Builds 1988 BJ74 “Number 1” (7 Viewers)

[Honger]

Tim Tam's are SO GOOD!

Tim Tam SLAM!

If you don't know... I'm sorry.

 

[LJRay]

Amen brother!

 

[Omrib]

So curiosity (why is is curious, curiously have the U, but curiosity doesn’t…) got the best of me.

Do 17x7.5” rims fit without spacers.

Yes*


*(legally obligated by my lawyer team. May not work in your in your instance. If they don’t fit, you must remove it…why? Chewbacca is a wookie from Kashyyk. He lives on Endor. Why does an 8’ tall wookie want to live with 3’ tall Ewoks on Endor. That doesn’t not make sense. )

So I took the spacers off and it fits. Spins fine no interference on tie rod or brakes. You will have to make your steering stops come out more which will lose a little turning radius, but not a lot.
View attachment 3605287View attachment 3605297

Right at the edge of the fender.

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However, the back is super close to the leaf spring…too close as my rear overload is splayed out and slightly rubs.


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So in reality I think the rear needs 3mm-6mm spacing to be 100% safe from rub. Especially if I fix where that spring is pushed over.


They make hub centric spacers that don’t bolt on in 3mm size. That should still leave plenty of threads for the lug nut to bite onto.

View attachment 3605308

Are these spacers just as frowned upon as bolt on. I really would like to get rid of the spacers, but correct rim costs would be much too high at this point.

Mine has 5 mm spacers, still enough thread for the lug nuts.
No issues so far.
The thin spacers are using the OEM lug nuts, thus eliminating the "hidden" bolts issue of uncertainty.
Only problem I can identify with them is that the wheel is no longer hub centered, and is centered only by the cone shaped lug nuts.
Never had any issues with that on any vehicle, as long as you check the lug nuts for tightening every once in a while.
Nice looking wheels and a very good solution.
I wish I could do the same if our regulator wasn't that strict with tire and wheel sizes, having to match OEM feagures.
By the way, these OEM 17X7.5'S are pretty strong.
Have been testing those to 1100 kg and are performing well after 70 kkm plus now.

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

I've used a 1/4" spacer with stock lug nuts on my 45 for about 25 years, no issues.

 

[FJBen]

I've used a 1/4" spacer with stock lug nuts on my 45 for about 25 years, no issues.

Sounds good! I might just order up some 1/4” hub centric spacers and call it good.

Mine has 5 mm spacers, still enough thread for the lug nuts.
No issues so far.
The thin spacers are using the OEM lug nuts, thus eliminating the "hidden" bolts issue of uncertainty.
Only problem I can identify with them is that the wheel is no longer hub centered, and is centered only by the cone shaped lug nuts.
Never had any issues with that on any vehicle, as long as you check the lug nuts for tightening every once in a while.
Nice looking wheels and a very good solution.
I wish I could do the same if our regulator wasn't that strict with tire and wheel sizes, having to match OEM feagures.
By the way, these OEM 17X7.5'S are pretty strong.
Have been testing those to 1100 kg and are performing well after 70 kkm plus now.

Great thanks for the feed back. I’ll for sure get hubcentric spacers to keep them centered and lined up correctly.

 

[coldtaco]

I’m running what I believe to be 1/4” spacers in the front, Charles had swapped out the lugs with longer ones

 

[FJBen]

@janyyc tagged me on a classified add here. What a cool rig! Some of you might not visit the expedition build side so I thought I’d share the pictures here as well.

Literally looks like an alucab or sort grafted onto an FRP top. Cut the top off the frp and graft the tent on.

 

[FJBen]

Inside buildout.

 

[sark]

Is it reinforced with the roll cage? I feel like the FRP alone would not handle tent weight, but the roll cage could bear some load if that could be figured out.

 

[FJBen]

Is it reinforced with the roll cage? I feel like the FRP alone would not handle tent weight, but the roll cage could bear some load if that could be figured out.

Doesn’t appear to be on the roll cage at all.
I think all the weight is resting on the FRP sides.

