Build 1984 Pickup Rebuild
- Thread starter Mudder
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- Thread starter
- #502
Following up on this, that brake setup doesn’t work on the 9.5Ti. The hex shaft in the kit is a much smaller diameter and wouldn’t work without extensive changes. I ended up clocking mine again and I’ll see if that works. If not, my plan is to rip the bumper off and modify for an 8274 I have.pretty certain this is the brake kit. but if the shoes aren't damaged, it just needs pretentioned properly.
Warn 32455 WINCH ACCESSORIES | eBay
This Warn Industries Winch Brake is used with M8000, VR8000 and XD9000 winches. .www.ebay.com
Factory 9.5Ti on top and the Warn replacement kit on the bottom
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- #504
I appreciate the help with trying to figure something out on it. Truthfully I would’ve probably been better off to not rebuild the 9.5Ti and go with a M8000 or the 8274 due to the lack of parts availability for the 9.5Ti but then again where’s the fun in that? I’m hoping to test the winch here in a couple weeks to see if I got the brake tensioned correctly this time or if it’s just toast.
- Thread starter
- #505
Decided to say screw it and that the truck is getting boosted this year. Driving on the interstate at 70 and loosing speed due to hills and head winds (combined) is frustrating as I’m spoiled by the other vehicles I have that always have power and I just can’t stand having crappy passing power at 70 mph. A lot of this frustration probably comes from how heavy my flatbed is and causing the “lack of performance” in finding either the 3rz.
I debated for a long time between Supercharger or a Turbo and I just couldn’t bring myself to stomach the supercharger cost at $4k plus gauges, and it takes power to make power vs the performance of a turbo and having way more potential in the long term if I ever want more HP. The more HP ended up being the key for me as I’ve been talking about possibly acquiring a 4Runner to replace this truck so there more space when off road and for if/when the family expands, plus I have no interest in a 3.4 swap if I get a 4Runner. It’s either getting this drivetrain or I’m going away from Toyota to stuff that’s got better aftermarket support. Building Toyota stuff has gotten stupid expensive imo.
The ease of install of the supercharger, that the low boost is carb certified, and the fact that I want something between 4-8 PSI is almost what sold it for me but in the end I kept coming back to some of the comments BoostedKa on Tacomaworld said about his experience with Turbo vs Supercharger 3rz. So I decided to put together my own turbo kit for cheaper than LCEs and IMO better than their turbo kit. So far I’m looking at about $2800 compared to the $3250 for LCEs and my cost includes a gauge pillar, boost gauge, and AFR gauge.
Specs are a used GT3076
Compressor:
Wheel: 76.2mm w/ 56 trim
Housing A/R: .60 a/r
Housing Style: 4" anti-surge inlet w/ 2" outlet
Turbine / Exhaust:
Wheel: 60mm w/ 84 trim
Housing: .82 a/r Tial V band housing that’s cerakoted black
View attachment 4077022
The turbo will be water cooled with -6 AN lines running to the heater core hoses and it’ll get a -4AN feed line and a -10AN drain line. It’ll also get a 44mm wastegate set to 6 psi and possible 330cc fuel injectors as they’re within the 20% that the computer can trim, if needed. Expected spool is around 2500 rpm and if I’m not happy it’s where it’s at I’ll drop the exhaust housing to a .62 a/r
I’ll make my own downpipe and I’m debating between using stainless steel and buying the wire and gas or just using aluminized pipe to a stainless v band flange and calling it good for now.
I ended up going with a Future Fabracation turbo manifold that was actually test fit in the 84-88 Toyota body style. I like it because it angles the turbo and should help with fitting a 3” downpipe in the engine bay easier.
futurefabrication.com
I also got my drivelines ordered from Tom Woods. Rear is 39 5/16” .120” wall tube double Cardan joint and the front is their standard slip driveline that’s 33 5/8” double cardan as well.
The final touch i wanted to do to my dual cases was a set of NWFab shift handles. I’ll have to run an adapter for the stock shifter but with how good these look I don’t even mind.
