1FZ-FE Thoughts/Clarification (3 Viewers)

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Couple of thoughts to start.

You need to look at area under the curve before you go all in on this. You need to be very specific on what you want and what you are willing to give up to make this a go. Another big question is smog compatibility and your expectations for use.

While I agree a manual trans is superior in every way to older automatics, the new ones are impressive, just not all that durable in stock form. I too would rather row my own gears in a traveling or towing rig, but for a wheeling rig, the auto's have some real advantages in technical situations. Personally, I would stick with the H55 and go with an engine that can be readily adapted to it rather than do an entire drive train swap.

Regarding the specs of the 1FZ in naturally aspirated form, the HP increases are nice, but the area under the curves are not all that impressive when you get right down to it. In my experience, even with a stock 80 series, it is a significant upgrade over an F based motor, but they are still slow compared to a V8 swap. Although there is quite a difference between a 1FZ and a 2F, it is not on the order of magnitude like a turbo diesel or V8 swap.

You need to be realistic in your expectations. A 1FZ is a good upgrade, but it is still a 4.5 liter motor that was tuned to run 250K miles while being so smooth that a luxury vehicle owner would never complain. That sounds great, until you realize that the average American vehicle of a similar weight to your 60 and better aerodynamics will be running a 4.6 to 6.6 liter V8, a turbo charged 3.5 V6 or a turbo 2.7L Inline four with four, six, eight or ten gears in the transmission.

With that said, either putting a turbo on your Toyota inline motors, or swapping engines to a much larger cubic inch V8 is basically your only sensible option to push that brick at modern freeway speeds, since a N/A 2F was never intended for freeway use at our speeds. As for durability with a turbo, the 2F only has 4 main bearings and will be operating at double it's designed in power level if you go that route with a sub-standard cooling system that will weigh 200 lbs more than a modern V8 .

If money is no object and you don't mind the work, then the 1FZ with a blow thru turbo setup with a throttle body injection would probably be the easiest way to get the power levels you want. The longer tube oem fuel injection manifold would be better for torque, but the complexity might not be worth the work. As for transmissions, the factory automatics behind the 1FZ would hold up to that power level quite well, but the electronics to make them work are an issue to overcome.

As much as I hate the idea of an LS motor, they truly are impressive pieces of engineering. Done right, they have incredible power, done well, they have impressive durability. They are light years ahead of F-motor design and are more durable, efficient and powerful.

just turbo the 1fz-fe. you won't leave your foot in it very long. ask me how I know. ;-)

- turbo 1fz-fe / h55f in a 74 FJ55 body on fzj80 frame
- turbo 1fz-fe / h55f in a 66 FJ45LV
- NA 5.2L 1fz-fe / h55f in a 78 FJ55 (new project)
- turbo 1hd-fte / h152f in a 97 lx450
- turbo 1fz-fe / a343f in a 97 fzj80 (kid's truck)
 
The H15x looks to be ~$3500-4500 with transfer case. Not insane all things considered, and I do want any swap to be done right, not done cheap. That said, considering I have a working H55F and transfer case already in the truck, how much would I truly gain with that? It sounds like I would most likely want the H150 since I really enjoy my lower 1st when I'm off road. Legendary Toyota 4x4s - Toyota Diesel 4x4s For Sale - https://www.legendarytoyota4x4s.com/ has an H151F and transfer case for $4500 (they also have a rebuilt 1HD-T, but those are a steep entry price...).

Emissions aren't a think where I live, though I guess I can't truly rule out that I might land in an emissions city at some point in my life. Just how bad is the wiring on the factory 1FZ-FE harness? My mechanic is specifically familiar with the FZJ's, so it shouldn't be much of a learning curve for him to fit it into my FJ60.

just turbo the 1fz-fe. you won't leave your foot in it very long. ask me how I know. ;-)

- turbo 1fz-fe / h55f in a 74 FJ55 body on fzj80 frame
- turbo 1fz-fe / h55f in a 66 FJ45LV
- NA 5.2L 1fz-fe / h55f in a 78 FJ55 (new project)
- turbo 1hd-fte / h152f in a 97 lx450
- turbo 1fz-fe / a343f in a 97 fzj80 (kid's truck)
How are you mating the 1FZ-FE and the H55F in these?

The talk in this thread is getting me generally excited about the idea of this swap vs. a 1HD-T (cost) and a LS3 (I love my inline Toyota's).

Thank you all!
Clark

EDIT: Gonzopancho, what sort of MPG are you getting with these swaps? My 60 would be heavier I'm guessing, but I would think exonomy would be about the same as your FJ45/55's.
 
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@dogfishlake how does the Haltech compare to the OEM computer regarding reliability? Looking at their website their ECU's run $2500-2600 for the "plug and play" kit.
 
Wiring to the stock ECU is easy. In fact, any stand alone will need the same stuff, power ground, AC if you have it, etc... I think the stock ECU is actually easier because it already plugs into everything on the engine including the hold downs, etc..., you just need to power it and wake it up. It mounts behind the glove box so as long as you mount in that general location the lengths are good to go too.

