1997 1FZ Hiccupy idle and running rich (6 Viewers)

mudgudgeon

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Not a rip off product... Rick wasn't the first to do it, and he wont be the last.

What he contributes is taking a lot of your money for a little bit of product, does that mean he's the only one allowed to contribute?

What will you guys think when I drop my supercharger kit before he does... Maybe he'll be ripping me off then...

No one will take issue with you selling a product, but do it right.
If you're gonna make money off the forum pay to be a legit vendor as others do

And sell your product on its own merit without dissing a product that someone else has put in effort developing and fabricating etc
 
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No one will take issue with you selling a product, but do it right.
If you're gonna make money off the forum pay to be a legit vendor as others do

And sell your product on its own merit without dissing a product that someone else has put in effort developing and fabricating etc
I haven't dissed anyone, and I'm just suggesting another option. He can buy what he wants.

I'm not letting you hijack this thread to stand on your idealistic moral highground.
 

mudgudgeon

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What he contributes is taking a lot of your money for a little bit of product, does that mean he's the only one allowed to contribute?

Seriously you've been here five minutes.

And you're talking shït about someone who has been here a long time, and contributed a lot in terms of technical knowledge and providing products that have a good reputation.

What have you contributed?
 
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Seriously you've been here five minutes.

And you're talking shït about someone who has been here a long time, and contributed a lot in terms of technical knowledge and providing products that have a good reputation.

What have you contributed?
If you want to discuss, just Pm me. Let OP keep his thread from you hijacking it. Seriously.
 

eljefe83

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I look forward to hearing what yielded the results. I have what i would describe as a flutter in my idle at randomly.
I've replaced the plugs, wires, dizzy rotor. I do need to replace my charcoal canister as well. I've also adjusted the timing.
*edit, the idle hesitation is very minor, but i notice it.
 
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I look forward to hearing what yielded the results. I have what i would describe as a flutter in my idle at randomly.
I've replaced the plugs, wires, dizzy rotor. I do need to replace my charcoal canister as well. I've also adjusted the timing.
*edit, the idle hesitation is very minor, but i notice it.

Did you use OE wires, or go Blue NGK? I don't know where I fall on that issue.

The PO did all of that 10 years and 60K miles ago, and then refreshed the plugs in 2017, less than 10K miles ago, so I don't think it is my problem, but trying to be as agnostic as possible so I don't make errors in judgement.
 

eljefe83

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Did you use OE wires, or go Blue NGK? I don't know where I fall on that issue.

The PO did all of that 10 years and 60K miles ago, and then refreshed the plugs in 2017, less than 10K miles ago, so I don't think it is my problem, but trying to be as agnostic as possible so I don't make errors in judgement.
I bought all OE.
 
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Over the past couple of days I have replaced/repaired:
  • Swapped the OEM wire clamps for t-clamps on my intake tube
  • fusible links (blue wire was falling apart) - looked ORIGINAL
  • charcoal canister using AC Delco 215/153
  • About 4 feet of rotten vacuum line
The startup/cold idle is very much improved, and when warmed up it is much less pronounced. Gas tank woosh is completely gone.

The 1/4” ID vacuum hose all looked original and was the crustiest. The smaller diameter stuff all looked really good and pliable.

Aside from the charcoal canister and the line on top of the manifold, are there other/hidden sections of 1/4” ID line hiding somewhere?

It seems to return ever so slightly after it has been warmed up and driven to full operating temp.

That leads me to believe there is still a leak in a vacuum circuit, but only one that is opened/activated when the engine is at full operating temp. Any thoughts?

Or, as others have suggested, the MAF is operating at the edge of its tolerances and just isn’t going to give me the glass smooth idle I am seeking.

Feeling more confident though as this was cheap and just an afternoon of wrenching and I’ve already seen a major improvement.
 
