Build 1984 Pickup Rebuild
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- #522
I’ll be trying that once it’s running again. Had the oil feed line get melted by the exhaust manifold due to how I had it routed.
Does anyone know if the red circles port on the 3rz oil filter housing is pre or post oil filter? Currently running the feed line off of the front port (blue circle) and thinking of ways to reroute the feed line so I don’t almost burn the truck down again.
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- #523
To follow up, the back port is unfiltered is what I’ve found. I plan on running a TurboSmart Oil Pressure regulator so it won’t matter as it’s internally filtered. I believe my P0172 code was due to the fuel injectors. I got one good drive in before I melted the oil feed line and had LTFT and STFT well under the 25%.
However, I made the tough choice to remove the turbo kit for the time being. Even with 5 psi the truck drove so much better but with my current living situation I can’t work on the truck and it is my daily with no back up. Hopefully that’ll change later this year and I can reinstall the turbo and have time to mess with it while having a backup rig off needed. For now I’ll enjoy the dual cases I’ve been dreaming up building since 2013.
However, I made the tough choice to remove the turbo kit for the time being. Even with 5 psi the truck drove so much better but with my current living situation I can’t work on the truck and it is my daily with no back up. Hopefully that’ll change later this year and I can reinstall the turbo and have time to mess with it while having a backup rig off needed. For now I’ll enjoy the dual cases I’ve been dreaming up building since 2013.
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- #524
Had some extra time yesterday so I stopped and weighted the truck, heavier than I thought it was but I don’t mind the 55/45 split. The only thing I really noticed is I’m 45 pounds away from exceeding the front axle GAWR and still have 1060 for the rear axle. Over all I’m still under the GVWR of 4800 pounds.
One thing I want to figure out is a better way for the middle stick on my triples. It’s way far back in high range. I’m thinking either cut and weld it or maybe try and turn it but then I think it’ll hit my transmission stick on low range. I also need to find some time an energy to straighten the three sticks so they’re even
One thing I want to figure out is a better way for the middle stick on my triples. It’s way far back in high range. I’m thinking either cut and weld it or maybe try and turn it but then I think it’ll hit my transmission stick on low range. I also need to find some time an energy to straighten the three sticks so they’re even
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- #526
Sitting at work bored has made me really start looking into redoing the rear suspension on this truck. I’m tired of the vertical shackle angle and it riding like crap. The two options I have in mind are:
1) Chevy 63 kit
2) Custom rear springs from Alcan
The Chevy 63’s are a swap everyone and their mother knows but my only issue is they aren’t “cheap” anymore. About $250 for a set of rear springs and $300 for the swap kit from Sky’s since I’d need a new rear u block flip plate. The other issue is, I’d have to trial and error the leaf packs to make it the height I need. Not that it’s a big deal. I’d probably start with 2500 HD springs with an overload and go from there since I have the heavy flatbed.
The Alcan option would be to get some springs that are 48” eye to eye to replace the current OME ones that are 45” eye to eye. Just eye balling it, it looks like it would give me close to a 45 degree shackle angle. I’d add the 3” to the rear of the leaf springs so it would keep the pin and the front eyelet in the factory location. This would allow me to not have to change the tom woods driveline. The other advantage is they can build the springs to fit the truck in terms of the heavy flatbed and extra gear I’ll have eventually. My rear weight doesn’t include a spare tire or any recovery gear/camping gear. I don’t have a price yet but I do have a quote in with Alcan to see.
I also could move the rear hanger forward and not spend any money but if I’m going through the effort of cutting and welding the work to do 63’s isn’t that much more.
1) Chevy 63 kit
2) Custom rear springs from Alcan
The Chevy 63’s are a swap everyone and their mother knows but my only issue is they aren’t “cheap” anymore. About $250 for a set of rear springs and $300 for the swap kit from Sky’s since I’d need a new rear u block flip plate. The other issue is, I’d have to trial and error the leaf packs to make it the height I need. Not that it’s a big deal. I’d probably start with 2500 HD springs with an overload and go from there since I have the heavy flatbed.
The Alcan option would be to get some springs that are 48” eye to eye to replace the current OME ones that are 45” eye to eye. Just eye balling it, it looks like it would give me close to a 45 degree shackle angle. I’d add the 3” to the rear of the leaf springs so it would keep the pin and the front eyelet in the factory location. This would allow me to not have to change the tom woods driveline. The other advantage is they can build the springs to fit the truck in terms of the heavy flatbed and extra gear I’ll have eventually. My rear weight doesn’t include a spare tire or any recovery gear/camping gear. I don’t have a price yet but I do have a quote in with Alcan to see.
I also could move the rear hanger forward and not spend any money but if I’m going through the effort of cutting and welding the work to do 63’s isn’t that much more.
48" springs "might" suck no matter who makes them. Even the slightly longer factory springs my son's 91 pickup had were a noticeably better ride than my 48" OEM 88 springs. I'd go longer than the stock 48's.
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- #528
The later model trucks use a 51” spring but that would still require a shackle hanger change which wouldn’t be bad and might be a good in between of the 63s and stock springs.
Edited to add, there’s almost the F150 springs from a 87-95 2wd I could use. They’re 57” so it wouldn’t affect departure angle as much as 63’s. Not like this truck is much of a rock crawler but something I do like to keep in mind.
Edited to add, there’s almost the F150 springs from a 87-95 2wd I could use. They’re 57” so it wouldn’t affect departure angle as much as 63’s. Not like this truck is much of a rock crawler but something I do like to keep in mind.
I've heard and read good things about the 87-95 Ford F-150 2wd springs. If you care about keeping it all Toyota, another possible option could be running a Tacoma leaf pack. Pretty sure 1st gen to 3rd gen tacos all have spring measurements of 55" - 56" ish but they may have some variation in the measurements from the center pin to front/rear eye.
An Australian dude on youtube made a series of videos about converting his comp Hilux from the 51" Toyota springs to the more modern 55" Hilux springs. The spring packs are likely different but seems like Toyota is making similar length spring for Tacoma and Hilux. In the first few minutes of the first video, he discusses the different spring lengths (in mm, of course). In the second video, he's flexing it out. Obviously it sounds like ride quality is your priority over flex but just throwing in another option for you to consider.
An Australian dude on youtube made a series of videos about converting his comp Hilux from the 51" Toyota springs to the more modern 55" Hilux springs. The spring packs are likely different but seems like Toyota is making similar length spring for Tacoma and Hilux. In the first few minutes of the first video, he discusses the different spring lengths (in mm, of course). In the second video, he's flexing it out. Obviously it sounds like ride quality is your priority over flex but just throwing in another option for you to consider.
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- #530
@The Toad I’ll keep that one in mind! I’ll start researching the spring lengths of the Tacomas. I think Deaver makes leaf springs for a Tacoma and I’ve always heard good things about them
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- #531
Took the truck out for a mountain drive in the Tillamook forest. Didn’t do any wheeling as I just wanted to look around and get a feel for the area. I’ve replaced the old tool box with a nice Weather guard one and having the space is nice. It was able to hold all the recovery stuff, shovels, fire extinguishers and still had plenty of space.
I did have some issues have come up though. First is that the exhaust and front driveline rub on each other. It may be time to just pay an exhaust shop and have it all redone and ran down the passenger side and cross over to the drivers side behind the transfer case.
Second issues is the front locker was hit and miss. Since I was on gravel I wanted to exercise them and the front seems to be clicking on and off so I need to check out the wiring harness. Sometimes the steering would try and go straight and other times it was steering like normal is why I’m guessing this.
Third and probably the most annoying is the rebuilt W56 is popping out of 4th gear on decel. I can’t even go 1/4 mile down a hill without it popping out. So I sent an email to Yota1 about it and will see what they say. If it comes down to it I may just pull it apart myself and replace the synchros on 4th and call it good as I’m guessing shipping for warranty work is gonna cost half of the cost of another rebuilt one.
I did have some issues have come up though. First is that the exhaust and front driveline rub on each other. It may be time to just pay an exhaust shop and have it all redone and ran down the passenger side and cross over to the drivers side behind the transfer case.
Second issues is the front locker was hit and miss. Since I was on gravel I wanted to exercise them and the front seems to be clicking on and off so I need to check out the wiring harness. Sometimes the steering would try and go straight and other times it was steering like normal is why I’m guessing this.