You will need to run the fuel lines down the d-side frame rail since the exhaust will now run down the p-side, not a big deal but a little bit of work. I'd also suggest going with an FJ62 gas tank, better baffles to catch the fuel return flow so less air gets sucked into the lines when fuel is low.

Frank
 
The H15x looks to be ~$3500-4500 with transfer case. Not insane all things considered, and I do want any swap to be done right, not done cheap.
they're difficult to fit in older trucks. I've had a h55f behind a 1fz-fe in a 40 and 55. the h15x is worse.
That said, considering I have a working H55F and transfer case already in the truck, how much would I truly gain with that? It sounds like I would most likely want the H150 since I really enjoy my lower 1st when I'm off road. Legendary Toyota 4x4s - Toyota Diesel 4x4s For Sale - https://www.legendarytoyota4x4s.com/ has an H151F and transfer case for $4500 (they also have a rebuilt 1HD-T, but those are a steep entry price...).

the 55 build has a h55f, nw blackbox "doubler", 3.1:1 gears in the split case, and 4.56 gears in the 3rds. 186:1 crawl ratio. You can start it in gear, pointed uphill.
Emissions aren't a think where I live, though I guess I can't truly rule out that I might land in an emissions city at some point in my life. Just how bad is the wiring on the factory 1FZ-FE harness? My mechanic is specifically familiar with the FZJ's, so it shouldn't be much of a learning curve for him to fit it into my FJ60.


How are you mating the 1FZ-FE and the H55F in these?
fj.co bell housing. uniclutch.

The talk in this thread is getting me generally excited about the idea of this swap vs. a 1HD-T (cost) and a LS3 (I love my inline Toyota's).
The wife's 62 has a LS3 / 6L80e combo (on a locked 80 frame).
Thank you all!
Clark

EDIT: Gonzopancho, what sort of MPG are you getting with these swaps? My 60 would be heavier I'm guessing, but I would think exonomy would be about the same as your FJ45/55's.
I've not driven the LV yet. Milage is expected to be about the same as an 80, maybe a little better, assuming I mostly stay out of boost. Mostly.
 
Sweet. Is there a tentative timeline or is this a "when there is enough demand" type of situation?

it's a "when I can get it to the top of the list" type of situation. Currently re-engineering Bump It Offroad's protection catalog, adding in a few desirable 80 series accessories. Knowing there is demand helps me consider accelerating the development side.
 
it's a "when I can get it to the top of the list" type of situation. Currently re-engineering Bump It Offroad's protection catalog, adding in a few desirable 80 series accessories. Knowing there is demand helps me consider accelerating the development side.
I'm ready.
 
I have a lot of my own products cast from various grades of aluminum then machined in house. A friend of mine is a brilliant patternmaker.

Those FJco bellhousings look ROUGH. They look like an afterthought more than a product if you've ever dealt with patterns and sand casting.

Given what I figure the market probably is for this stuff (not that big) and the nightmare factor of working with foundries on small runs this is what i would do-

I would build an HMC fixture to mill the back off and prep 343 and 442 bellhousings. Then I'd make new trans mounting surfaces from 6061. Basically tab and slot to rough locate. Then weld these on with the bellhousing bolted to a fixture plate so it moves very little.

Then back into the HMC for one or two ops to mill one or both sides plus clutch release hole/features depending on how much the block side warps.

I'd offer two flavors- One for the H55, one for the NV4500.

NV4500 is way cheaper and better than an H150.

I've done tons of castings and still do a fair amount. Casting is the dead last option in todays modern era of USA manufacturing.

Now, if you're going to have them made overseas by low bidder then it's totally different story. Tons of foundries to work with. Not my cup of tea though.
 
We've done two of these using the FJ Co bellhousing, and would absolutely do them again if the parts were available. In the 60, it did allow for keeping the transmission sitting in its mount and not having to redo anything in the drivetrain. We used the Haltech system made for the 80. It does not make LS power but does make more than the 2F and is 400% smoother at every rpm. The rest of the drivetrain still makes enough noise that you still get the full experience. 10/10 would recommend.

tempImageOZVmMF.webp
 
@FJ60Cam G damn, that is a good looking engine bay. Do you have any experience with 3111160230? Keeping the transmission mounts and drive shaft the same sounds wise, and my shop and I can easily tap some extra holes in the factory housing if that's the only difference between the two. Any idea what MPG those 60's got after your swap? MPG is probably the only thing that would push me towards a diesel. Just did a trip in the South West where I got a whopping 7mpg in my Sniper'd 2F...that's pretty f'n hard to swallow. Even if I had no f's to give towards economy, the difference in range between 7mpg and 20+??? in a diesel makes a huge difference in capability. 10% (1mpg) is mentioned based upon factory literature, but is that realistic given the variables? Somehow I'm hoping for better MPG, but that might be something akin to s***ting in one hand and hoping in the other?

