Keep us posted on how that joint seals once you have it installed. How much room is there for the turbo under the manifold? I would be swapping a Turbonetics T62-1 from my other cruiser. Though a turbo with an intergrated wastegate would eliminte the BOV and all of its plumbing. And my T62-1 has the T4 flange.
1FZ turbo exhaust manifold has arrived from Oz (w/ pics) (1 Viewer)
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Toyo Boyo
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How much room? At the moment the engine mounting is clashing with the turbo - not by much though. I am looking into fitting a diesel engine mount and using the front slot on the frame - its about 3'' forward - see pics. Toyota have kindly left some extra threaded holes on the block for me to pick up. According to Toyodiy.com most of the mount is the same for both vehicles. I am trying a CT26 off the diesel lump. It it doesn't work I'll sell it on ebay and get something else.
Turboglide use a custom GT35 with integrated waste gate. A/R of 1.06 = big!
Extra threaded holes
Slot closer to the front of the truck, leave me more room for turbo.
the back facing is where the nuts are on the flange. If you look at the factory manifolds you will see how Toyota machined them. The nuts you are using are different than our nuts over here. Our nuts have a locking section that extends beyond the nut and from the picture your flange would not allow them to engage the threads properly.
And having an integrated waste gate doesn't negate the need for a BOV as someone posted.
And having an integrated waste gate doesn't negate the need for a BOV as someone posted.
in my manifold design I had to shift the Turbo flange back so it was in the middle of the 3 and 4 ports. That position made it so the compressor would clear the engine mount but then made an integrated waste gate very difficult.
It's tight quarters down there.
It's tight quarters down there.
Toyo Boyo
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Engine mount - I'm wheeling with a load of diesel LC80's over the weekend - I'll get some pics of their engine mounts. I suspect I will have to fab one up and locate on 4 holes, using that forward slot.
I'm getting the flange spot faced next week so I can use locking nuts.
BOV - Toyota never seem to use them on these low pressure applications. I'm going to try it without a BOV. If it needs one I'll get one off ebay - there'll be plenty of places I can fit it.
for the comments.
I'm getting the flange spot faced next week so I can use locking nuts.
BOV - Toyota never seem to use them on these low pressure applications. I'm going to try it without a BOV. If it needs one I'll get one off ebay - there'll be plenty of places I can fit it.
for the comments.You may not NEED a BOV, but you may want to consider one. I am only running around 7 psi and if I come off boost I can hear the BOV opening and bleeding off pressure that would normally just slam into the turbine. I hope I explained this correctly.
On a gas engine you absolutely need a blow off valve. Most diesels do not have them since they are fuel throttled as oposed to air throttled.
sleeoffroad
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I would not worry about that joint. The AVO uses the same type of system and we have had zero issues.
I think that toyota found it easier to use the rings as opposed to a closer tolerance during mass production.
From what I have seen on aircraft exhaust there are no rings on a tubing double or single slip joint. They seal just fine due to tight tolerances.
From what I have seen on aircraft exhaust there are no rings on a tubing double or single slip joint. They seal just fine due to tight tolerances.
Fabbing a mount should be pretty straight forward. You can use the forward engine bosses as attaching points if need be. I also like to use those poly trans mounts for Fords and Chevy's here in the states (15USD each) to make motormounts for high torque/HP applications.
Not convinced either facing or elongating the holes you reference earlier is necessary. Remember toyota uses the expansion slots for the single piece manifold. You have 2 short manifolds that account for expansion in the slip joint. That slip joint eliminates the need for that extra machining. Facing can't 'hurt' but a couple of mold washers will work just fine to make the 'facing' for the nut side.
A well built slip joint manifold shouldn't require any sealing rings and not leak. That manifold looks well built.
Running low boost and an autobox, I wouldn't put one in either. Your boost spike is minimal, and an intercooler will absorb that boost spike thrust load on the turbo pretty well. Torque converters tend to last longer with the (non BOV) slightly slower ramp up of boost anyhow.
HTH and my .02
Scott J
94 FZJ80 Supercharged
Toyo Boyo
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- #32
Hi Scott,
Thanks for the comments - as I've said before I need all the help I can get lol.
You mention Toyota using expansion slots for a one piece manifold - my truck has already got two small manifolds - each goes into its own down pipe which is then 'Y' jointed into a single pipe into the first cat. Do your 1FZ's have a different set up?