Third and probably the most annoying is the rebuilt W56 is popping out of 4th gear on decel. I can’t even go 1/4 mile down a hill without it popping out. So I sent an email to Yota1 about it and will see what they say. If it comes down to it I may just pull it apart myself and replace the synchros on 4th and call it good as I’m guessing shipping for warranty work is gonna cost half of the cost of another rebuilt one.
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- #532
Been trying to get the front locker to act up and it hasn’t, I’m wondering if it was working but I just didn’t notice since most of the time I exercise it it’s in pavement so I’m chalking that up to my own stupidity. I also talked with Yota1 and sent them a bunch of photos, they’re sending me a new 3/4 shift spring to see if that’ll solve the issues. I’m hoping it does but I’m not sure I believe it will. If it doesn’t we’ll see how the warranty process goes.
I’ve been chasing a rattle on the passenger side for a while now and it finally got bad enough I start tearing s*** apart to find it. At first I thought it was the cruise control computer so I moved that with no change. Finally on the drive up the GF noticed that the vent wheel was moving on its own. Had her apply some pressure when the noise would happen and sure enough that was the problem. I popped the vent out and used a sanded down washer to remove the slack and it’s fixed the rattling noise!
Finally took a look at the exhaust and driveline situation. I think I’m going to copy @liveoak and run it down the passenger side and cross over under the rear driveline to make it work. The only other option is to run it below the front driveline but then it’s just going to get smashed. I’m planning on going to 2.5” exhaust when I put the turbo back on and there ain’t enough room with how low of a lift I run. I only have 3” of clearance between the bottom of the transmission and the top of the driveline.
It’s hard to tell but there’s about .75” of clearance between the top of the driveline and the exhaust in that photo and I’m still getting contact
I’ve been chasing a rattle on the passenger side for a while now and it finally got bad enough I start tearing s*** apart to find it. At first I thought it was the cruise control computer so I moved that with no change. Finally on the drive up the GF noticed that the vent wheel was moving on its own. Had her apply some pressure when the noise would happen and sure enough that was the problem. I popped the vent out and used a sanded down washer to remove the slack and it’s fixed the rattling noise!
Finally took a look at the exhaust and driveline situation. I think I’m going to copy @liveoak and run it down the passenger side and cross over under the rear driveline to make it work. The only other option is to run it below the front driveline but then it’s just going to get smashed. I’m planning on going to 2.5” exhaust when I put the turbo back on and there ain’t enough room with how low of a lift I run. I only have 3” of clearance between the bottom of the transmission and the top of the driveline.
It’s hard to tell but there’s about .75” of clearance between the top of the driveline and the exhaust in that photo and I’m still getting contact
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- #534
@gnob I keep coming back to how you ran it but I just don’t see it happening with the lift I’ve got. I’ll grab some better photos later today of the area in case there’s something I’m missing that others might see. I felt like I hugged it pretty good but maybe going towards the end of the driveline is the answer.
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- #535
Here’s more photos of the driveline exhaust situation. I could possibly swing it over the driveline near the skid plate but it would require a 180 degree bend. I don’t think I can swing it going under the bell housing. I feel like I’d have the same issue I’m currently having.
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- #537
This is a dumb question, but with a differential out, both axle shafts in, when spinning either axle the other should spin and the ring and pinion correct? I’ve been having some issues with the front locker not working so I finally pulled the differential out and when turning one side the spider gears sound like they’re skipping and the R&P doesn’t turn. But if I turn the pinion or ring gear by hand it’ll spin both axles.
Based on what I thought I knew about differential operation I thought it all should always spin when going in the same direction
Here’s a video of it
Based on what I thought I knew about differential operation I thought it all should always spin when going in the same direction
Here’s a video of it
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- #539
That’s with it disengaged. I’ve been having issues where it just won’t engage and I can spin the tire numerous revolutions by hand forward and it won’t but if I go backwards it’ll engage.
Edited to add: I did throw the same shafts in an open diff I had sitting around and it didn’t skip like the one in the video. That’s what has me second guessing myself.
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- #540
Found a video in my camera roll of the issue I’m having. This was diff engaged, passenger wheel on the ground and hubs locked. This is what made me pull the diff to see what’s going on as I couldn’t find anything outside. The rear lockers been flawless so I even tried that wiring harness to see if that was the issues.