1989 FJ62 "The Woody", rust repair begins

[LordHz]

Fun project and rust sucks.

On the filler. I love Rage gold and Dolphin glaze. Never try to get all of the filler on at once and expect to sand, fill, sand, fill etc until it is smooth.

Do you use foam sanding blocks?

I have been doing thin layers and slowly building up the area.. The big mistake on my part was not beating the panel closer to the original level, checking with a straight edge, but I didn't. I have a whole bin full of different sanding tools. Block sanders, foam, rubber block, etc. Just not my cup of tea..

 

[Spook50]

Fun project and rust sucks.

On the filler. I love Rage gold and Dolphin glaze. Never try to get all of the filler on at once and expect to sand, fill, sand, fill etc until it is smooth.

Do you use foam sanding blocks?

Isn't there a metal based filler out there that's supposed to be worlds better than Bondo and the other regular fillers that are commonly used?

 

[Realultpwr]

Yes it is called all metal I believe USG makes it And it is excellent

 

[LordHz]

Rear Gate/Hatch Overview Pic

So here is the final result of all my hard work on the rear hatch and gate. I plan to replace the wood panel vinyl shortly. So of my 19 major areas of rust, this corrects 6 of them. Gate Rust (2), Hatch Rust (1), Rear Body Mounts (2), Rear gate weather stripping (1). Won't list the others yet, still cataloging and taking pictures.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

That's impressive man, good work

 

[LordHz]

I spent last night and half of today replacing the broken right-rear spring, only one picture of my spring pin pain. For the time being, I am simply using an old spring I got from a fellow member (thanks again rjs78 and robustbambi). I ordered new u-bolts, but I wanted to reuse the shackles and spring pin. All I have to say about replacing springs on a 24 year old truck is, DAMN! The shackle bolts were no problem and the bolts were actually rusted down so the spring came off easily. However, the darn spring pin was completely stuck. I wailed on it with a sledge hammer for 2 hours and it wouldn't budge. I finally used an angle grinder to cut the spring eye in half. That relieved the friction that the bushing had on the pin (think Chinese finger trap). I also had to cut the u-bolts off, I couldn't crack the nuts with a IR 550 lb impact wrench. Anyhow, the pic is of my first attempt to re-install the spring pin. It wouldn't go past this depth no matter what I tried. I ended up prying it out, reaming out the old bushings with a drill bit (duh, should have done that first) and slathering the bushing and bolt with grease. After that things went well and I drove it today.

 

[LordHz]

Surprise, more rust

Somewhere earlier in the thread (post #26) I showed a picture from inside the rig of the right-rear wheel well (rear side) rust. Here is what it looks like from the outside. I have new 16 gauge steel and still need to cut all this rust out. This will be overlap welds, so no body filler. Once welded in I am going to cover the patch and exposed original metal with some sort of under-body coating. Does anyone know what Toyota used originally? It looks like 2 layers, the white base layer and a thinner black or gray layer.

 

[LordHz]

Here are the larger rust spots, 11 of them, the other 2 are very minor on the front fenders and not visible. The LF wheel arch has 6 different spots, the largest circle is actually where I ground down a 5 inch diameter rust spot and sprayed with some leftover paint from when I was painting the tailgate. Both of the rear quarter panels will not be repaired to the original shape, my plan is to cut those level above the top of the bumper and replace with large pieces of extruded box steel, bolting into the current bumper and a support connecting it to the frame. I will also weld in the some panels to close up the body from the elements.

 

[LordHz]

I found some threads on chopping the rear quarters down and adding box steel. I'm not planning on extreme 4 wheeling, just don't like the rust and don't like the cost to the replace the quarters.

 

[LordHz]

Right rear wheel well patch.. I was going to cut out the old stuff, but instead I am going to coat it in rust converter. I will use some 3M under-body coat inside the wheel well.

 

[LordHz]

Since I was replacing the tailgate trim, thought I would do all the rear carpet to match.



Here is one with the seat up.




Got this indoor/outdoor carpet at Home Depot for $15, good tuff stuff. Added another layer of padding just in case I ever want to camp in it.

 

[LordHz]

Totally forgot to post this, finished this up Sat morning. Right rear wheel well rust is all fixed..

 

[LordHz]

Rust Scorecard

Of the original 16 rust spots, there were 11 left. Now there are 10.

 

[LordHz]

Rear Quarter Panel Chop?!

So here is my proposed cut line for the rear quarter panels. The inner panel supports the fuel filler, so the new metal will have a bevel that matches the contour by the bumper..

 

[Spook50]

Significant progress.

 

[LordHz]

Significant progress.

I guess, each time I look at the list (and the wagon), I get a little depressed. I see other guys on here doing a lot more in less time. Anyhow, thanks for the encouragement. Trying to decide which one of the remaining 10 to do next. My first instinct is the quarter chops, since they are really visible. However, the left rear wheel arch is starting to come unglued. Decisions, decisions. The next repair will have have to wait a little while for my real work commitments to settle down.

The important thing is with the spring fixed and the body mount repaired, it is much safer.

 

[JWAYNEP]

What are you using to make the bends in the panels? Thanks

 

[Spudman]

Mate, you doing an awesome job, there was a few spots there that I would seriously have thought about giving up, but you've soldiered on and the results speak for themselves.

I am in the middle of cutting rust from my 61, I am using a donor truck for the cuts as I don't have access to a bender etc.

You've certainly given me inspiration to carry on

Keep it up mate