 
Anyone got the stock fuelling (cc/1000 shots etc) numbers for the 1HD-FT or FTE?

It’s listed in my FT FSM iirc, I would have to check my FTE manual.

Cheers
 
BeB on the FT in the shop for upgrades. All are no worries except for #1 which is chowed. The groove in the crank is concerning.

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😐

Cheers

IMG_2719.jpeg
 
Hmmmm…..correct me if I am wrong but I thought the BEB issue was only with the 1-HDT engine? Should FT owners be checking them or at least be doing oil analysis?
Given the pattern of scoring vs the oil hole on the crank and the location at #1, this was probably some physical material that got into the oil galleys past the filter. The BEB problem you're referring to on the 1HDT engines is different, it's when the bearings themselves start to prematurely degrade. This was physical damage by foreign materials.
 
Hmmmm…..correct me if I am wrong but I thought the BEB issue was only with the 1-HDT engine? Should FT owners be checking them or at least be doing oil analysis?

It’s not really a problem on FTs, look at the rest of the bearings which have 300,000kms on them. As zero just said, it was a chunk of something that did this damage.

Cheers
 
The decision was made today to pull the crank. Hopefully we can machine it to be fine with oversized bearings. If they are to deep new crank I suppose. 😐

Cheers
 
Probably missed it but where do you send your pumps? I'm assuming somewhere in AUS unfortunately.

Yes this one went to HD Automotive in Australia.

Cheers
 
Checking bores, all are within spec to use standard rings.

IMG_2746.jpeg


Pistons out

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#6 is the only one with a bit of a groove in the bore

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A ring busted upon removal on #5, #5 had a little lower compression.

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Still going through it.

Cheers
 
The #1 crank journal and bearing also shows some damage/wear from debris.

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We should be able to simply machine the crank and upsize its bearings but the machine shop will have to determine that. The owner is considering options and I will get with the machine shop on Monday.

Cheers
 
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Everything checked and cleaned up today. Other than issues I mentioned everything is good and within specs. The bottom end does show wear but it is fairly even wear.

Cheers
 

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