1980 Longbed Pickup Build - Epically Slow Style

[Sam Stewart]

Well, I've had the rear case off and on about 3 times now. When everything is apart, it all shifts and turns just fine. When it's all bolted together it's completely locked down. Like you can't turn anything period. Also the crawl box won't shift to high or low.

Still just a little frustrating. Hopefully will get it figured out soon and be able to move forward.

I installed my new starter and battery today so at least I got something accomplished. Ended up going with the O'Reilly's house brand absorbed glass mat battery. I was looking at a yellow top but I've heard a lot of bad reviews about them. Plus it was considerably cheaper.

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[jynx]

So I have been looking at the FSM and the only thing I can see that would cause such a problem that is related to the 2-4 shifter is the clutch hub and shift fork. I have no idea how it would be involved unless somehow the 2-4 linkage is getting pushed back when you are bolting the crawl box on and causing it to bind the idler and the clutch. There just aren't that many parts that can get into anything else inside there. From looking, I think you can take the speedo gear cover off and might be able to see what is going on in there. Might be able to remove the back half of the case and see what is binding up without having to get in too deep.

The only other thing would be if the oil pickup tube has come loose and is causing a problem, but I would think that would not let it move in 4wd either.

 

[KLF]

Time to call Marlin.

 

[Sam Stewart]

Time to call Marlin.

I would be more inclined to do that if I had purchased his product...

I'm going to get one of my long time Toyota techs to look at it with me. It's just really baffling that everything turns and shifts fine when it's not bolted together.

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[4xsteve]

I'm not sure if this would cause lockdown or not, but a major problem I ran into on my build, and a problem I noticed when driving Dave's truck (Sam you know who I'm talking about), is that the shift rails will hit between the two cases causing major shift problems. Two of the rails use the same slide hole so getting the lengths cut right is critical to proper operation. This is hard to identify and work on when the cases are already in the truck. I took a video of the before and after shifter operation when this happened to me recently but haven't been able to upload it anywhere; let me know if you want me to email it to you.

Oh, and I doubt you missed this part of the rebuild, but depending on your shift lever setup, the interlock pins can cause issues like this or having the shifter installed out of position (easier to get wrong than you might think).

 

[Sam Stewart]

I wasn't at the shop today but a couple of the guys in the shop were looking at my setup. Seems that one of the couplers in the crawl box is binding with the gear for the high side not allowing it to rotate. And therefore not engage. Gonna tear it back down tomorrow and see what we can find.

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[Sam Stewart]

Well a couple of my really smart techs looked at it and we determined that the input shaft was binding and putting pressure on the collars in the crawl box. So, it's fixed now. In the mean time somehow I lost a shifter. I ordered a replacement top shift plate and am just going to use the forward shift shifter that I have left over. Now just gotta make a cross member and some drive shafts.

 

[Sam Stewart]

So a little more detail on the fitment issue. Where the splines are on the input shaft gradually changes diameter towards the bearing. Those splines don't actually go into anything except the void in between the cases. So when the rear case was tightened down it was contacting those splines and binding the whole assembly down. Ground down the splines and used one of the supplied gaskets. Works like a charm now.

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[4xsteve]

While I'm sure it'll be fine as assembled, that doesn't seem right Sam. The splines you're referring to must be aftermarket gears since OEM ones actually neck down, not up, towards the bearing - am I correct in that? (Sorry, didn't feel like reading back through 30 pages to see what gears you used). My MC 21spline gears were as you describe and worked fine without modifications. All I can figure is either those gears were cut a little out of tolerance, a snapring retaining the bearing or thrust washer was wrong or out of spec, or something really weird is going on with the case housings somehow. I know this is kinda water under the bridge since it has already been remedied, but always nice to know what the REAL problem was for future reference and/or for others' research.

Can't wait to see this beast on the same trail as me!

 

[jynx]

Sorry I missed your call last night Sam, stupid late meeting for work.

Anyway, glad you got it sorted, but I am kinda like Steve, something sounds odd. Of course I don't know that it matters, but that case is the 1980 from behind the 4spd, so maybe the input was a little different, who knows.

So now onto the cross-member, which hopefully won't be quite the adventure. Did you say the 5spd is longer than the 4spd? Wondering if you could use some plate and the original cross-member to support the combined unit.

 

[Sam Stewart]

While I'm sure it'll be fine as assembled, that doesn't seem right Sam. The splines you're referring to must be aftermarket gears since OEM ones actually neck down, not up, towards the bearing - am I correct in that? ... I know this is kinda water under the bridge since it has already been remedied, but always nice to know what the REAL problem was for future reference and/or for others' research.

Can't wait to see this beast on the same trail as me!

I agree with that Steve. Something def doesn't seem right about it. Both inputs on the later year model cases (83-84ish) are smooth where the input tapers up towards the bearing. (It does go up by the way, see the pic below). The original case off my 80 looked the same except the splines continued after the break up towards the bearing a little further. And, that was what was hitting. See the arrows in the pic below? That area is completely smooth on the case I used for the crawl box and the gap is considerably wider...

Strange I know.

I'm excited to see what it will do too Steve!! I don't know about being on the same trail as you quite yet though. I still don't have a cage and I'm not quite as "brave" as you are either.

