Builds 1994 FZJ80 5.3l and 4L60e swap

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I just finished replacing the dr44g alternator that came with the 5.3l with an ad244 alternator. It's rated at 145 amps but can deliver closer to 200amps. At idle it puts out 100amps. What a difference! Before the charging system always seemed to struggle when the fans were running and other stuff was on. Now, it doesn't even flinch. I can activate every single electrical and I get about 14.8 volts at the battery and about 14.2 volts at the power supply points to the gm computer. Before it saw about 12.8 volts. Lights are brighter, blower motors run faster, the cooling fans pull more air. All at an engine idle speed in gear at 725 rpm.

Sweet!:bounce2:
 
I just finished replacing the dr44g alternator that came with the 5.3l with an ad244 alternator. It's rated at 145 amps but can deliver closer to 200amps. At idle it puts out 100amps. What a difference! Before the charging system always seemed to struggle when the fans were running and other stuff was on. Now, it doesn't even flinch. I can activate every single electrical and I get about 14.8 volts at the battery and about 14.2 volts at the power supply points to the gm computer. Before it saw about 12.8 volts. Lights are brighter, blower motors run faster, the cooling fans pull more air. All at an engine idle speed in gear at 725 rpm.

Sweet!:bounce2:

Curious on the size of the main alt wire, did you upgrade?
 
Another update: I decided to remove the Lincoln dual electric fans and installed a stock clutch fan. I ordered a universal shroud from summit and installed it as well.

I immediately notice that the engine temp dropped from its usual 197f temp cruising at highway speed down to 193f. This means the motor is now running right at the t-stat opening point which is good. Sitting at a stop light with the AC on, it will creep up and hold at 198f.

I also noticed a decent improvement in AC performance. It now runs at 40f vent temp for the most part. It's not hot here yet, but maybe it will do better than last year. I bought a used condenser fan for a 4runner to install. Just have to fix the mounting tab and wire it up.

Next project is to install the part time kit and order up the trail gear universal tube slider.
 
update on switch to clutch fan.

I added a fan shroud (bought from Summit). Super easy install.

The motor has yet to cross 200f sitting at a stop light with the a/c on max. vent temps are still in the low 40s. high temps in denver have been in the mid 80s but next week we go into the 90s. curious to see how it performs. I get some fan roar when the motor is first started when cold but it quickly fades out in the first mile of driving. I will occasionally hear the fan when the a/c is on and I pull away from a stop light. It seems the fan clutch is set to kick in at 198f engine coolant temp (not sure what the air temp is passing through the radiator). The clutch is very sensitive and just turning on the a/c will raise the air temp just enough to engage the clutch more frequently and keep the a/c vent temp cool.

Just cruising down the highway I see the engine temps go from 190 on a cool morning to 197 in the heat of the day in heavy traffic. Highway speeds usually run at 195.

It used to run 197 to 206, so this has definitely added a margin of safety. plus there is no more big hit to the charging system when those huge electric fans kick in.

just goes to show that its hard to beat a clutch fan set up.

very happy so far!
 
What GM vehicle did the fan clutch come from?
 
Hey, Did you keep you stock gauges?

I'm trying to find someone I can bug about the digital dakota signal converter box for the tach. I can't get mine close. it's like 500rpm or so low.
 
Hey, Did you keep you stock gauges?

I'm trying to find someone I can bug about the digital dakota signal converter box for the tach. I can't get mine close. it's like 500rpm or so low.

I did keep the stock gauges. I don't remember the dakota box settings but the PCM is set to 6 count i believe. I will have to check my program when I get home. I can't remember if I compensated for the 6->8 conversion through the PCM tach output, or by the dakota box. Normally, the PCM puts out a 4 count signal for the v8.
 
I think that the pcm is the issue. It seems right for what the count is off by. I already sent it back to Jon at psi. Should be able to fix it. Thanks!
 
my pcm is set to 6 count. i used the quick set up step for the dakota box and then set it to the amplified mode to get the tach to work. the signal feeds into one of the negative wires that used to connect to the 1fz ignition coil.

the dakota box is not putting out a recalculated signal because the pcm is already sending out a 6 cyl count. the box is only amplifying the signal.
 
Now we install the cast aluminum spacer tube - this serves to allow for a place for the GM VSS to read the tone ring on the output shaft and also to position the 80 t-case in the stock location in relation to the cross member and drive shaft length.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0618.jpg

I had to shorten an allen key so that it would fit to tighten the bolts. I also used red loctite - I do not want these bolts backing out for any reason. I also used some silicon to seal the adapter to the trans case.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0619.jpg

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0620.jpg

Next we install the actual adapter that will eventually accept the 80 t-case. This adapter is a big hunk of machined aluminum. Here you can see the bolts threading in to secure it to the spacer.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0621.jpg

In goes the spud shaft

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0622.jpg

And viola, it's seated in the correct position to mimic the stock A442 that used to drive the t-case.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/coreydaspit/IMG_0623.jpg

Not sure if this was answered but I didn't find it. When the tail shaft was removed from the tranny, did any bearings or seals come out with it? If so, were they put back with the AA adapters?
 
Not sure if this was answered but I didn't find it. When the tail shaft was removed from the tranny, did any bearings or seals come out with it? If so, were they put back with the AA adapters?

The tail shaft isnt removed. Its shortened while still in place. Only the 2wd tail housing is removed and it's replaced by the marks adapter housing.

Marks specifies a 2wd transmission. If you get a 4wd then the trans has to be totally disassembled and a 2wd tail shaft swapped in.
 
The tail shaft isnt removed. Its shortened while still in place. Only the 2wd tail housing is removed and it's replaced by the marks adapter housing.

Marks specifies a 2wd transmission. If you get a 4wd then the trans has to be totally disassembled and a 2wd tail shaft swapped in.

Sorry, I used the wrong wording. So, does the tail housing have any bearings or seals that get removed?
 
Any pics of the shroud?
 
Sorry, I used the wrong wording. So, does the tail housing have any bearings or seals that get removed?

Nope. It simply gets unbolted from the main case and tossed. The marks adapter completely replaces it.

There is a bushing inside the gm tail housing that supports the slip yoke and also a seal, but that's it.
 
Any pics of the shroud?

I didn't remember to take any. It was an easy install though. The hardest part is finding the center point and then cutting the hole. I used an air nibbler to make the cuts after marking the curved line. The summit shroud is a perfect fit for the core.

I have yet to see temps higher than 200f with the AC on and sitting at a light. The gm clutch fan is aggressive and has a very tight engagement point. At 198 I can hear the fan pulling air and at 197 it quiets down. It's sensitive enough to react to the AC being on and the hotter air coming off the condenser and moving through the radiator core. I fully recommend going with the clutch fan. The only negative is that it cost me about 1mpg, but i am hoping that was offset with the part time conversion.
 

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