Another question for @FJ60Cam why did you use the Haltech setup vs. the factory computer? I'm all for leveraging newer technology, but is Haltech more reliable or likely to produce more power than a factory computer? I want all the things, but ultimately reliability and parts availability are my priorities.

Thanks!
 
@FJ60Cam G damn, that is a good looking engine bay. Do you have any experience with 3111160230? Keeping the transmission mounts and drive shaft the same sounds wise, and my shop and I can easily tap some extra holes in the factory housing if that's the only difference between the two. Any idea what MPG those 60's got after your swap? MPG is probably the only thing that would push me towards a diesel. Just did a trip in the South West where I got a whopping 7mpg in my Sniper'd 2F...that's pretty f'n hard to swallow. Even if I had no f's to give towards economy, the difference in range between 7mpg and 20+??? in a diesel makes a huge difference in capability. 10% (1mpg) is mentioned based upon factory literature, but is that realistic given the variables? Somehow I'm hoping for better MPG, but that might be something akin to s***ting in one hand and hoping in the other?

Another question for @FJ60Cam why did you use the Haltech setup vs. the factory computer? I'm all for leveraging newer technology, but is Haltech more reliable or likely to produce more power than a factory computer? I want all the things, but ultimately reliability and parts availability are my priorities.

Thanks!

7MPG, there has to be something amis. The 1FZE should be more efficient and turning gas into mechanical power than the 2F due to better flow and engine management. I recently did a trip to Coyote Flats with my wife driving our 80 pulling a trailer with our 2 wheeled toys with me in 60, both rigs full of kids, dog, and gear. The 80 still bested the 60 in MPG if only a little (1MPG) and that's with the 80 turning 37s, 4.88 gears. The 60 is turing 35's, 4.56 gears. While a gasoline engine cannot match the efficiency of the diesel thermodynamic cycle, you should definitely be well over 7MPG with the 2F / Sniper you have. Bringing this back to the 1FZE, I would think you should see 12+ loaded on a trip out here in the southwest. Unloaded you might see 14 or so. Obviously it's hard to say but my 80 unloaded can get 13 (highway) so the lighter 60 with a manual should best that.

Frank
 
@FJ60Cam G damn, that is a good looking engine bay. Do you have any experience with 3111160230? Keeping the transmission mounts and drive shaft the same sounds wise, and my shop and I can easily tap some extra holes in the factory housing if that's the only difference between the two. Any idea what MPG those 60's got after your swap? MPG is probably the only thing that would push me towards a diesel. Just did a trip in the South West where I got a whopping 7mpg in my Sniper'd 2F...that's pretty f'n hard to swallow. Even if I had no f's to give towards economy, the difference in range between 7mpg and 20+??? in a diesel makes a huge difference in capability. 10% (1mpg) is mentioned based upon factory literature, but is that realistic given the variables? Somehow I'm hoping for better MPG, but that might be something akin to s***ting in one hand and hoping in the other?

Another question for @FJ60Cam why did you use the Haltech setup vs. the factory computer? I'm all for leveraging newer technology, but is Haltech more reliable or likely to produce more power than a factory computer? I want all the things, but ultimately reliability and parts availability are my priorities.

Thanks!
I would concur you have some issue with your setup. I just crossed the country in my 60 with a full load(roof top tent, camp gear, 2 people, drawer system) and was returning 15mpg crossing the plains. Setup is a sniper, h55, 33's.

Regarding the 1FZ engine, I have one in my 75 series (F) and it's a gem of an engine. Inline 6 engines are just so nice to drive. Inherently balanced, Toyota quality, what's not to like?
 
7 MPG is rich to the extent of causing engine damage.

That's like big cubic inch V8 in a motorhome driving 70MPH mileage.
 
Well, this is a nice place to discuss this matter.
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In my FJ collection is my daily white FJ62, which has low mileage. Then I had a long story with a modern 1FZ-fe that ended up in my possession. I am aware that this swap is a common practice in Qatar, and I can complete it within a week. However, I wanted to approach it in my own way to gain a deeper understanding of this concept. I do not hate the 3F, but I already have another stock 62 in black that I won't sell, and I do have a solid patena 1986 that has no engine, so that 3F will be used.

I plan to try it with H55 first, as my Qatari friend did for his swap, then go with H151 if needed.
When I reached my Qatari friend, he shared this photo, which is an FZJ80 bell housing that had been modified to fit the H55 pattern.

1759598831348.webp


He took the following from FZJ80 the disk from FJ62 h55
- Flywheel is a 1fz's
- Fork and bearing
- Plate and clutch from zj80

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In my case with latest 1FZ-fe. I have to go with fzj79 ECU because it came without key security.

Here is a sample of shop work for making housings for swaps
this one i believe is a uz engine to nissan transmission, however he did one for gm to h55.

IMG_9498_Original.webp

IMG_9497_Original.webp
 

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