1983 FJ60 coolant system flush and overhaul

[fjgdk]

The shroud can be removed without removing the radiator, but you have to take the fan and clutch assembly off first. Which....



Yeah, you're missing the tensioning hardware. I can't tell you exactly how to get to the nut on the back of 17314A, but it can be done without removing all the hoses behind the pump. You'll have to do part of it by feel and figure out the right combination of extensions and drivers from the tools you have. It's probably either 12mm or 14mm. Make sure you have a wrench on the the bolt head also or it'll just spin. You might try just loosening the top bolt first and see if the pump will pivot. It also will be easier to work if you go ahead and take off the PS belt.

Once the pump can pivot, you'll need to find something to brace a lever (read: long screwdriver) against to tension the pump. I haven't had to do this before so I don't have advice on what to brace against. I know this isn't the mission you started out on, but you'll need to get it sorted before you can get the truck back on the road. That belt looks way too loose to drive the WP. Which could be your problem in the first place?

Yes thanks I am going to see if the local dealership has the missing pieces. Online I can find them for 13-14 bucks.

The rear nut seems very difficult to access. Thankfully someone on another thread I've posted on told me the size (12mm) which is a big help considering I cant see the bolt.

Refer back to this diagram @fjgdk for the bolts to loosen for the air pump belt.

I know which bolts to loosen, my question was how to access them. I couldnt see from looking at the truck in the flesh how to access the rear pivot bolt without removing a bunch if other things in the way.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

have you tried from underneath?

 

[fjgdk]

have you tried from underneath?

Yes I tried from underneath. I had removed the skid plate when I started this and when i got to this smog pump back bolt I tried to fit my hand anywhere it seemed like there was an opening.

Here is a pic from the front of the truck looking at the engine with the smog pump in the middle right... there's alot of stuff there.

And here is what I am looking at from the back:

I am thinking underneath again, with a very long extension.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Yeah you have a lot of s*** in there in the way. I pulled my smog pump right off the bat cuz it failed while in my driveway but I had none of that vacuum hose or the egr stuff. It was easy for me. If you can get on a high step stool and get your arm down between the two valves next to the air horn and feel for the bolt with your right then reach infront with your left to lock the other end inplace you might get it. If your not that flexible then you may have no choice but to disconnect a bunch of those vac hoses and valves. Just looking at that insane mess makes my head wanna blow up. Good luck, you will be busting knuckles for that one.

 

[fjgdk]

Yeah you have a lot of s*** in there in the way. I pulled my smog pump right off the bat cuz it failed while in my driveway but I had none of that vacuum hose or the egr stuff. It was easy for me. If you can get on a high step stool and get your arm down between the two valves next to the air horn and feel for the bolt with your right then reach infront with your left to lock the other end inplace you might get it. If your not that flexible then you may have no choice but to disconnect a bunch of those vac hoses and valves. Just looking at that insane mess makes my head wanna blow up. Good luck, you will be busting knuckles for that one.

To be sure, should I expect the nut to be 12mm or 14mm ? The front of the bolt/nut setup is 12mm, so I will assume the same for the rear. I don't want to finally get in there with the wrong size wrench !

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

1981 2F Emmissions from the fsm thread....
For Sale - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.
I'll be blunt... Learn to use your mouth to hold tools, toss a towel or yoga mat over the edge of the fender and just get in there. I have had a bunch of hand holding thanks to a handful of guys here (remember I'm a chick) but when it comes down to it you just have to get in there and do it. If you screw something up, you'll figure out how to fix it. My feeling is whatever I do "most" times only makes the system better because its 30 years old. If your in a place that isn't emissions necessary then just start pulling it all. You can replace vac lines. Go easy on the valves because if you don't need them, someone will. Clearly this truck is not your DD so just go at it and you'll come out ahead because you figured it out yourself. Take pictures as you go so you can refer back to them.

