Builds 1994 FZJ80 5.3l and 4L60e swap (2 Viewers)

[rockrod]

update:

Radiator sprung a leak this morning on the way into work. Seems to be leaking in the middle of the core on the grill side - I think a rock was thrown up from a vehicle in front of me.... bad luck I suppose.

I also order a Denso supra twin turbo fuel pump. The walbro pump I installed is stupid loud. I have run walbo pumps before with similar noise issues and I am kicking myself for having installed a walbro in the cruiser. From what I have read, the supra pump is whisper quiet and will provide the PSI needed for the vortec motor. I plan on swapping it out next week once the pump arrives.

Other than that, the cruiser has been daily driven now for the last few weeks with few issues. It runs about 197 degrees on average and has been averaging about 15 mpg. Power is great! IMO, all 80s should have come with a V8 from the factory. It's a real joy to drive and was well worth the work and investment.

Still have quite the punch list of items to finish up but it will get there. It's my only driver now so I have to time the work to be done on the weekends.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Radiator leaking!

Sounds like even with all the power and great MPG its turning into a POS.

Save yourself and PM me for a quick sale





Yes the Supra pump is indeed very quiet. Many SC guys run the same pump and best of all its made by Toyota.

 

[Booyahz]

First off, this thread ROCKS! What an awesome build!

I'm looking at getting a 80 series to replace my lifted 4Runner in the near future, but want to put a V8 in there with the same goals of having that extra power--especially for that mountain driving we get to do here in Colorado. However, I'm prety partial to manual transmissions.

What kind of challenges would one be facing if instead of using the 4L60e automatic transmission with a Chevy V8 you use the AR5/MA5 or NV3500/4500 (can't remember difference) or like standard transmissions?

Lastly, not being such an awesome guru mechanic like yourself, if I brought a 80LC, engine and all parts needed, could I pay you to do the swap for me?

 

[rockrod]

First off, this thread ROCKS! What an awesome build!

I'm looking at getting a 80 series to replace my lifted 4Runner in the near future, but want to put a V8 in there with the same goals of having that extra power--especially for that mountain driving we get to do here in Colorado. However, I'm prety partial to manual transmissions.

What kind of challenges would one be facing if instead of using the 4L60e automatic transmission with a Chevy V8 you use the AR5/MA5 or NV3500/4500 (can't remember difference) or like standard transmissions?

Lastly, not being such an awesome guru mechanic like yourself, if I brought a 80LC, engine and all parts needed, could I pay you to do the swap for me?

I don't know of anyone who has tried to swap a vortec and manual trans into an 80. I suppose it's possible, but the clutch pedal retrofit would be a challenge. Those parts would have to come from an outside US source.

If you are not married to the stock FT t-case, then a NV4500 and an Orion t-case would rock. Put an LQ4 or LQ9 and go shred some tires.

I could do the work, but I work slow. I also have to hold down a FT job and raise 4 kids (three are them are the same age, ie triplets).

 

[rockrod]

Well - I got done with work early this afternoon and decided to race home and get some stuff done (well, at least started).

First, I replaced the rear hatch struts per the thread in this forum. Piece of cake and took all of 30 mins to do. I wish all mods were that easy. Now the hatch opens with gusto and could be used as a great pie tosser. The extra height is nice - I am 6ft tall and I no longer have to worry about smacking my head on the low hanging hatch.

I pulled the radiator and found the pin hole - something hit it. I ran it down to the local radiator shop and they brazed it. Tested and good to go.

I also pulled the entire exhaust I built previously. It only had a single cat and was still running the stock muffler. I am making it a dual cat system and will run a crossover behind the t-case, then dump that into a 3 chamber flowmaster, and then out the back. I will probably add a small glasspack style muffler to help keep it quiet.

 

[warpdriv]

I also pulled the entire exhaust I built previously. It only had a single cat and was still running the stock muffler. I am making it a dual cat system and will run a crossover behind the t-case, then dump that into a 3 chamber flowmaster, and then out the back. I will probably add a small glasspack style muffler to help keep it quiet.

