1992 Help with Rear Brake Drum Removal

[pizzajohn]

Hey everyone! I am trying to replace the shoes on my rear drum brakes (1992, non-ABS) and I have taken off the wheels and I am left with this picture. I have googled and searched through these forums and cannot find a way to remove the outer drum piece. I sprayed PB blaster on it to see if it would loosen and I tapped it all with a rubber mallet, with no luck. In other videos and pictures I have seen screws to take out, but I don't have those. Any help or link would be appreciated!

 

[BILT4ME]

Is your parking brake released?

The drum is not stuck to the hub, I can tell because of the air gap at the center hub and the clearances around the studs.

You may actually have to go to the backing plate and use a screwdriver or a brake tool to back off the star adjuster inside to release the shoes from the groove in the in the brake drum.

The drum should then just slip off the outside.

 

[jonheld]

On the bottom of the backing plate there is a rubber plug that covers the access hole for the brake adjusters. You need to adjust the star wheel to loosen the shoes that are binding on the outer edge of the drum. A flatblade screwdriver works well.
All of this information and more is in the Toyota factory service manual.

 

[paulzak]

A ridge forms on the drum which makes it necessary to back off the adjuster. You may need to hold aside the sheet metal piece inside the slot to back it off. The whole thing is simple but frustrating the first time..

 

[pizzajohn]

Thank you everyone for the responses. This has helped so much to this point, I think I am making progress. I think I understand now. If I insert a flathead screwdriver into the slot about 80% towards the back of the vehicle, I find the star nut. It is easy to tighten, but in order to loosen it, I need to inset another screwdriver all the way to the back at the same time and press on the mechanism that keeps the star nut from loosening. Then use the flathead to spin the other direction. Does this sound right?

When I spin the brake drum the other side spins as well because I have the whole back end jacked up (should I have one tire on the ground when I do this? Or should that not matter?)

Someone had sent me a PDF of the service manual, but it has nothing about doing the brakes in it. Maybe it is not the right manual.

 

[Teebo]

 

[Teebo]

 

[Wompom]

You also do have two threaded holes on there (1:30 & 7:30 locations, approx.) to use bolts to push the drum off, though I wouldn't use them.

Shouldn't matter that both are in the air.

Highly recommend you go to the free FSM download page you can search for "trollhole FSM one hell of a price" or something along those lines and read the procedure.

 

[Teebo]

Adjusting one side doesn't affect the other so you don't need one on the ground. The pictures I posted are from the 1992 FSM. Hope that helps.

 

[pizzajohn]

Thank you all so much for the help, I have successfully learned to tighten and loosen that screw inside. The picture helped a ton! When I have it tightened, the drum does not rotate at all and when I have it totally loosened the drum rotates freely.

Now that I have the drum moving freely, are there any other tips on getting it off? I am pulling outward and it does not budge. I did read that I can use the screw holes to 'push it off', but I also heard that is not a good idea. Any other approach would be appreciated, but if I do have to use those screw holes, does anyone know the size bolt I need?

Thank you again, you guys rock!

 

[pizzajohn]

I uploaded a video to youtube of how free it spins.

 

[Wompom]

You could try the two bolts.
Just take it easy. Shouldn't take much to pop it off.
I want to say they're M6 but can't recall. I just usually grab my tray of random bolts and find two that work.
Evenly turn the two bolts in a turn or so at a time. Should just pop after a bit of tension.

 

[TossYoda]

Otramm has a great video that might be helpful.
His youtube video channel is here: OTRAMM
This specific one might help:
He also has other near desired topic ones.
Around 4:18 mark he says thread bolts into the thread holes and use those to help pull it off.

 

[Cruiserjay]

Bolt size to remove the rear drum are M8x30mm, pitch 1.25. Go easy using this method and back off the star adjuster. If done correctly it works like a charm.

 

[proteolytic]

Maybe try a metal linear persuasion tool? The rubber mallet may be too light and will give a bit when you hit the drum. I took off my drums earlier this summer with a beefy hammer which was enough for them to slide a little off for me to pull by hand afterwards. The drums weren't rusted on or anything just in a good snug spot.

 

[Alleycats]

Hey I've done this myself, for me I just wacked it with a 2x4 or maybe a heavy mallet and then it just pulled right off. The only thing securing the drum on there is the lug nuts.

 

[pizzajohn]

Thank you all so much! I got it off! I used the method where I used the M8(pitch 1.25) bolts and it worked great. I threaded them in evenly and slowly and it popped right off.

I really appreciate the help!

And thanks for the info on where to find the FSM. I downloaded mine and there is still nothing about brakes. Maybe I just need to use the others years for reference. For anyone interested, the link mentioned above is here:

For Sale - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[jonheld]

And thanks for the info on where to find the FSM. I downloaded mine and there is still nothing about brakes. Maybe I just need to use the others years for reference. For anyone interested, the link mentioned above is here:

For Sale - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.

forum.ih8mud.com

If you want the complete FSM for 1991, follow the link in my signature. It is not free, but it is very complete and has lots of other tasty tidbits that you won't find anywhere else.