View attachment 4076977
I debated for a long time between Supercharger or a Turbo and I just couldn’t bring myself to stomach the supercharger cost at $4k plus gauges, and it takes power to make power vs the performance of a turbo and having way more potential in the long term if I ever want more HP. The more HP ended up being the key for me as I’ve been talking about possibly acquiring a 4Runner to replace this truck so there more space when off road and for if/when the family expands, plus I have no interest in a 3.4 swap if I get a 4Runner. It’s either getting this drivetrain or I’m going away from Toyota to stuff that’s got better aftermarket support. Building Toyota stuff has gotten stupid expensive imo.
The ease of install of the supercharger, that the low boost is carb certified, and the fact that I want something between 4-8 PSI is almost what sold it for me but in the end I kept coming back to some of the comments BoostedKa on Tacomaworld said about his experience with Turbo vs Supercharger 3rz. So I decided to put together my own turbo kit for cheaper than LCEs and IMO better than their turbo kit. So far I’m looking at about $2800 compared to the $3250 for LCEs and my cost includes a gauge pillar, boost gauge, and AFR gauge.
Specs are a used GT3076
Compressor:
Wheel: 76.2mm w/ 56 trim
Housing A/R: .60 a/r
Housing Style: 4" anti-surge inlet w/ 2" outlet
Turbine / Exhaust:
Wheel: 60mm w/ 84 trim
Housing: .82 a/r Tial V band housing that’s cerakoted black
View attachment 4077022
The turbo will be water cooled with -6 AN lines running to the heater core hoses and it’ll get a -4AN feed line and a -10AN drain line. It’ll also get a 44mm wastegate set to 6 psi and possible 330cc fuel injectors as they’re within the 20% that the computer can trim, if needed. Expected spool is around 2500 rpm and if I’m not happy it’s where it’s at I’ll drop the exhaust housing to a .62 a/r
I’ll make my own downpipe and I’m debating between using stainless steel and buying the wire and gas or just using aluminized pipe to a stainless v band flange and calling it good for now.
I ended up going with a Future Fabracation turbo manifold that was actually test fit in the 84-88 Toyota body style. I like it because it angles the turbo and should help with fitting a 3” downpipe in the engine bay easier.
Future Fabrication 3rz-fe Turbo Manifold
Quality exhaust manifold fabrication.
I also got my drivelines ordered from Tom Woods. Rear is 39 5/16” .120” wall tube double Cardan joint and the front is their standard slip driveline that’s 33 5/8” double cardan as well.
The final touch i wanted to do to my dual cases was a set of NWFab shift handles. I’ll have to run an adapter for the stock shifter but with how good these look I don’t even mind.
View attachment 4076977
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #506
The Suma Performance mirrors finally came in this month. These aren’t the best photos but they definitely give a better view than the stock mirror glass. Once the rain stops I’ll take the old glass and put it next to the new glass for better photos. I love that these mirrors have anti-glare on them and that they are heated but I don’t think I’d be willing to pay $220 for them, especially if they weren’t in stock. I pre-ordered these on 11/13/25 for $165 and don’t get the until 2/19/26 while the pre-order expect ship date was end of December to mid January. They didn’t give any updates until I sent an email that the shipping across the sea was taking longer than expected and they had to wait on customs. I’ll admit that I may be personally jaded as this is the second thing in less than a year that I’ve bought that didn’t ship in the time frame promised and no communication efforts were made until I made contact
I did end up getting a set of used pink tops and sent them out for cleaning. They’ll be a good upgrade with the turbo and flowed a bit more than I expected which is nice, I was expecting closer to 315 cc/min. The brown tops I’m currently running are 290 cc/min while the cleaned pink tops are 320 cc/min.
I did end up getting a set of used pink tops and sent them out for cleaning. They’ll be a good upgrade with the turbo and flowed a bit more than I expected which is nice, I was expecting closer to 315 cc/min. The brown tops I’m currently running are 290 cc/min while the cleaned pink tops are 320 cc/min.
littlevulture
SILVER Star
Mirrors look good, bummer about the shipping...I hate when that happens.
