1997 FJ80 Transmission Hard Shift from 1st to 2nd

[bakerbrian]

Hey,

I have a 1997 FJ80 that runs and drives great except one issue. When shifting from 1st to 2nd it shifts really hard. Everything else seems fine. Does not slip or anything.

I have read change fluid and filter but also read change shift solenoids. Would love to get some feedback please.

 

[bakerbrian]

Bumping to the top. Really need some advice please.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Is the pwr button "on"?

 

[Andrew Bluemel]

Adjust your kickdown cable

 

[Malleus]

There is no kickdown cable adjustment on the 3rd generation (A343F) transmission. There is an excerpt from the service manual in the Resources section, specifically for the transmission, so you don't have to slog through the entire manual. There is also a 1997 service manual in there, which you should download, if you haven't already.

The problem matrix for the A343F is broken down so that you can check the easiest to find (not necessarily the most likely) first, starting with
1) Electronic control, proceeding to
2) On vehicle mechanical troubleshooting, and then to
3) Unit repair (transmission removal and disassembly).

Here's the problem matrix from that excerpt:

The numbers at the bottom are the order in which you proceed with troubleshooting. The numbers at the top f the column indicate the page(s) where the recommended procedure is found.

@bakerbrian
I'm going the long way around because you didn't provide very much diagnostic information, so anyone's recommendation is a guess.

1. From the Maintenance schedule "B", if you haven't changed your ATF in two years, it's time to do that. Summit has the best price on ATF for the A343F right now. You'll need 12 quarts. Draining the pan will not solve any problems and only cost money. At the risk of belaboring the point, image changing the water in a swimming pool (of any size) by taking a bucket of water out of one end and replacing it with a bucket of water in the other end. That's what draining your pan does for the transmission. See the next post for a summary on how to flush your transmission safely and thoroughly.

2. How many miles are on the truck and the transmission, if it's not the original unit and has been overhauled./rebuilt?

3. What kind of driving do you regularly do?

4. There is no filter to change in the A343F.

5. Changing the solenoids is a waste of money if there is nothing wrong with them. You won't know that until/unless you remove the pan and check each one functionally. The procedure is in the service manual. That would not be my first step, unless I knew the fluid was usable (had been changed in the past two years and the transmission had not seen use conditions in Maintenance schedule "A").

6. Lastly, the manual indicates the first check is the solenoid function of the Shift Lockup (SL) circuit. This assumes the fluid is in good condition and no other problems exist. The troubleshooting matrices always assume the problem is a single point of failure; they were written for dealer technicians servicing trucks in the first 5-7 years of service, not 35 years after initial delivery. You have to make allowance for the general age and condition of the truck when troubleshooting.
Also, there's no reason not to check all the solenoids while you have the pan off.

 

[Malleus]

I apologize, I thought I had a procedure written with photos, but I can't put my hands on it. I'll put one together in the morning and try to post it before lunch.

The basic procedure is to remove the outlet hose from the transmission cooler circuit into the bottom cooler tank nipple and use that to drain the transmission. You fill it through the dipstick tube, as it drains out. The transmission pump provides the force to move the fluid out of the system.

This method will clean all the fluid, except what's in the torque converter, almost completely. You'll miss about 1/2 quart, unless you flush is with 14 quarts, and then you'll likely get it all cleaned. I never use more than 12 quarts and it has always worked well for me.

This is the safest and fastest way to change the fluid. Although this is one of the every few procedures I'd rather do on a 100 series, it isn't that bad.

 

[Malleus]

Here's the oil I use:

 

[ExpoMax]

There is no kickdown cable adjustment on the 3rd generation (A343F) transmission. There is an excerpt from the service manual in the Resources section, specifically for the transmission, so you don't have to slog through the entire manual. There is also a 1997 service manual in there, which you should download, if you haven't already.

The problem matrix for the A343F is broken down so that you can check the easiest to find (not necessarily the most likely) first, starting with
1) Electronic control, proceeding to
2) On vehicle mechanical troubleshooting, and then to
3) Unit repair (transmission removal and disassembly).

Here's the problem matrix from that excerpt:
View attachment 3758032
View attachment 3758037
The numbers at the bottom are the order in which you proceed with troubleshooting. The numbers at the top f the column indicate the page(s) where the recommended procedure is found.

@bakerbrian
I'm going the long way around because you didn't provide very much diagnostic information, so anyone's recommendation is a guess.