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Over the past couple of days I have replaced/repaired:
  • Swapped the OEM wire clamps for t-clamps on my intake tube
  • fusible links (blue wire was falling apart) - looked ORIGINAL
  • charcoal canister using AC Delco 215/153
  • About 4 feet of rotten vacuum line
The startup/cold idle is very much improved, and when warmed up it is much less pronounced. Gas tank woosh is completely gone.

The 1/4” ID vacuum hose all looked original and was the crustiest. The smaller diameter stuff all looked really good and pliable.

Aside from the charcoal canister and the line on top of the manifold, are there other/hidden sections of 1/4” ID line hiding somewhere?

It seems to return ever so slightly after it has been warmed up and driven to full operating temp.

That leads me to believe there is still a leak in a vacuum circuit, but only one that is opened/activated when the engine is at full operating temp. Any thoughts?

Or, as others have suggested, the MAF is operating at the edge of its tolerances and just isn’t going to give me the glass smooth idle I am seeking.

Feeling more confident though as this was cheap and just an afternoon of wrenching and I’ve already seen a major improvement.

Checked timing with the E1/TE1 jumpered - bang on 3° before, just like it says in the service manual. Pulled the jumper and it’s fluctuated between 3-10°.

I guess I can rule out timing.

I did take the distributor cap off to look at the wires and rotor.

How does this look to you all?
512CEF0E-16AB-4BBE-B336-630EB26899D1.jpeg


I haven’t been inside of a distributor cap more than 3 times in the last 10 years so I’m not sure I’m the best assessor.

Running out of things for this to be. Fuel, air, spark, timing, compression.

My testing and examination thus far seem to all but rule out timing and spark. I guess it technically could be a cracked plug or something.
 
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If you have checked everything topside, then it could be sometime inside.
What exactly is the history on the head job? Done by previous owner?
If for any reason the valve buckets with shims were mixed around then the problem is there. The check and correction can be done without removing the head.
Seems like you are very eager to find the source - take a day or two to check the valve clearances. Report back your findings.
 
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If you have checked everything topside, then it could be sometime inside.
What exactly is the history on the head job? Done by previous owner?
If for any reason the valve buckets with shims were mixed around then the problem is there. The check and correction can be done without removing the head.
Seems like you are very eager to find the source - take a day or two to check the valve clearances. Report back your findings.

Done by a shop in 2010, 60K miles ago and I have receipts.

Brand new head, not a rebuild. Almost nothing was re-used.

It would be shocking to me if that’s the case, just because that means it’s been like this since the head work.

I am very eager to find it, but I’m not sure I’m up for taking it that far apart at the moment. I still figuring out how to work on this thing without killing my back.

I’ll go ahead and read the FSM and see if this is a job I’m up for anyhow.
 

mudgudgeon

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Checked timing with the E1/TE1 jumpered - bang on 3° before, just like it says in the service manual. Pulled the jumper and it’s fluctuated between 3-10°.

I guess I can rule out timing.

I did take the distributor cap off to look at the wires and rotor.

How does this look to you all?
View attachment 2557557

I haven’t been inside of a distributor cap more than 3 times in the last 10 years so I’m not sure I’m the best assessor.

Running out of things for this to be. Fuel, air, spark, timing, compression.

My testing and examination thus far seem to all but rule out timing and spark. I guess it technically could be a cracked plug or something.

Look at the end of the brass terminal. If it looks to be eroded and not reasonably smooth even surface, it might be time for a new rotor.
Also check the little button terminals inside the cap. Same deal there, should be flat and smooth. If it has an eroded groove where the rotor terminal sweeps past, time for a new distributor cap.
 

mudgudgeon

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Checked timing with the E1/TE1 jumpered - bang on 3° before, just like it says in the service manual. Pulled the jumper and it’s fluctuated between 3-10°

You can advance the static timing (with E1/TE1 jumpered) quite a bit from this.

I advanced mine to 9-10⁰.
Some 1fz-fe engines won't let you advance it that much without pinging. Some will ping or knock with a few degrees extra advance.

