You might as well change the belt and tensioner out as its a 5 year or 100k km items.
Change the water pump while your there. Order it out of the states to save you some money.
Yep, the water pump, timing belt and idler were changed about a year ago, and 25,000km. They're going back in.
Checked the piston protrusion and am glad I went for the #5 gasket. I was right at the end of the range for a #3, so I would have ordered a #5 based on the numbers.
You can change the oil line with the turbo in place. The water lines you might be able to get at with it in there too. Pulling the turbo is not too tough as long as you take the manifold with it. Just gotta get the intake cross over out of the way, and the exhaust pipe.
Yes, turbo oil/water lines can be removed with the turbo and exhaust manifold still in place. They're both very easy.
Lie on the ground and shine a light up to see the nuts that hold the oil line on. A long extension on your ratchet makes it easy.
The water lines are easy too. I just keep a pair of RTV sealant tapered nozzles close by and I plug the 2 hoses as I pull them off and I hardly lose any coolant there. If you're replacing the hoses just be ready and do it quickly. You won't spill much.
I was actually wondering about it yesterday as I was greasing the u-joints but didn't look too much into the water lines, something to do this week anyway.
Anywho back to the Head gasket, sorry about the jack!
Interestingly, a few weeks ago at 400,000 kms my HDT was consuming coolant, so took the head off with the intent to just replace the gasket. It's always had really good power and was going to do an overhaul when it died.
Found a bit of piston play and decided to do a complete overhaul. The BEB's had never been done so expected the worse. Turns out they were in great shape, as were the mains. The machine shop even said that the valves were in good shape. Ended up replacing everything just because.
Started to regret diving into a $7500 overhaul, but after driving the "new" engine I'm all smiles! I thought it had good power before...
As mentioned earlier it looked like some dust had gotten past the air filter. I'll be sealing everything up when it goes back together. I'm thinking a thin skim of silicone on all the sealing surfaces? Any suggestions???
The turbo had some small marks on the impeller. Nothing too major, but I don't want to continue having stuff go through there!
That Utah dust seems to get its way into everthing and seems worse than the Churn Creek dust. Are you using OEM air cleaners?
I am using a Donaldson 'Topspin' precleaner on top of my snorkle and Toyota OEM air filter (rather than NAPA) and the air intake to the turbo is staying cleaner in extreme dusty conditions.
The Topspin I take off on the highway as it does not pass enough cfm on high boost.
Got it back together and went for a test run last night. Runs well, and seems a bit smoother and quieter. I'll post up some details of the work done, and some observations when I have a few minutes to sit down.
Didn't really take many pictures during the re-assembly. I was more interested in just getting it done!
My satisfaction at having completed this job successfully is huge!
The engine manual lists them as a re-usable part and gives a spec to measure them. Its the width at a certain point where they will stretch. I measured them all and they were well within spec so they were re-used.
The spec shows that new they are 10.80mm - 11.00mm. Minimum thickness 10.50mm. Mine were all 10.78mm to 10.80mm. No point spending an extra $125 when the parts are perfectly fine according to Mr. T
The headbolts are re-useable on these engines as long as they are within spec. Same for the rod bolts, but most people opt to change the rod bolts for the nominal extra cost.
The grade 5 head gasket is always the way to go. I've seen a few 2LTEs wiped out because the installer put back the same number head gasket instead of measuring it and there's a slight tap-tap-tap of the pistons with the valves or the head that slowly takes out the rod bearings.
There is not even close to a significant change in compression with the thickest gasket over the others - so the thickest is really the way to go.
MLS (aka MLM) multi-layer metal headgaskets require a smooth surface on both the block and the head, and the specification for how smooth should be closely adhered to or the sealing material that the gasket is coated with will slowly scrub off (heat cycling) and eventually lead to leaking. This kind of scrubbing is very common on mixed metal engines (iron block, aluminum head) due to the differences in the rates of expansion and contraction between the two metals.
Also, you should pay very close attention to the timing of the injection pump and it should be checked after all the work has been completed. If you are still running an ACSD, then that needs to be deactivated according to the FSM before getting your plunger depth numbers.
Furthermore, the valves should be checked and reset, if there was any valve work done, after about 3,000 to 5,000 Kms as the setting can change quite dramatically. The valves should be checked on an engine that has been allowed to rest for 24 hours with no starting whatsoever (we have found this gives the most reliable results).
