1FZ - Weight? (1 Viewer)

[beatle_bayly]

Anyone know roughly the weight of a 1FZ with ancilliaries?

i.e. what minimum capacity engine stand is required to safely hold the engine when removed from the vehicle?

Is it safe to hold the engine by the rear bellhousing mounting bolts, should it be side mounted, or does it require other support (both engine mounts, rear and front support....??)

 

[Kernal]

A short block (no head, manifolds, timing gear/cover, or accessories) is a bit under 400lbs (?360). A complete engine is in the ballpark of 700 lbs (based on previous forum discussions).

IIRC someone once said they used a 1000lb rated engine stand but that it was barely adequate with some sagging of the stand under the weight.

This might be more adequate/safe:

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Wait for more responses.

 

[fresnoLC]

I used a 750lb 3 legger stand, would not recommend, definitely get a 4 wheel stand. I ended up welding a cross bar and 2 extra casters on the front before finishing the build. I would say a 1000lb stand would do the job. Always seen them mounted to the bell housing, worked for me.

 

[beatle_bayly]

Thanks,
680kg/1500lb looks to be minimum required.

 

[Trail Rated]

A 1FZ-FE weighs about 700 lbs

Most accessories still attached, intake to oil pan, No trans.

 

[baldilocks]

I have used the 1,000lb rated stand from Harbor Freight. My engine was nearly complete and I stored the engine on the stand for three years. No sagging or flexing of the stand. No need to spend the extra money on a stand rated more than 1k lbs.

 

[Kernal]

One advantage of the HF 2000lb engine stand is that the legs are foldable, takes up less room when stored and the wheels are larger.

There's a good video linked in the HF video above for the 2000lb stand
but here is it below including a video for the 1000lb stand for comparison:



This next video is for the 2000lb stand (price is now $159)

 

[FMC80]

I want one too but I want mine made in the US.

 

[beatle_bayly]

I'm in Australia so no HF.

This one looks the goods, and foldable.
For the amount of use I'd give it foldability is secondary. I'll likely just break it down, strap it together, and store it off the floor when I'm done.

TradeTools

www.tradetools.com

Doesn't have much triangulation support for the vertical pipe (rear straps on the HF 2000lb-er), but there is a small welded gussett.

Equivalent to $120USD / 1500lb.

Single centre leg means I can stand closer to the job, but may mean more 'slop' than the two leg versions when loaded rotationally.


One thing I hadn't considered is how a stand would interface with my existing crane when transferring the engine:

 

[beatle_bayly]

Were you guys comfortable using only four bolts to attach the engine to the stand?

 

[slow95z]

4 bolts is fine but get the 2K stand. the 1K i have will technically hold the weight but was made for a v8 and not that long I6 so it sags really bad. i was unable to spin the engine around to work on all sides. with my 2K stands we can flip it and work on the things anyway we want.

 

[baldilocks]

One advantage of the HF 2000lb engine stand is that the legs are foldable, takes up less room when stored and the wheels are larger.

There's a good video linked in the HF video above for the 2000lb stand
but here is it below including a video for the 1000lb stand for comparison:



This next video is for the 2000lb stand (price is now $159)

I’m laughing at myself here. According to the info you posted here I have the 2000lb stand not the 1,000lb stand which I stated yesterday. Thanks for reminding me of what I have.

 

[mklemp]

I'm in the process of rebuilding my 1FZ-FE engine and I'm using a friend's 3 wheeled 750lb stand from Harbor Freight. This stand doesn't appear to be available any longer. My biggest issue with this stand is 3 vs 4 wheels and the lack of stability with the full engine weight. When you start cranking on the head bolts it has a tendency to tip. I would opt for a stand with 4 wheels. The 1000lb 4 wheeled stand that's currently available on their website will get the job done.

 

[Njck22]

I'm in the process of rebuilding my 1FZ-FE engine and I'm using a friend's 3 wheeled 750lb stand from Harbor Freight. This stand doesn't appear to be available any longer. My biggest issue with this stand is 3 vs 4 wheels and the lack of stability with the full engine weight. When you start cranking on the head bolts it has a tendency to tip. I would opt for a stand with 4 wheels. The 1000lb 4 wheeled stand that's currently available on their website will get the job done.

View attachment 2960350

Personally I use thick shag carpet in the garage but I applaud your choice

 

[beatle_bayly]

I hate soft floors. How on earth do you find where that bolt fell if you can't hear it hit the floor!!!!

 

[manofthewoods]

I hate soft floors. How on earth do you find where that bolt fell if you can't hear it hit the floor!!!!

Finding dropped bolts is easy; follow Murphy's law. Look in the worst possible place, never gonna be in a easy place.

 

[beatle_bayly]

I'm in the process of rebuilding my 1FZ-FE engine and I'm using a friend's 3 wheeled 750lb stand from Harbor Freight. This stand doesn't appear to be available any longer. My biggest issue with this stand is 3 vs 4 wheels and the lack of stability with the full engine weight. When you start cranking on the head bolts it has a tendency to tip. I would opt for a stand with 4 wheels. The 1000lb 4 wheeled stand that's currently available on their website will get the job done.

Thanks for that photo. Shows how to mount the block to the stand.

Would I need to remove the flywheel on a manual transmission engine, or will the mounts clear it OK?

 

[BILT4ME]

Thanks for that photo. Shows how to mount the block to the stand.

Would I need to remove the flywheel on a manual transmission engine, or will the mounts clear it OK?

Typically you DO need to remove the flywheel before mounting it on the stand because the flywheel will hit the bolts on the stand that hold the inner part of the brackets. This has mostly to do with the stand and the "stand-off-brackets" that are on the stand and how far away it allows the back of the block to set from the inner part of the stand. You want to keep that short so it doesn't hang out there too far (overhung load).

Also, when you hang the engine, hang it so that the Center Of Gravity (COG) is near the center of the big pipe it pivots on. This is typically HIGHER than the center of the crankshaft a few inches because when it comes time to roll that engine upside down, it will either get away from you or you won't be able to get it upright again.

 

[beatle_bayly]

Good tips, thanks.
I do recall many years ago wrestling a 6.2 V8 diesel on a rollover stand single-handed so the CoG hint is worth repeating.
Flywheel will come off to access rear seals anyway.