1HD-FTE and A750 5-speed auto 80-Series Install Writeup (15 Viewers)

[lelandEOD]

Almost two years ago, I got lucky and scored a 1HD-FTE and A750F from a 65,000 mile 2005 HDJ100 rolling frame.
The rolling frame came with all body harnesses, computers, steering column, etc.

I knew this thing had to go into my LX450 but had no idea where to really start.

 

[lelandEOD]

Once it was delivered I gave everything a quick assessment and decided all that was really needed was some general cleanup and a lite refresh.

I also learned that there are several important distinctions between different FTE production years and markets. I didn't understand it at the time but the frame I got was originally from the European market which, coupled with the late production year meant that this thing was fitted with the water cooled EGR, Garrett VNT turbo, intake manifold swirl flaps, soft shut down valve, Mass Airflow Sensor, viscous heater, etc. These changes mean more parts than you would think are specific to this water-cooled EGR version of the FTE. But, more on that later.

And of course... there was the 'elephant in the room'...

What could possibly go wrong!?

 

[lelandEOD]

I pulled the injector lines, intake manifold, and crossover pipe and had everything hot tanked and ultrasonically cleaned. I took the opportunity to replace a lot of rubber hoses, injector seals, gaskets and so forth but this prep work was really superficial because everything was in such great shape. The EGR had definitely done a number on the intake system though. There was 1/4" of oily grime covering everything down stream.

The EGR was removed so the EGR cooler water pipe was swapped for a non-EGR version and the return pipe was blanked with a freeze plug.

 

[lelandEOD]

I checked the bearings, valve lash, and replaced the timing belt but at this point, the engine was pretty much ready to go in; all that remained was swapping the oil pan for a solid axle pan from a HDJ80.

I tried in vain to find one with the oil level sensor port but ultimately gave up and bought a new sensorless pan from Toyota.


...and this is pretty much how things sat for the next year.

 

[lelandEOD]

And, thus; so ended the generic prep phase of this transplant.

Now let's talk about some key similarities, differences, problem areas and their solutions specific to adapting this power train to a late model US spec LX450.

• Like all other HD diesel engines, the basic footprint fits into a 80-Series LX450, or their lowly FZJ brethren, fairly easily; the engine pedestals mate up nicely. I did have to swap the RH 100-series engine mount with a HDJ80 mount due to the different frame widths (I'm talking about the cast iron mount; not the rubber isolator mount).
• The transmission crossmember mating/alignment is a slightly different matter with some considerations (discussed later) but I was able to get everything lined up correctly and was even able to re-use my original driveshafts with no modification.
• The diesel radiator and fan shroud are diesel specific as the water pump is in a slightly different location from the gas version. Some people have been able to rig solutions to keep the petrol radiator by fabbing brackets to adapt the diesel radiator. I opted to buy the correct diesel radiator and shroud so everything was bolt in.

• For the fuel system, all that was required was dropping the fuel tank and removing the filler neck (which required cutting into two pieces). The restrictor was cut out of the fuel neck and I swapped the EFI petrol fuel pump assembly with a diesel specific pickup I found on the classifieds. I made up my own hard lines using the original as a template.

• I bought a HDJ80 vacuum canister, fuel filter bracket, and a couple other HDJ80-specific parts to make everything easier.

• For exhaust you can either buy a HDJ80 aftermarket exhaust system or fab your own. I opted to make my own because I enjoy the process and didn't care for how the aftermarket stuff was routed.
• The late-model FTEs actually came with a MAF in the air cleaner lid. Since I planned to use a HDJ80 air cleaner lid, I needed to come up with a solution. Luckily the Denso MAF used on this engine is the same form factor used in Chevy Duramax engines so I was able to find a weld-on bung to a 3" pipe union (just be sure you don't put it in upside down).

There are some specific considerations unique to the A750F 5-speed auto too. The 5 speed was introduced with the newer 100 series so there are some challenges presented in making this transmission work in a 80-Series.

 

[lelandEOD]

And now for a very important disclaimer. I am not a trail-blazer. I am not even a half-educated monkey. If it weren't for the determination and skill of others, this engine would still be sitting on my garage floor.