1. From the Maintenance schedule "B", if you haven't changed your ATF in two years, it's time to do that. Summit has the best price on ATF for the A343F right now. You'll need 12 quarts. Draining the pan will not solve any problems and only cost money. At the risk of belaboring the point, image changing the water in a swimming pool (of any size) by taking a bucket of water out of one end and replacing it with a bucket of water in the other end. That's what draining your pan does for the transmission. See the next post for a summary on how to flush your transmission safely and thoroughly.

2. How many miles are on the truck and the transmission, if it's not the original unit and has been overhauled./rebuilt?

3. What kind of driving do you regularly do?

4. There is no filter to change in the A343F.

5. Changing the solenoids is a waste of money if there is nothing wrong with them. You won't know that until/unless you remove the pan and check each one functionally. The procedure is in the service manual. That would not be my first step, unless I knew the fluid was usable (had been changed in the past two years and the transmission had not seen use conditions in Maintenance schedule "A").

6. Lastly, the manual indicates the first check is the solenoid function of the Shift Lockup (SL) circuit. This assumes the fluid is in good condition and no other problems exist. The troubleshooting matrices always assume the problem is a single point of failure; they were written for dealer technicians servicing trucks in the first 5-7 years of service, not 35 years after initial delivery. You have to make allowance for the general age and condition of the truck when troubleshooting.
Also, there's no reason not to check all the solenoids while you have the pan of

There is kickdown cable adjustment....

A good read 80-series Throttle Adjustment - Land Cruiser Tech from IH8MUD.com - https://www.ih8mud.com/tech/80throttle.php

 

[Malleus]

Did you actually read the post you cited? It is for the A442F not the A343F in the 1997 Land Cruiser.

 

[bakerbrian]

Is the pwr button "on"?

No, I have tried it with and without.

 

[bakerbrian]

I apologize, I thought I had a procedure written with photos, but I can't put my hands on it. I'll put one together in the morning and try to post it before lunch.

The basic procedure is to remove the outlet hose from the transmission cooler circuit into the bottom cooler tank nipple and use that to drain the transmission. You fill it through the dipstick tube, as it drains out. The transmission pump provides the force to move the fluid out of the system.

This method will clean all the fluid, except what's in the torque converter, almost completely. You'll miss about 1/2 quart, unless you flush is with 14 quarts, and then you'll likely get it all cleaned. I never use more than 12 quarts and it has always worked well for me.

This is the safest and fastest way to change the fluid. Although this is one of the every few procedures I'd rather do on a 100 series, it isn't that bad.

Thank you so much for all of your very detailed help! When you get the flush procedures posted that will be my first step. Again thank you for taking the time to do all of this for me and others in the community.

 

[Malleus]

OK, so the procedure will have to wait until tomorrow; my best effort was overcome by events (my daughter's homecoming dance...don't ask).

Please stand by.

 

[bakerbrian]

OK, so the procedure will have to wait until tomorrow; my best effort was overcome by events (my daughter's homecoming dance...don't ask).

Please stand by.

No worries at all. Thank you for all of your help.

 

[ppc]

Won't ask but I'm sure it's hard to type while your holding a shotgun.

 

[ExpoMax]

Did you actually read the post you cited? It is for the A442F not the A343F in the 1997 Land Cruiser.
View attachment 3758300

Lol have you looked in the engine bay of a 97 recently

 

[Malleus]

Yes, as a matter of fact I have. And a '96 and a '95. And they're all the same. And there is still no cable adjustment that affects the A343F transmission.

 

[Malleus]

@bakerbrian

Here is the long-awaited 80 series ATF flush procedure. I cannot take credit for this, I adapted it from Paul's 100 series procedure. (I apologize for the photos, I only have my phone to work with and it sucks)

You will need a few items before you begin. You must have these on hand, so prepare...
1. clear plastic tubing, 34" long, at least Ø7/16 inch I.D. (the cooler metal tubing is Ø10-mm O.D. which, with the coating is exactly 0.400-in, on all the trucks I measured)

2. a clear, or at least transparent, container, graduated in quarts

3. an ATF funnel

4. 12 quarts of your favorite ATF

5. a JIS (+) screwdriver (or you'll screw up your screw heads - no pun intended)

or these from ASR (I really like the little one). You can get the Vessel branded screwdrivers, just make sure you get JIS and not Phillips. All these type of screws on the truck are JIS. None are Philips.

