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- #341
Couldn't ask for anything better. I got the plastigauge cleaned off the crank and bearings, tomorrow it will go back in for the final time with a good coating of oil.
Builds 1987 fj60 12h-t h55f conversion (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter roma042987
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- #342
Finally got a couple of hours to work on it this evening. Crank is installed with a generous amount of delo400 main caps torqued in sequence from the center out to a final spec of 100lbs double checked with two torque wrenches, a fancy snapon and my trusty craftsman. The main caps are of course numbered and also have arrows pointing forward so that part is easy. I did reuse the thrust bearings because they looked perfect, tomorrow I'm going to try to get a dial indicator just to double check my end play on the crank.
I also got around to checking the piston ring gap on the rings. The piston ring is pushed into the cylinder roughly 5.5" and the gap is measured with feeler gauges.
I also got around to checking the piston ring gap on the rings. The piston ring is pushed into the cylinder roughly 5.5" and the gap is measured with feeler gauges.
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- #343
The 1st and 2nd rings call for the same spec while the oil ring is a bit tighter. My final numbers are in the middle or a bit on the tighter end of standard spec. Couldn't be happier 
You can see my hand written numbers on the right
You can see my hand written numbers on the right
Michael B
SILVER Star
Good work Roma!
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- #345
The wrist pins are matched to each piston so its important to not get them mixed up. I put these in the freezer for a few days and then heated the pistons with a heat gun to ease installation. The small end bushings are in great shape so nothing needed there.
Here are the old rod bearings. I couldn't seem to get a picture without all the glare so they look much worse than they actually are.
They are also .25 over
Here are the old rod bearings. I couldn't seem to get a picture without all the glare so they look much worse than they actually are.
They are also .25 over
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- #346
Here are the replacements
Next step will be plastigauging the rod bearings. I also ordered a wiseco 92mm piston ring compressor. I'm not a big fan of the universal kind and since I'll have one more 12ht to rebuild after this I figured I might as well splurge a little.
Next step will be plastigauging the rod bearings. I also ordered a wiseco 92mm piston ring compressor. I'm not a big fan of the universal kind and since I'll have one more 12ht to rebuild after this I figured I might as well splurge a little.
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- #347
Got the thrust clearances checked. Prying like hell with a breaker bar im at .012 with max allowed being .0118. So I pulled the #4 main cap and thrust washers and measured them. They don't show any discernable or abnormal wear and measure right in the middle for standard size bearings. Im going to order a set of new standard washers as well as a set of .125 over and measure them. According to my calculations the .125 bearings should put me at .008 Which is within the standard limit where I want to be. The manual calls for .0016-.0094 as standard and a max of .0118
I was really hoping to be checking my rod bearing clearances tomorrow but now I'll have t wait a couple of days for new washers. In to deep to skimp out at this point.
I was really hoping to be checking my rod bearing clearances tomorrow but now I'll have t wait a couple of days for new washers. In to deep to skimp out at this point.
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- #348
So much for checking rod bearing clearances this evening. The locking tabs are on the wrong side of the bearing. Did some quick homework and found at least 4 different part numbers for 12ht bearings in .25 over depending on the year model of the engine. I'll have to see what I can order tomorrow and go from there.
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- #349
Well looks like the .25 over rod bearings in my variety are discontinued by Toyota as well as the next size up thrust washers. I contacted Pilbara Auto in Australia (where I sourced the rings) and he said they do have them in stock and sent me this picture. Apparently there are three different varieties of 12ht rod bearings.
Mine is the style with no oil hole and the tang on the right side of the bearing.
Mine is the style with no oil hole and the tang on the right side of the bearing.
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- #350
Ive been in Ireland and Scotland the last week or so but finally made it back home to get back to work on the 12ht. Before I left I ordered standard size thrust washers from Toyota hoping they would be just a hair thicker however, upon measuring them they came out to be the same thickness as my used ones. Unfortunately oversize washers are discontinued from Toyota so, I did go ahead order some .25 over from pilbara Australia as well as the correct .25 over rod bearings which they had in stock. They came in while I was away so today I opened the package for inspection.
here are the standard size Toyota washers
and here are the .25 over washers I sourced from Pilbara
each washer is .11mm over size
Here are the standard
Factory Toyota washers on top and Pilbara supplied Taiho brand packaged washers on the bottom. Strikingly similar markings...the logo looks like a TH to me so its pretty safe to say that Taiho actually supplies Toyota for these washers. However looks like I did goof up though, I ordered .25 over thrusts which is typically the next size up in bottom end bearings with the exception of the thrusts and cam bearings which are offered in .125 over which is what I actually needed. Bummer looks looks like one more delay. I do however feel good that the washers are original equipment quality.
here are the standard size Toyota washers
and here are the .25 over washers I sourced from Pilbara
each washer is .11mm over size
Here are the standard
Factory Toyota washers on top and Pilbara supplied Taiho brand packaged washers on the bottom. Strikingly similar markings...the logo looks like a TH to me so its pretty safe to say that Taiho actually supplies Toyota for these washers. However looks like I did goof up though, I ordered .25 over thrusts which is typically the next size up in bottom end bearings with the exception of the thrusts and cam bearings which are offered in .125 over which is what I actually needed. Bummer looks looks like one more delay. I do however feel good that the washers are original equipment quality.