 

[Felde]

Hi
From factory, it only has the B pillar hoop that supports the frp top / roof. The roll cage doesn't.
If I look closely at the pics, I see the rollcage is stand alone and not attached to the frp top, still.
I'm with your concern. No idea how, but apparently they managed to put all weight on the remainders of the FRP-Top.
But the the tent only adds the canvas and the subframe. The roof is there anyways. That might be less weight than an ordinary roof rack plus a full roof tent, which I also saw on FRPs already.
Cheers Ralf

 

[sark]

Yeah, I didn't think it was reinforced. In a dream world, I'd love a reinforced, metal version of the FRP top so we could have it be reinforced and more load-bearing. 73's are the perfect size for a compact 4x4 setup, to include a RTT, but it seems like the only other real options are either to fab a full exoskeleton or cross your appendages that the rain rails and plastic hold up.

The one you linked looks heavy. Certainly not a feather-weight setup...

 

[robmobile73]

Is it reinforced with the roll cage? I feel like the FRP alone would not handle tent weight, but the roll cage could bear some load if that could be figured out.

The FRP top on my BJ73 is quite strong. I believe there is significant plywood sandwiched between the layers of glass. If the load is spread out accross the roof and not isolated on small spots it is quite strong. IE my full length roof rack is bolted to unistrut channel which is bolted and bonded to the roof spreading the load out evenly. 300-400lb on my roof and nothing cracks/pops or flexes extensively.

 

[AirheadNut]

Been quite a while since I looked closely at an FRP top, but I'll put in my 2¢: from what I can tell vertical loading with that setup would be just fine, the walls of the FRP top should be able to easily support that weight in a driving situation. Not entirely sure about side loading (vehicle sway, jolts on bumpy roads, etc) but the thickness of the FRP left above the rear doors should give good strength for that as well. I am a fan of overbuilding stuff thought, so to be safe I would probably put some gussets in that tie the pop top in with the rear FRP pillars, or some plates that attach to the roll bar to add stiffness.

 

[FJBen]

550,000kms.

 

[Combat Wombat]

Achievement Unlocked:
Engine run in complete

 

[FJBen]

Been quite a while since I looked closely at an FRP top, but I'll put in my 2¢: from what I can tell vertical loading with that setup would be just fine, the walls of the FRP top should be able to easily support that weight in a driving situation. Not entirely sure about side loading (vehicle sway, jolts on bumpy roads, etc) but the thickness of the FRP left above the rear doors should give good strength for that as well. I am a fan of overbuilding stuff thought, so to be safe I would probably put some gussets in that tie the pop top in with the rear FRP pillars, or some plates that attach to the roll bar to add stiffness.

I agree the top is stronger than most people think. Putting all the weight on the rails is not good. It’s only like a 1” strip of metal sandwiched between the FRP

Just looking at my extended top, that edge over the windows before it goes horizontal is pretty stout. Spread out over the whole top it will support a lot.

 

[FJBen]

The FRP top on my BJ73 is quite strong. I believe there is significant plywood sandwiched between the layers of glass. If the load is spread out accross the roof and not isolated on small spots it is quite strong. IE my full length roof rack is bolted to unistrut channel which is bolted and bonded to the roof spreading the load out evenly. 300-400lb on my roof and nothing cracks/pops or flexes extensively.

Yeah I’m not sure if there is plywood in between on the top part. I don’t think there is but I could be wrong.

Spreading out the load is key. I stood on my roof rack. I’m 225. I’ve at least had 270 total up there.

I think building a tent into the top would be no problem if built like this guy did.

 

[JuanJ]

Hi
From factory, it only has the B pillar hoop that supports the frp top / roof. The roll cage doesn't.
If I look closely at the pics, I see the rollcage is stand alone and not attached to the frp top, still.
I'm with your concern. No idea how, but apparently they managed to put all weight on the remainders of the FRP-Top.
But the the tent only adds the canvas and the subframe. The roof is there anyways. That might be less weight than an ordinary roof rack plus a full roof tent, which I also saw on FRPs already.
Cheers Ralf

Hello,

In both soft top and FRP top 70 Series, the B-pillar is intended to protect the occupants in the event of a rollover. In fact, it surrounds the tub in an arch.

If I remember correctly, a 'MUD member (from Norway I think) experienced a rollover with his 73 Series and the pillar saved him. It needed replacement, though.

It is possible to remove this pillar. However, the manual recommends not to do it,

Some 73 Series have an additional roll bar. However, this bar bolts to the pillar. Extra protection, I reckon.

Regarding the factory FRP top, it is beefier than it looks, as is the case with 70 Series components.






Juan