1990 1HD-T Baseline? (1 Viewer)

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Dec 10, 2021
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Location
Florida
I have my 2nd 80 series I've owned on the way to be delivered, this one with a 1HD-T and only 64k miles on the clock. I had no real experience or confidence to do anything besides oil changes or lift kits before I touched my last FZJ80. But after going through the Comprehensive Baseline thread, I've gotten comfortable and confident in wrenching myself instead of sending it to a shop.

As the first diesel I've ever touched, what kind of things should I be looking for besides the typical fluids, hoses, the soup etc. Asking more for the diesel specific(?) side of things to look for (aneroid pin, injectors, IP..). It seems like EGT is step #1 before all.

Also wondering as I search for more power when I start adding gear, what would be the proper order of installing parts if I ordered 1 by 1: gturbo, intercooler, injectors, IP? What order would cause the least bottleneck effect on the performance of the rig?



For my own reference of possible plans, but if it helps anyone else:
FLUIDS:
OIL: SAE 10W-40, 9.3L (API CF/4 or ACEA: A3/B4)

TRANS(Auto): ATF 6L (Dextron ll, lll, Type 4 (T-IV))

TRANSFER: SAE 75W-90, 1.4L (API GL-4 or 5)

FRONT AXLE:
W/ Lock: SAE 75W-90, 2.7L (APL GL-4 or 5)
W/O Lock: SAE 75W-90, 2.8L (APL GL-4 or 5)

REAR AXLE:
W/ Lock/Standard: SAE 75W-90, 3.25L (APL GL-4 or 5)
LSD: Hypoy LSD 90, 3.25L (LSD API GL5 or 6)

POWER STEERING: DEX ll/lll, 0.8L

COOLANT: Toyota or Aisin, 12L (RED or BLUE)

BRAKES: SAE J1703/4, 1.2L (DOT 3 or 4)

AIR CON REFRIGERANT:
W/O Rear: R12, 850 +/- 50 gms
W/ Rear: R12, 1300-1400 gms



FILTERS:
Oil Filter: 90915-30002/90915-03006 or 15600-41010
Fuel Filter: 23303-64010
Air Filter: 17801-61030/17801-68030
Amazon product ASIN B004C63FMI


BELTS:
Fan/Alternator: 9091602452



TIMING BELT/WATER PUMP:
Timing Belt: 13568-19065
Idler Pulley: 13505-17011
Spring Tensioner: 90507-27003
Camshaft Seal: 90311-32020
Aisin Waterpump: 16100-19235



MISC:
Timing Cover Gasket : 11328-17010
Valve Cover Gasket: 11213-17010
Glow Plug Assembly: 19850-64031
Thermostat: 90916-03089
Fan Clutch Assembly:
 
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other than the basics you listed above for base line i’d suggest timing belt and water pump if you don’t have a clear timeline on when last done. valve adjustment is a good idea. have the big end bearings been done? all these things are relatively easy to do and are well documented on mud and in an fsm. if i can do them you can do them!!

for performance yes egt is a must. make sure it’s pre turbo for the most accurate numbers. then it’s a matter of increasing boost and fuel. an intercooler will allow you to increase both with lower temps. so that might be a place you want to start. i went intercooler then turbo then pump tune to match. i am still trying to dial it back in after a pump build. i may got with a profiled aneroid pin yet but try to maximize what you’ve got to see if your happy you can always add more stuff as you go!

i guess if you haven’t had injectors built in the last 100000 km you probably want to do that.

those are my suggestions only. good luck and post loads of pics!
 
Also wondering as I search for more power when I start adding gear, what would be the proper order of installing parts if I ordered 1 by 1: gturbo, intercooler, injectors, IP(?). What order would cause the least bottleneck effect on the performance of the rig?

3" full flow dump pipe and exhaust. Single biggest impact on performance potential.

Then EGT Gauge. To get a baseline on current tune, or as you tune.
Boost gauge for tuning purposes.

Then turbo & intercooler.
Then, fresh/rebuilt injectors .
The Injection pump, tune as desired. It's a big ticket item. Upgrade/refresh should only be necessary through wear and tear on a high mile engine, or if you're chasing big power increases.

