Guzzla, great thread, thanks for sharing. Any better pictures of your headers??
Thansk
Stu
Thansk
Stu
Builds 1FZFE Engine Rebuild + Power Up (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter guzzla
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Great thread!! I may have missed it, but do you have a custom exhaust manifold?
Looks to be headers? Also, is that the A/C compressor mounted up high or am i missing something? Its not a york is it?
- Thread starter
- #24
Cheers guys,
The headers are from Pacemaker. They make them for the 80s and 100s, with the only difference being that the 100s doesn't have the exhaust going outside the chassis then back over. I do have a 30mm body lift but the kit was an easy fit and came with all the parts to get it to bolt up to the first muffler at the back of the transfer case. My 80s doesn't have any cats so there is no provision for it. Also remember my 80s is right hand drive.
I've run this exhaust system for several years now, along with a Unichip that was fitted and dyno tuned. I was looking for some paperwork the other day and came across the dyno readouts of the before and after results with the exhaust and unichip...
These results were recoded with 4.56:1 diffs, 315/75 muddies and 4th gear runs.
Before: 120.6hp @ 130kph & 273ftlb @ 94kph
After: 138.8hp @ 144kph & 314ftlb @ 92kph
Neither are very impressive figures on their own, but driving the vehicle before and after was a huge difference using the 'seat-of-the-pants' meter. The engine was far more willing to rev to and past 5000rpm while still feeling strong. If you are looking for a reasonable power upgrade that is very reliable, this sort of combo should be seriously considered.
But, as is the case when chasing more power, we always want more. And in doing so, this engine has now been built for forced induction and most of the parts have been collected ready for install - it's only a matter of timing now before it gets rolling. With the right mods, I don't think a relaible 300rwkw is an unreasonable target.
Of course, that
The headers are from Pacemaker. They make them for the 80s and 100s, with the only difference being that the 100s doesn't have the exhaust going outside the chassis then back over. I do have a 30mm body lift but the kit was an easy fit and came with all the parts to get it to bolt up to the first muffler at the back of the transfer case. My 80s doesn't have any cats so there is no provision for it. Also remember my 80s is right hand drive.
I've run this exhaust system for several years now, along with a Unichip that was fitted and dyno tuned. I was looking for some paperwork the other day and came across the dyno readouts of the before and after results with the exhaust and unichip...
These results were recoded with 4.56:1 diffs, 315/75 muddies and 4th gear runs.
Before: 120.6hp @ 130kph & 273ftlb @ 94kph
After: 138.8hp @ 144kph & 314ftlb @ 92kph
Neither are very impressive figures on their own, but driving the vehicle before and after was a huge difference using the 'seat-of-the-pants' meter. The engine was far more willing to rev to and past 5000rpm while still feeling strong. If you are looking for a reasonable power upgrade that is very reliable, this sort of combo should be seriously considered.
But, as is the case when chasing more power, we always want more. And in doing so, this engine has now been built for forced induction and most of the parts have been collected ready for install - it's only a matter of timing now before it gets rolling. With the right mods, I don't think a relaible 300rwkw is an unreasonable target.
Of course, that
- Thread starter
- #25
It's a modified AC compressor that is now my air compressor. It's a great bit of kit and can pump my 315s from 18 to 40psi in 1m5s. Some modify their own compressors but I got mine from Kareela Engineering here is OZ. I run it through a 10lt tank and it also runs my air lockers.
I'm keen to fit a turbo to my 1FZ-FE. Are you thinking of an off the shelf kit - AXT or similar- or custom ? Either way I assume it will be a tight fit with the hi mount compressor, but interested on which way yo are planning on going. Had a great Eater up at Dargo though, the BFG's got all torn on the rocks, GRRRRRRRR
- Thread starter
- #27
Been pretty busy with work lately so not much time for updates. I made up a 3in dump and got my local exhaust shop to fit up a full 3in system. Sure sounds nice now. But that wasn't before I got pulled over for a RBT on the way there while driving it with just the dump pipe on. They waved me in just as I was coming round the bend at full noise. Was an 'interesting' few minutes but they didn't care less and were up for a good old chat 
Had it on the dyno to check fueling and the OEM injectors are running out of fuel, thus making it very lean, around 3500rpm with 8psi boost. AFR's were in the 14's at this point
Still, even just driving below this point it's clearly obvious there's an animal screaming to get out.