Please post some pics. I'm going to cut mine off and redo it too. Tks.

 

[Mr.Bryan]

Yea, any updates on that exhaust? I'm quickly approaching building mine and would love to steal some ideas if they're out there.

 

[rockrod]

I put these pics of the exhaust in Warpdrive's thread:

still fighting some leaks because I can't get my welder tip in some spots. I will probably have to run it by a muffler shop so that they can put it on the lift. I just can't get my body to bend in the needed ways to get a good weld.

The flowmaster is not much louder than stock.

 

[rockrod]

Yes the Supra pump is indeed very quiet. Many SC guys run the same pump and best of all its made by Toyota.

wow! what a difference. I cannot even hear the supra pump running. It really is as quiet as everyone says it is. I also gain a little top end power. I suspect that POS walbro pump wasn't doing it's job, and it was extremely noisy to boot. in the trash can with that walbro pump.

 

[CrashAF]

Did you attempt or are you planning to attempt to get the cruise control working? I've got a 96 FZJ with a tired motor and I'm considering the same swap.

Nice job

 

[Mr.Bryan]

wow! what a difference. I cannot even hear the supra pump running. It really is as quiet as everyone says it is. I also gain a little top end power. I suspect that POS walbro pump wasn't doing it's job, and it was extremely noisy to boot. in the trash can with that walbro pump.

Thanks for the pictures!

Where did you pick up your supra pump? And may I ask how much you paid?

I'm trying to have this running by the end of the month.

Also, you mentioned you had a fuel tank pressure sensor? Is that something that the 80 needs to see? that's new to me...

 

[rockrod]

Did you attempt or are you planning to attempt to get the cruise control working? I've got a 96 FZJ with a tired motor and I'm considering the same swap.

Nice job

if you get a drive by wire motor, it's super easy to get the cruise working with some simple momentary on push button switches. The drive by cable motors will need the cruise servo motor assembly from the donor to make it work.

The cruise control stalk from the 80 will not work for either method. It functions in a manner that is not compatible with the vortec PCM. I will pick a discreet area to install the switches and wire it up later on.

 

[rockrod]

Thanks for the pictures!

Where did you pick up your supra pump? And may I ask how much you paid?

I'm trying to have this running by the end of the month.

Also, you mentioned you had a fuel tank pressure sensor? Is that something that the 80 needs to see? that's new to me...

I got the pump from Amazon It was about $220 delivered. Part number is 950-0155. It's worth every penny and easily adapts to the cruiser pump hanger. I used a hose clamp to secure it to the hanger.

The fuel tank pressure sensor and fuel tank level are inputs needed by the vortec pcm as part of the EVAP system. Colorado does not require these specific functions to be operational with the swap because the 80 series was not designed to have a fuel tank under pressure. They do want the EVAP purge and EVAP vent solenoids working, along with an EVAP (charcoal) canister. I am using off the shelf parts for a silverado truck (bought based on what my donor engine came from).

The pressure and fuel level inputs are simply not hooked up and the DTCs that are set by this are turned off by the tuning software so that the CEL does not turn on from this.

So basically, to pass emissions in Denver I have to have the two catalytic converters, an EVAP canister, the EVAP vent solenoid and the EVAP purge solenoids working. I also have to have all 4 O2 sensors in place and functioning per the OEM design. They told me to put the cats about 12-15 inches down stream of the header collectors, and said that they have no problem with the shorty headers.

 

[Mr.Bryan]

you need something along the lines of a Walbro GL392 or retrofit a factory gm pump. You also have to bypass the toyota relay because it's a two stage design with a low voltage and high voltage arrangement based on throttle position.

How do you bypass the relay? I've been searching all over and can't find out how to bypass it on a permenant basis, only for diagnostic purposes.