Mine is happy with this much advance.
Mine runs noticably better, pulls a lot harder at low rpm, and generally runs more crisp.
 
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Canyon Lake, TX
Try to do the easiest thing first. Run some injector cleaner through the tank a few times. I like Techron from Walmart. Or BG44k. You may simply have a dirty injector. Also, what MPG are you getting? If it is above 15, I would say screw it, and enjoy your new ride!
 
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Try to do the easiest thing first. Run some injector cleaner through the tank a few times. I like Techron from Walmart. Or BG44k. You may simply have a dirty injector. Also, what MPG are you getting? If it is above 15, I would say screw it, and enjoy your new ride!

I am running my first tank through it at the moment, so I don't have a real good baseline for MPG. I also dumped a bottle of Lucas Injector cleaner in there as well. I am certainly eager to get everything sorted, but I also know I have to get idea of where I am, capture some data, such as fuel/oil consumption, any fluids that need to be topped up, etc.


Look at the end of the brass terminal. If it looks to be eroded and not reasonably smooth even surface, it might be time for a new rotor.
Also check the little button terminals inside the cap. Same deal there, should be flat and smooth. If it has an eroded groove where the rotor terminal sweeps past, time for a new distributor cap.

The end of the brass terminal that sweeps the cap was as rough and as textured as a nail file, and there was a visible mark where the rotor sweeps. It's not deep, but it's there.

Sounds like I am in for a new cap and rotor - how long are those supposed to last? This one is from November 2010, 60K miles ago. 60K miles seems like a short interval.
 

mudgudgeon

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Sounds like I am in for a new cap and rotor - how long are those supposed to last? This one is from November 2010, 60K miles ago. 60K miles seems like a short interval.

60k miles is not bad for a wear item IMO. Toyota major service interval on many things is 100k km, or 60k miles.
The two parts are cheap, and worth having fresh ones in there I think. YMMV

All the little things that are not quite 100% add up and have an impact on things like economy, power, smooth running etc
 
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60k miles is not bad for a wear item IMO. Toyota major service interval on many things is 100k km, or 60k miles.
The two parts are cheap, and worth having fresh ones in there I think. YMMV

All the little things that are not quite 100% add up and have an impact on things like economy, power, smooth running etc

Gotcha! That bit of knowledge on the service intervals is starting to bring everything into focus for me now. She's just due for a little TLC, it sounds like. Not saying that's going to fix everything, but taking care of all of these small service items will certainly put me in better shape.

I had a 1994 for about 16-17 months, but I never did a lick of maintenance on it and it never really needed any, so I just don't have the tribal knowledge to intuitively know what parts are wear items, which parts should be immediately suspected, etc. I beat that truck like a rented mule and kept my other cars "nice."

I added the cap and rotor to my list of miscellaneous parts - PCV kit, brake booster hose/grommet, various clips, gaskets, and the like. Before I go checking valve shims, I am going to eliminate everything outside the valve cover first. I am sort of working my way from driver to passenger side, testing and replacing anything that doesn't look almost new.

$28.70 from TPD for the cap/rotor is cheap piece of mind.
 

mudgudgeon

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Yeah, landcruisers are over built enough that they'll tolerate neglect for a long time, lull you into a false sense of security, then cost you a bomb to fix the neglect when something finally says "Enough!". :lol:
 
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It looks like a lot of you all run an OBDII gauge of some sort to monitor temps and fuel economy, which was already on my long term wish list.

Also, thought it would be a helpful diagnostic tool to have an Ultragauge monitoring my sensor data and calculating MPGs so I could figure out what is really happening in closed loop mode and stop guessing. I really do wonder what my STFT/LTFT data looks like - that should help me narrow down any EFI faults.

Even if it doesn't help with diagnostics, it was less than $100 - cheap insurance about temps going to the moon and cooking my engine before the gauge bothers to move. Been burned in a Volvo by a lazy compensator board - gauge didn't start to move until the coolant was already boiling.
 

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