 

[fjgdk]

1981 2F Emmissions from the fsm thread....
For Sale - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price.
I'll be blunt... Learn to use your mouth to hold tools, toss a towel or yoga mat over the edge of the fender and just get in there. I have had a bunch of hand holding thanks to a handful of guys here (remember I'm a chick) but when it comes down to it you just have to get in there and do it. If you screw something up, you'll figure out how to fix it. My feeling is whatever I do "most" times only makes the system better because its 30 years old. If your in a place that isn't emissions necessary then just start pulling it all. You can replace vac lines. Go easy on the valves because if you don't need them, someone will. Clearly this truck is not your DD so just go at it and you'll come out ahead because you figured it out yourself. Take pictures as you go so you can refer back to them.



View attachment 1526039

Actually your pointing out the Emissions fsm is quite a help. I have physical copies of the "body and Chassis" and "2f engine" fsm's but nowhere in there does it show how to get to the various accessories to adjust the belts. I forgot about the emissions fsm which, while it doesn't give removal or accessibility instructions for what I need explicitly, it will actually be more helpful than the other two books since it seems I will have to start pulling emmissions stuff to do what I want to do. Getting another place to look for answers such as the emissions fsm does help.

 

[gilamonster]

A lesson I learned long ago. When ever I try to to do something without moving other parts out of my way-it almost always took twice as long trying to get the stuff. Then if you just pull off whatever is in your way, and put it back on.

 

[OSS]

All of the smog pump stuff is accessible from above. I've removed mine more times than I want to remember.

The smog pump adjuster parts (which you're missing) are exactly the same parts as the alternator adjuster: the funky long nut with the welded eye, and the long fully threaded bolt.

If you want to cannabalize the alternator adjuster to use on the smog pump, that might be a viable alternative. The alternator is much easier to access & some other sort of adjusting technique can be figured out for it - since its sitting there right in front of your face within easy reach. There's nothing about the smog pump that's easy to get to.

On my 60, I have to move the fan shroud to be able to pull the pivot bolt all the way out if I need to remove the pump.

The smog pump has a pivot bolt and nut which is giving you grief. The nut on the rear side can be reached from above by sliding your arm in the barely accessible gap next to the power steering high pressure line. The white insulation covering the power steering line I think might contain asbestos. If your bare arm rubs up against it (and you have to jamb your arm next to it) you'll get itchy invisible fibers embedded into your skin. So wear a long sleeve shirt when jamming your arm down there to hold the SP pivot nut.

The pivot bolt nut in the future shouldn't be cranked tight. It should only be tightened slightly. You don't want to have to loosen that damn nut every time you've got to adjust the belt. The pivot bolt is just a pivot. It's nut only needs to be tight enough to prevent the bolt from sliding out - and that's not going to happen.

Take a look at how the adjuster works on the alternator. The smog pump adjuster works the exact same way.

 

[fjgdk]

All of the smog pump stuff is accessible from above. I've removed mine more times than I want to remember.

The smog pump adjuster parts (which you're missing) are exactly the same parts as the alternator adjuster: the funky long nut with the welded eye, and the long fully threaded bolt.

If you want to cannabalize the alternator adjuster to use on the smog pump, that might be a viable alternative. The alternator is much easier to access & some other sort of adjusting technique can be figured out for it - since its sitting there right in front of your face within easy reach. There's nothing about the smog pump that's easy to get to.

On my 60, I have to move the fan shroud to be able to pull the pivot bolt all the way out if I need to remove the pump.

The smog pump has a pivot bolt and nut which is giving you grief. The nut on the rear side can be reached from above by sliding your arm in the barely accessible gap next to the power steering high pressure line. The white insulation covering the power steering line I think might contain asbestos. If your bare arm rubs up against it (and you have to jamb your arm next to it) you'll get itchy invisible fibers embedded into your skin. So wear a long sleeve shirt when jamming your arm down there to hold the SP pivot nut.

The pivot bolt nut in the future shouldn't be cranked tight. It should only be tightened slightly. You don't want to have to loosen that damn nut every time you've got to adjust the belt. The pivot bolt is just a pivot. It's nut only needs to be tight enough to prevent the bolt from sliding out - and that's not going to happen.

