Builds 1989 FJ62 - V8 LT Swap "Yoda" (1 Viewer)

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E

EmanC

Joined
Aug 3, 2020
Threads
9
Messages
245
Location
Seattle
I'm coming over from the 40 section. I had my 40 stolen earlier this year, (still missing as of today.) I didn't want to get another 40 as I would prob piss me off every time I drove a different one and decided to use the opportunity to get a 62 and have something that's a bit more daily drivable year around and a bit more family friendly.

I picked this up from another member earlier in the year and been slowly working on it. It was already in a very good spot (l83+6l80e swap), with a ton of work having been done on it over the years. But hoping to use this space to document my journey and mods over the coming time. Lots of little tweaks and quality of life updates..

I'm an industrial designer as my day job, so making and designing parts for my cars has always been a fun side project. Will hopefully get a chance to make some custom 60 series items.


Very first thing I did was change the wheels out to the FJ 17" Steelies. Offset is wrong on the FJ Cruiser steelies so I grabbed a pair of 1.5" Spacers. Wheels were only $84 a piece on eBay as refurbed. Just painted them black with some rattlecan wheel paint. Biggest expense was getting the tired swapped over. Went 17" to open up options on tires and brakes in the future. Current tire is 285/75 BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 (34"x11")

Part #QtyDescription
WHS0052Spidertrax Toyota 6 on 5-1/2" x 1-1/2" Thick Wheel Spacer Kit
X42768 T517 Inch 6 on 5.5 Black Steel Wheel Fits Tacoma 4Runner Fj Cruiser


Photos of where the 62 stands today:
Yoda_LT_Swap.JPG
 
Next few items I did on it were simple upgrades. With the truck being in Seattle now, it means wipers were upgraded with 80 series components. I recommend just getting the kit from City Racer as it's cheaper than sourcing the parts yourself. They were out of stock when I placed my order, and it cost me quite a bit more even with a discount. Simple bolt on upgrades.


Part #QtyDescription
85221-350802Front Wiper Arm (LH) - 80 Series
85192-128002Front Wiper Arm covers
90179-081132Front Wiper Arm nuts
85222-350912Front Wiper Blades 17"
85241-600111REAR WIPER ARM ASSY - 80 Series
85212-600311Rear Wiper 13"

Yoda_Wipers.JPG



Also I replaced all the pull handles. Current ones were all sun faded / cracking / miss matched. Ordered five of the Assist for above the doors and the rear cargo handle. And two of the Front variant for the A pillar handles. There are specific plugs for each. You may be able to reuse the plus if they are in good condition, but mine all disintegrated when pulling them to remove the screws. Another simple job and makes the interior pieces match the headliner a bit better.

Part #QtyDescription
7461010020A05GRIP ASSEMBLY, ASSIST
74617140100110PLUG, ASSIST GRIP
7461090K00A02GRIP ASSEMBLY, ASSIST, FRONT
7461716010A34PLUG, ASSIST GRIP FRONT

Yoda_Handles.png
 
Fog light switch was just a generic LED switch. Ended up sourcing a FJ60 defrost switch for the driver side opening, weird that its the only 60 sized switch on a 62.

Switch I sourced was a 24V switch (84790-90A05). Cheaper than a 12v one (84790-20050). Just swapped out the lights with 12V ones. Can pick those up at CruiserCult for a few bucks or go LED if need. I ended up just covering the old logo with some black vinyl. Would like to revisit this and make a proper decal for this.

Also took the effort to fix a cutout cut into that area for an alarm LED. I 3D-printed something to match the OEM style blank panels.
Yoda_Fog.png
 
Sun Visors were sagging. Looked at potentially getting 70 series visors and replacing it, but for not much more I could get a pair of Rosen Sun Visors. Ordered directly from Rosen. Had them in 2 days as they ship from Oregon. Simple install as they bolt right into the stock mounting holes. Ended up 3D printing a support for them as the stock one doesn't work.
Yoda_Visors.JPG

Yoda_Visors_2.JPG
 
Current interior was redone custom by a PO. At least I think custom, since I couldn't find a kit that had the same accent fabric.

The interior was in great shape. But the 60 seats up front left a lot to be desired in terms of long term comfort. Truck actually came with some SOR foam to replace the drivers base. But decided to go with BMW seats. Had thought about Scheelman. but for the cost seems like BMW seats are the way to go. Can't argue with decades of BMW engineering. Plus TorFab makes a bracket that is bolt in and go.

I ended up scoring a set of seats from an e46 for $50. Nice thing about the e46 seats is they don't time out so no need to use a 555 timer or inline switch to keep them active (at least my variation didn't). The seat covers were a bit worn, so opted to have them reupholstered. In retrospect the tan prob would have worked fine, but figured why not try and have them match a bit better. I used the old material from the covers to redo the center and opted for a Brown vinyl outer to match the old interior color as best as possible. SEM paint for all the plastics to match. Also added in seat heaters while at it. Ended up using FJ80 switches (84751-60010 & 84751-60020) to control the generic relay setup.

Overall way more comfortable than Stock seats and cheaper than going with Scheelman or Recaro.

Yoda-Seats_old.JPG


Upholstered Yoda.png


image000000.jpg




Yoda-Seats_Installed.JPG


Switches.JPG
 
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BurntToast said:
Much appreciated just ordered 5.

What’s the plans and rationale for the LT? Keeping the 6 speed?
Click to expand...
No major plans for the L83 or 6l80. Just cleaning up the previous conversion wiring and accessory choices.

I do want to try and make the stock shifter line up a bit better. It currently works, but the indicators are a tiny bit off. I may try a few things.

Custom shift gates. So bolt on a piece of laser cut steel to line up with the correct spots, would hopefully allow for tapshift to work.

