1FZ-FE Rebuild Lessons learned/still learning

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A tip I'll add is to set the engine to TDC #1 during dis-assembly before you pull the dizzy, use a paint marker on the inside of the distributor body to mark where the rotor points at for cylinder #1. Makes it quick and easy to see that the distributor is on the proper gear tooth during re-assembly.
 
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Only one real way to be sure on the timing, and that is to remove the valve cover and dizzy, turn the crank to TDC of #1 compression stroke which should put you at 2 dots on each FSM gear being aligned and your crank pulley Mark at 0, turn two full turns until all the timing marks are level and your timing marks on the cam gears are inline. Then align the pinion gear on the dizzy with the mark on the housing and install about half way, make sure your rotor doesn't move, align the center of the adjusting grove on the dizzy body with the hold down bolt hole. Slide it in nice and smooth and tighten it down. Make sure when you start the engine that you're idling 650-700 rpm with e1 te1 jumped and then time it. If it doesn't adjust out proper at 3* BTDC you might want to look into the harmonic balanced/ crank pulley. It is rubber insulated and could have slipped leaving you with improper timing marks. Other than that, it looks like yours is a 95 or newer engine? If it's OBD2 compliant book it up to a quality scan tool and see what the real time diagnostics says about your timing compared to your timing gun reading.
 
Lesson learned today, if you get your block decked you need to take the timing cover to get shaved at the same time. Got my bottom end together and when I bolted the timing cover on I saw that it sat slightly higher than the block. Now at a standstill. Again

Hmm, this is interesting to me as I had this done and didn't experience this issue. However, it makes total sense the way you explained it so I'm not sure why this didn't happen to me.
 
Lesson learned today, if you get your block decked you need to take the timing cover to get shaved at the same time. Got my bottom end together and when I bolted the timing cover on I saw that it sat slightly higher than the block. Now at a standstill. Again
I am wondering how much was shaved. Wasn't an issue for me at 0.012
 
Hmm, this is interesting to me as I had this done and didn't experience this issue. However, it makes total sense the way you explained it so I'm not sure why this didn't happen to me.
I could feel it with my fingers so I put the dial indicator on it and the cover was .011 higher. I asked the machinest if the head gasket would compensate. He said no. He’s going to see if he can machine it down
 
Hmm, this is interesting to me as I had this done and didn't experience this issue. However, it makes total sense the way you explained it so I'm not sure why this didn't happen to me.
I could feel it with my fingers so I put the dial indicator on it and the cover was .011
I could feel it with my fingers so I put the dial indicator on it and the cover was .011 higher. I asked the machinest if the head gasket would compensate. He said no. He’s going to see if he can machine it down
Ended up buying another timing cover/oil pump. Machine guy wasn’t sure he could hold it still without bolting it back to the block which I had already assembled. So I tried sanding it down myself which didn’t work well with the tools I used. So to Amazon I went. Lucky for me the new one fit perfect
 
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