One more thing, if you're converting to R134a from R12, you'll need PAG 46 oil, 7 ounces. Also, use an aftermarket drier, the Denso drier is not compatible with R134a.
1987 A/C Compressor help needed. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter WSOPgold2012
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- #22
Im installin all new stuff...not sure if that a conversion. Rock Auto has GPD, Four Seasons and AcDelco...? Whats best?
New Compressor, Condensor and Evaporator anyway
Any of those 3 are ok. Is your mechanic using R12 which is the refrigerant that it originally came with, however, it's harder to get and more expensive than the newer refrigerant R134a. R12 uses A/C specific mineral oil. R134a uses PAG 46 oil and you have to use the oil that matches the refrigerant you're using.
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- #24
Im guessing he will use whatever i source. Which would you suggest?
If it was mine, I’d source some R12 off Craigslist and keep it R12. The good news is that the’60’s work well converted to R134a.
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- #26
woaoaoaoaoao R12 aint cheap...even on CLs lololol
Bingo - exactly why I converted to R134A. Much less expensive. Make sure to put a new Expansion Valve in there also. Good luck! I've been cruising all over with ice cold A/C after making the swap last week. These trucks are like heated greenhouses on wheels in the summer sun - it was brutal, so I was pretty darn motivated to get the A/C working
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- #28
What all did it entail to swap to R134a? If im replacing the Compressor,Condensor and Evaporator...is it really a."swap". Wldnt it be just starting with R134a? Thanks. Fortunately...i spend moat my time between 7000'-9600' elevaton...dnt really need A/C....but i have dreams of a road trip to Panama innthe works
WILL need A/C!
The only real difference is the oil used and the refrigerant. The hard parts are the same. If you get a Denso compressor, it will come with oil for R12. Just drain it and replace with PAG46 and you're good.
I converted to r134a when I had my 2F rebuilt. I replaced the compressor, Dryer, expansion valve, condenser, all the bits mentioned. If I were doing it again, I would make sure the system is sound and use R12. It works better is a system designed for it, although the R134a works fine, but seems to leak from my system. I've read it's because the molecular size diff between R12 vs R134a. I don't know if that's internet BS or a reality, but it does seem to happen in mine. I have not checked for any slow leaks, either. Sys was installed about 10 years ago. I just top it up every summer.
If your AC system is new and tight and you splurge for the R12, you shouldn't have to touch it again for the rest of the time you have the truck, or our Gov't outlaws retail sale of gasoline...
Also, there are R12 Substitutes available today that weren't available when I did mine. You might ask the AC people you're dealing with what they recommend and what's permissible in your State. In CA, I can barely pee without a permit.
If your AC system is new and tight and you splurge for the R12, you shouldn't have to touch it again for the rest of the time you have the truck, or our Gov't outlaws retail sale of gasoline...
Also, there are R12 Substitutes available today that weren't available when I did mine. You might ask the AC people you're dealing with what they recommend and what's permissible in your State. In CA, I can barely pee without a permit.
LazarusTaxa
SILVER Star
I don't believe I've heard that the dryer is freon specific? I am also converting mine to R134 and I sourced a Denso 478-0101 as well as an OEM toyota expansion valve (88645-30250). Will I have issues putting R134 in that system?
According to Toyota's TSB for R12 to R134a conversion, the stock dryer will work fine. I have read you need an aftermarket one, but I have the OE in mine and it cools fine:
(and don't order that 'Retrofit kit' from Toyota, all you get is a bunch of O rings and the two compressor adapters for $90)
(and don't order that 'Retrofit kit' from Toyota, all you get is a bunch of O rings and the two compressor adapters for $90)
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I'm glad it hasn't created a problem and maybe it's not a big deal, but Toyota shows drier 88471-12080 for R134a retrofit and 88470-14010 for R12 applications.
This thread re-hashes the debate on drier compatibility.
This thread re-hashes the debate on drier compatibility.
Ah, interesting - I didn't catch that. I'm sure I used the 14010 Dryer as I didn't know about the retrofit TSB then... Maybe that accounts for the loss of refrigerant?
Is it true that any of the Dryer/Receivers that are painted BLACK are R134a compatible?
I haven't heard that but all of the aftermarket manufacturers I know of use desiccant that's compatible with both. Driers used to have a sticker on them that identified what desiccant was inside.
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- #36
I aint gonna pretend this is easy to follow as a Laydummy.... but im starting to wrap my head around it. Would be an amazin step-by-step sticky for the next lay dummy. Like im not even sure if im just changing out the big 3 components...or all the lines/hoses too...ect ect
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