- Thread starter
- #301
Finally some parts trickling in
Builds 1987 fj60 12h-t h55f conversion
- Thread starter roma042987
- Start date
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Doing it right this time, nice! Are you just rebuilding the head and re-sealing the block?
- Thread starter
- #303
Hey hey! It was right the first time! but, inevitably there is no way to foresee a bottom end failure sometimes so, this time around I decided to open it all the way up.
No doubt, that was all out of your hands.. I basically did what you did to your old one plus a head gasket, kinda wishing I went this far but 20k of smiles since the swap so I'm not complaining yet!
- Thread starter
- #305
Well I struck Land Cruiser gold. I wanted to wait until it was official before I posted but money has changed hands and I have TWO new old stock 12ht long blocks headed my way from the other side of the world.
- Thread starter
- #306
Damn.
Start buying more parts before Toyota discontinues them or makes them verboten when they realize their oversight.
Start buying more parts before Toyota discontinues them or makes them verboten when they realize their oversight.
AussieHJCruza
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Stuff yeah! @Indestructible 47
Indestructible 47
SILVER Star
oh. just you wait till I get my hot little hands on one of those!
mind sharing how much they set you back?
mind sharing how much they set you back?
- Thread starter
- #310
So the main and rod bearings were both .25 over sized and in really good shape. I had the machine shop clean and polish the crank and mic the journals for the .25 under sized spec so its ready to go. Cam shaft was cleaned and mic'd as well and I'm good to go with standard size bearings on it.
Toyota bearings or aftermarket Roma?
- Thread starter
- #312
I removed NDC bearings from the crank and ACL brand on the cam. I'm going back with Toyota. Fortunately they are same as 2h so they're readily available.
- Thread starter
- #313
Got all of the hardware replated along with all the injection lines, fuel feed to the filter housing, dip stick tube, pulleys, and oil feed line.
- Thread starter
- #314
Picked up one more piece to the puzzle on my lunch break. New main, rod, and cam bearings. If I can get the block painted this weekend I'll be putting the crank back in the block. Need to find somewhere in town to get some plastigauge to check oil clearances. Last time I asked for plastigage at a regular parts store the parts professionals behind the counter had never heard of it before.
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Plastiguage is not an actual measuring tool, don't do all this good work and then trust a silly crushed plastic straw. Get an the rods actually measured properly.
- Thread starter
- #316
That's entirely unnecessary for a refresh or this kind of rebuild. If the rods needed to resized for some reason it might make sense to measure them like that just to get a ball park idea of what size bearings to order and even then plastigauge would be HIGHLY recommended to check final oil clearance measurements. The only thing measuring the crank and rods and crank and main cap/block journals does is give you target a goal for oil clearances. Plastigauge will give you the ACTUAL clearance. Is it absolutely necessary? No. Im sure the engine would run just fine but, its the only way to do it correctly/thoroughly.
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Did you not have your rods resized?
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- #318
Got the block back from clean up. It received a light hone job and the deck was checked for flatness. I soaked it down with acetone and put a couple of heavy coats of engine enamel on then two coats of clear.
- Thread starter
- #319
Decided to pull the last two freeze plugs. This is the oil galley which is the main artery of the engine so to speak.
- Thread starter
- #320
Last little bugger. This long 3/8 extension came in handy. These two plugs receive full oil pressure so part of me is tempted to track down a hex plug that size and tap the hole.
