1989 FJ62 "The Woody", rust repair begins

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LordHz

LordHz

Joined
Sep 6, 2010
Threads
3
Messages
82
Hello all, I posted a couple of years ago introducing myself and my FJ62, "Woody". I have been lurking, absorbing and benefiting from everyone's experience. My cruiser is from Colorado and Washington State, so it is in very rough shape. There are rust through spots on the rear hatch, rear gate, bottom of every door, kick plates, rear quarter panels, inner C channel frame reinforcements, rear wheel well and both rear wheel covers. It's a big honking mess. But it's paid for and I enjoy working on it.. Therapy in a way. I always wanted to learn to weld, so I recently purchased a Miller 211 and made a bending brake. I have always repaired my own vehicles and have done everything from engine rebuilds to suspension replacements. However, I am a complete neophyte when it comes to body work. I will try to post some of my work and hope it helps others.

Pic 1: Original picture of damage
Pic 2: Rear window removed (hat tip IH8MUD for instructions on window removal!)
Pic 3: Metal welded in and ground, lots of body filler.

The repair is in 4 pieces of steel, will post each part in another post. Also, after doing all butt welds, I might have done an overlap instead.

Please keep in mind this is my first sheet metal welding EVER. Also, I haven't gotten my C25 gas yet, so these welds are all using flux core. Again, wouldn't recommend doing that. :whoops:
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Part 1 of patch

Part 1 of the repair, inside lip, driver side. I can't seem to find a good overall shot of the inside before I cut out the rusted metal.
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Part 2 of patch

Sorry for the crazy angle, here is the other part of the inside edge.
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Part 3 of patch

The rear hatch has supports for the rear wiper, so I had to tack some reinforcements in. Not pretty, but the inner/middle steel is secured.
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Part 4 of patch

So here are the 2 outside pieces all cut and test fit. Bending these parts to match the original stamping/contours of the hatch was a pain. :bang:
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Part 5 of patch

So here is some spot weld/tack goodness. I am not the most patient person, but I think by the time I am done with the project I will be. So some lessons learned. I used the skip tack method and tried to keep the heat to a minimum. The biggest issue was making the parts a little too tight, which pulled in the metal. Had to use some hammers to knock things back out. Next step is filler, so I'm hoping I can get it close to the original shape. Doing filler tonight, paint this weekend and hopefully I can get the window back in next week.

Anyone have any tips on getting the window back in? I have new weatherstripping on the way.
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Nice work! I'm pretty sure kevinrowland (Wagongear) did a video or write-up on how to re-install the window with the weather stripping he sells. Start there, if that fails a mud search will certainly bear some fruit.
 
Steel

What gauge of steel are you using, and where did you get it? I have some cut and weld in my near future and just looking for suggestions.
 
I'm ashamed to admit I purchased a 12" x 24" piece of 22 gauge mild steel from Home Depot.. $14 or so I believe.. They have 22, 18 and 16 gauge at mine. Here in Atlanta there are plenty of places to get steel, but I was in there for something else and just picked it up. They have larger pieces as well. If you overlapping and the repair is not visible (wheel wells for example) use 18 gauge, easier to weld on. BTW, according to my handy dandy gauge the Toyota sheet metal is 22 gauge, at least the stuff on the rear hatch is.
 
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AnkurGT said:
Looking good. You'll have to discuss with Robust Bambi the naming rights to "Woody" though. He's got a 1990 62 with "wood" trim also. :-)
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LordHz, my lawyers will contact you haha.
 
stonefly said:
Looks good to me! Take your time on the finish, don't be in too much of a hurry to paint.
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Thanks, I will probably spend a couple if days playing with the filler. Keep in mind the body on this wagon is in very very rough shape, so some ripples in the finish are the least of my worries. But my plan is a very clean finish. Hopefully.
 
steel

I have the same piece of 22 gauge from home depot in the garage. It was perfect for the rotted off corners of the windshield wiper motor cover for the TLCA raffle truck.
 
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Good work for only beginning to weld. I too am just learning how to weld.

Got any pics of the metal brake you made? I have been curious as to what it would take to make one.
 
TallCanDan said:
Good work for only beginning to weld. I too am just learning how to weld.

Got any pics of the metal brake you made? I have been curious as to what it would take to make one.
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Here is a picture, I have since changed the hinges and added some reinforcement to the die (top). It is far to long, should have made it 24-30 inches instead of 48. The best reference is on Miller's Project section. Full PDF specs and parts. Search for Bending Brake on their site, materials cost about $150 at HD prices, $90 at a good metal supply shop. I have to use a large C clamp in the middle to keep it tight against the metal for a clean bend. I am looking into purchasing a press brake/rollor/shear combo.

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I thought that the metal bending and tack welding were difficult.. Nope, body filler and I do not get along. This is the 3rd coat and I still have a few air pockets that have to be filled and sanded. Then progressively finer sanding and some primer and paint.

I read some threads on re-installing the rear window, but I don't see any mention of using a sealant under the weather stripping. When I removed the window there was a layer of black urethane sealant underneath. Is this required? Thoughts?

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Ugh, this is something I've been putting off for far too long. And my lift gate looks to be in even worse condition that yours when comparing the "gasket in place" pic to mine as it sits. I'll be trying to find some 18 or 16 gauge at the local scrap centers just so it can be a little beefier after the repair is done, but watching your progress, this looks like it's going to be a hell of an undertaking.

Also on the list when I can do my gate are relocating the washer nozzle to the top like the 80 series washer, and finding a nylon washer that's a good fit to put under the key tumbler/button so I can lose the black trim/surround piece that disintegrated on me just a few weeks ago.
 
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