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- #352
This is a different engine, the 60 is still together so I can still move it around the driveway under its own power. As soon as I have an engine complete to go back in it, it will go in for its transplant. I have several other projects going and don't want to have it torn apart sitting for a prolonged period of time so I don't get parts and hardware mixed up or forget how something went back together.
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- #353
Had a little bit of free time to work on the engine last night and decided to go ahead and put the .25 over thrust washers in just to check my measurements. They dropped right in so I went ahead and tightened the center main cap and set the dial indicator back up. Prying with a pry bar on the crank I got .005'' of play which is the very center of standard spec. It would somewhat make sense that whenever the last machine shop ground the crank mains and rod pins to .25 under size they also ground it for .25 over thrusts.
I also got my locker mechanism back together for the front axle. I ordered all new parts for the actuator but unfortunately only the cross pin center boot (orange one) cross pin bushings, clips, and actuator o-ring are all that were still available. The rest of the parts were in pretty decent shape so I just reused them. The lever and arm I powder coated, the yellow parts and pins are cad plated and the locker housing I sand blasted and painted with several coats of tractor implement paint. The front axle is now done with the exception of the locking hubs which I'm going to install when I pull the current axle out of the truck. I still need to go through the full float rear cable locked axle but my engine projects as well as Tucker's build has me quiet occupied at the moment.
I also got my locker mechanism back together for the front axle. I ordered all new parts for the actuator but unfortunately only the cross pin center boot (orange one) cross pin bushings, clips, and actuator o-ring are all that were still available. The rest of the parts were in pretty decent shape so I just reused them. The lever and arm I powder coated, the yellow parts and pins are cad plated and the locker housing I sand blasted and painted with several coats of tractor implement paint. The front axle is now done with the exception of the locking hubs which I'm going to install when I pull the current axle out of the truck. I still need to go through the full float rear cable locked axle but my engine projects as well as Tucker's build has me quiet occupied at the moment.
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- #354
Look what arrived this morning from Northern Ireland 
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- #355
Spent a few hours on the rebuild today. Unfortunately the ring compressor i ordered still hasnt made it in so i did what little bit i could. I decided to go ahead and plastigauge the rod bearings while the rings are off and the piston/rod assemblies are easy to move in the cylinder.
here are the new and old rod bearings they are the same brand and size.
#1
here are the new and old rod bearings they are the same brand and size.
#1
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- #356
#6
I found it was easiest to do this two bearings at a time. Here are the next set of caps tightened down
#2
#5
#3
I found it was easiest to do this two bearings at a time. Here are the next set of caps tightened down
#2
#5
#3
- Thread starter
- #357
the last one #4 These are torqued to 65lb. i do them in three steps 22, 44, and the final 65lbs. Happy to see they are all within spec of standard limit.
I went ahead and installed the rings onto the piston assemblies. The new piston ring pliers made it a breeze. The rings are of course clocked per the service manual.
I went ahead and installed the rings onto the piston assemblies. The new piston ring pliers made it a breeze. The rings are of course clocked per the service manual.
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- Thread starter
- #358
I picked up a new oil pump/rear timing gear cover for the build.
Here is the old oil pump, if you look at the left rear corner you can see it's cracked around the bolt hole. Im sure it would have been fine to run as is and wouldnt have caused a leak but I figured it would be a good time to replace it since there is no way to tell how many miles this engine had on it.
You can see both pumps are made by Aisin for Toyota but since i bought the new pump in Aisin packaging the Toyota logo was ground off. This is common practice. The last few Aisin water pumps and master cylinders I've purchased all have had the Toyota logo removed.
Here is the old oil pump, if you look at the left rear corner you can see it's cracked around the bolt hole. Im sure it would have been fine to run as is and wouldnt have caused a leak but I figured it would be a good time to replace it since there is no way to tell how many miles this engine had on it.
You can see both pumps are made by Aisin for Toyota but since i bought the new pump in Aisin packaging the Toyota logo was ground off. This is common practice. The last few Aisin water pumps and master cylinders I've purchased all have had the Toyota logo removed.
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- #359
This is the main oil galley of the 12h-t, this little plug has upwards of 80lbs of oil pressure behind it at times. When i had the block apart i actually wanted to to tap the hole and install a hex type allen plug in it but decided that since the hole is chamfered and stepped there wasnt going to be a good way of doing that. So I installed the factory 18mm plug and tried to put the what if scenario in the back of my mind. Since i was installing the oil pump today i decided to revisit the issue.
This is where the oil galley plug hole meets the oil pump. part of the oil pump flange covers the hole.
I measured the depth of the hole and found this nut that is nearly as deep as the cavity
I measured the depth of the hole and found this nut that is nearly as deep as the cavity
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- #360
some hondabond just to ensure its not going to cause some sort of rattle
oil pump on and the crank gear as well as the two idler gears installed. oil pump is torqued to 18 ftlbs and the idler gear bolts to 34ft lbs. idler gear bolts threads and heads are coated in oil as well as the gears themselves.
oil pump on and the crank gear as well as the two idler gears installed. oil pump is torqued to 18 ftlbs and the idler gear bolts to 34ft lbs. idler gear bolts threads and heads are coated in oil as well as the gears themselves.