- Thread starter
- #508
The shipping bummed me out. I don’t like preordering things for this reason. I still need to pull them off and grind down the mounting areas like you did. I’m also thinking of adding some extra sheet metal to brace the mirrors more. My drivers side doesn’t move much but my passenger side does shake a bit since the door is more damaged.
littlevulture
SILVER Star
I'm actually thinking about doing something similar, revising the mounting setup and adding some internal bracing cause mine shake around quite a bit and I think it'll be worse with the diesel. My doors are actually deforming a little around the mirror cause the sheet metal isn't reinforced enough.
- Thread starter
- #510
The 3rz-fe has officially become a 3rz-fte and dual cases have been installed. I first started to install the turbo, got the down pipe mocked up and then realized I needed to finish the dual case install so I could route the exhaust.
These were most of the fittings I used. The turbo I'm running is also water cooled so I used the T-Fittings to tie into the heater core lines. I did one before the heater valve and one after the heater core on the return side. The fitting for the turbo feed is a M18x1.5. I ended up having to order one off of eBay and cut it down to fit the port.
RAD design Triple sticks installed. These are nice but you definalty want to check the clearances and make sure they aren;'t gonna break on you. I'm asssuming I had a one off but the arm for the 4.7 gears broke off after i got it all installed. I ended up pulling it out and welding it back on.
Sky's crossmember that was powder coated black looks amazing under there and the Tom Wood's drivelines fit perfectly. I didn't have to clearance the horseshoe part of the crossmember for the double cardan joint at the t-case either.
I have to give Harbor Freight a shoutout for making an affordable portable bandsaw. $200 for the saw and blades and it worked perfectly. I wanted a battery powered one but I couldn't justify the $400 price tag on the Milwaukee one since it's the batteries I have.
Turbo in place. The GT3076R with a .82 A/R housing will start spooling around 2300-2500 and be full boost by 3200. I can cruise comfortable so far with the 5 lbs wastegate spring I have installed.
Had to hammer part of the downpipe for clearance. Truthfully I should've done a 2.5" downpipe instead of a 3" but I only had 12 days to get all of this done so I used what I had on hand.
Wrapped in header wrap from DEI. Not a fan of it personally but I needed a way to control the heat, worst case this downpipe rusts out and I have an excuse for make one out of 2.5" pipe and save myself a headache or 5. I spent 4 days working on the downpipe and exhaust.
These were most of the fittings I used. The turbo I'm running is also water cooled so I used the T-Fittings to tie into the heater core lines. I did one before the heater valve and one after the heater core on the return side. The fitting for the turbo feed is a M18x1.5. I ended up having to order one off of eBay and cut it down to fit the port.
RAD design Triple sticks installed. These are nice but you definalty want to check the clearances and make sure they aren;'t gonna break on you. I'm asssuming I had a one off but the arm for the 4.7 gears broke off after i got it all installed. I ended up pulling it out and welding it back on.
Sky's crossmember that was powder coated black looks amazing under there and the Tom Wood's drivelines fit perfectly. I didn't have to clearance the horseshoe part of the crossmember for the double cardan joint at the t-case either.
I have to give Harbor Freight a shoutout for making an affordable portable bandsaw. $200 for the saw and blades and it worked perfectly. I wanted a battery powered one but I couldn't justify the $400 price tag on the Milwaukee one since it's the batteries I have.
Turbo in place. The GT3076R with a .82 A/R housing will start spooling around 2300-2500 and be full boost by 3200. I can cruise comfortable so far with the 5 lbs wastegate spring I have installed.
Had to hammer part of the downpipe for clearance. Truthfully I should've done a 2.5" downpipe instead of a 3" but I only had 12 days to get all of this done so I used what I had on hand.
Wrapped in header wrap from DEI. Not a fan of it personally but I needed a way to control the heat, worst case this downpipe rusts out and I have an excuse for make one out of 2.5" pipe and save myself a headache or 5. I spent 4 days working on the downpipe and exhaust.