Not interested in fitting a 7th injector as this is too dodgy for me and really just a band-aid solution. Right from the start of this project, reliability has been key, so, to do this, we've decided the best plan is to fit a Haltech Platinum Sport 2000, which is full stand alone ECU, a bigger set of injectors and a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. Now that it will be running full sequential injection (instead of semisequential) and a o2 sensor, this will greatly increase fuel economy when cruising or just taking it easy in general.
The new injectors are shown fitted to the fuel rail. The OEM injectors are 315cc, while the new injectors are 450cc. Getting the right injector is critical cos if you go too big, you can have trouble controlling fueling at idle, making it run like crap. Too small, and you'll have to crank the fuel rail pressure up beyond sensible and you're back to square one running too lean when on boost. So be sure to get it right as these suckers ain't cheap :shock:
Here's a close up for those wanting part numbers for future reference. They are also a direct swap with no mods needed - other than a retune, of course. I fitted them not long ago and it started fine but it was running super rich and not idling very smoothly. Sounded like my old LS1 with a lumpy cam
I wont risk diving it like that so will get a tilt tray to drop it off to the tuning shop.
Had it on the dyno to check fueling and the OEM injectors are running out of fuel, thus making it very lean, around 3500rpm with 8psi boost. AFR's were in the 14's at this point
Still, even just driving below this point it's clearly obvious there's an animal screaming to get out. Not interested in fitting a 7th injector as this is too dodgy for me and really just a band-aid solution. Right from the start of this project, reliability has been key, so, to do this, we've decided the best plan is to fit a Haltech Platinum Sport 2000, which is full stand alone ECU, a bigger set of injectors and a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. Now that it will be running full sequential injection (instead of semisequential) and a o2 sensor, this will greatly increase fuel economy when cruising or just taking it easy in general.
The new injectors are shown fitted to the fuel rail. The OEM injectors are 315cc, while the new injectors are 450cc. Getting the right injector is critical cos if you go too big, you can have trouble controlling fueling at idle, making it run like crap. Too small, and you'll have to crank the fuel rail pressure up beyond sensible and you're back to square one running too lean when on boost. So be sure to get it right as these suckers ain't cheap :shock:
Here's a close up for those wanting part numbers for future reference. They are also a direct swap with no mods needed - other than a retune, of course. I fitted them not long ago and it started fine but it was running super rich and not idling very smoothly. Sounded like my old LS1 with a lumpy cam
I wont risk diving it like that so will get a tilt tray to drop it off to the tuning shop.
Any pictures of the turbo setup? Or specs?
interesting... so you are agreeing that there is a fueling issue with forced induction, except you are tackling it by installing bigger injectors. Do you think the MAF system can handle the extra fuel calculations? I'm asking because it seems that is what most are doing is tackling the fuel issue from the MAF side. I'm guessing most feel it's more of a fuel/air metering problem rather than a fuel delivery problem.
From my experiences on other Turbo charged inline 6 cylinders (7m-GTE, 1JZ-GTE and 2JZ-GTE) is that the size of the injector for example a 315cc inj will handle about 315 whp at 100% duty. I would not recommend doing that though as its right on the edge and is hard on the injectors.
When I was building my Supra I always wanted to keep the duty cycle around 80% max. I have had injectors reach 100% duty below there limit when a fuel pump would start to go or the fuel would get hot and start to boil in the lines.
