1FZ New vs Rebuild Questions (2 Viewers)

[jaymar]

Q1: Sure, it's nice to have shiny new parts but... Given the proven longevity of this engine, does it really make sense to go all-new, vs. rebuild? Is there any practical advantage there, this side of a million miles?

Q2: If rebuilding, and a quarter-million miles or more to the next rebuild is your goal... Which parts can you reuse with confidence (pending examination of course), and which parts should you just replace and not even think about reusing?

Just to cite one example: I'm not sure there's any real point to running a new block and head; all you're really getting (or so it seems to me) is a block with one more overbore rebuild in its future than the current block (assuming the current block needs to be bored out, which it may not). Or am I missing something?

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Depends on the neglect history of your motor. You will know as you brake it down. Lots of data points to show block is stout. Many have opened engines that were north of 250k miles to see factory hone marks. Me included. I did not redo my bottom end. My engine was in the truck so I did not do rear main seal, but you should if engine is out. You can add new piston rings of you want. I did not. I just redid the cyclinder head (new valve guides, stem seals). Can reuse old valves or add new. I would definitely do a valve adjustment by checking all shim pucks and replacing if worn. Check cam bearings for spec. Replace it if off spec. Use all new cylinder head bolts. Go OEM or ARP. Use OEM head gasket kit. The head gasket kit has all the gaskets you need except for a couple. Do front main seal. Definitely replace gaskets. Definitely replace timing chain and slippers while you are in there. If timing chain is within stretch specs reuse. Spend $$ on the cooling system. Replace PCV/ gasket and spark oil seals on valve cover. Replace PS pump seals.

 

[SaturnAscends]

Q1: Sure, it's nice to have shiny new parts but... Given the proven longevity of this engine, does it really make sense to go all-new, vs. rebuild? Is there any practical advantage there, this side of a million miles?

Q2: If rebuilding, and a quarter-million miles or more to the next rebuild is your goal... Which parts can you reuse with confidence (pending examination of course), and which parts should you just replace and not even think about reusing?

Just to cite one example: I'm not sure there's any real point to running a new block and head; all you're really getting (or so it seems to me) is a block with one more overbore rebuild in its future than the current block (assuming the current block needs to be bored out, which it may not). Or am I missing something?

Have you done an oil analysis recently? Might give you at least some idea of what's wearing out the most without tearing it all apart.

 

[jaymar]

Have you done an oil analysis recently? Might give you at least some idea of what's wearing out the most without tearing it all apart.

Uses a good deal of oil (front main seal leak), so not sure how useful that will be. But I did save a sample of the oil it came with; might be useful, assuming the OP didn't change it just before sale...

 

[Kernal]

IME large oil leaks from the front of the engine are mostly from the oil pump cover (has that been replaced yet), but both that gasket/o-ring and the front crank seal are replaced at the same time. FWIW

 

[jaymar]

IME large oil leaks from the front of the engine are mostly from the oil pump cover (has that been replaced yet), but both that gasket/o-ring and the front crank seal are replaced at the same time. FWIW

Yes could be; will simply replace all. Right now they're rust-proofing the parts beneath them (and ate into the closest bushing, now replaced).

 

[SNLC]

Bottom end rebuild vs new short block imho is a cost analysis.

In my shop you are going to save $500-1000 on rebuild vs new short block. So if you need to save $$$ here and there do the rebuild.

Pretty much all comes down to a cost analysis and or wear on parts. If you are doing it yourself rebuilding is certainly cheaper. Again, in my shop, in a rebuild you got to pay us to do the tear down, checking of all specs, machine shop work, clean up and paint, assembly. With a new short block all you got to do is paint it cause Toyota does a horrible job on this for 1fzfe short blocks. FSM says if the head needs anything replace it. I don’t think that is required and we rebuild them all the time. Toyota doesn’t want you to shave/surface it though. When you pay for labor in a shop, it’s not much more to say replace a p/s pump with new OEM vs a rebuild. So for things like that we usually replace when new, save rebuilds for when we can’t get new OEM parts and rebuild is the only option such as on your older Cruisers. This is just all my opinion and how we do it in my shop.