- Thread starter
- #511
There isn't a lot of room where the turbo oil feed is if you're also running an aftermarket oil pressure sensor and the factory one. I ended up using a 90° adapter from home depot and make it work.
This is how the exhaust routes. It seems to contact the front driveline a little bit on the initial test drive but I hadn't clamped it down fully.
I cut the factory 3rz downpipe clamp to help support the exhaust at the bell housing. I had to add the nut behind to get it spaced out properly then I used a 2" clamp to secure it.
This is it fully installed. I need to get actual heat wrap that has velcro so the MAF wires don't look so crappy but I needed a quick way to protect them so I just cut open the DEI heat shield.
Interior photo of the triple sticks with NWFab shifters. Had to use a M12 to 1/2 adapter for the stock Toyota shifter and then used some jam nuts to secure the other two so they were facing the correct position.
This is how the exhaust routes. It seems to contact the front driveline a little bit on the initial test drive but I hadn't clamped it down fully.
I cut the factory 3rz downpipe clamp to help support the exhaust at the bell housing. I had to add the nut behind to get it spaced out properly then I used a 2" clamp to secure it.
This is it fully installed. I need to get actual heat wrap that has velcro so the MAF wires don't look so crappy but I needed a quick way to protect them so I just cut open the DEI heat shield.
Interior photo of the triple sticks with NWFab shifters. Had to use a M12 to 1/2 adapter for the stock Toyota shifter and then used some jam nuts to secure the other two so they were facing the correct position.
littlevulture
SILVER Star
No intercooler? I've spent a large part of today measuring and trying to decide where I can fit one for the TDI while also installing an AC condenser.
- Thread starter
- #513
No intercooler for now. I’m hoping at 5 psi I don’t need one but maybe down the road I’ll install one. There’s very little room for fitting intercooler tubes in the engine bay so if I do an intercooler I’m going to have to figure out a bunch of routing if I want to keep it high in the engine bay
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- #514
I did add a catch can and gutted the PCV valve so now all the intake pressure is going to it. I was throwing some good crankcase pressure when I first fired it up. Now I'm battling a P0172. Not really sure the direction to go/if it can be troubleshot using the FSM with the turbo. Gonna do some digging on that one. Already replace the front O2 sensor with a new Denso one from O'Reillys as my old one had exposed wires and it didn't solve it. I'm wondering if maybe my rollercoaster of an intake is causing issues with the MAF sensor and I'll end up needing to run an open element air filter. I'm against open element air filters that are oiled so I'll be figuring something out.
are you using a drop in maf or the tube style?
the tube style are definitely more troublesome.
as far as unoiled open elements.im using injen and their dust cover thing
what does your scanner show the o2 doing? is it buried or just lazy?
the tube style are definitely more troublesome.
as far as unoiled open elements.im using injen and their dust cover thing
what does your scanner show the o2 doing? is it buried or just lazy?
- Thread starter
- #516
@gnob First I wanted to say thank you for your triple stick install video bending them worked like a charm on my truck.
It is a drop in MAF. The scanner is showing the front O2 sensor is responding pretty quickly. But I’m wondering if it’s because I have my fuel pressure regulator plumbed before the throttle body instead of after so it’s running too rich at idle (that’s when it seems to be tripping so far). Today I’ll be driving it back to PDX so I’ll get better data, it’s only been short trips so far.
It is a drop in MAF. The scanner is showing the front O2 sensor is responding pretty quickly. But I’m wondering if it’s because I have my fuel pressure regulator plumbed before the throttle body instead of after so it’s running too rich at idle (that’s when it seems to be tripping so far). Today I’ll be driving it back to PDX so I’ll get better data, it’s only been short trips so far.
- Thread starter
- #517
At idle it seems like my STFT and LTFT are really jacked up. It’s making me wonder if pink tops might be too much with my ECU
- Thread starter
- #520
Took some more screen shots. I’ve read a few people have issues with their pink tops so I may throw my old injectors back in and see what they do. If I had an air leak after the MAF I think I’d see a positive fuel trim.
Cruising speed
Idle
2500 in neutral
Cruising speed
Idle
2500 in neutral