And/Or a custom printed indicator window so everything lines up.
 
I did the first part of the Power Door Locks Permanent Fix

Added in relays to the passenger side. I did waterproof relays because why not, fit without problem in the door. Unknown Amazon option, but have used these before and haven't had any problems with them so far.

Some doors don't always unlock. So I think the solenoids may be going bad. TorFab apparently has a bracket to install generic door actuators. So may do that when I get to the power window section of the mod.

Added a bit more dynamat in the doors while at it. Really makes the doors feel solid when closing.

Also while i had the door cards out. I added superglue to the edges of the pin holes. Really helps strengthen those and prevents them from blowing out.
Can see how it darkens around the bottom area of the keyhole.

Yoda_Window_Relay.JPG


Yoda_Window_Relay Open.JPG


Yoda_DynaMat.JPG
 
EmanC said:
I did the first part of the Power Door Locks Permanent Fix

Added in relays to the passenger side. I did waterproof relays because why not, fit without problem in the door. Unknown Amazon option, but have used these before and haven't had any problems with them so far.

Some doors don't always unlock. So I think the solenoids may be going bad. TorFab apparently has a bracket to install generic door actuators. So may do that when I get to the power window section of the mod.

Added a bit more dynamat in the doors while at it. Really makes the doors feel solid when closing.

Also while i had the door cards out. I added superglue to the edges of the pin holes. Really helps strengthen those and prevents them from blowing out.
Can see how it darkens around the bottom area of the keyhole.

View attachment 3718823

View attachment 3718822

View attachment 3718824
Click to expand...
Looks great, did the same with mine... even fixed up the door panels the same... and then I bought @orikawa 's panels because they're the bees knees :cool:
Nice work!
 
Speaking of @orikawa

The rear sliders leak a tiny bit and the limited rain we had here in Seattle while I've have the truck had started to make the rear panels warp a bit. I need to address the leak before the rainy season is here. Thinking I may just go back to stock and look at Gullwing windows down the road.


But to replace the slightly sad and soggy panels. I went with Orikawa rear panels. In my eyes they are the nicest options of what's currently out there. Especially for Brown interiors. Good latches, powder coated and minimal. Installing the rear panels was a matter of patience as the well nuts are a bit tricky to install. Easy if you just use a screwdriver by hand and go slow. Using a drill to install the screws makes it to easy to over tighten and unseat the well nuts. I had to file the latches a tiny bit once installed to have them close nicely. But that was quick work. I may go back and install plus nuts in the holes so I feel confident they are really on there.

Yoda_DPanel_Closed.png

Yoda_DPanel_Open.png


Yoda_PPanel_Closed.png
Yoda_PPanel_Open.png
 
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The quality on the rear panels was so nice that I ended up ordering the center console to match.

It's nice to be able to lock stuff in here and proper cup holders are great. Console bolted right up no problem there. Ill prob look for some black hardware, just to have them not stand out.

I did have to modify my switches a tiny bit to make them fit. Tolerances on the switch cutout was a bit tight on the tabs and had to chisel them a bit to install them in the panel. Sounds like Spenser is addressing this.

Also with the center console I had Spenser add a custom Molle panel to the inside of the lid to hold a medical kit. Used a tear away IFAK bag and will house my first aid in here. Small custom charge for this, but totally worth it for the added storage space.

Also a Maxpedition Fatty Pocket Organizer fits perfectly in the storage are and holds a mini tool kit. I may make a post about what I carry in here later. My bigger tools live under the rear bench, this is just for EDC and minimal things that may pop up. But will call out this Multitool - for $40 its a great deal. Comparable to a Leatherman Surge but it takes normal sized hex bits instead of the weird flat ones that Leatherman uses. Have one in every car now.



Arm rest on the passenger side hit the side of the BMW seats, so had to remove it. But it clears the driver side no problem. Just assuming the width is wider on the BMW seat than stock.

Yoda_Console_Driver_Side.png
Yoda_Console_Driver_Close.png
Yoda_Console_Open.png
Yoda_Console_Switches.png
 
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One of the things that bugged me on this was the way the 2-5/8" Tach was installed.

It was just sticking way too far forward. I wanted to replace it with something that looked better. Seems like the common choice is a 2 1/16" Tach. So I ordered a smaller one to match my current gauges. Upon taking the tach out. I noticed that the dash bezel had been cut to make the larger gauge fit. Plus the way the larger gauges were mounted left a lot of room for improvement. Just hand cut lexan and sheet metal screws.

I ended up buying a new dash bezel, 3d printing adapters and swapping the tach over.

Files for all this are on Thingiverse. STL and .STEP. Final prints were in PA6-CF. Carbon filled Nylon. So should hold up to the heat and plenty strong enough to hold up gauges.

PS. Ignore the duck tape wire markers. PO work , has been fixed and labeled correctly.

Yoda_Tach_Big.JPG


Yoda_Speedhut Mounts.JPG


Yoda_Tach_Small.JPG
 
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I used that tach set up for a few days. But had a few problems: It looks Tiny. Tach just feels comically small in the opening. The silver bezel may not help, but still small overall. Also the new gauge was LED and the old gauges are something else? EL? Guessing they are the past generation so the tach would light up way brighter. At night this was really annoying.

So I ended up 3d printing a new mount that uses the larger tach and sits it to mimic the original placement. Much better and feels right in place. Plus the lighting now matches between the gauges. I may paint the trim rings on other gauges to make that feature fall away.

First print (photo) shows original attempt. The mounting ring opening was a tiny bit too small. But final photos shows the final version that sits much better.

Yoda_Tach_Comp.png


Yoda_Flush_Large_Tach_Mount.JPG


Yoda_Flush_Large_Tach.JPG
 
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