My friend, Bryan Lutz of Lutz Auto makes some really cool gadgets for Land Cruisers. He also happens to be the only other person I know running a FTE/A750F in a LX450. He has made some really critical parts needed to get this combo running in a 80 with minimal effort.
This includes:

• Bryan changed the resistors in my 80-Series cruise control stalk to negotiate with the FTE ECU
• A750F to A343F shift gate signal converter and shift lever
• Multiplex to 80-series Cruise, PWR, and 2nd Start light converter module
• OBD 2 Touch Screen with Pyro, Boost, and Transmission oil temp

The first problem is the physical location of the 80-Series shifter hole in the trans tunnel and A750F. The 80-Series and the 100-Series have the linkage on opposite sides. Luckily for us, Toyota unintentionally provided us with a solution. The NSS shaft traverses the transmission which means we can use the stub on the right side to attach a custom made lever to better work with the 80-series shift lever.

Here's the Lutz Auto lever mounted to the right side of the A750F.

Next up is the need to move the shifter to the right using one of his adapter plates. This puts the Hi/Lo shifter in the correct place for the trans tunnel and center console.

I think I found that the 100-Series shift select linkage rod worked better than the 80-Series rod as it had more adjustment/range. I also had to bend the Hi/Lo linkage rod into a bit of a dog leg to clear the Shift select linkage.

The next issue is that the shift gates on the 100-Series are completely different than the PRND2L selections we have on the 80-Series shifter assembly. Bryan's solution is to integrate a little magnetic switch to the 80's shifter that, coupled with the original O/D Off button, allows you to select 1st (L) and 4th (O/D off) functions electronically.

 

[lelandEOD]

The next 80-specific issue relates to the HF2AV transfer case. I both wanted to keep my factory driveshafts (if possible) and the viscous coupler. This meant I had to dump the 100-Series transfer case. For those facing this decision, I can confidently say that the 80-Series HF2AV transfer case bolts up to the A750F with zero issues. I did opt to swap the 80-Series CDL actuator with the 100-Series actuator to keep the wiring harness unmolested as the only difference between the two was the connector.

After some fussing, I was able to get everything to line up without much drama. Here is a quick list of my particular arrangement:

• A750F transmission
• 80-Series HF2AV transfer case
• 100-Series CDL Shift actuator
• 100-Series transmission isolator mount
• 80-Series transmission cross member (slightly altered)
• 80-Series driveshafts (unaltered)

The transmission crossmember needed to be altered with a hole saw to work with the 100-Series isolator because of this mysterious bolt protruding from the bottom.

 

[lelandEOD]

So, out with the old and in with the new(er).

 

[lelandEOD]

I had the motor in and out a couple times as I tinkered with fitment and checking to see which arrangement would work best. I can say without a doubt I never want to pull an engine without a gantry again. My buddy, @MountNGoat let me borrow his gantry and it is just the best thing ever.

I can almost pull the engine with one hand and not spill my beer!

 

[lelandEOD]

Now to address the biggest challenge with an FTE swap.

Like I mentioned, there was almost a year gap between the engine arriving and the actual transplant. Most of this time was spent planning and waiting for the wiring harness to be converted. I could have built my own standalone harness with enough time, ball punching, and self loathing but instead I opted to have a guy in Australia build me a custom grafted harness to mate the FTE to the LX450 body. It took 6 months to get the finished product back but it worked well with a couple important caveats. I found the harness builder, Jonathan (Thrashlux) on the Facebook FTE discussion group and has been building harnesses for years. I worked with him to determine what needed to be supplied in order to produce a near-plug and play harness for my US LHD LX450. Jonathan was able to use a provided LX450 engine harness and graft it to a LHD 100-series dash, engine, and transmission harness. He also bypassed the immobilizer in the ECU and added wiring for the factory cruise control, gauge cluster, and shifter.

I waited until he was ready to ship the finished harness and ECU back to me before I pulled the 1FZ to minimize downtime.

