1985 FJ60 Wagon Horn Problem

[gaylon]

Does the 'brass pin' you guys are referring to have a spring on it?

Whatever 'it' is that has the spring on it, has juice to it.

Assuming the thing with the spring on it is the pin...since it has juice to it, does that mean it is functioning correctly?

How do I know if the horns themselves are shot? How do I test the horns?

So, it has been a while since i did this repair. I think the pin has the juice when it is depressed. If you press it in while putting one lead of the DMM on it and the other on ground, you should see somewhere between 10 and 13 volts.

You could put 12 volts to the horns, but I thought you said they had juice? You can put 12 volts to them directly from the battery, but the horn switch issue we are discussing is so much more likely that I would try it first.

 

[corneld]

I think the pin has the juice when it is depressed.

It has juice to it whether it is pushed in or not.

You could put 12 volts to the horns, but I thought you said they had juice? You can put 12 volts to them directly from the battery, but the horn switch issue we are discussing is so much more likely that I would try it first.

Horns have juice.

There are 2 leads on the horn...how, EXACTLY do I test it?

 

[gaylon]

ground the pin with a wire and the horn should make sound.

The horn has two lead total, right? Sorry been a while since I looked at the horns. The horn should work with ground on one side and 12 volts on the other. Should not matter which.

 

[corneld]

Ok...
1. The horns have juice going to them.
2. I pulled a horn off & tested it; it is LOUD.
3. The brass pin behind the steering wheel has juice.
4. The horns still do not work.

What do I check next? ...please be specific, I am a newbie.

DRC

 

[IrollwithTojo]

Jose, where are you getting your horn from? Ide love to get one as well. (sorry for the hijack)

-Carl

 

[cruzrob]

i had a similar problem w my 60. i took the cover off the steering column and saw that the brass contact wasn't making contact w the horn ring. i didn't feel like taking the steering wheel off, so what i did for a quick fix was i took the small c-clip off the back of spring and contact. horns are working once again. hope that helps. if you need pics let me know and ill try to take some.

 

[corneld]

.... so what i did for a quick fix was i took the small c-clip off the back of spring and contact. horns are working once again.

ok...baby steps for baby feet....

Where is the c-clip? what spring, what contact? At the buttons?

The things I think you are describing (it seems) can only be seen with the steering wheel off.(my steering wheel is off now)

 

[corneld]

Nevermind...I gave up...put the steering wheel back on...put the screws back in...and now the horns work.


Apparently all I had to do was put it back together standing on one leg, while balancing an egg in a spoon.

 

[MrMoMo]

Just fixed the same problem. Pull the wheel off, undo the ring on the back, put washers behind it and screw it back down again. (I used paper washers from 120V outlet cover screws) Works perfect now.

 

[ironfisttiger]

I searched "FJ62 Horn Fix" and "FJ62 Horn Not Working" and this is the first thread that came up so for the FJ62 owners, here are the steps for a thorough cleaning, which fixed mine. My horn would not work in any steering wheel orientation, no matter how the horn pad was depressed but I check the relay and it was getting power to the horns.

1) Gently pry the horn pad off of the steering wheel with your hands, the snap points are at the four corners, go one at a time.
2) Remove the 19mm center bolt holding the steering wheel to the steering shaft. Then remove steering wheel. I gave mine a couple of good jerks, no hand tools or specialty tools needed. Can't speak the same for other vehicles
3) I cleaned the brass ring behind the steering wheel and also the two spring-loaded contact plates (with two contact points each). These are held together by four screws with springs underneath them. I used a slotted screwdriver tip to clean the brass contact points. After this, you could put the wheel back on and without the key in the ignition, depress the steering wheel contact plate and see if your horn works. Mine was good as this point.
4) I took off my steering column cover via the screws below it. The column and the internals needed a good cleaning anyways... so I checked the contact between the spring-loaded brass contact pin of the steering column and the spring-loaded brass ring of the steering wheel. This is where folks here were "shimming" behind the brass ring of the steering wheel. I simply cleaned up the contact points.
5) Make sure you put the wheel back the same way it was before to keep proper wheel-to-shaft alignment.

 

[gregnash]

I searched "FJ62 Horn Fix" and "FJ62 Horn Not Working" and this is the first thread that came up so for the FJ62 owners, here are the steps for a thorough cleaning, which fixed mine. My horn would not work in any steering wheel orientation, no matter how the horn pad was depressed but I check the relay and it was getting power to the horns.

1) Gently pry the horn pad off of the steering wheel with your hands, the snap points are at the four corners, go one at a time.
2) Remove the 19mm center bolt holding the steering wheel to the steering shaft. Then remove steering wheel. I gave mine a couple of good jerks, no hand tools or specialty tools needed. Can't speak the same for other vehicles
3) I cleaned the brass ring behind the steering wheel and also the two spring-loaded contact plates (with two contact points each). These are held together by four screws with springs underneath them. I used a slotted screwdriver tip to clean the brass contact points. After this, you could put the wheel back on and without the key in the ignition, depress the steering wheel contact plate and see if your horn works. Mine was good as this point.
4) I took off my steering column cover via the screws below it. The column and the internals needed a good cleaning anyways... so I checked the contact between the spring-loaded brass contact pin of the steering column and the spring-loaded brass ring of the steering wheel. This is where folks here were "shimming" behind the brass ring of the steering wheel. I simply cleaned up the contact points.
5) Make sure you put the wheel back the same way it was before to keep proper wheel-to-shaft alignment.

Yeah process is pretty basic, and there are a couple other "horn fix" threads out there. The brass pin that makes contact to the steering wheel brass ring that is what helps to complete the circuit for the horn buttons is still available from Mr. T. Hack fix is to add a 22caliber spent shell to the pin as the pin wears down over time and this is part of the reason why the horn stops working (mine for instance).

Depending on how old your truck is and if the steering wheel ever has been removed really determines if step #2 is viable. I yanked and pryed for 20 minutes before I gave up on mine and got the puller tool from my LAPS (rental), proper tool made quick work of it but still required some extra force as it seems that my steering wheel was never removed and stuck in place.

Other than that this is a straight forward and simple job.

 

[yarrie303]

Thanks, I am going to have to go through this too, my horn works only on a sharp left turn. In today's traffic a horn is a must, especially when driving essentially a cross between a tractor/tank/truck.

 

[hj 60]

When 4x4 sillypreppin I carry a lot of stuff including a big axe and chainsaw.
When in the city I dump the 4x4 stuff but keep the big axe and chainsaw.

I need the horn for the roadcheck so ordered the two parts:

PLATE 84312-20011
RING 45176-20030

Must remove steering wheel first so remove plate, loosen (NOT remove) lock nut and tap&pull (slam&swear) on steering wheel to release.

The Horn is not described in the manual, funny Toyota

remove plastic cover, no screws just pull:

just forget about the matchmarks and whine later:

no need to greentight it: