SOLD
blunt honest truth: the engine is showing signs of high mileage because it has high miles. plugs 4 and 5 foul with oil. rings, valve seals, valve guides... all 3? i don't know and the price reflects this
Please send a PM for fastest response
Cliffs notes:
1989 Toyota LandCruiser. FJ62
Automatic
~240k miles
Salvage Title
Some rust on replaceable panels
Solid frame
$2000
MORE PICS CLICK HERE
Bad
-ac not currently charged. Had new compressor and drier installed ~4 years ago but r12 leaked out again and I don’t really need the ac that much.
-ac condenser should be replaced, or at least checked for leaks, due to front end damage
-cracked windshield (has been since I’ve owned it, no leaks)
-front bumper bent up
-rear hatch has small bend on one corner
-tail gate is primer black over white paint. Won’t rust, but doesn’t match though is surprisingly incognito. Original had big dents
-rust on passenger side doors, have replacements in oxidized red
-dash broken from attempted radio theft
-scion radio AM/FM/CD/MP3 player. Scion unit plugs in directly thanks to Toyota parts bin compatibility (ipod controller can be installed aftermarket)
-driver seat and rugs show use of 233k miles
-right rear panel/marker light show evidence of a light scrape with the side of my garage
Good
-heater works great
-New:master cylinder, rear drums and slave/wheel cylinders, rear shoes, front pads
-water pump replaced ~5.5 years ago
-front axle serviced ~5.5 years ago, still not leaking. Have redline oil in it
-4runner front brake calipers
-4runner master cylinder (New)
-full float rear axle* from an austrailian hj60-have redline in it
-doesn’t have sway bar mounts, but I still have the sway bar and some plates to weld on, just never got to it.
-new brake pads/shoes
-4 wheel drive and locking hubs work fine
-all switches and controls work
-parking brake works just dandy
-rear defroster works
-rear window wiper works, I don’t know about the washer I have never tried it (because I don’t know how)
-Old Man Emu (OME) Heavy Duty leaf springs front and rear. Rides pretty stiff, taking out a leaf front and rear would help
-OME greasable pin anti-inversion shackles front and rear, though the anti inversion pins aren’t in all of the shackles right now because I couldn’t quite figure out how to do it. I never wheel it, so no biggie.
-Man A Fre Ubolt flip kits front and rear so the U-bolt threads point Up instead of at the rocks on the trails I’ve never been on.
-vacuum transfer case shift mechanism for 4-Hi worked fine last time I tried it (2 months ago winter)
- 3FE engine is famous for ejecting an oil galley plug in the head with no warning, except the oil pressure light telling you your oil is all gone and you’re going to seize the motor 5 seconds ago. This plug has been REPLACED and GLUED in with a threaded plug that will not come out.
Good or bad… I’m the guy with the gun:
-33x9.5-15 BFG AT KO tires are almost done. some might say they are done. i wouldn't drive it in the snow till tires are addressed Matching Spare is full tread, never run at all
-roof gutter trim removed
-“snake blinder” rocker trim removed
-front grill area is blacked out, because I don’t like chrome and the factory chrome-on-plastic was peeling anyway
-hood is silver with the clear coat peeling. I painted the lower lip near the grill black to give it a unifying effect…. The hood is straight and could be painted to match, but never would, so I just kindof embraced the mismatch.
-I have chains for the tires
-10mpg average. As low as 8 on a tank, as high as 14 but it’s usually 10
*uses the same bearings and seals as the front axle does, just in a different arrangement. The only thing that has to come from overseas is the axle shaft itself, though I hear there might be an aftermarket manufacturer making them. Poly pro maybe, not longfield last I checked unfortunately.
background:
I’ve owned it for ~6 years. I am the 3rd owner, 2nd owner knew original owners and it’s been on the SF peninsula and south bay all it’s life aside from surf trips to baja with the second owner. Unfortunately the 2nd owner lived on Ocean Beach in San Francisco, and there is light rust all over from the salt air. The frame is solid, under carriage is solid, but the roof shows some pinhole size rust coming through. All the fasteners on the front of the truck were rusty when I rehabbed it after the rear-ender, but they were functional still.
Said rear ending was late November of 2009, and I drove the truck away from it. To get it safe again, I replaced the radiator core support, hood and both headlight buckets (only the right was bent though both were rusty, and the Toyota parts guy showed me that the price difference between just the metal plate the lamps attach to vs buying the complete assembly was small enough to be worth it for rustless screws and new adjuster hardware so i got both) the radiator is fine, and I didn’t replace the AC condenser because the system was already empty and I don’t really use the AC. The grill was barely cracked in the end, so I just stitched it together and put on another coat of black paint.
