1985 FJ60 Advice (1 Viewer)

[FJACS]

I like threads like these...looking for a reliable fuel efficient commuter car; found a 35 year old solid axle 4x4 that gets single digit mpgs - should I do it?

80k original miles. Yeah, you should probably snap that up while you have a chance. You’ll get over the rest of it .

 

[4Cruisers]

On my past long weekend trips from northern New Mexico to Utah's canyon country I was getting 15-16 mpg pretty consistently.

 

[Seth S]

Got 18 mpg on one tank in my stock 84....but....that was coming out of the Rocky Mountains. Even so 18mpg for pretty much all down hill is an indication of just how fuel efficient these machines are not.

 

[lcwizard]

In the dozen or so 60s I've had, only one got over 15 consistent highway miles. It had no lift, stock tires and a Ranger overdrive.
In fourth gear it would get 14mpg. With the Ranger used as often as possible, from Moab to Phx it got 18
We put on a lift and 33's and the mileage dropped to 12 and 15 respectively. For the places I want to go, 33s, lockers and a lift
are minimum requirements so I live with the mileage. Nothing in it's class can outdo a built Cruiser. I had a Land Cruiser
that got 20 mpg. It was an 87 BJ70 with the 3B 4 cylinder diesel. It was wonderful as long as speed limits were under 50 mph.
The truckers on the interstates have no sympathy for you when you clog the roadways with snails.

 

[racer122]

Ditto. My 85 stock (desmogged) 60, 4 speed on 32s gets 15 on the highway, 13 around town. But I drive like an old man.

 

[jonnyquest]

In the dozen or so 60s I've had, only one got over 15 consistent highway miles. It had no lift, stock tires and a Ranger overdrive.
In fourth gear it would get 14mpg. With the Ranger used as often as possible, from Moab to Phx it got 18
We put on a lift and 33's and the mileage dropped to 12 and 15 respectively. For the places I want to go, 33s, lockers and a lift
are minimum requirements so I live with the mileage. Nothing in it's class can outdo a built Cruiser. I had a Land Cruiser
that got 20 mpg. It was an 87 BJ70 with the 3B 4 cylinder diesel. It was wonderful as long as speed limits were under 50 mph.
The truckers on the interstates have no sympathy for you when you clog the roadways with snails.

I'm considering a conversion of my 60 to SBC and a Ranger. I'm in Mesa AZ. I know emissions will be a factor. What is the availability of OEM driveline and other critical parts for the 60? Are the aftermarket parts equivalent to OEM? Are you still manufacturing bumpers?

 

[doug720]

I think that buying a 60...or any Land Cruiser, and being concerned with MPG is funny!

On the same theme, it's also fun to read the fantastic MPG numbers people claim for a heavy, tall, brick shaped, tractor powered antique going 65 down the highway!

There are lies, then dam lies, then there are statistics, and last...there are MPG claims!

 

[lcwizard]

I'm considering a conversion of my 60 to SBC and a Ranger. I'm in Mesa AZ. I know emissions will be a factor. What is the availability of OEM driveline and other critical parts for the 60? Are the aftermarket parts equivalent to OEM? Are you still manufacturing bumpers?

The closest source for 60 parts would be Tim Hill, in Marana, has a few 60 series being parted out.
This link off our website has many of the cruiser shops listed

4PlusProducts | Special Links

Our 'Special Links' page for businesses who represent and/or support Land Cruiser owners.

www.4plusproducts.com

Yes we still build parts, also on the same website

 

[lcwizard]

I'm considering a conversion of my 60 to SBC and a Ranger. I'm in Mesa AZ. I know emissions will be a factor. What is the availability of OEM driveline and other critical parts for the 60? Are the aftermarket parts equivalent to OEM? Are you still manufacturing bumpers?

The modern, gen 2, gen 3 will get slightly better MPGs than the 2F in a 60. Hope for 17 highway but be happy with 15 highway.
It's the fact that your getting an extra free 80~100 hp without a a loss in mileage that makes it worthwhile. I would never swap
a V-8 into a really good running 60. Wear out the motor first. You can get 300,000 on a well maintained 2F. After 250,000 they seem
to get tired and start going down hill little by little. I haven't personally seen a rebuild get the longevity of a factory brand new motor
and rebuild costs are high. Last motor I had built threw a rod at 17,000 miles. The rods were not replaced. They had 220,00 previous miles. The machine shop had a 12,000 mile warranty. The rebuild had 3400.00 into it and most parts are still used. If you have limited mechanical experience and a limited shop, GM sells a Vortec longblock, brand new parts, for 2400.00. Summit has a Vortec square bore intake that will accept Holley's new Sniper injection and dizzy for under 200.00.
Add belts, accessories, hoses, motormnts, etc and you can have a new motor, relatively simple to build, for 5000.00 or less and a GM 100,000 mile warranty.
Or you can pick through hundred of used parts yard motors for a third of that if you're more mechanically inclined.
Most aftermarket is junk. Stay with brand names if for no other reason they will honor their warranty in the event their parts are junk

 

[jonnyquest]

