1991 FJ80 or 1994 80 with lockers

[lt1fire]

I'm thinking like you on this. Plus the milage issue. It seems that a 94 will cost me at least $2000 more with twice the miles on the odo, or it will cost twice as much with the same miles.. The 91 is looking better.. Do I really need to swap to a full floater? My 4runner had a semi floating and it was acceptable.. Hmmm

no don't need to swap at all .... wait till... if it breaks then replace it

 

[CappyKD]

I think I just engaged the lockers incorrectly.. Someone with a factory locked rig please chime in.

Thanks,
Kirk

 

[CappyKD]

Help! blinking light means no lockers huh? how are you supposed to engage them?

Thanks,
Kirk

 

[CappyKD]

ahh so blinking means trying to engage.. hmmm I need to drive the 94 again.. problem is that it is all asphault where it is for sale. I'm not sure how to test the lockers correctly without gravel.

 

[ginericLC]

Some advantages to the '91 & '92... The front console cup holder is usable for 16 oz drink glasses popular at fast food outlets. (In a '96 they only fit cans.) The dash clock has an alarm and countdown timer. It is dumbed down on the later models. The manual cloth seats in the earlier models are a better fit for my big butt and offer more leg room.

All these options are available in 93 an 94, 93 even had the R12 AC. Plus ABS! Plus rear disc brakes. And nicer cloth than the 91/92.

I've owned both. Note I still have the FZJ80. The brakes are huge deal especially when you add 35" tires. Lockers are going to run you $18-1900 by the time you lock front and rear. You may as well spend the extra money and buy an FZJ80 with lockers. I made the mistake of buying a 91 without lockers and then went to a 94 without lockers. I'd never do that again.

 

[CappyKD]

All these options are available in 93 an 94, 93 even had the R12 AC. Plus ABS! Plus rear disc brakes. And nicer cloth than the 91/92.

I've owned both. Note I still have the FZJ80. The brakes are huge deal especially when you add 35" tires. Lockers are going to run you $18-1900 by the time you lock front and rear. You may as well spend the extra money and buy an FZJ80 with lockers. I made the mistake of buying a 91 without lockers and then went to a 94 without lockers. I'd never do that again.

Thanks! I appreciate all of the advice.. If the lockers work on the 94 then I'm gonna get that.

 

[Beowulf]

ahh so blinking means trying to engage.. hmmm I need to drive the 94 again.. problem is that it is all asphault where it is for sale. I'm not sure how to test the lockers correctly without gravel.

If it has the F&R locker option then don't worry about making them work on a test drive. They tend to be "sticky" when dormant for 13 years and a SOCAL truck won't have internal rust issues. If it were me, I would let the lights blink and use that as a negotiation with the seller.

Properly testing requires a low traction surface and turning in an arc or figure 8. You have to be in low range and less than 5mph for the ECU to attempt to engage. The center has to lock first, then the F&R will attempt to lock. Flashing lights means it is trying to lock. Solid lights means each has locked.

Full testing procedures have been posted dozens of times.

-B-

 

[Elijah]

If it has the F&R locker option then don't worry about making them work on a test drive. They tend to be "sticky" when dormant for 13 years and a SOCAL truck won't have internal rust issues. If it were me, I would let the lights blink and use that as a negotiation with the seller.

Properly testing requires a low traction surface and turning in an arc or figure 8. You have to be in low range and less than 5mph for the ECU to attempt to engage. The center has to lock first, then the F&R will attempt to lock. Flashing lights means it is trying to lock. Solid lights means each has locked.

Full testing procedures have been posted dozens of times.

-B-

Great advice Beowulf. x2 on purchasing the '94 over the '91 also.

 

[CappyKD]

If it has the F&R locker option then don't worry about making them work on a test drive. They tend to be "sticky" when dormant for 13 years and a SOCAL truck won't have internal rust issues. If it were me, I would let the lights blink and use that as a negotiation with the seller.

