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Discussion in 'GA- Georgia Cruisers' started by tgreco, Feb 11, 2015.
And just because you guys don't want me to mess up my pretty face:
Let the fun begin.
Hint....drill holes in floor so cage will drop down so you can weld top.
^^ This! And keep the receipt for when you go exo-cage!
I'll be watching this as I'm about to do the same...
Where is that cage from?
Nope but I'm sure I'll eat those words someday.
4xinnovations. I think @FJCRAWLER used their kit as well. It seems like a nice product. I'll post progress during the install.
I think I may be overthinking this, but I've been thinking about adding some additional bracing when I do my cage install.
So, the B pillar as indicated as the red line in the image below is how the cage comes. In theory, I think the best option is a big X from corner to corner across the back, but I'm pretty sure that will interfere with my seats. Thus, I was thinking potentially about adding tubes as indicated by either the green or yellow lines (possibly the unmarked tubes as shown in the picture). For what it's worth, I think the yellow will package the best as the cab is already tight, but it also provides the least amount of triangulation.
Any thoughts? Am I wasting time and tube and should I assume that the fabricator built a well designed cage? Would simply adding the horizontal cross tube for future harness attachment be beneficial? I've already got tube, so the cost of metal isn't an issue.
not sure it's possible to "over build" a roll cage given it's duty in life. Triangulation is what you're looking for as well as well placed and built nodes. The yellow will add strength but I suspect it'll be negligible, the green would be my preferred additions moving the bottoms inward until they touch the existing tubes, that'll add a great deal of strength.
Another thing to consider are the types of harnesses you will be using and how that will tie into the cage. Ideally you want to go straight back but in mini-trucks that's pretty difficult to do.
Internal cage means headroom is at a premium, and in a mini that is compounded. So your triangulation above the middle tie-bar needs to be well thought out. Even a padded bar hurts.
I'd do horizontal bar, lower half of the big "X" on bottom half. Single vertical bar from the point of that up to the top of the hoop. Add gusset/ braces where top bar connects to spread load. Run single bar thru middle to windshield bar and the run a diagonal from "A" pillar to center-top of rear main hoop, if you can put vertical bend in the diagonal top bar which is above your head to gain as much headroom as possible. Those last diagonal could be left out if headroom is too tight.
Like Ted said, it has one purpose and it needs to be able to do that very well. Its a tightrope to balance and keep enough room to keep the old melon from getting bashed on the tubes that are supposed to be protecting it.
Or get a helmet and go crazy.
Thanks for the input guys. I'm going to get the main structure put in and then see how the additional tubes fall into place. Damn fedex lost half the cage so I'm trying to sort that out and going to make it tight for getting it done for AOP.
Not going to be necessary
Hope you where planning on tying it to the frame. If not guess/hope you are now.
Should just buy mine and be done. I'll even bring it to AOP for you.
What chu selling @FJ?
I'm lurking in your clubhouse guys cuz I have started dismantling an '81 Trecker and am using @tgreco 's thread for guidance/inspiration.
Stuck between resto or wheeler...
It's pretty far gone, floors are worse than yours for sure.
Body comes off this week.
It's definitely got to go to the frame. Pretty sure I'm going to have to replace both body mounts as well. The drivers side is much worse. Unfortunately my sheet metal experience is zero so this could get ugly.
@Pacer that's a cool truck but I'm probably not the best build to look to for guidance but more so as what not to do. My vote is wheeler because these trucks aren't good at much else except eroding your manhood while grandmas pass you doing 35mph.
No FJ just a little ole 4Runner
Well what was supposed to be an easy cage install has blossomed into full on floor plan fab. Sheet metal work sucks.
Went with 16 gage so it's a little bit tough to form. My hack brake:
Fab up the cage frame tie in while you have that big hole.
Alright, looking for thoughts on if this passes the Internet sniff test (because that's all that really matters, right).
My current plan (see pic below): run horizontal tube from frame to slider and T into the horizontal with a vertical tube. The vertical will then be capped with the plate that came with the cage below the floor pan. This plate will be bolted to the other plate that is welded to the bottom of the a pillar tube and sits on top of the floor pan (thus the floor pan will be sandwiched between the 2 plates - this may cause some issues in itself but I'll make that sacrifice). All frame tie in material is 2" 0.25 hrew tube.
My main concern is the horizontal frame to slider tube bending/shearing in a hard hit on the roof. I plan to plate the frame and gusset the tube frame junction.
So the real question, would you ride in my truck with this cage design?
Looks good @tgreco. I tied mine in very similar. Just gusset where you can.
Is plate A at floor height? Hard to tell from pic.
Considering any body lift in the future?
Could you whack the factory body mounts and make the slider support tube intgrate all three uses?
In the picture the "A" plate is not but it will be. In regard to integrating all of the mounts, I'm sure it could be done but I'm not going down that road - that would require too much brain power and fab time.
Looks about right tony, tying into the slider is perfectly fine. The "A" plate should hit the bottom of the floor pan with another plate that sits on top of the floor pan, drill holes through the floor pan creating the sandwich b/w the 3 and bolt the internal cage in place.
No need for body lift, keep it as low as possible without restricting upward articulation.