1980 Fj40 wiring woes help!!

[Buffchief]

I'm having electrical issues and need some help if possible. Completing a body off restore and some things work and others don't when they did before. Wiring harness was cleaned up and added new "armor wrap" and tape as per original. What does work: headlight, running lights all the way around including side markers, brake lights, OEM fog lights, wipers, starter (cranks and runs) , license plate lights, under dash lights including light for heater control knob, seat belt beeper, gauge cluster lights, horn.

What DOESNT work, Heater blower including rear heater, blinkers, flashers, reverse lights, temp gauge (don't even see the needle now), fuel gauge, amp gauge (needle is out of site now!) , oil gauge ( needle out of site also). All the fuses look to be good. I don't know if the alternator is charging.
Any help is greatly appreciated !!

 

[charliemeyer007]

A simple volt ohm meter set on DC V (20) on the battery when its running at say a fast idle - voltage should read at least 13.6 be better if it was 14.4.

You know those glass tube fuses can look good but actually are bad. Unhook the neg battery terminal. Set VOM on ohm's test each fuse across both contacts to verify its good. Pull each fuse and clean the fuse box contacts with say a bent 30 cal brass bore brush. There can be corrosion on the back side of the fuse box contacts.

Pull the instrument panel (undo the speedo connector) and check all the connections. Do the switches for heaters etc. Most of them can be taken apart and cleaned inside if needed and then they will work again. You can test to see if the motor gets power when the switch is on Yes motor is bad or not grounded No wire/switch is bad.

Get the correct wiring diagram for your rig.

Old wire can be brittle and break inside very easily and yet look good. Corrosion can crawl under the insulation at connectors and not let current flow.

 

[45Dougal]

Instrument problems are often due to the round connector being poorly seated - reach up behind the dash and make sure its fully seated.

For the rest, I'd guess that you have some bad connections at the fuse box - either fuses, or connections on the back.

If you don't have a multimeter then it's time to get one - it won't be the last time you need it

 

[pb4ugo]

It seems all the items that don't work are items that require the key to be turned on.

 

[pb4ugo]

Confirm you have power going to the ING switch and coming out of the ING switch with the key on.

 

[Trollhole]

Make sure you have the heater connector plugged into the correct connector. If I remember correctly there are two almost identical plugs in the harness behind or close to harness that can be swapped. Best to look at wire color.

 

[Buffchief]

Confirm you have power going to the ING switch and coming out of the ING switch with the key on.

When I engage ignition, the seat belt beeper sounds and then stops, lights switch turns on lights etc... gauge cluster lights work, wipers work. Engine starts and runs. Horn works. Just no blinkers/hazards, heater blower and gas, amp, oil, temp gauges dont.

 

[Buffchief]

Instrument problems are often due to the round connector being poorly seated - reach up behind the dash and make sure its fully seated.

For the rest, I'd guess that you have some bad connections at the fuse box - either fuses, or connections on the back.

If you don't have a multimeter then it's time to get one - it won't be the last time you need it

I'll check that out when I get home. Thank you

 

[Buffchief]

Make sure you have the heater connector plugged into the correct connector. If I remember correctly there are two almost identical plugs in the harness behind or close to harness that can be swapped. Best to look at wire color.

I'll take a look. Thanks

 

[Buffchief]

A simple volt ohm meter set on DC V (20) on the battery when its running at say a fast idle - voltage should read at least 13.6 be better if it was 14.4.

You know those glass tube fuses can look good but actually are bad. Unhook the neg battery terminal. Set VOM on ohm's test each fuse across both contacts to verify its good. Pull each fuse and clean the fuse box contacts with say a bent 30 cal brass bore brush. There can be corrosion on the back side of the fuse box contacts.

Pull the instrument panel (undo the speedo connector) and check all the connections. Do the switches for heaters etc. Most of them can be taken apart and cleaned inside if needed and then they will work again. You can test to see if the motor gets power when the switch is on Yes motor is bad or not grounded No wire/switch is bad.

Get the correct wiring diagram for your rig.

Old wire can be brittle and break inside very easily and yet look good. Corrosion can crawl under the insulation at connectors and not let current flow.

Will get on it! Thanks

 

[Buffchief]

Make sure you have the heater connector plugged into the correct connector. If I remember correctly there are two almost identical plugs in the harness behind or close to harness that can be swapped. Best to look at wire color.

 

[Buffchief]

Will take a look at yhat