1985 FJ60 2f Head Gasket - which OEM part? (1 Viewer)

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Sorry for posting another head gasket topic. Previously I had cheaped out and bought an ITM gasket kit for my engine rebuild. Two months later I’ve finally got all the parts together to reassemble and now I’m second guessing my original purchase decision. No time better than now right!

I’m looking at OEM head gaskets. There are seemingly two OE part #s that work. 11115-61010 and 11115-61030. Both are available at my local Toyota dealer.

From what I can gather the more recent part has some sort of updated coolant passage.

Any opinions here on which one to use?

I’m planning to get OE gaskets for the head, oil pan, inner timing cover (OE seems to have some rubber bonding, ITM all paper), exhaust/intake (or remflex). The other gaskets are all mostly cork which is same as OE. So hopefully I’ll be ok with those.
 
If you have a 10/84 or later use the 61030 (for 2F/3F head). Assuming you have the original engine.

Definitely use the OE gasket
 
FWIW, use the Toyota FIPG black (I forget the part # but it's all over MUD), for the areas where you're sealing in oil, like Oil pan, side cover, etc. You really want to avoid leaks and having to redo any of it.

The Toyota Oil Pan gasket is superior to anything aftermarket, particularly the 4-piece ones.

Also good idea to flatten out and mushroomed surfaces on those various tin covers, from over-tightened bolts.

Good luck.
 
FWIW, use the Toyota FIPG black (I forget the part # but it's all over MUD), for the areas where you're sealing in oil, like Oil pan, side cover, etc. You really want to avoid leaks and having to redo any of it.

The Toyota Oil Pan gasket is superior to anything aftermarket, particularly the 4-piece ones.

Also good idea to flatten out and mushroomed surfaces on those various tin covers, from over-tightened bolts.

Good luck.
So use the FIPG in addition to the cork gaskets for example on the side cover?
 
Yes, I think it's in the FSM, too. On both the oil pan and the side cover, I smear a thin coating of the FIPG and both sides of the gasket, just before install. Be aware, the FIPG (black) cures rock-hard and can be a biatch to get off, but I've never had a leak when using it. I've tried Black RTV sealant and it had the cork gasket squish out. Some use the cork gaskets dry and have no issue... You're call.
 
Yes, I think it's in the FSM, too. On both the oil pan and the side cover, I smear a thin coating of the FIPG and both sides of the gasket, just before install. Be aware, the FIPG (black) cures rock-hard and can be a biatch to get off, but I've never had a leak when using it. I've tried Black RTV sealant and it had the cork gasket squish out. Some use the cork gaskets dry and have no issue... You're call.
Yeah I’m only wanting to do this one time, thanks for your help!
 
@FloTheFJ60 i have the same year as you, and I have a blown head gasket.

Cruiser outfitters has what you need. Just call them up and they can send you a gasket kit.

Also, did you take your head to a machine shop to get it tested? That will really help you know if your head has good valve seals and no cracks!

Good luck man!
 
Sorry, just saw that you are doing an engine rebuild, never mind on the head condition!
 
@FloTheFJ60 i have the same year as you, and I have a blown head gasket.

Cruiser outfitters has what you need. Just call them up and they can send you a gasket kit.

Also, did you take your head to a machine shop to get it tested? That will really help you know if your head has good valve seals and no cracks!

Good luck man!
Thanks, yeah I’ve had the motor on the engine stand for about 3 months. Mine (well actually my wife’s ride) had started burning oil so I figured it was time for a rebuild. Sent my cam out to delta cams in Tacoma wa to clean up some pitting on the lobes, and my original cam broke in half in transit. Fortunately they had a core cam that they were able to repair and I just got that back last week. Anyway the motor has been apart so long that I’ve second guessed some of my original decisions hence this thread.

Just curious I assume you will be reusing your head bolts? I’m used to working on engines in newer cars where everything is torque to yield.
 
Thanks, yeah I’ve had the motor on the engine stand for about 3 months. Mine (well actually my wife’s ride) had started burning oil so I figured it was time for a rebuild. Sent my cam out to delta cams in Tacoma wa to clean up some pitting on the lobes, and my original cam broke in half in transit. Fortunately they had a core cam that they were able to repair and I just got that back last week. Anyway the motor has been apart so long that I’ve second guessed some of my original decisions hence this thread.

Just curious I assume you will be reusing your head bolts? I’m used to working on engines in newer cars where everything is torque to yield.
I will be reusing my head bolts. Is it necessary or recommended to get new head bolts when reinstalling the head?
 

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