As for air filter elements - there are two Wix versions (sold by Napa) and the better one is always the one to run in dusty conditions. Dirt in the intake and compressor wheel wear are the main reason that K&N is the devil - they let in way too much dirt and it will be evident by the amount of dirty/oily residue coating the inside of the intake system.
Great to hear that you now have this unit up and running again!
The headbolts are re-useable on these engines as long as they are within spec. Same for the rod bolts, but most people opt to change the rod bolts for the nominal extra cost.
The grade 5 head gasket is always the way to go. I've seen a few 2LTEs wiped out because the installer put back the same number head gasket instead of measuring it and there's a slight tap-tap-tap of the pistons with the valves or the head that slowly takes out the rod bearings.
There is not even close to a significant change in compression with the thickest gasket over the others - so the thickest is really the way to go.
MLS (aka MLM) multi-layer metal headgaskets require a smooth surface on both the block and the head, and the specification for how smooth should be closely adhered to or the sealing material that the gasket is coated with will slowly scrub off (heat cycling) and eventually lead to leaking. This kind of scrubbing is very common on mixed metal engines (iron block, aluminum head) due to the differences in the rates of expansion and contraction between the two metals.
Also, you should pay very close attention to the timing of the injection pump and it should be checked after all the work has been completed. If you are still running an ACSD, then that needs to be deactivated according to the FSM before getting your plunger depth numbers.
Furthermore, the valves should be checked and reset, if there was any valve work done, after about 3,000 to 5,000 Kms as the setting can change quite dramatically. The valves should be checked on an engine that has been allowed to rest for 24 hours with no starting whatsoever (we have found this gives the most reliable results).
As for air filter elements - there are two Wix versions (sold by Napa) and the better one is always the one to run in dusty conditions.
Dirt in the intake and compressor wheel wear are the main reason that K&N is the devil - they let in way too much dirt and it will be evident by the amount of dirty/oily residue coating the inside of the intake system.
Great to hear that you now have this unit up and running again!
I'm pleased to have opted for the #5 head gasket. The protrusion numbers were at the upper end of the #3 range, so it was the right call without question. I spent quite a bit of time cleaning the top of the block, and at the suggestion of another trusted Toyota mechanic I used a Mopar gasket sealant on the new gasket. I did so only because it came from a very experienced and trusted source.
I am planning to have the injection pump timing checked. This is beyond me, though I would really like to take the time to learn and understand the various adjustments on the injection pump. The ACSD is removed.
I checked all the valve clearances. The valves were removed for the head work, but otherwise untouched (no valve grind required). They were all within spec. One intake was at the tight end, as were two exhaust, but still within spec. I do plan to check clearances again at the next oil change as a precaution. The head was shaved by .007" which allowed the valves to stay, and the seats and valves were all in good shape.
I have been running a Napa Gold filter (I believe it to be made by Wix). I'll check into this a bit further.
I was reviewing a couple of the pictures after putting it back together, and have come to some conclusions about the timing belt and my thoughts that it was off. When I installed it I used the proper notch match-marks, and then compared the paint marks to the way it had been when I took it apart. They were the same. I then counted teeth and found that on the cam pulley the paint mark and the notch were 10 teeth apart. On the lower pulley they are 11 teeth apart. I suspect that when the timing belt was first done (in Japan, before I got it) they botched it, and it would have been with the cam one tooth advanced. That would have resulted in the intake valves opening early and would explain the light contact on the tops of the pistons.
Since I had the pictures from before I took the belt off this time I know that I had it correct before, which was a big relief.
After driving around a bit more today my impressions are that the engine is a little smoother, and power is about the same as previous. Its a little hard to be totally objective because I spent a week driving a different 1HD-T powered cruiser in a similar state of tune, but with the newer electronic transmission. I got used to that truck so it is a little tough to really feel any subtle changes in mine.
I will be getting up to speed on IP adjustments both to make sure everything is set nicely, as well as I'd like to try to reduce the amount of smoke on harder acceleration. Its what I would describe as "moderate", but I'd like less if I can do it without reducing performance.
I also spent some time adjusting a couple of the exhaust hangers to eliminate a pipe/frame rattle. Much better now!!!
I know this is an old thread, but I just checked it out. many times there is reference to the timing belt being off, and the valve/piston overlap being affected. isn't the timing belt on this engine for pump timing, as the cam and crank are timed by gears?