Sorry I missed your call last night Sam, stupid late meeting for work.

Anyway, glad you got it sorted, but I am kinda like Steve, something sounds odd. Of course I don't know that it matters, but that case is the 1980 from behind the 4spd, so maybe the input was a little different, who knows.

So now onto the cross-member, which hopefully won't be quite the adventure. Did you say the 5spd is longer than the 4spd? Wondering if you could use some plate and the original cross-member to support the combined unit.

No prob about the call. I was just going to fill you in on the progress, no matter how strange. I always thought a gear drive case was a gear drive case and that was it. Live and learn I guess.

So, yes we are on to the cross member now. I am planning to use the original cross member (even though it's pretty beat up) and some 1/4" plate. We are going to make some new mounting plates for it. The trans (which is a G52 btw, not a W56 as originally thought) is about 5" longer than the 4 speed was PLUS the extra lenght for the doubler. So, I estimate probably 10-12" total that the cross member will need to go back. I am going to get everthing bolted up, set it back up in the truck, and put a couple of bell housing bolts in. Then we'll see where the cross member lands. Once we get it squared away, we can look at making some shafts for it. I still have to finish up the rear springs and do a few other odds and ends. Matt is going to help with the drive shafts and cross member since he has a sweet SnapOn welder and actually knows how to use it. So I'll probably work on the springs for now.

 

[Sam Stewart]

Also, funny story about the shifter. I thought we lost one of the shifters because I couldn't find it anywhere. I looked all over the shop and finally decided I would just use the forward shift and order a different plate for it to work with the top shift. So, went ahead and ordered it ($50 bucks later with shipping, not available from Toyota of course). I had one of those AH HA/DOH! moments at home last night when I was about to go to bed and remembered I put it in the truck so I wouldn't lose it. AH!!!! So frustrating. Anyway, the transfer troubles had me so consumed that I forgot all about it. Oh well, now I'll have a new shiny shifter plate that no one will ever see.

 

[jynx]

Speaking of Matt, does he still have the jeep or did he find him a Toy? And is he coming to GSMTR?

 

[Sam Stewart]

Speaking of Matt, does he still have the jeep or did he find him a Toy? And is he coming to GSMTR?

No, no, and no.

He sold the Jeep a while back fully intending to turn right around a buy a first gen 4Runner or extra cab mini. Life happens sometimes so he wasn't able to do that right away. He has still been looking for one of those two trucks but he has had a lot of other stuff going on. Right now in fact, he is in the process of trying to sell his house and move to another house. Once the dust settles on all that hopefully he will be able to get something. He can't come to GSMTR because of a scheduling conflict. He really wants to get out to another event and has already mentioned that he wants to go to the fall ACC ride if they have it again. We have also discussed the possibility of hitting the Southern Cruiser Crawl but that's a pretty long haul for us.

On that same note: I'm looking at some other areas around the SE myself. I have been to Durhamtown numerous times and it's so-so. Good for test runs for about a day and that's it. I'm thinking Golden Mountain, Chocco, maybe some places in SC. I usually try to schedule my trips around club events but I might try to put something together myself this summer. I'll keep you posted.

 

[Sam Stewart]

Well I got the trans/transfer sorted. Went ahead and installed the shifter top plates. Installed the shifters just so I could test shift it all. Everything is working good so far. I also man-handled lol the cross member back up and got it bolted up. It was not an easy task. I attempted to install my longer rear brake line but uh.... it didn't want to break loose. Same thing on the new clutch line... not moving. Will need to address that pretty quick. I also still need to install the clutch fork, bearing, and new boot. Got a 4'x4' piece of 1/4" plate that will be there tomorrow so we can get started on some brackets for the cross member.

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[Sam Stewart]

Here are some fuzzy cell phone pics.

 

[jynx]

That is ALOT of aluminum strapped to that jack. All that time sorting out the cases and you couldn't've at least cleaned them up a little.

I am trying to get my to-do's done, got the nod on some sliders this afternoon.

 

[Sam Stewart]

That is ALOT of aluminum strapped to that jack. All that time sorting out the cases and you couldn't've at least cleaned them up a little.

I am trying to get my to-do's done, got the nod on some sliders this afternoon.

I knew someone was going to say something about them being dirty.

I was going to clean and paint them but... 1. No one is going to see them 2. I don't have time 3. It's a trail truck, doesn't need to be pretty.

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[Sam Stewart]

So my 4'x4' plate showed up as a 3"x2'.... Trying to figure out where the wires got crossed on that one. Hosed the brake lines and fittings down with PB hoping they will break loose after soaking a bit. Going to try to tackle the springs this weekend. My back-ordered shocks are finally shipped and should be here Thursday. Going to work on updating the list.

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[Sam Stewart]

To do list:
• finish prepping trans for install (clutch fork and boot, throw out bearing)
• make new cross member mounts (matt)
• make drive shafts (matt)
• install rear brake line
• bleed brakes
• install new clutch line
• bleed clutch
• drill/press out sleeves in rear springs
• install shocks
• cut holes in floor for shifters
• shifter boots
• install led lights
• finish weld spring hangers (matt)
• paint (or re-paint) hangers, sliders, etc
• get spare tire and mount?
• make/get storage for recovery gear
• install new starter and battery done