Definitely do Timing belt, idler pulley and tensioner unless absolutely clear when it was done.

New fuel filters, air filter.

Coolant flush and refresh. Check thermostat operates per spec.

Check fan hub clutch is 100% functional.

Do some reading on BEB replacement. Decide if you want to do oil analysis, swap the BEBs, or roll with them as is
 
other than the basics you listed above for base line i’d suggest timing belt and water pump if you don’t have a clear timeline on when last done. valve adjustment is a good idea. have the big end bearings been done? all these things are relatively easy to do and are well documented on mud and in an fsm. if i can do them you can do them!!

for performance yes egt is a must. make sure it’s pre turbo for the most accurate numbers. then it’s a matter of increasing boost and fuel. an intercooler will allow you to increase both with lower temps. so that might be a place you want to start. i went intercooler then turbo then pump tune to match. i am still trying to dial it back in after a pump build. i may got with a profiled aneroid pin yet but try to maximize what you’ve got to see if your happy you can always add more stuff as you go!

i guess if you haven’t had injectors built in the last 100000 km you probably want to do that.

those are my suggestions only. good luck and post loads of pics!
I updated the post as I forgot to mention, she's only 64k miles in haha. I'm still planning on checking the timing belt, injectors, etc anyways to get an idea of the condition.
 
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3" full flow dump pipe and exhaust. Single biggest impact on performance potential.

Then EGT Gauge. To get a baseline on current tune, or as you tune.
Boost gauge for tuning purposes.

Then turbo & intercooler.
Then, fresh/rebuilt injectors .
The Injection pump, tune as desired. It's a big ticket item. Upgrade/refresh should only be necessary through wear and tear on a high mile engine, or if you're chasing big power increases.

Definitely do Timing belt, idler pulley and tensioner unless absolutely clear when it was done.

New fuel filters, air filter.

Coolant flush and refresh. Check thermostat operates per spec.

Check fan hub clutch is 100% functional.

Do some reading on BEB replacement. Decide if you want to do oil analysis, swap the BEBs, or roll with them as is
I'll have to give the exhaust a look I know it's aftermarket, it'll be nice if that check box is already done.

Everything else seems straight forward and familiar as well, I appreciate it!
 
I have also been entertaining the idea of a 1HD-FTE swap. Given the chance of moving up to the FTE and selling the 1HD-T within a good $ margin, in my head it sounds like a pretty cost effective move. Only issue has been sourcing a US supplier/shop that has one.

I'm open to any opinions on this. Again, my idea of the swap being to get more power from a fully built and weighed down rig.
 
Lots of good info here. Not to hi-jack this thread, but I'm about to be in possession of my first 1HDT, and I had a question along these lines that I did not want to start a whole new thread for. Is the 1HDT an interference motor? I'm presuming it is, but I just wanted to confirm.
 
I have also been entertaining the idea of a 1HD-FTE swap. Given the chance of moving up to the FTE and selling the 1HD-T within a good $ margin, in my head it sounds like a pretty cost effective move. Only issue has been sourcing a US supplier/shop that has one.

I'm open to any opinions on this. Again, my idea of the swap being to get more power from a fully built and weighed down rig.

I mean, if you hate money, go for it :rofl:

I 1hd-t with exhaust, and more boost and tuned fuel pump is no slouch. They make loads of torque and power and can be a blast to drive.

Add an aftermarket turbo, intercooler etc, they make some pretty solid numbers.

Can a HD-FTE do better? Definitely.

Would I swap a good HD-T out for a HD-FTE? Not a chance.

If the HD-T crapped the bed, then maybe
 
Lots of good info here. Not to hi-jack this thread, but I'm about to be in possession of my first 1HDT, and I had a question along these lines that I did not want to start a whole new thread for. Is the 1HDT an interference motor? I'm presuming it is, but I just wanted to confirm.
Yes, interference motor. Makes timing belt changes critical maintenance
 
Most of those parts can be bought from partsouq for less.

The air filter can be bought at the Toyota dealer locally for less.
Unlike most timing belt jobs, the water pump isn't part of it. Unless you have an issue with the water pump, I'd leave it alone.
 
Most of those parts can be bought from partsouq for less.

