- Thread starter
- #601
Well the throw-out bearing is different on the 81+ trucks so I ordered a bearing and a hub (different too of course.) Still can't get the brake line out. 1/2" impact to remove a brake line? Yeah that's about to go down.
1980 Longbed Pickup Build - Epically Slow Style (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Sam Stewart
- Start date
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Brake lines: soak it with PB Blaster (I actually prefer Aero-Kroil, but use what ya got), then put some heat on it with a propane torch. Heat, then cool, then heat, then cool. Go slow, be patient. Flare wrench only!
Don't you know a guy who could get you some new lines, factory bent for your axle? 
Just bustin' on ya, I know you aren't looking to blow the $ on them if you don't have to.
Brakes suck anyway. I had the same problem when I was doing my LC axle swap, I actually had another 3-way on the replacement axle and just used it because I couldn't get any of the line broken loose.
Just bustin' on ya, I know you aren't looking to blow the $ on them if you don't have to.Brakes suck anyway. I had the same problem when I was doing my LC axle swap, I actually had another 3-way on the replacement axle and just used it because I couldn't get any of the line broken loose.
- Thread starter
- #605
Well, much like ANY older Toyota (probably including your 80) the hard lines are not available. So do whatever you want with the rubber lines but you better either save, or be prepared to make new, hard lines. :/
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- Thread starter
- #606
Worked on the truck a little this weekend. Got one LED light mounted... and that's about it. Going to have to stay after quite a bit this week and next if I was to get this thing done.
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- Thread starter
- #607
Plan for this evening is to pull the springs and try to get the sleeves out. And, try to get the fan shroud mounted back in the truck.
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Oh, you're staying!!!
Trying to get the metal tube from the rubber or the whole rubber part out of the spring eye?
- Thread starter
- #609
Metal sleeve out of the center of the bushing. The outside diameter of the sleeve is the correct size for the bolts that fit the shackles and mount. (I think.)
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The quick way, if you're comfortable with it, is to put a torch blowing down the middle of the sleeve. It'll detach the adhered rubber and expand it at the same time; the bushing will literally shoot out one side. The rubber won't be smooth inside afterwards, but that doesn't matter to the bolt IMO.
IH8MUD on Android
IH8MUD on Android
- Thread starter
- #611
That's kinda what I was thinking. Unfortunately our torch is not working right now. I'm thinking I might just use a big drill bit and hopefully it will heat it up and break the rubber loose. Once it does I should be able to pull the sleeve out with the drill bit.
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A full torch setup, like for cutting, may be a little overkill anyway. Does anyone have a small propane/butane/Mapp gas nozzle? Like what a plumber might use? That's what I've always used.
I'm not too sure about the drill idea. I just don't see that it'd get hot enough to melt the rubber on the other side of the bushing. And I'm afraid that any attempt to twist it out, like with a drill bit or EZ out, would end up ripping off more of the inside of the bushing than you would by melting. I think the heat or a press would both be better options. Just my 2 cents.
I'm not too sure about the drill idea. I just don't see that it'd get hot enough to melt the rubber on the other side of the bushing. And I'm afraid that any attempt to twist it out, like with a drill bit or EZ out, would end up ripping off more of the inside of the bushing than you would by melting. I think the heat or a press would both be better options. Just my 2 cents.
- Thread starter
- #613
Yeah it's a big torch. Apparently it is working enough to do the rear ones. Matt was out there messing with it earlier and got the rear ones done already. The ones in the front are actually made into the rubber on the bushing so I don't know how easily they are going to come out. We're probably going to try the same method though. I agree with the drill but I know for sure the press won't push those front ones out. Anyway, before I can go any further I have to go buy some more washers (all the cool kids run washers for spacers btw
). The bolts I bought are the right size but they are for the front so they are much longer than needed and aren't threaded far enough down. 
- Thread starter
- #614
Well I got my washers and my new throw out bearing hub came in. So, hopefully we'll get to start installing the trans later today. Going to get everything mocked up and Matt is going to make some mounting plates. I'm going to stay late and work on finishing up the springs this evening. Still need to pick up some paint so I can "touch up" some places on the truck and paint the spring hangers.
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- Thread starter
- #615
We got the trans up in the truck and bolted the cross member up to the transfer. It's probably going to only have 3 bolts per side but with the extra plating on the mounts it should be plenty strong. Kind of at a stopping point until we can lower the truck back down. The list is kinda getting smaller...
- Thread starter
- #616
So I'm well aware that everyone reading this thread really only cares about one thing, pictures. So, here's where we're at right now.
Plate for making brakets and such.
It's heavy duty. (Like it weighs A LOT.)
Mocked up.
Where the cross member is landing these days.
Plate for making brakets and such.
It's heavy duty. (Like it weighs A LOT.)
Mocked up.
Where the cross member is landing these days.
- Thread starter
- #617
ALSO GREAT NEWS!
I decided on a name for the truck!
It's name is FRANKIE short for Frankenstein. It makes perfect sense! Look at this list of random parts!
1980 Pickup
1987 4Runner engine
1983 Pickup trans
Mix of transfer cases
05ish Tacoma springs on rear
80 series shocks on front
etc, etc, etc
I decided on a name for the truck!
It's name is FRANKIE short for Frankenstein. It makes perfect sense! Look at this list of random parts!
1980 Pickup
1987 4Runner engine
1983 Pickup trans
Mix of transfer cases
05ish Tacoma springs on rear
80 series shocks on front
etc, etc, etc
I know you're grinning now Sam; I recall that feeling of seeing everything going into place and it looking like a whole truck again. That light at the end of the tunnel is getting brighter!
I'm glad to see you have the "solid" tcase mount, but due to that, I have to ask what motor mounts you have. If you do not have a similar style motor mount, at least on the driver's side, you'll want to be very careful. I got lucky while I was running stock motor mounts with that case mount and only broke two motor mounts and no case housings; a buddy of mine was not so lucky and broke a tcase housing. If you need to go the quick and easy route for now, research how people have chained the motor and do that if you can't do replacement motor mounts.
I'm glad to see you have the "solid" tcase mount, but due to that, I have to ask what motor mounts you have. If you do not have a similar style motor mount, at least on the driver's side, you'll want to be very careful. I got lucky while I was running stock motor mounts with that case mount and only broke two motor mounts and no case housings; a buddy of mine was not so lucky and broke a tcase housing. If you need to go the quick and easy route for now, research how people have chained the motor and do that if you can't do replacement motor mounts.
- Thread starter
- #619
I'm def grinning but I'll be grinning a lot more when I drive this beast out of the shop!
I do already have the "solid" motor mounts so hopefully I'll be good. I broke the 20R mounts (well, someone else broke them but it's a long story) AND I broke the 22RE mounts that came with the 4Runner. So, yeah, the solid mounts were pretty much already a neccessity. I have def heard some horror stories of mounts breaking and other stuff getting destroyed in the process. Now I just need to worry about my other nemesis! The roll-over! (At least until I get a cage which is next on the list after all this.)