On a MAF system even if the meeter is reading more air flow but the injector is maxed out you are not going to get any added fuel. If I was turbo charging my 1FZ I would be watching my wide band AF meeter like a hawk and also watch injector duty cycle.
guzzla with the Haltech will not need to worry about any of that though as it totally replaces the MAF with a MAP system. With the haltech he will be able to watch inj duty as well. How much power are you looking for guzzla?
When I was building my Supra I always wanted to keep the duty cycle around 80% max. I have had injectors reach 100% duty below there limit when a fuel pump would start to go or the fuel would get hot and start to boil in the lines.
On a MAF system even if the meeter is reading more air flow but the injector is maxed out you are not going to get any added fuel. If I was turbo charging my 1FZ I would be watching my wide band AF meeter like a hawk and also watch injector duty cycle.
guzzla with the Haltech will not need to worry about any of that though as it totally replaces the MAF with a MAP system. With the haltech he will be able to watch inj duty as well. How much power are you looking for guzzla?
their trucks have different components and don't necessarily respond the same. History shows that our trucks run rich during boost up to 10 psi.
I ended up picking up some WRX blue injectors. They are high impedance and run at 425 cc. They are pretty much throw aways for that crowd and you can pick them up cheap.
I didn't even realize that he was over yonder.
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
Could you possibly give us a shot or 2 of the headers? I'm especially interested in how long the primaries are & seeing the merge setup as they(Pacemaker) are doing these.
I was going to fab my own downpipe using the factory manifolds for the 1FZ, but if these are quality built & fit reasonably well, then I'd save myself some time & get a set of these & just fab my midpipe on back.
I was going to fab my own downpipe using the factory manifolds for the 1FZ, but if these are quality built & fit reasonably well, then I'd save myself some time & get a set of these & just fab my midpipe on back.
- Thread starter
- #35
The OEM injectors were running at 80% capacity at 3500rpm. In a perfect world, you want not much more than 70% peak, 80% worst case scenario. Unless I was to just granny shift everywhere I went, I would not only kill the injectors pretty quick, but also the engine. Prior to having it dyno'd, I'd also fitted a Walbro 225GPH fuel pump. I know Safari got round this lean-out by fitting a 7th injector and running the secondary module with the unichip so it could read boost pressure and add fuel but, frankly, that is a dodgy way of solving the problem. Yes, it will work and is cost effecient, but it's far from the the correct way to address such issues. I can only assume there is a major altitude difference between OZ and the US for you guys with trubo 1FZFE's to be running so rich still. In an isolated case, it would make sense that the MAF is not able to increase fuel since it is taking readings before before the turbo. However, you guys in the US don't seem to have this issue under 10psi.
Wheelingnoob is on the money...by using the Haltech, we will be running a MAP sensor that will be tapped into the inlet manifold. While this will allow us to bypass the MAF for the most part, the OEM ECU still needs to be retained as it controls other parts of the vehicle such as the transfer case. Because of this and depending on a few other factors being considered, they may allow the OEM ECU to still control idle speed. The alterantive is to spend the extra time on the dyno to also set the idle speed fuel maps too. Additionally, by fitting an O2 sensor for closed loop fueling at cruising speeds, along with full sequential injection, fuel economy should still be pretty impressive.
A 1:1 RRFPR will also be fitted to ensure there is enough fuel being delivered at WOT. For the most part, I get lost with all the technical jargon. I just know they do this stuff all the time on way more expensive and hi-tech machines than mine and they have excellent results. Sometimes you just have to trust others to do a quality job. Considering the effort and expense invested in this project, I will be asking WTF??? if it's not making an easy 280 to 320RWKW on about 10-12psi.
The exhaust manifold is a Safari Turbo Manifold. I had to modify it to fit the external wastegate. I didn't modify the Pacemakers into a turbo manifold, though, I did consider it for a while.