The air filter can be bought at the Toyota dealer locally for less.
Unlike most timing belt jobs, the water pump isn't part of it. Unless you have an issue with the water pump, I'd leave it alone.
Good to know, thank you! I was just certain I couldn't go straight to Toyota for next day parts like I did w/ the FZJ80, so just went with what popped up first.
 
Good to know, thank you! I was just certain I couldn't go straight to Toyota for next day parts like I did w/ the FZJ80, so just went with what popped up first.

You can for quite a few honestly.

I just jump on my local Toyota dealers parts site and enter in the part number. It'll let you know if it's available.

Partsouq will usually have you parts in under a week. I've bought a few things from radd cruisers, s*** that's one off or hard to find. But they're not cheap and shipping was slow as ****(Canada post. Not their fault)

Partsouq typically takes 2-3 days to ship and 2-3 days to arrive.

Why are you doing a valve cover gasket? If you do that you need the gasket for the intake crossover too.
 
Screenshot_20221217_041508_Chrome.jpg
 
You can for quite a few honestly.

I just jump on my local Toyota dealers parts site and enter in the part number. It'll let you know if it's available.

Partsouq will usually have you parts in under a week. I've bought a few things from radd cruisers, s*** that's one off or hard to find. But they're not cheap and shipping was slow as f***(Canada post. Not their fault)

Partsouq typically takes 2-3 days to ship and 2-3 days to arrive.

Why are you doing a valve cover gasket? If you do that you need the gasket for the intake crossover too.
Just as a reference if I need it, my FZJ had a leak and sourced it to the valve cover gasket.

I haven't been able to touch my 1HD-T yet, it's just been delivered and waiting for me when I get home. So I'm wanting to have some kind of game plan for when I arrive. Work puts me on a 1 month home, 4 months away schedule so I didn't want to spend half of it waiting for parts. But I didn't realize there's shops with quick turn arounds
 
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I wouldn't order parts for it until you assess to prevent wasting money. Mines got 226k km's and isn't leaking any oil.

Very little on it would prevent driving it. So spend a month making a list and enjoying it. Order parts and install when you get back.

Things like fluids, filters, and the timing belt I'd suggest.

Look at the front end. If it needs a knuckle rebuild I highly suggest swapping to 97 lx450/fzj80 brakes. They're bigger and better.

If it needs rear brakes a lot of guys will say try and source the parts to swap to 94+ rears but that's a pain. And for the sheer number of times you'll actually do rear brakes, just get stockers. The pads are standard 80 pads so the dealer has them and the rotors can be sources from cruiserteq. Oem ones.

I did upgraded exhaust and suggest it. Beyond that, I can't speak to power mods.
 
That's true, think I'm just excited to get back into one and wanting to make sure it's done right. I just always heard "oh it's diesel, you need a diesel mechanic, those are expensive" etc growing up so I wasn't too sure what I'm getting into. But now I'm confident there's nothing I won't be able to get done myself with the amount of info available on here.

I'll post a proper progress post when I get a chance. I appreciate the info :cheers:
 
It's a 1hdt. It's so God damn simple.

Things that you should do. Research and remove the acsd.
 
That's true, think I'm just excited to get back into one and wanting to make sure it's done right. I just always heard "oh it's diesel, you need a diesel mechanic, those are expensive" etc growing up so I wasn't too sure what I'm getting into. But now I'm confident there's nothing I won't be able to get done myself with the amount of info available on here.

I'll post a proper progress post when I get a chance. I appreciate the info :cheers:

If you're a halfway capable mechanic, there's nothing you can't do yourself.

I agree with @Dusten , change fluids and probably timing belt, idler, tensioner immediately. Then drive it. Enjoy it. Do a shake down and put together a list of what you want to improve/repair, then prioritise
 
Most of those parts can be bought from partsouq for less.

The air filter can be bought at the Toyota dealer locally for less.
Unlike most timing belt jobs, the water pump isn't part of it. Unless you have an issue with the water pump, I'd leave it alone.
for 69k miles water pump is probably not necessary. it is however a cheap part and while doing a timing belt it very accessible. once you get to 200k or more i’d be inclined to change it every one or two belts for convenience sake and because they do eventually fail.
 
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