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- #601
Well the throw-out bearing is different on the 81+ trucks so I ordered a bearing and a hub (different too of course.) Still can't get the brake line out. 1/2" impact to remove a brake line? Yeah that's about to go down.
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Brake lines: soak it with PB Blaster (I actually prefer Aero-Kroil, but use what ya got), then put some heat on it with a propane torch. Heat, then cool, then heat, then cool. Go slow, be patient. Flare wrench only!
Oh, you're staying!!!~ Going to have to stay after quite a bit this week and next if I was to get this thing done.
Trying to get the metal tube from the rubber or the whole rubber part out of the spring eye?Plan for this evening is to pull the springs and try to get the sleeves out.~
Oh, you're staying!!!
Trying to get the metal tube from the rubber or the whole rubber part out of the spring eye?
The quick way, if you're comfortable with it, is to put a torch blowing down the middle of the sleeve. It'll detach the adhered rubber and expand it at the same time; the bushing will literally shoot out one side. The rubber won't be smooth inside afterwards, but that doesn't matter to the bolt IMO.
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A full torch setup, like for cutting, may be a little overkill anyway. Does anyone have a small propane/butane/Mapp gas nozzle? Like what a plumber might use? That's what I've always used.
I'm not too sure about the drill idea. I just don't see that it'd get hot enough to melt the rubber on the other side of the bushing. And I'm afraid that any attempt to twist it out, like with a drill bit or EZ out, would end up ripping off more of the inside of the bushing than you would by melting. I think the heat or a press would both be better options. Just my 2 cents.
I know you're grinning now Sam; I recall that feeling of seeing everything going into place and it looking like a whole truck again. That light at the end of the tunnel is getting brighter!
I'm glad to see you have the "solid" tcase mount, but due to that, I have to ask what motor mounts you have. If you do not have a similar style motor mount, at least on the driver's side, you'll want to be very careful. I got lucky while I was running stock motor mounts with that case mount and only broke two motor mounts and no case housings; a buddy of mine was not so lucky and broke a tcase housing. If you need to go the quick and easy route for now, research how people have chained the motor and do that if you can't do replacement motor mounts.
So I'm well aware that everyone reading this thread really only cares about one thing, pictures.