As I might have mentioned earlier, doing the right calculations for the correct injector size is vital for a successful result. From a tuning perspective, it's always a compromise between going too large and not being able to have good control over injector flow at lower idle speeds and choosing a slightly smaller injector for nice idle mixtures and increasing fuel pressure slightly to make up any shortfall at higher RPM. I reckon Landtank is on the money with injector choice and application.
Wheelingnoob is on the money...by using the Haltech, we will be running a MAP sensor that will be tapped into the inlet manifold. While this will allow us to bypass the MAF for the most part, the OEM ECU still needs to be retained as it controls other parts of the vehicle such as the transfer case. Because of this and depending on a few other factors being considered, they may allow the OEM ECU to still control idle speed. The alterantive is to spend the extra time on the dyno to also set the idle speed fuel maps too. Additionally, by fitting an O2 sensor for closed loop fueling at cruising speeds, along with full sequential injection, fuel economy should still be pretty impressive.
A 1:1 RRFPR will also be fitted to ensure there is enough fuel being delivered at WOT. For the most part, I get lost with all the technical jargon. I just know they do this stuff all the time on way more expensive and hi-tech machines than mine and they have excellent results. Sometimes you just have to trust others to do a quality job. Considering the effort and expense invested in this project, I will be asking WTF??? if it's not making an easy 280 to 320RWKW on about 10-12psi.
The exhaust manifold is a Safari Turbo Manifold. I had to modify it to fit the external wastegate. I didn't modify the Pacemakers into a turbo manifold, though, I did consider it for a while.
As I might have mentioned earlier, doing the right calculations for the correct injector size is vital for a successful result. From a tuning perspective, it's always a compromise between going too large and not being able to have good control over injector flow at lower idle speeds and choosing a slightly smaller injector for nice idle mixtures and increasing fuel pressure slightly to make up any shortfall at higher RPM. I reckon Landtank is on the money with injector choice and application.
Looking forward to your results as I live about 10 ft above sea level and in a cold region. I know most who have boosted their trucks are at higher altitudes and warmer climates.
I have found with the Haltech Plat 2000 you can get big injectors to idle nice and smooth.....with in reason. We have had 720cc injectors idling like stock on a 1jz (2.5L). I had a Vipec V88 on my built cammed 2jz and had 880cc inj idling great on it. I found hi imp injectors tend to perform better at lower duty cycles than lows. Also there really is no replacement for a good injector, Siemens deka's are great for both spray patters and idle performance.
Using the stock ECU to control idle and some other functions is a good one. In that case I maybe would have gone with a Haltech Sprint 500 but you would give up the full seqencial inj with that.
Looking forward to seeing this on the road and some results!
Using the stock ECU to control idle and some other functions is a good one. In that case I maybe would have gone with a Haltech Sprint 500 but you would give up the full seqencial inj with that.
Looking forward to seeing this on the road and some results!
- Thread starter
- #38
It's coming along slowly. It's 99% wired up, including the eBoost2. They've had a few teething issues along the way but nothing major. The last hurdle seems to be a few hours spent chasing a miss that was finally tracked down to a faulty new injector #6 (it's always the last thing you suspect) It was suspected I may have damaged it during the install but I was highly sceptical. After removing and looking at it there was no physical damage and putting it on the flowbench showed it wasn't working at all. Clearly a manufacturing issue. Should have the replacement tomorrow. If that's the last of the issues, it will be onto the dyno and the fun and games begin.
The excitement is near killing me. The boys are certain it'll be a weapon once sorted and I sure hope so!!!
The excitement is near killing me. The boys are certain it'll be a weapon once sorted and I sure hope so!!!
Why use the EBoost2 when the Haltech Plat 2000 has a built in boost control output? I have seen it used in closed and open loop boost control and it works very very well.
- Thread starter
- #40
Ha ha!!! Funny you should say that. Unfortunately I already had the eBoost long before the reality of going to a full aftermarket EMS was ever a consideration. 
Anyway, at least I now have a boost gauge and another LED display to keep me entertained.
Anyway, at least I now have a boost gauge and another LED display to keep me entertained.