As it sits now, it’s daily driveable but is by no means perfect. It has ~240k miles on it, and the transmission seems to be holding up ok though it doesn’t like the tall tires that well but it deals. It’s not a project per se, but one could spend some time fixing the little things that I just don’t seem to get to. I wouldn't hesitate to drive it anywhere
blunt honest truth: the engine is showing signs of high mileage because it has high miles. plugs 4 and 5 foul with oil. rings, valve seals, valve guides... all 3? i don't know and the price reflects this
Please send a PM for fastest response
Cliffs notes:
1989 Toyota LandCruiser. FJ62
Automatic
~240k miles
Salvage Title
Some rust on replaceable panels
Solid frame
$2000
MORE PICS CLICK HERE
Bad
-ac not currently charged. Had new compressor and drier installed ~4 years ago but r12 leaked out again and I don’t really need the ac that much.
-ac condenser should be replaced, or at least checked for leaks, due to front end damage
-cracked windshield (has been since I’ve owned it, no leaks)
-front bumper bent up
-rear hatch has small bend on one corner
-tail gate is primer black over white paint. Won’t rust, but doesn’t match though is surprisingly incognito. Original had big dents
-rust on passenger side doors, have replacements in oxidized red
-dash broken from attempted radio theft
-scion radio AM/FM/CD/MP3 player. Scion unit plugs in directly thanks to Toyota parts bin compatibility (ipod controller can be installed aftermarket)
-driver seat and rugs show use of 233k miles
-right rear panel/marker light show evidence of a light scrape with the side of my garage
Good
-heater works great
-New:master cylinder, rear drums and slave/wheel cylinders, rear shoes, front pads
-water pump replaced ~5.5 years ago
-front axle serviced ~5.5 years ago, still not leaking. Have redline oil in it
-4runner front brake calipers
-4runner master cylinder (New)
-full float rear axle* from an austrailian hj60-have redline in it
-doesn’t have sway bar mounts, but I still have the sway bar and some plates to weld on, just never got to it.
-new brake pads/shoes
-4 wheel drive and locking hubs work fine
-all switches and controls work
-parking brake works just dandy
-rear defroster works
-rear window wiper works, I don’t know about the washer I have never tried it (because I don’t know how)
-Old Man Emu (OME) Heavy Duty leaf springs front and rear. Rides pretty stiff, taking out a leaf front and rear would help
-OME greasable pin anti-inversion shackles front and rear, though the anti inversion pins aren’t in all of the shackles right now because I couldn’t quite figure out how to do it. I never wheel it, so no biggie.
-Man A Fre Ubolt flip kits front and rear so the U-bolt threads point Up instead of at the rocks on the trails I’ve never been on.
-vacuum transfer case shift mechanism for 4-Hi worked fine last time I tried it (2 months ago winter)
- 3FE engine is famous for ejecting an oil galley plug in the head with no warning, except the oil pressure light telling you your oil is all gone and you’re going to seize the motor 5 seconds ago. This plug has been REPLACED and GLUED in with a threaded plug that will not come out.
Good or bad… I’m the guy with the gun:
-33x9.5-15 BFG AT KO tires are almost done. some might say they are done. i wouldn't drive it in the snow till tires are addressed Matching Spare is full tread, never run at all
-roof gutter trim removed
-“snake blinder” rocker trim removed
-front grill area is blacked out, because I don’t like chrome and the factory chrome-on-plastic was peeling anyway
-hood is silver with the clear coat peeling. I painted the lower lip near the grill black to give it a unifying effect…. The hood is straight and could be painted to match, but never would, so I just kindof embraced the mismatch.
-I have chains for the tires
-10mpg average. As low as 8 on a tank, as high as 14 but it’s usually 10
*uses the same bearings and seals as the front axle does, just in a different arrangement. The only thing that has to come from overseas is the axle shaft itself, though I hear there might be an aftermarket manufacturer making them. Poly pro maybe, not longfield last I checked unfortunately.
background:
I’ve owned it for ~6 years. I am the 3rd owner, 2nd owner knew original owners and it’s been on the SF peninsula and south bay all it’s life aside from surf trips to baja with the second owner. Unfortunately the 2nd owner lived on Ocean Beach in San Francisco, and there is light rust all over from the salt air. The frame is solid, under carriage is solid, but the roof shows some pinhole size rust coming through. All the fasteners on the front of the truck were rusty when I rehabbed it after the rear-ender, but they were functional still.
Said rear ending was late November of 2009, and I drove the truck away from it. To get it safe again, I replaced the radiator core support, hood and both headlight buckets (only the right was bent though both were rusty, and the Toyota parts guy showed me that the price difference between just the metal plate the lamps attach to vs buying the complete assembly was small enough to be worth it for rustless screws and new adjuster hardware so i got both) the radiator is fine, and I didn’t replace the AC condenser because the system was already empty and I don’t really use the AC. The grill was barely cracked in the end, so I just stitched it together and put on another coat of black paint.
As it sits now, it’s daily driveable but is by no means perfect. It has ~240k miles on it, and the transmission seems to be holding up ok though it doesn’t like the tall tires that well but it deals. It’s not a project per se, but one could spend some time fixing the little things that I just don’t seem to get to. I wouldn't hesitate to drive it anywhere
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