 

[Mr.Bryan]

I got the pump from Amazon It was about $220 delivered. Part number is 950-0155. It's worth every penny and easily adapts to the cruiser pump hanger. I used a hose clamp to secure it to the hanger.

The fuel tank pressure sensor and fuel tank level are inputs needed by the vortec pcm as part of the EVAP system. Colorado does not require these specific functions to be operational with the swap because the 80 series was not designed to have a fuel tank under pressure. They do want the EVAP purge and EVAP vent solenoids working, along with an EVAP (charcoal) canister. I am using off the shelf parts for a silverado truck (bought based on what my donor engine came from).

The pressure and fuel level inputs are simply not hooked up and the DTCs that are set by this are turned off by the tuning software so that the CEL does not turn on from this.

So basically, to pass emissions in Denver I have to have the two catalytic converters, an EVAP canister, the EVAP vent solenoid and the EVAP purge solenoids working. I also have to have all 4 O2 sensors in place and functioning per the OEM design. They told me to put the cats about 12-15 inches down stream of the header collectors, and said that they have no problem with the shorty headers.

Cool. Thanks for the info!

I don't have to comply with emmissions in IL because i'm a 1995 so I'm assuming I don't need any of that pressure sensors.

I'll go for the supra pump over the walbro as well. Makes sense to a toyota guy.

 

[kipper]

first video. Excuse the shaky camera action. I was trying to do this with my iphone

0mph to about 80 and I let off. The motor was pinging a little. I am running 85 octane at the moment. It doesn't ping with 87.

1994 Toyota Land Cruiser with Vortec L33 5.3l V8 - YouTube

OMG. That is something that can't be unseen. Must. Have.

 

[rockrod]

How do you bypass the relay? I've been searching all over and can't find out how to bypass it on a permenant basis, only for diagnostic purposes.

when you remove the rear seats to get to the fuel pump, you will also fins the harness that feeds power to the fuel sender running along the floor. I used the handy dandy EWD to locate the correct wire that feeds power and cut/spliced a new power feed into it. You will be using a new fuel pump relay that is triggered by the vortec PCM so I ran the new wire to it and bypassed the stock relay completely. It seemed easier to do this rather than trying to get the toyota relay working with the vortec PCM and having to deal with that voltage reducing gizmo toyota put in there to reduce voltage to the pump under low power situations. The vortec motor needs 60 psi all the time.

Oddly, when you locate the fuel sender harness, it has a plug that pokes out under the rocker that would send power to the sub tank harness.....you know, if you ever decided to install one

 

[rockrod]

Cool. Thanks for the info!

I don't have to comply with emmissions in IL because i'm a 1995 so I'm assuming I don't need any of that pressure sensors.

I'll go for the supra pump over the walbro as well. Makes sense to a toyota guy.

you got it easy then

 

[rockrod]

OMG. That is something that can't be unseen. Must. Have.

thanks! It's certainly faster than stock. I am also running stock 4.10s and 315s and even then, it still faster than stock.

It's also faster than your typical lifted/big tired 4 door JK The dude who decided to race me down parker rd lost in a big way. he gave up pretty quick.

 

[Mr.Bryan]

when you remove the rear seats to get to the fuel pump, you will also fins the harness that feeds power to the fuel sender running along the floor. I used the handy dandy EWD to locate the correct wire that feeds power and cut/spliced a new power feed into it. You will be using a new fuel pump relay that is triggered by the vortec PCM so I ran the new wire to it and bypassed the stock relay completely. It seemed easier to do this rather than trying to get the toyota relay working with the vortec PCM and having to deal with that voltage reducing gizmo toyota put in there to reduce voltage to the pump under low power situations. The vortec motor needs 60 psi all the time.

Oddly, when you locate the fuel sender harness, it has a plug that pokes out under the rocker that would send power to the sub tank harness.....you know, if you ever decided to install one

Thanks dude. Much appreciated. Crazy trying to figure all these bits out.