The modern, gen 2, gen 3 will get slightly better MPGs than the 2F in a 60. Hope for 17 highway but be happy with 15 highway.
It's the fact that your getting an extra free 80~100 hp without a a loss in mileage that makes it worthwhile. I would never swap
a V-8 into a really good running 60. Wear out the motor first. You can get 300,000 on a well maintained 2F. After 250,000 they seem
to get tired and start going down hill little by little. I haven't personally seen a rebuild get the longevity of a factory brand new motor
and rebuild costs are high. Last motor I had built threw a rod at 17,000 miles. The rods were not replaced. They had 220,00 previous miles. The machine shop had a 12,000 mile warranty. The rebuild had 3400.00 into it and most parts are still used. If you have limited mechanical experience and a limited shop, GM sells a Vortec longblock, brand new parts, for 2400.00. Summit has a Vortec square bore intake that will accept Holley's new Sniper injection and dizzy for under 200.00.
Add belts, accessories, hoses, motormnts, etc and you can have a new motor, relatively simple to build, for 5000.00 or less and a GM 100,000 mile warranty.
Or you can pick through hundred of used parts yard motors for a third of that if you're more mechanically inclined.
Most aftermarket is junk. Stay with brand names if for no other reason they will honor their warranty in the event their parts are junk

Thank you for the advice. This circles back to the original post as well and should help him make his decision.

 

[orangefj45]

Hello everyone,

Getting ready to buy a 1985 Royal Blue FJ60 and need some advice. It's a 4 speed with about 80K on it and I am looking to make it a long distance machine. I realize these things are terrible on gas, but I will be using it as a daily (highway) driver and be using it for long road trips.

How much will it cost to upgrade this bad boy to a 5 speed transmission? How much will that improve the fuel economy?

What tips do you have to get the best gas mileage? What changes can I make to the engine, what parts should I change or upgrade?

Eventually, I would like to upgrade to a Chevy Vortec V8. How much will this cost? Should I go with the 5.3 or 5.7L? How do I make sure it will pass CA smog?

Thanks a lot! Any advice would be greatly appreciated

Currently, it’s next to IMPOSSIBLE to complete a CA emissions legal LS or EROD conversion.
I would HIGHLY recommended you ( or anybody else including shops in CA or elsewhere ) do not attempt to do so unless you do LOTS of homework and are 100% aware of what you’re getting into.
Barely any gasser conversions are passing the ref these days. I’d say less than 5%.
We have suspended all LS and EROD conversions for CA at this point.

Want/need better fuel economy?! I’d suggest a 5-speed. Even better ...... a diesel swap.


We can help with those.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers

 

[Mike Tyrrel]

I concur, diesel 5 speed

 

[pv40]

I’ve been quoted 20,000 bones for a Landcruiser shop to do the swap with s Erod motor to pass cal smog. Look into
A 5 speed and adding fuel injection to your 2f. With only 80,000 miles on her drive it. Even if it is from gas station to gas station. Lol.

 

[Cruzerman]

These threads make me smile. You will never get good mileage in a 60. A diesel conversion will give better mileage, but won't pay for itself in savings. If mpg is important, get another rig for the DD and use this for trips / fun. JMHO.

 

[batthewmrown]

Currently, it’s next to IMPOSSIBLE to complete a CA emissions legal LS or EROD conversion.
I would HIGHLY recommended you ( or anybody else including shops in CA or elsewhere ) do not attempt to do so unless you do LOTS of homework and are 100% aware of what you’re getting into.
Barely any gasser conversions are passing the ref these days. I’d say less than 5%.
We have suspended all LS and EROD conversions for CA at this point.

Want/need better fuel economy?! I’d suggest a 5-speed. Even better ...... a diesel swap.


We can help with those.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers

You're basically hearing from the Gandhi of LC's here. Heed his advice. Also, if you're gonna shell out mega coin for the swap, send it to Georg.

 

[Conkhi]

If building a 60 series or any larger 4x4 I would suspect that if swaping a engine fuel economy balance is always a good thing to research. I think the 6l80 transmission is probably one of the better transmissions for these things. I think some of the 5 speed manual transmissions and even some 6 speed manual transmissions have too short of 1st gears to really improve mpg over a 4 speed. Short first gears can help if crawling or towing.

6l80 or 8l90 are great transmissions for getting lower rpms and staying in your engines power band throughout 0-75. Mpg is also important for long road trips in the middle of nowhere. Low end torque is important. Hard to get 400ft lbs of torque to the wheels without spending cash and with keeping mpg in mind. Good mpg goals should be 20. Anything less swap prices will decrease. Some claim 25-30 but that seems unreal to me. Diesel swaps will always cost more but can offer the greatest experience.

 

[pv40]

Currently, it’s next to IMPOSSIBLE to complete a CA emissions legal LS or EROD conversion.
I would HIGHLY recommended you ( or anybody else including shops in CA or elsewhere ) do not attempt to do so unless you do LOTS of homework and are 100% aware of what you’re getting into.
Barely any gasser conversions are passing the ref these days. I’d say less than 5%.
We have suspended all LS and EROD conversions for CA at this point.

Want/need better fuel economy?! I’d suggest a 5-speed. Even better ...... a diesel swap.


We can help with those.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers

What’s the cost of a diesel swap?

 

[4Cruisers]

What’s the cost of a diesel swap?

@CenTXFJ60?

 

[Conkhi]

Diesel swaps will cost roughly the same give or take 3,000$
r.28 $9000
6l80 $3899
6l80 stand alone harness $1500
Misc $2500
Labor varies but should be about the same as a gas.

 

[lcwizard]

You're basically hearing from the Gandhi of LC's here. Heed his advice. Also, if you're gonna shell out mega coin for the swap, send it to Georg.

so true, so true
Indira contemplating her first diesel swap...