1985 4runner 4" lift

[martymart]

I have available to me used front and rear 4" leaf springs, u-bolts, and IFS steering box for a reasonable price for my 1985 4runner. Can I just bolt the springs and go, or do I need to install the IFS steering box and high steer? Do I also need to change the placement of the spring location and longer hangers? I'm a new at this and I thought leaf springs and longer shocks would do the trick, but others are telling me that it is a much bigger job...welding new location for springs, longer hangers, IFS steering box and high steer. I want to do this inepensively, but effectively.

 

[KLF]

It depends.

What vehicle did the springs come off of?

You most likely need to swap to cross-over steering, I doubt the stock push-pull steering will be able to accomodate that much lift, without an extreme drop draglink (unsafe). The torque arm will also have to be replaced (if you keep the stock steering). You're much better doing the crossover steering, but then you're also into buying tie rod & draglink.

 

[CID 96]

On a side note: If the u-bolts are used I would not reuse them, get new ones.

Sid

 

[toy4xfun]

i have a three inch lift and my steering wheel is now 1/4 of a turn to the right so it will be more than that so i would say cross over steer will be needed, or extreme drop link as klf said but cross over would be safer, i did not need extended brake lines but if i went 4" i would have gotten them.

 

[black95]

There are a lot of holes in your question.

We really need to know what kind of lift, or at least how long the springs are. Most cheaper lift kits bolt up in the stock spring mounts and use stock shackles (like pro comp, superlift, etc.) In all reality, if the spring eyes match up and are the same length, the springs will work. Higher arched springs should also use longer shackles, but most economy lifts just get you up higher with very little off road benefit other than added ground clearance.

I personally have a friend who ran an '84 4runner with what I think were rough country 4" springs and kept his stock "J arm" steering for years with no trouble. The lift just beat him to death everytime he went wheeling, so he went to a Marlin Crawler kit, which takes a significant amount of work to install. (I helped, so I know it was a PITA)

So to answer your question, get out a tape measure and see if the springs are the same length, if so, install them and see how the steering does......if you can't keep it on the road, look into crossover steering.

 

[raevenzero]

I have about 5 inches of lift and I am still using the stock steering setup. I will be going to crossover steering soon because I don't trust the stock stuff anymore. I am not using a torque rod but I do have the swaybar connected when on the road with the help of 5" extended swaybar disconnects. My drop link is at enough of an angle to make slight contact with my u-bolt. The do make a z-shaped drop link that cures this problem, but high-steer would be a much more long term solution. I noticed last time I went wheelin that the drop length was limiting the droop of my driver's side tire so crossover will come very soon. You may be able to keep your stock drag link, but I would keep a junkyard spare and spare j-arm in my trail box.

My lift was made up of the original '85 springs and some various springs that provided more arch but still soft. I ended up being about an inch too high for the stock shocks. I got some Edelbrock EAS shocks off of the rear of a 3rd gen 4Runner at the junkyard and I ordered Superlift Superide 85155 shocks for the rear.

Longer brake lines will be needed for that much lift. I extended the front brake lines and was holding off on the rear because I thought I had plenty of slack....that broke a few days after the lift while driving through town.

 

[KLF]

I have about 5 inches of lift and I am still using the stock steering setup.

Wow, I'm surprised to read that. I remember when I first installed the OME springs on my old '84, I got about 3" of lift, and there was no way I could get the stock draglink to work, it would hit the rear U-bolt. I even tried the special flatter low-profile OME U-bolt, but it still hit. I ended up having to get a drop draglink.

I tried it without the torque arm, but the brake steer was scary. I had to lengthen my stock one to get it back installed, but it was worth it.

Yeah, I had to get longer brake lines too.

 

[raevenzero]

Mine isn't too bad...it barely contacts the u-bolt when sitting level. Some have recommended that I do a ball flip and just keep running it like that, but I want to do a high-steer and forget about it.

The steering isn't too bad when braking since I went from springs that were negative to springs that had some strength to them. I do notice a little pull but no more than I am used to with fighting my rear locker. Adding a 1" bore master cylinder and making sure my rear brakes were properly adjusted has helped a lot. It rides much better now than it did 3 years ago when I bought it.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Wow, I'm surprised to read that. I remember when I first installed the OME springs on my old '84, I got about 3" of lift, and there was no way I could get the stock draglink to work, it would hit the rear U-bolt. I even tried the special flatter low-profile OME U-bolt, but it still hit. I ended up having to get a drop draglink.

I tried it without the torque arm, but the brake steer was scary. I had to lengthen my stock one to get it back installed, but it was worth it.

Yeah, I had to get longer brake lines too.

I had the exact same experience when I installed OME springs on my 85.

 

[missouriman]

i have a three inch lift and my steering wheel is now 1/4 of a turn to the right so it will be more than that so i would say cross over steer will be needed, or extreme drop link as klf said but cross over would be safer, i did not need extended brake lines but if i went 4" i would have gotten them.

no need, stock are easier to get.

I have at least two dropped drag links in the garage, make me an offer.

 

[raevenzero]

Is that at full droop because it is already looking short.

I used brake lines from a Kia to extend my stock lines. It just softens your pedal with the extra volume requirement which presents the need for the 1" MC.