Properly testing requires a low traction surface and turning in an arc or figure 8. You have to be in low range and less than 5mph for the ECU to attempt to engage. The center has to lock first, then the F&R will attempt to lock. Flashing lights means it is trying to lock. Solid lights means each has locked.

Full testing procedures have been posted dozens of times.

-B-

Thanks alot for the advice. I just found testing procedures and printed them out. I'm gonna drive it again either tomorrow or this weekend and do exactly what you suggested, I'm gonna let them blink and use them to negotiate.. The LC also needs a iacv or idle speed control so I'm hopeful that I can get the 94 for $4900, I already had him to $5500 but that was a starting point based on no mechanical issues. Thanks again for all the advice everyone. I hope to see some of you on the trail soon. ;p

 

[roncruiser]

You'll be happy with the 1994. Feel free to PM WHEN you purchase it I'll be happy to give you any help that I can Check out my sig. We're in the same boat. (Pre)-Welcome to the 1994 Landcruiser Club.

 

[CappyKD]

You'll be happy with the 1994. Feel free to PM WHEN you purchase it I'll be happy to give you any help that I can

Thanks. I appreciate it. It will be about a week or two before i can purchase. I'mm post up an update once I do.

Kirk

 

[Beowulf]

The LC also needs a iacv or idle speed control ...

Be sure these need to be replaced before you start throwing parts at it. These are spendy and we have not seen many of these 2 parts failing; some, but not a lot.

-B-

 

[CappyKD]

Be sure these need to be replaced before you start throwing parts at it. These are spendy and we have not seen many of these 2 parts failing; some, but not a lot.

-B-

It has an issues where when idling the idle drops to a really low rpm and almost stalls but catches itself. The mechanic who has serviced the truck for 200k miles said it needs it but I'm open to other suggestions, I'm going to use this and the blinking lights to help get the price down..

 

[Beowulf]

Sounds more like a cracked intake hose to me.

-B-

 

[CappyKD]

Sounds more like a cracked intake hose to me.

-B-

Is that the symptom for the cracked hose? Is that the intake hose between the throttle body and the air cleaner? WHat does the crack mess with the MAF/MAP?

 

[fjfar80]

I would go with the '94 solely based on the fact that you are looking for a family hauler...I have a '97 and would not trade it for the world. I also believe that you should buy the best you can afford at the time and if you can afford the '94...then get it. You can do anything that you want to it at a later date...all Cruisers are great trucks...you just have to decide which one you want...they will both last forever if properly cared for. I'll probably get killed for this one but, newer Land Cruisers tend to be better technologically...that is why they come out with new models.

 

[CappyKD]

The 94 is really seeming like the way to go.. especially if I can get the price I want.. Thanks again all..

 

[Lka1988]

Is that the symptom for the cracked hose? Is that the intake hose between the throttle body and the air cleaner? WHat does the crack mess with the MAF/MAP?

Yes. No.

The cracked intake hose causes a vacuum leak, leading to a funky idle. I'm not sure how that plays out, as I'm just a guy on mechanical stuff.

My intake hose ripped wide open a while back... I just went to the local Autozone and got a cold-air intake elbow from the ricer section... 20* IIRC. It looks pretty good, I'll get a pic for ya if you want.

 

[sundaypunch]

The 94 is really seeming like the way to go.. especially if I can get the price I want.. Thanks again all..

Yep, and now go drive that '91 and make it even more obvious....

 

[CappyKD]

Yes. No.

The cracked intake hose causes a vacuum leak, leading to a funky idle. I'm not sure how that plays out, as I'm just a guy on mechanical stuff.

My intake hose ripped wide open a while back... I just went to the local Autozone and got a cold-air intake elbow from the ricer section... 20* IIRC. It looks pretty good, I'll get a pic for ya if you want.

Thanks for the reply, yes I'd like to see a pic.

Thanks