1983 BJ42 LX restoration

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Joined
Sep 3, 2017
Threads
1
Messages
20
Location
Exmouth, Western Australia
Hello and greetings from Western Australia. Thank you to the MUD community and this website for providing such a valuable resource of information. Many hours have been spent scouring the various threads on how to do things properly, without this resource I doubt I would have started my build.

I thought I'd take the time to share with others the journey of restoring my vehicle which is a 1983 BJ42 LX - I purchased it without a roof and with cut down doors, with a very tired soft top that had poppers that had been drilled into the body to hold it down.

The vehicle was originally purchased in Brisbane Queensland back in 2011 for $7500 AUD, I purchased it blind over the internet, the previous owner said he'd done a 'restoration', then handed me a tupperware container of nuts and bolts saying they were extras and not sure where they went. The steering wheel nut could be loosened by hand, this should give a good idea of the quality of his resto. I went through the whole vehicle checking, tightening and servicing, then drove it for 8 days across Australia towing a boat, the 3B diesel didn't skip a beat, the only challenge being whenever a massive truck came the other way, the opposing wind pressure would cause the soft top sides to pop off !

I've kept it since then as a second vehicle and enjoyed it immensely, over the years I've done a bunch of upgrades and 'basic restoration' stuff, but there's always been rust in the rear quarters, holes in the floor panels and the paint job was starting to flake off revealing how bad the previous attempts at restoring it were.

The body needed to come off the frame in order to repair it properly so during Covid in 2020 in order to keep my mind occupied I decided to dismantle it and restore it to the best of my ability.

This is what it looked like when I bought it in 2011 ..

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The below photo this is what it looked like in 2020 just before getting started on the resto. It was originally freeborn red which can be seen under the wheel arches.
Simple upgrades over the years included, new wheels and tyres, original rollbar, replaced seats, bikini top, 2 inch Old Man Emu suspension, front swivel hubs, rebuilt brakes front and rear.

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My intention for the project was to remove all the rust, pull everything apart, clean, fix, paint, reassemble - keeping everything original or better than original where possible.
 
Dismantling was actually pretty straightforward, being a 40 year old vehicle I was worried about rusty and seized fasteners but honestly 99 percent of things came off no problem.

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The terrible quality of the previous paint job can be seen here with the original red showing everywhere.

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The rear left quarter can be seen here crumbling with the paint cracked, the previous attempt at a repair was downright terrible

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A couple things that proved absolutely invaluable during the tear down process were, purchasing an impact wrench, photographing everything before dismantling it, labelling everything as it came off the vehicle, bagging and storing all fasteners, developing a system to understand where everything is and developing lists of what the priorities of the project would be.

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Looks like a fun build the only thing I see left from the LX package is the three wipers on the windscreen. Did ya have any of the interior pieces. Or the rear seat. Cheers.
Unfortunately not, it was purchased without the zebra seats front and rear, but the rest of the cool stuff is still there though, 5 speed gearbox, power steering, front disks etc ... Not really a big fan of the brown stripey covering on the original LX seats, although I know they're super duper sought after and $$
 
With the help of a couple friends we were able to lift the body off the frame. The heart of the machine, 3B with it's power steering and 5 speed H55F gearbox

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Dodgy rust repair job in the rear left corner using what looked to be some old signage material, quality stuff ! The rear sill was completely rusty

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Floorpans were previously fixed by welding a steel plate across the rust, more quality work

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Interesting 42 and history - really wonderful from the factory with the 3B, H55F, and PS. I have a Freeborn Red 42 in a little better shape than this, but not by much. Subscribed and can't wait to see how you progress everything.
 
After making a few inquiries, one of the locals in the small town where I live offered for me to use his sandblaster, and I was able to trade with another friend a case of beer for a half ton bag of garnet, thus was able to sand blast the chassis, side steps, pedals and a bunch of other brackets and parts.

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I went with the KBS system for the entire project, starting with their rust seal self levelling coating on the chassis. Use gloves !

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Once two coats of the Rust Seal were applied by brush, the chassis was sprayed with the KBS Blacktop top coat which provides a nice satin finish and UV protection, it also dries rock hard. Having never sandblasted or used a spray gun attached to a compressor before, I was pretty happy with the results at this point.
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Another absolute must have for stripping paint off surfaces without harming the metal underneath were these stripper disks. They worked absolutely brilliantly and worked out relatively cost effective buying in packs of 10

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The stripper disks made quick work of the diffs which were next on the to do list. They were in really good condition, just some light surface rust and old paint which came off no problems, all back to bare steel

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The diffs were where the 3 step approach KBS system started to really make sense. Once everything was cleaned up back to bare steel, the Rust Blast was used to kill off any minor rust and also prep the surface for paint. Spray it on bare steel and keep the surface wet for 10-15 mins, then wash off with water and let dry (I used a compressor for this). The surface is etched and left with a slight yellowish deposit which can be painted directly over.

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The diffs were done in the same way as the chassis, 2 coats of rust seal and then finished in satin black chassis coater.

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All nuts and bolts, brackets, hard lines, pulleys and leaf suspension components were taken to a metal finishing specialist for zinc plating. First they chemically dip the parts in acid to remove all rust, paint and grime, then the parts are washed and then dipped in a sacrificial zinc anode solution where they are zinc coated. I opted for a silver finish.

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Patience and persistence, plus referencing the photos that I'd taken before dipping of each item bagged and labeled.

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Got there eventually, all in their correct places and then bagged again in the correctly labeled bag. This proved invaluable during the build knowing where everything was and that everything was now rust free and using the original fasteners.

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The hard line brackets cleaned up really nicely and were fitted with heat shrink. Everything was literally like brand new

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The suspension was upgraded a few years back to the Old Man Emu 2 inch lift, however the finish on both the leaf springs and the shocks is pretty average so I decided to upgrade them as I was that far into dismantling things, so may as well. It's a well known fact that the OME leafs start to show surface rust and the factory paint job shows signs of wear very soon after use.

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All components were stripped down and the reversible shackles and mounting hardware were cleaned up, then zinc dipped in silver.

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Once cleaned up and rust was removed, the leafs were painted satin black and then reassembled.

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We have rust free, a rolling chassis !

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The heart of the BJ42, the 3B diesel with H55F 5 speed gearbox.

There have been no problems at all with both the engine and gearbox so I decided to clean them up rather than fully dismantle and rebuild. My budget, timeframe, skill level and geographic location were convincing factors in just how far down the rabbit hole the project goes.

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The engine and gearbox were separated so I could get access to the main bearing, main seal and also replace the clutch throw out bearing and the clutch fork

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The old nut and bolt trick with an allen key to pull the bearing out, it took a while but eventually got there

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Both the engine and gearbox were pretty dirty with years of oil, diesel and grime. It took a long time and lots of elbow grease with wire wheels, scrapers, flat head screwdrivers etc ... to get the junk off. Once cleaned they were treated with KBS rust blast and then coated with the KBS engine enamel in satin black.

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With the engine and gearbox apart, it made sense to replace the clutch.

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All back together, cleaned up and painted

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With the engine accessible and all cleaned up, I decided to remove the head and clean it up, there was a slight coolant leak on one side which indicated a leaky gasket. This was definitely heading into unchartered territory for me so it was slowly goes ...

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Once the head was off I removed the cam shaft, valves, lifters, seals and cracked precups

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Valve seats cleaned up with lapping compound

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New precups installed and valve seats cleaned up nicely

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