The end result was near flawless with the exception that I had to rework some aspects as it just didn't fit perfect in a LHD dash. I'm sure he knows exactly how to make these things jelly in a RHD configuration and he understandably had to guess here and there as I'm sure he doesn't see a lot of LHD diesel Toyotas in Australia.

I ultimately had to extend the leads for the diagnostic connector under the driver side fuse panel and the three added relays were in a bad location so I extended them over to the passenger side kick panel. I was originally hoping I could just route the new harness behind the dash without too much fuss but that was not to be. There is just ZERO room between the back of the glovebox and the heater/blower assembly to route wires or connectors:

This is where things got a little intense. ...they say a picture is worth a thousand words...

 

[lelandEOD]

The ECU also presented some issues. Although the diesel computer is only 1/2" wider than the 1FZ, those are apparently an important half inch. I had to get fairly dramatic in positioning the ECU to even come close to clearing the glovebox.

The dash support hardware were modified to move the ECU as far to the right as was possible.

I also had to modify/fab a bracket to put it in position:

With the space limitations, I had no option but to pull the entire dash and reroute the harness over the top of the dash support beam.
It was routed something like this:

In this ultra-sophisticated depiction, the jumbled mass or red represents where I had to stuff all of the harness connections that merge the FTE harness with the 80-Series body harness. I had to get pretty creative in how I squeezed everything under the airbag bracket but was able to get it all done to my satisfaction.

 

[lelandEOD]

The gas pedal mounted up with little effort. I had to add a rivnut to the firewall for the upper bolt location but it otherwise fit nicely.

To power the engine harness, two power connections are needed. I found two unused fuse locations on the engine bay fuse box which I adapted for use. I added a couple B-O primary wires to the AM1 fusible link to power the EFI system. Then I added a 15A fuse for the EFI and a 30A fuse for starter relays to the bottom left vacant positions.

Looks factory.

Sorted.

 

[lelandEOD]

Meanwhile, I slowly put the exhaust together.

The air cleaner had to be relocated just a bit to align with the turbo inlet. I cut off the feet with a spot weld remover and reattached the feet to align with the original fender location.

Once the air cleaner was relocated, I was able to figure out how to plumb the MAF into the intake stream. I got lucky with a couple silicon joiners which ended up mimicking the factory boot perfectly.

 

[lelandEOD]

Once the air cleaner was mounted I turned my attention to mounting the catch can.

In order to squeeze in the dual battery, ARB compressor, and washer bottle into this poor engine bay, I had to get a little creative with space management. I found a little bracket that let me use a hose clamp to hold to the catch cant onto the air cleaner.

Looks pretty clean once installed.

 

[lelandEOD]

The intercooler was a sh*tshow. Nothing really fit neatly and I'm not entirely happy but it seems to be working fine.

I did have to have a local shop fab me one A/C line for the high pressure side. I took the 100-series end taped to the 80-series end from the condenser and had a new hose made.

 

[lelandEOD]

Then it was on like Donkey Kong!

 

[lelandEOD]

...and the most important thing.

 

[SNLC]

Nice write up and you will be stoked!


I would suggest dumping the tach convertor Johnathan sent and going with a Dakota Digital. We had one of his catch on fire!!

As I am sure you probably know, if you want to get more out of the FTE it is fully doable.

I assume the ECU is for a 100? Do you have CC working and of so via the stalk?

Cheers

 

[lelandEOD]

Hmmm... what did it look like? I don't think I have any sort of external tach converter. I did unwrap and reorganize the harness quite a bit and re-wrapped it in harness tape as I was a little underwhelmed by some of the finishing touches.

And yes, I do have cruise working with the factory stalk... but getting the light on the dash to work will require a little more fiddling. Bryan makes a nice multiplex to analog converter for the Cruise, PWR, and 2nd Start light, but I was unable to get it to work. We are theorizing that my ECU may be sending a slightly different string of code and he will have to play with it in person to get it working. So, right now my cruise works, PWR, and 2nd Start all work, but I have no indicator lights. (EDIT: The Cruise/PWR/2nd lights all work now; I had the converter box wired incorrectly. )

 

[Workhorse]

Nice work Lee! Well done my friend!