6. a tool to loosen the tubing/hose clamp on the cooler outlet

The tool is part number AE921, and the spinner is part number BE3-Q. This tool set works on all the hose clamps on the truck. The design allows it to be used either end-on, perpendicular to the hose clamp, or inline with the hose, for those hard to reach (the "why, oh why, didn't they put more room to work in here") spots. The tool is designed to be used with either a 3/8" drive ratchet or the spinner (for places you can't even get your whole hand into).

The square thread design ensures the clamp jaws of the tool cannot move under load. Cost to me, shipped from Japan (thanks again, Dave): ¥6, 120 for the tool and ¥1,690 for the spinner (that's USD 39.96 and 11.00, respectively, at current exchange rates).

KTC is Kyoto Tool Company. They are the choice of mechanics in Japan and the tools Toyota buys for their own assembly lines. When I asked Dave if he could get KTC tools, his response was, "I own a Land Cruiser and I live in Japan, what tools do you think I use?".

There are many different tools you can use for these clamps. I have tried many and they all have one thing in common: they suck. These do not.

7. one (1) drain plug seal, 35178-30010. Your dealer will have this in stock. Do not reuse the old seal.

8. one (1) helper, tall enough to reach the brake pedal.

Optional: something to clean up spills with. ATF stains permanently, don't wear your Sunday best while performing this procedure. Kerosene removes ATF.

 

[Malleus]

First you need to drain the pan. It will help if you drive around town (not on the highway or interstate) for 15 or 20 minutes prior to this step.

Pull the drain plug and throw the old seal away. This will help you resist the urge to reuse it. You should get about 5.5 to 6 quarts if you let it drain overnight. A full 24 hours is better. The more fluid you get out now, the less contaminated your fluid will be in the end.

Unfortunately, you cannot get all the fluid out (even if you remove the pan). This method will only remove about 9 quarts. There is residual in the case and two (2) quarts in the torque converter which you cannot drain out. Even if you drained the case for several days, it'll have a quart tucked away in it and I haven't found a way to completely drain a torque converter, yet (apologies to TC rebuilders - you know who you are).

The same is true if you have the dealer use their flush machine; it works the same way, except, IMHO, not as well.

On the next day, reinstall the drain plug and new seal. Installation torque is 15 lb·ft. Be gentle.

Next, you need to remove the grill. Well, to be honest, if you are a glutton for punishment, you don't have to, but I do.

There are five (5) mounting screws (marked with yellow painter's tape) and one (1) clip. I highly recommend the tape. You'll see why in a minute.

This method prevents loss of screws and helps you remember to check to ensure that all of them are back where they belong after you're finished. This is a type of work method created by Toyota called the Poke-Yoke (pronounced pokey yoke). It literally translates to idiot proofing.

Once you have the grill removed, you'll be able to access the ATF oil cooler.

The outlet tubing/hose connection is the one you want to remove:

(Thank you Thing)

Using the tool of your choice, loosen the clamp and slide it down below the tubing bead. Pull down on the hose and move it to the side, away from the cooler. You can tape it in place or zip tie it, as you prefer. It should not leak, as long as it is oriented vertically, and you don't drop the end below the level of the cooler tubing outlet (raising it an inch higher is better).

If you need to assure yourself that you are in fact removing the outlet and not the inlet (which would cause a mess), look under the power steering pump from below and find the two gray metal tubing lines running from back to front. The upper one is the return and the lower one is the feed to the cooler. Follow those around the power steering high pressure hose to the cooler (you may have to remove you battery and battery box to see this clearly - this step is not required).

 

[Malleus]

Now slip the clear plastic tubing onto the cooler outlet, as far as it will go. There is no need for a clamp here, there will be no pressure in the system.

I really like the Windex container I used here, because it is already graduated (for the bottom 3 quarts) on the container. Regardless of which container you use, you need to verify the quart graduations yourself - do not trust a manufacturer's advertising. 4 cups make a quart; I'm sure there's a 2-cup measuring cup in the house. Fill the container one quart at a time and mark the graduations on the outside. You can use water; you're going to dispose of the old ATF anyway (unless you're like me and have found the use for old ATF).

Also, the container here has a hollow handle; the tubing fits into it so there is no need for a clamp to secure the hose. Nifty, huh?

I haven't shown it, and didn't list it, but a shallow pan under the container is a good idea (don't use the aluminum roasting pans in the grocery store - they are notorious for pinholes). There will be dribbles.

 

[Malleus]

Finally, you need to pull the transmission dipstick and stick the funnel into the tube: