1999 100 series Landcruiser ABS master cylinder help

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Surfoverland

Surfoverland

Joined
Jun 3, 2018
Threads
15
Messages
244
Location
Oceanside ,ca
Hey everyone, I first want to thank everybody for their thorough write-up on the master cylinder rebuild do it yourself especially Ski-Doo and the other guys who have been so great on these threads. I followed the thread after I received the brake light and the buzzer of death sound.
I had the automotive electric place in Whittier rebuild the motor and I ordered a new ECU for the side of the master cylinder. Also installed a new wire brake control cable. I put everything back together put it back in and I'm in the process of trying to engage the system and nothing is happening when I pump the pedal the 40 times I do not hear anything click on nothing happens. When I pump the pedal I do not even see any fluid in the reservoir move like I've seen in the other videos. Any help, ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated
 
Do you still have the alert beeper on?
There’s 2 way I see:
1. Completely bleed the whole system, including 4 brake calipers and the master cylinder, disconnect the battery for several minutes (somewhere around 10min will do or even less), then put the battery back on. If everything is functioning well it will automatically clear the codes and make you system and motors to work properly.

2. There is an analysis port in the inside of the right front fender, which have Analysis written on it, open it, make a bridge between port E1 and Tc (Port codes are written in the cap). Get inside the car, turn the ignition on, press the brake pedal (completely) for more than 8 times in less than 5 seconds, this is supposed to clear all error codes in the brake system. It didn’t work to me but you can give it a try, this is from FSM or FRM.
 
It is interesting that connecting this two will show a diagnosis mode on the media screen.
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I counts find out what there kind of code shows though.

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I tried the option number two to clear the codes by Bridging the ports and that did not have any success. Do I need to have the brakes professionally bleed or could I do it myself with a simple store-bought vacuum bleeder? I would just hate to pay the money to have the brakes bled to find out something else isn't working and then start back over.
 
Also does anyone know if I took it to the dealership and had them bleed the brakes and run Diagnostics on it if it was not operating after bleeding the brakes could they diagnose and pinpoint where the issue was or would they just say master cylinder replacement?
 
Turn IG key to on! Start flushing at rear with IG on and brake pedal just held down.
 
Don't run pump when doing rears for to long. I generally run it for less than 20 seconds, than check level.

When you get to front's. Pump pedal 20 times first bleed, than about five time each bleed thereafter. Each front will take about ten times/bleeds. Close each bleeder before letting off brake pedal each time. Keep fluid above low line.

When done with a calipers bleeder, Torque the bleeder to 10ft-lbf (120IN-lbf) this is just a little more than factory spec, but works well to stop from weeping fluid.

Once done, turn IG key off and pump pedal 40 times. Than top off to max line (read what is embossed on top of reservoir). Next, time how long pump runs when you turn IG to on, to fill accumulator. Once full pressure is reached it shuts off. You're look for spec time of 30 to 40 seconds.
 
2001LC said:
Don't run pump when doing rears for to long. I generally run it for less than 20 seconds, than check level.

When you get to front's. Pump pedal 20 times first bleed, than about five time each bleed thereafter. Each front will take about ten times/bleeds. Close each bleeder before letting off brake pedal each time. Keep fluid above low line.

When done with a calipers bleeder, Torque the bleeder to 10ft-lbf (120IN-lbf) this is just a little more than factory spec, but works well to stop from weeping fluid.

Once done, turn IG key off and pump pedal 40 times. Than top off to max line (read what is embossed on top of reservoir). Next, time how long pump runs when you turn IG to on, to fill accumulator. Once full pressure is reached it shuts off. You're look for spec time of 30 to 40 seconds.
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Hey guys just wanted to send a huge thank you so much for all the feedback and all the help. I was able to fix the master cylinder. It was the electric motor I had to have it rebuilt two times as the brake cable shorted out again and burnt the motor out again but finally got it all fixed and bled the brakes and it seems to be working perfect. Again I can't thank you enough for the responses and help.
 
Surfoverland said:
Hey guys just wanted to send a huge thank you so much for all the feedback and all the help. I was able to fix the master cylinder. It was the electric motor I had to have it rebuilt two times as the brake cable shorted out again and burnt the motor out again but finally got it all fixed and bled the brakes and it seems to be working perfect. Again I can't thank you enough for the responses and help.
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Can you post some pictures of the brake control wire (brake cable shorted) and the internals of the motor?
Would you also explain what you mean "brake cable shorted" ?
 
Finish your flush/bleed by stomping on brake pedal on a gravel, icy or wet road to activate ABS 3 times or more. This insure ABS working and pumps some fresh fluid through.
 
After removal help from the threads mentioned above, I found the brake control wire(toyota part#88639b) was rusted and corroded away at the point where it attaches to both the electric motor and the computer module on the right side of master cylinder assembly. Obviously the boots that cover both attachment terminals was not water tight after 20 years. The brake control wire was so rusted that i could not get it off the computer module. There are 2 small screws that hold the terminals to the the electric motor and on the other end to the computer module. These would not come off the computer and was clearly the reason for my brake system failure. My electric motor was not powering the accumulator.

I sourced a used module from Cruiser Outfitters and also a brake control wire, for a total of $400.

I had the motor rebuilt by Eurton Electric in Whittier California. $300. Charlie was a huge help!

I put everything back together BUT I DID NOT take notes or pictures of how the brake control wire was wired to each side. Basically make sure you note where positive and negative sides go. I BURNED OUT MY FIRST MOTOR BECAUSE I WIRED IT BACKWARDS AND BURNED THE MOTOR OUT AND HAD TO SEND IT BACK AND HAVE IT REBUILT! The sequence was opposite of what you would think. Or at least me. Lol. After hooking up a tester and finding positive and negative. I wrapped it all up and followed all brake flushing as nicely provided by @2001LC . To ensure my first time brake flushing i took it to my family mechanic and had them double check. All good!!!!! $700 plus some labor.

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@abuck99 here is one more that wire had corrosion and motor went bad.

@Surfoverland
Boots being old don't have a bearing on wires corroded from what I've seen. I've a 00LX with ~600km spent time in wet environments, no corrosion. Yet have seen low mile 2007 from dry environment with corrosion.

I was hopeful you had picture or re-builder indicate "what" in motor was bad. I'm finding and hunting for anecdotal evidence of correlation between corroded brake control wire and commutator of booster motor being worn out. Can you contact re-builder see what he has to say?

BTW: FSM states that wire, nuts and screws are non reusable. To re-use used wires, may reduce life of motor and may damage ABS unit. We just don'y know as Toyota tells us nothing.

Brake master assembly FSM.webp
 
2001LC said:
@abuck99 here is one more that wire had corrosion and motor went bad.

@Surfoverland
Boots being old don't have a bearing on wires corroded from what I've seen. I've a 00LX with ~600km spent time in wet environments, no corrosion. Yet have seen low mile 2007 from dry environment with corrosion.

I was hopeful you had picture or re-builder indicate "what" in motor was bad. I'm finding and hunting for anecdotal evidence of correlation between corroded brake control wire and commutator of booster motor being worn out. Can you contact re-builder see what he has to say?

BTW: FSM states that wire, nuts and screws are non reusable. To re-use used wires, may reduce life of motor and may damage ABS unit. We just don'y know as Toyota tells us nothing.

View attachment 2083675
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"The brushes inside the motor melted/burned" direct quote from Eurton Electric. "
2001LC said:
@abuck99 here is one more that wire had corrosion and motor went bad.

@Surfoverland
Boots being old don't have a bearing on wires corroded from what I've seen. I've a 00LX with ~600km spent time in wet environments, no corrosion. Yet have seen low mile 2007 from dry environment with corrosion.

I was hopeful you had picture or re-builder indicate "what" in motor was bad. I'm finding and hunting for anecdotal evidence of correlation between corroded brake control wire and commutator of booster motor being worn out. Can you contact re-builder see what he has to say?

BTW: FSM states that wire, nuts and screws are non reusable. To re-use used wires, may reduce life of motor and may damage ABS unit. We just don'y know as Toyota tells us nothing.

View attachment 2083675
Click to expand...
Sorry forgot to mention that I did source a new 89639b wire from JP-Carparts.com $26 including shipping. Toyota dealership wanted $280 for just the wire.
 
We (@2001LC) were discussing the wire orientation the other day. The replacement wire has white paint marks on one end of wire at the base of the boot. This paint marked end goes on the motor.
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Surfoverland said:
"The brushes inside the motor melted/burned" direct quote from Eurton Electric. "
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I would expect this when crossing the wires. But is this what he said the first re-build motor or was first motor replaced with used and he speaking about second motor? I'm confused!
 
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