Take a look at how the adjuster works on the alternator. The smog pump adjuster works the exact same way.

Ok thanks sounds like you've been through this before. When I get home I am going to look at the alternator as you suggest. Thanks for the info.

I was looking at another thread about a power steering conversion and got the following pic where there is a small square metal bar with threaded holes 90 degrees out of phase for the adjuster bar. (this is not my pic so please let me know if you want me to remove it)

Any idea who sells something like that as an aftermarket part ?

 

[fjgdk]

All of the smog pump stuff is accessible from above. I've removed mine more times than I want to remember.

The smog pump adjuster parts (which you're missing) are exactly the same parts as the alternator adjuster: the funky long nut with the welded eye, and the long fully threaded bolt.

If you want to cannabalize the alternator adjuster to use on the smog pump, that might be a viable alternative. The alternator is much easier to access & some other sort of adjusting technique can be figured out for it - since its sitting there right in front of your face within easy reach. There's nothing about the smog pump that's easy to get to.

On my 60, I have to move the fan shroud to be able to pull the pivot bolt all the way out if I need to remove the pump.

The smog pump has a pivot bolt and nut which is giving you grief. The nut on the rear side can be reached from above by sliding your arm in the barely accessible gap next to the power steering high pressure line. The white insulation covering the power steering line I think might contain asbestos. If your bare arm rubs up against it (and you have to jamb your arm next to it) you'll get itchy invisible fibers embedded into your skin. So wear a long sleeve shirt when jamming your arm down there to hold the SP pivot nut.

The pivot bolt nut in the future shouldn't be cranked tight. It should only be tightened slightly. You don't want to have to loosen that damn nut every time you've got to adjust the belt. The pivot bolt is just a pivot. It's nut only needs to be tight enough to prevent the bolt from sliding out - and that's not going to happen.

Take a look at how the adjuster works on the alternator. The smog pump adjuster works the exact same way.

One more question, is that rear adjuster nut 12mm or 14mm ?

 

[OSS]

12 mm hex. The hex size of a nut is usually the same size as its bolt's hex head... when in doubt

 

[fjgdk]

Here you go, it's mounted below the idler pulley... I just happen to have my radiator pulled..haha


View attachment 1523018 View attachment 1523019 View attachment 1523020

I am getting a used tensioner bar setup this Friday from a guy somewhat local who is parting out his truck.

In the meantime, I am trying to figure out what to do with the hose mount holder thing underneath the AC compressor that is supposed to keep the coolant hose from rubbing up against the drive belt. Unfortunately it seems that the threaded rod/post that I should be able to attach the holder to with a nut was sheared.

I wanted to know if the piece of metal that this hose holder thing was part of is the AC compressor engine mounting ? If so, can I remove the AC compressor and then this mounting plate without fear of the engine falling ? It seems that this piece is holding the engine up on the front passenger side corner of the engine. Am I wrong ?

 

[fjgdk]

Can I remove the belt pulley for the power steering belt without screwing up anything else with the power steering? The nut for the pulley seems very easy to get to, but I am not familiar enough with the PS operation to know if simply taking off that bolt and pulling the pulley will open up a whole other bag o' worms. Any info is appreciated.

 

[fjgdk]

Here you go, it's mounted below the idler pulley... I just happen to have my radiator pulled..haha

Hey I still have my cooling system apart, slowly cleaning everything and painting. I am having a bear of a time with the pipe thst attaches to the lower radiator hose and the “isolator/dampener” you showed me earlier when I started doing this.

When putting everything back together, in particular putting a new isolator/dampener piece on and new hoses connected to that pipe, I am finding that the pipe attachment to the isolator is hitting against the ac idler pulley bracket. Am I doing something wrong ? Did I not put the hoses on the tri- pipe hi or low enough ?

Below is your setup from an earlier post and what mine is now (blasted and painted pipe red for ease of location in the dark). Any info is of course much appreciated.

yours

mine

 

[fjgdk]

Thanks all for the help. I cleaned up and put the front end (rad, hoses, belts) back together. Now I'm having other problems that I will write about in another forum.