I put an all new 1fzfe in my 95’, cause parts are still available. And well, I can. Don’t regret it at all and it is the healthiest strongest most powerful stock 1fzfe I have ever driven.

Cheers

 

[Dr Gil]

My mechanic convinced me to go rebuild vs new. One of the reasons is that the block has already been through the heat expansion process
and you know what you have. Most all other motor parts are new. I rebuilt mine at 348K, and I feel confident I can go another 600K with this rebuild.

 

[Fj80oregon]

I just rebuilt a motor, doing all the work myself accept for machine work. It was super fun and a great learning experience. With all that said I would buy a new short block and swap over the dowel pins and what not. I did new pistons, piston rings and tons of other new parts. If really depends on what you need? Have you done a compression check or leak down test to see if you even need to worry about the bottom end? At 265k my motor was rock solid original head gasket and great compression it just burned a quart of oil every 1k because of valve guide seals. It may be all your leaks and valve guide seals helping you with oil changes. If it’s just the head and fixing common leaks you can stay Under 1500 if you do the work. I’ve heard It’s a pain in the ass to do in the truck but lots have done it. I was lucky to buy a donor motor and have months to rebuild at my leisure. Anyways the price of a new short block vs buying all new pistons rings your time and a machine shop doesn’t out way the cost in my opinion. Along with who knows what the previous owners have not done right in the past. And it will be shiny!!!! Pics of rebuilt!

 

[COYS]

Here’s mine all new OEM parts except for valve cover cuz NLA.

Zero regrets. I can push 85mph on MT 37s now no huff puff. Zero oil consumption. I can say factually that I know now the full history of the that powers my 80. That has a price and I was glad to pay it.

I’m curious when T will NLA the 1FZ-FE short block. If NLA, I would’ve been fine to rebuild my og short block, but would always go new head.

Day’s end, it’s a personal decision. Go with what makes ya happy.

Gl!

 

[AndrewInf]

My HG blew in 2015 at ~287k miles and I had a shop just rebuild the head. Oil burning went away (going off blue smoke/smell) although I'm still losing some oil slowly from the oil pump cover.

Mechanic handled everything and said the bottom end looked fine.

This cost me $2400 total (including tax).

 

[SucioP]

Finally getting the bottom end back from the machine shop next week. At the time, I thought I would save about $500 by going rebuild w/ bore, new pistons, rings, connector bolts, etc.

If I had it do over again, I would have gone short block, broken even and been a couple of months further along than I am now.....

 

[Fj80oregon]

Finally getting the bottom end back from the machine shop next week. At the time, I thought I would save about $500 by going rebuild w/ bore, new pistons, rings, connector bolts, etc.

If I had it do over again, I would have gone short block, broken even and been a couple of months further along than I am now.....

My feelings exactly! As gratifying as it is to rebuild fix stuff there comes a point where your time is worth more than the money and a new short block saves you a lot of time!

 

[jaymar]

This is just all my opinion and how we do it in my shop.

From the look of things, that's good enough for me. And I'm picky (whether I can afford it or not)...

 

[6806goats]

After all the stuff I've modified and then sold because it was no longer what I wanted (68 Camaro RS 327 4 speed, went to 283 and Powerglide 4500 rpm stall, w 4.88 rears...totally ruined that car) I've decided to keep original numbers matching where possible. May not be anything to consider for some or even to a new buyer but it's now something of importance to me. My 68 GTO has a 455 ci engine, not sure where the stock 400 is. Thought of pulling the LS2 out of my 2006 GTO to test fit it into the LC but no way. I've thought of going to a new block and head for the LC but then I'd have left over parts that are discarded because I didn't take time and money to reuse what was originally built for my rig. Now if the original is beyond repair then game on. This is also why I battle with myself putting an LS in my LC. Sure I'd like more power and gears but then I'll ruin the stock aspect of the beast. Just my ramblings and everyone has their own ideas.