1994 FJZ80 getting 5.3L & 4l60

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The all new GM f body pan, gasket, dip stick, dip stick tube, pick up, windage tray, all new o-rings and bolts came in today. Along with the improved racing baffle. I know people have reported oiling problems with going to an f body pan and climbing water falls and steep ledges. I read up quite a bit and couldn't find any problems with guys running this baffle. Including on non - race buggies. So I figured it is cheap insurance. I tried to buy a used pan kit on eBay but they kept going for around $280. Then another $200 for the baffle. So for the extra $50 I got a new gasket and all new parts.
 
Forgot the pic of the stock setup
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Here is the difference in the two baffles. The stock one has a lip around the front and is ramped down towards the hole where the pickup tube is. The improved racing has the 3 trap doors, slits in the top for oil drain back along with some fins to help also.
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Here is the baffle installed. Nice fit and finish. I didn't have to mess with it at all to get the bolts to go in. Torqued to 106inlbs and will hopefully have it installed this weekend.
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Here is the stealth Conversions steam port adapter. I like these for a few reasons. They are only $33 shipped, comes with the steam port and a drain valve. They also make conversion adapters with different sizes on each side if it's needed. I like this option also because it puts the steam port at the top of the system where it's supposed to be instead of down low like drilling the water pump. Also if I lose a water pump in Moab I can just change it, no need to figure out how to get it drilled and tapped.

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Made some great progress today. Got the motor mounts welded in! I used the advance adapters universal ls mounts and I think they worked out great. I cut the engine side down so they would fit between the frame rails. Then had to cut them down some more because I flipped the frame side upside down. I did that because I had the engine sitting nice and low and I could get more area to weld on the frame mount upside down. It was really close from frame rail to rail so I pushed it to the passenger side which left a 1/8" gap between the mount and drivers frame rail. Instead of enlarging the engine mount hole, I made a plate that I spot welded to the back of the mount. Pulled the engine back out and got them welded in solid. I'm going to add a guesset to the top of the mount still. I also clearanced the firewall on the passenger side. I have it sitting low enough that the a/c lines mount is only 3/8" at most off the frame rail. If these mounts flex side to side much I might have to notch the frame a little. The power steering clears great on the other side. I had to bend the lines around a little but not a big deal.
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Got some more done today. I pulled the old fuel pump assembly out and modified it to accept the supra pump. I had to notch out the bottom a little and I ran some new wires. I also put a hose clamp on it for good measure. Also I moved the return line so it didn't point at the intake filter /sock. I'm not sure if it's a problem on these but it has been for me in past. The return pointed right at the intake and would start aerating the intake fuel when the tank was low. I also got the fitting in from 034 motorsports for the fuel line. It converts the stock supply line from 14mm inverted flare to -6AN fitting so it's easy to work with. It fits great, makes life easy for fuel supply!
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I rerouted the gas tank vent (charcoal canister) line today. I reused the stock lines and brought it up to a vent in the insert in the gas cap door. There was already a little circle on the back side like it was supposed to have something there. I just drilled it out and put one of the little breathers on it.
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I need to do this to my 92 80. So... following closely! Please continue.
 
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Got the motor set in place for hopefully the last time. I ended up flipping the frame side motor mounts so I could set the engine down in farther and still have plenty of Mount to weld to. Second pic is how close the power steering pump is to the gear box. Onto shift cable and wiring!
 
Got my power steering pressure line built. Ended up using a russell 620401 & 620411 straight and a 45* to get it routed nicely.

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