Here's a pic of the rear one - complete with some Celtic blood, shed whilst 'enjoying' the EGR stud....
Thanks for the comments - as I've said before I need all the help I can get lol.
You mention Toyota using expansion slots for a one piece manifold - my truck has already got two small manifolds - each goes into its own down pipe which is then 'Y' jointed into a single pipe into the first cat. Do your 1FZ's have a different set up?
Here's a pic of the rear one - complete with some Celtic blood, shed whilst 'enjoying' the EGR stud....
our trucks are the same. If you look at the holes in the manifold you will see that there is one small hole for location and the rest are larger for expansion. If you compare the nuts between the exhaust/pipe and the exhaust/head you'll notice that the exhaust/head nuts have a larger flange even though they are the same size.
being that this manifold is a log style I would at least copy the stock manifold hole sizes for expansion.
being that this manifold is a log style I would at least copy the stock manifold hole sizes for expansion.
Toyo Boyo
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Hi Rick,
As far as I could see, the two holes in the centre pipe are a closer fit on the studs. The outer pairs are clearance, quite a lot too - about plus two mil (I suppose thats about 80 thou in old money haha). I get what you're saying about the nut flanges - I hadn't noticed that!
There's plenty of metal on the new manifold to copy the Toyota arrangement and I rate their R & D better than mine. So I think I'll get the machining done.
As far as I could see, the two holes in the centre pipe are a closer fit on the studs. The outer pairs are clearance, quite a lot too - about plus two mil (I suppose thats about 80 thou in old money haha). I get what you're saying about the nut flanges - I hadn't noticed that!
There's plenty of metal on the new manifold to copy the Toyota arrangement and I rate their R & D better than mine. So I think I'll get the machining done.
these are JIS automotive studs and for all practicle purposes they don't exist. I suppose someone could make something work but if there is a failure you donb't have the dealer as a go to for parts anymore. I prefer to have that option available to me.
Hi Rick,
As far as I could see, the two holes in the centre pipe are a closer fit on the studs. The outer pairs are clearance, quite a lot too - about plus two mil (I suppose thats about 80 thou in old money haha). I get what you're saying about the nut flanges - I hadn't noticed that!
There's plenty of metal on the new manifold to copy the Toyota arrangement and I rate their R & D better than mine. So I think I'll get the machining done.
As you might know I've been developing a manifold and I try and not leave any stone unturned.
Hello, and I hope this is not a silly question. Which turbo model is recommended by the manufacturer? I am guessing that your need to re-work the engine mount is due to your selection of a different model than that used by the manufacturer, or does the manufacturer also relocate the engine mount when they install there system.
I to am interested in your build and admire those out there with the ability and knowledge to tackle these projects.
Cheers Peter
I to am interested in your build and admire those out there with the ability and knowledge to tackle these projects.
Cheers Peter
Toyo Boyo
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- #39
The 1FZ as used in the LC80 was never turboed by Toyota (AFAIK) so there isn't one 'recommended' for this application.
That's what makes this so much fun - you look up your turbo maps and takes your pick of the many different turbos available for the type of performance you want.
And that's where the fun really starts - should this be a twin turbo application (using two small ones) or bolt on a big mother and go all out for big power?????? Or high pressure? Low pressure? etc etc
And what's all this about ability and knowledge? I'm making it all up as I go along lol
edit - I must say my able assistants are the ones with the knowledge btw!!!!! without whom I would not be tackling this build (thanks guys)
That's what makes this so much fun - you look up your turbo maps and takes your pick of the many different turbos available for the type of performance you want.
And that's where the fun really starts - should this be a twin turbo application (using two small ones) or bolt on a big mother and go all out for big power?????? Or high pressure? Low pressure? etc etc
And what's all this about ability and knowledge? I'm making it all up as I go along lol
edit - I must say my able assistants are the ones with the knowledge btw!!!!! without whom I would not be tackling this build (thanks guys)
OOOps, small mistake on my part, I meant to ask which turbo is recommended by the manifold manufacturer, I am wondering if there is a turbo application that would not require the re-working of the engine mount, and would that turbo present the same or different benefits from the one you have selected.
Cheers Peter
Cheers Peter
