1985 2f engine pull and replacement thread (1 Viewer)

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Jul 26, 2017
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Castle Rock, CO
So after my bad cylinder discovery, see: Bad compression on number 6 I need to pull my engine and either rebuild it or have it rebuilt. I'll try and update this thread with the process, but I'm sure I'll have more questions than answers. I'm going to try and go this week to pick up a cherry picker and engine stand. I have searched for some threads on pulling the engine and I have the FSM's but they aren't super clear on the steps to pulling the engine out. Am I missing a section that has these steps? Aside from that I plan on disconnecting the engine from the transfer case before I pull it, I don't want to pull it all as one.

I understand removing the grill and radiator and core support and disconnecting hoses, but what accessories should I plan on removing from the engine before I pull it? I also read something about the A/C condenser that I don't quite understand, right now my AC blows ice cold and I'd really like to keep it that way :). Thanks all for the great help so far and in the future.
 
Ready to be torn into!

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If you remove your front bumper, the condenser will hang down out of the way without opening the system. Your AC compressor needs to be removed from the engine to do this. Just tie strap the compressor to the inner fender, passenger side. Of course you need to remove the battery to make room and to get at the dryer bolts. You can leave all other accessories attached to the engine until after it is removed. Just a side note, I have found that most engine stands will not bolt up to the 2F block. I had to make a plate that I attached to the block and then to the stand. I have a lot of info in my build thread, which is in my signature line. Good luck with the rebuild. The online FSMs are your best friend. Read them over and over and you will be able to do the job start to finish. I had never rebuilt a car/truck engine before and it went smoothly. Over 9000 miles now and not one problem. Make sure to source a GOOD machinist before you tear it down and check their time frame for completion. Feel free to PM me with questions. I am helping another Mud member rebuild his engine right now, so it is all really fresh in my mind again.:cheers:
 
I recently pulled a 3f and auto trans+ transfer case [still attached] from a 89 fj62.
I could not see any way of keeping the ac system intact, so had to evacuate it and disconnect some pipes.
I am not sure if the engine, once disconnected from the trans will lift out without removing the grill ect.
good luck.
 
If you gave a friend or spouse or whatnot, a stretch of 2x4 wood and a cable attached at opposing corners of the head will lift it right up. I did it w/ a friend who was vastly taller than me and I was amazed at how easy. And later for moving it around just make a sling of fabric around your torso and it’s easy to move as well.
Simple body mechanics.
Sorry, my mistake. Your pulling the whole kit and kaboodle.
I’ll keep watching and zip it.
 
Hi, Evacuate the ac ,any shop can do it. Remove front grill and middle support of core support. Disconnect wiring ,radiator,condenser,and hoses , air cleaner hose ,fuel line . Remove exhaust pipe from motor. Remove front drive shaft ,pull transmission and engine togeather .Now check for things missed .check craigslist for engine stand,rent or borrow a engine puller and leveler for it. The leveler makes it MUCH easier to pull the engine. Engine is very heavy go slow and have plenty of room to maneuver . Helper is advised . Mike
 
Thanks so much for the input, it helps a lot. I was gonna try and evacuate the A/C myself, but I do have a good local shop that can probably do it. I might do that while I'm waiting on getting my cherry picker and stand.
 
You don’t have to fully remove the AC, but it might make things a little easier to have it out of the way. I just zip tied mine out of the way like someone else mentioned so I wouldn’t have to evacuate and refill later. I was able to pull the engine and put it back in that way
 
@FJACS I keep going back and forth about this. While I'm taking the time I plan on swapping to an H55f and rebuilding the transfer case. Sooooo....maybe if i can find a big enough hoist with a leveler, i might chance it. Otherwise, i'll leave the tranny and transfer in the truck.
 
If you can get someone to lend a hand on engine pull/engine replace day, then the two of you can pull the whole enchilada (engine + tranny) in one piece. If you're doing it all by yourself, (for the first time) personally I wouldn't recommend pulling the whole monster all by yourself. It's extremely heavy, long and unwieldy. One guy needs to operate the hoist while the other needs to guide the engine. Use a STRONG hoist if you've got a choice (2T). One rental hoist I used (1T) a long time ago looked like it was going to snap! Bent a lot. It worked but it looked sketchy.

Some guys have pulled the whole assembly by themselves, but most have experience. I personally wouldn't do it (after helping a friend) seeing what's involved. I'd split them if doing it alone. It's WAY easier to deal with - but then you'll need a tranny jack.
 
Just use a tie down ratchet strap under the tranny to support it while the engine is out. Wrap it around the frame and craddle the trans and t-case. You do not have to remove the cross member,just loosen the two tranny mount bolts so it will tilt a little.
 
Maybe I missed something but if you’re just rebuilding your head you don’t need to pull the whole engine out. Just the head.

Use a 2x4 with a ratchet or chain strapped to the head. I had my 14 year old daughter in one end and like was on the other. We pulled it right out without a problem.

It went back in the same way.
 
Maybe I missed something but if you’re just rebuilding your head you don’t need to pull the whole engine out. Just the head.

Use a 2x4 with a ratchet or chain strapped to the head. I had my 14 year old daughter in one end and like was on the other. We pulled it right out without a problem.

It went back in the same way.
He’s gotta pull the whole thing. I did the same thing and read it as only top end. He has a potential gouged cylinder which means the rings are bad on that piston.
 
Maybe I missed something but if you’re just rebuilding your head you don’t need to pull the whole engine out. Just the head.

Use a 2x4 with a ratchet or chain strapped to the head. I had my 14 year old daughter in one end and like was on the other. We pulled it right out without a problem.

It went back in the same way.

Unfortunately, when I did my leak down test and listened for the leaks, there was a ton of air coming through the dipstick tube. I made sure several times that the cylinder was at tdc and it looks like I'm gonna have to pull the whole thing. Oh well, i've always wanted to rebuild an engine.
 
Unfortunately, when I did my leak down test and listened for the leaks, there was a ton of air coming through the dipstick tube. I made sure several times that the cylinder was at tdc and it looks like I'm gonna have to pull the whole thing. Oh well, i've always wanted to rebuild an engine.
Got it! Good luck with it. I’m sure it will be a great experience.
 
Quick update. I haven't made much progress, did I mention I have a 2 year old and one on the way? That combined with work makes it hard to get out there and I am still looking for an engine hoist. I did start draining the coolant, and start taking pieces of the front. Headlight trim, grill, lower grill sheetmetal, and battery tray are all off. I assume that those who keep the A/C circuit intact leave the condenser attached and hanging down? just trying to do it with out damaging the lines.

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