Will this be brought back to the open market for purchase?I have one, and have already scanned it.
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Will this be brought back to the open market for purchase?I have one, and have already scanned it.
Couple of thoughts to start.
You need to look at area under the curve before you go all in on this. You need to be very specific on what you want and what you are willing to give up to make this a go. Another big question is smog compatibility and your expectations for use.
While I agree a manual trans is superior in every way to older automatics, the new ones are impressive, just not all that durable in stock form. I too would rather row my own gears in a traveling or towing rig, but for a wheeling rig, the auto's have some real advantages in technical situations. Personally, I would stick with the H55 and go with an engine that can be readily adapted to it rather than do an entire drive train swap.
Regarding the specs of the 1FZ in naturally aspirated form, the HP increases are nice, but the area under the curves are not all that impressive when you get right down to it. In my experience, even with a stock 80 series, it is a significant upgrade over an F based motor, but they are still slow compared to a V8 swap. Although there is quite a difference between a 1FZ and a 2F, it is not on the order of magnitude like a turbo diesel or V8 swap.
You need to be realistic in your expectations. A 1FZ is a good upgrade, but it is still a 4.5 liter motor that was tuned to run 250K miles while being so smooth that a luxury vehicle owner would never complain. That sounds great, until you realize that the average American vehicle of a similar weight to your 60 and better aerodynamics will be running a 4.6 to 6.6 liter V8, a turbo charged 3.5 V6 or a turbo 2.7L Inline four with four, six, eight or ten gears in the transmission.
With that said, either putting a turbo on your Toyota inline motors, or swapping engines to a much larger cubic inch V8 is basically your only sensible option to push that brick at modern freeway speeds, since a N/A 2F was never intended for freeway use at our speeds. As for durability with a turbo, the 2F only has 4 main bearings and will be operating at double it's designed in power level if you go that route with a sub-standard cooling system that will weigh 200 lbs more than a modern V8 .
If money is no object and you don't mind the work, then the 1FZ with a blow thru turbo setup with a throttle body injection would probably be the easiest way to get the power levels you want. The longer tube oem fuel injection manifold would be better for torque, but the complexity might not be worth the work. As for transmissions, the factory automatics behind the 1FZ would hold up to that power level quite well, but the electronics to make them work are an issue to overcome.
As much as I hate the idea of an LS motor, they truly are impressive pieces of engineering. Done right, they have incredible power, done well, they have impressive durability. They are light years ahead of F-motor design and are more durable, efficient and powerful.
that's the idea, yes.Will this be brought back to the open market for purchase?
that's the idea, yes.
How are you mating the 1FZ-FE and the H55F in these?just turbo the 1fz-fe. you won't leave your foot in it very long. ask me how I know.
- turbo 1fz-fe / h55f in a 74 FJ55 body on fzj80 frame
- turbo 1fz-fe / h55f in a 66 FJ45LV
- NA 5.2L 1fz-fe / h55f in a 78 FJ55 (new project)
- turbo 1hd-fte / h152f in a 97 lx450
- turbo 1fz-fe / a343f in a 97 fzj80 (kid's truck)
they're difficult to fit in older trucks. I've had a h55f behind a 1fz-fe in a 40 and 55. the h15x is worse.The H15x looks to be ~$3500-4500 with transfer case. Not insane all things considered, and I do want any swap to be done right, not done cheap.
That said, considering I have a working H55F and transfer case already in the truck, how much would I truly gain with that? It sounds like I would most likely want the H150 since I really enjoy my lower 1st when I'm off road. Legendary Toyota 4x4s - Toyota Diesel 4x4s For Sale - https://www.legendarytoyota4x4s.com/ has an H151F and transfer case for $4500 (they also have a rebuilt 1HD-T, but those are a steep entry price...).
fj.co bell housing. uniclutch.Emissions aren't a think where I live, though I guess I can't truly rule out that I might land in an emissions city at some point in my life. Just how bad is the wiring on the factory 1FZ-FE harness? My mechanic is specifically familiar with the FZJ's, so it shouldn't be much of a learning curve for him to fit it into my FJ60.
How are you mating the 1FZ-FE and the H55F in these?
The wife's 62 has a LS3 / 6L80e combo (on a locked 80 frame).The talk in this thread is getting me generally excited about the idea of this swap vs. a 1HD-T (cost) and a LS3 (I love my inline Toyota's).
I've not driven the LV yet. Milage is expected to be about the same as an 80, maybe a little better, assuming I mostly stay out of boost. Mostly.Thank you all!
Clark
EDIT: Gonzopancho, what sort of MPG are you getting with these swaps? My 60 would be heavier I'm guessing, but I would think exonomy would be about the same as your FJ45/55's.
Sweet. Is there a tentative timeline or is this a "when there is enough demand" type of situation?
I'm ready.it's a "when I can get it to the top of the list" type of situation. Currently re-engineering Bump It Offroad's protection catalog, adding in a few desirable 80 series accessories. Knowing there is demand helps me consider accelerating the development side.
@FJ60Cam G damn, that is a good looking engine bay. Do you have any experience with 3111160230? Keeping the transmission mounts and drive shaft the same sounds wise, and my shop and I can easily tap some extra holes in the factory housing if that's the only difference between the two. Any idea what MPG those 60's got after your swap? MPG is probably the only thing that would push me towards a diesel. Just did a trip in the South West where I got a whopping 7mpg in my Sniper'd 2F...that's pretty f'n hard to swallow. Even if I had no f's to give towards economy, the difference in range between 7mpg and 20+??? in a diesel makes a huge difference in capability. 10% (1mpg) is mentioned based upon factory literature, but is that realistic given the variables? Somehow I'm hoping for better MPG, but that might be something akin to s***ting in one hand and hoping in the other?
Another question for @FJ60Cam why did you use the Haltech setup vs. the factory computer? I'm all for leveraging newer technology, but is Haltech more reliable or likely to produce more power than a factory computer? I want all the things, but ultimately reliability and parts availability are my priorities.
Thanks!
I would concur you have some issue with your setup. I just crossed the country in my 60 with a full load(roof top tent, camp gear, 2 people, drawer system) and was returning 15mpg crossing the plains. Setup is a sniper, h55, 33's.@FJ60Cam G damn, that is a good looking engine bay. Do you have any experience with 3111160230? Keeping the transmission mounts and drive shaft the same sounds wise, and my shop and I can easily tap some extra holes in the factory housing if that's the only difference between the two. Any idea what MPG those 60's got after your swap? MPG is probably the only thing that would push me towards a diesel. Just did a trip in the South West where I got a whopping 7mpg in my Sniper'd 2F...that's pretty f'n hard to swallow. Even if I had no f's to give towards economy, the difference in range between 7mpg and 20+??? in a diesel makes a huge difference in capability. 10% (1mpg) is mentioned based upon factory literature, but is that realistic given the variables? Somehow I'm hoping for better MPG, but that might be something akin to s***ting in one hand and hoping in the other?
Another question for @FJ60Cam why did you use the Haltech setup vs. the factory computer? I'm all for leveraging newer technology, but is Haltech more reliable or likely to produce more power than a factory computer? I want all the things, but ultimately reliability and parts availability are my priorities.
Thanks!