1980 FJ40 2F… Dying Under Braking

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 21, 2020
Threads
53
Messages
321
Location
USA
Did a few searches on this subject.

This one came from North Carolina ( 2134 above sea level) and now in North Florida ( 200” feet above sea level) . Runs great and idles pretty good… maybe a tiny quick stumble while idling but nothing that makes it try to die/ cut off. Previous owner said it ran great and didn’t have this brake dying issue in NC.

Typical issues to check per search….

1. New brake booster and vaccum line to the intake manifold … no leak that I could find.

2. I’ll check the fuel window for fuel level in the AM.

3. Timing Issue possibly from altitude change.

Any other checks I did catch on search ?

I also found a few un-plugged fittings . Can anyone identify them and advise if they need plugging or possibly the culprit if lucky 😁

IMG_6540.jpeg


IMG_6539.jpeg


IMG_6538.jpeg
 
the two on the firewall are heater core. the one on the VC is a breather, but whats the gold thing on the carb that has no vacuum line?
 
As for the gold, I’ll get a better pic of it and watch it’s attached to. What about the fitting to the right of the heater cores ?

Also looks like I’m gonna need to plumb my heater as well. Hopefully I can find the part numbers for the parts/ hoses.
 
I am basically the most smooth brain LC owner, I have no idea what the other two things are lol one of the experts will chime in shortly. but heater hoses come off the lower radiator hose and the other one im not sure.
 
As for the gold, I’ll get a better pic of it and watch it’s attached to. What about the fitting to the right of the heater cores ?

Also looks like I’m gonna need to plumb my heater as well. Hopefully I can find the part numbers for the parts/ hoses.

It's the PCV valve and should be connected to manifold vacuum. The open port on the valve cover is the breather for the PCV valve. I think it should be connect to one of the ports on the air cleaner. It gets filtered air.
 
Last edited:
my WAG is the engine is not original, the carb is earlier, along with some other stuff.
as stated above several hoses not attached
2 small vacuum ports on top of air cleaner need to be capped off
a few more pics needed,

as for the dying issue when braking, I would disconnect the vacuum line going to the booster and plug it off and see if the issue goes away, I am thinking the booster is leaking, causing the issue.

is there a heater installed? you may want to pressure check the core before hooking it up, the plug in the head can be a bugger to get out for heater return flow

what distributor is in the rig? doesn't look like fresh air flow is hooked up

is your temp gauge working? nothing is in the original location

clutch master fluid could be swapped out as it is very dark
 
Yes… she’s mine now … good or bad. Body and paint look great, electrical is solid so far as all lights and gauges work as they should ( minus water temperature which was asked earlier ) and she runs great other than the dying issue. Starts right up and idles without issue. Warm compression test were 142-145 psi through the cylinders. I’m sure there is a mixture of parts but hopefully just needs some solid TLC to get her across the finish line.

I’ll add some more photos as no doubt I still have some fine tuning to accomplish under the hood.

IMG_6546.jpeg


IMG_6545.jpeg


IMG_6544.jpeg


IMG_6550.jpeg


IMG_6551.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Additional

IMG_6548.jpeg


IMG_6547.jpeg


IMG_6549.jpeg


IMG_6553.jpeg


IMG_6555.jpeg
 
And…. Is this the correct dip stick for a 2F… Way shorter than my 1F.

Again thanks for the help and guidance trying to get her straightened up !!!

IMG_6543.jpeg


IMG_6557.jpeg


IMG_6558.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I think that dip stick is broken. Change oil, put in correct amount - check the stick. Look at online catalogs and compare.
I’ll order one for a 2F. It’s not broken but sure don’t think it’s correct !!

IMG_6559.jpeg
 
Isn’t it the metal piece the hose is attached to ?

IMG_6560.jpeg
 
I’m going to unhook the vacuum hose from booster and check it this evening. I believe I just need to cap the hose to close the vacuum from the intake manifold …correct …
 
that is some interesting throttle linkage

top of the valve cover should have a hose formed in a 90 degree bend to attach to the top of the air cleaner housing
currently the open tube on the top of the air cleaner is sucking in unfiltered air into the engine, not a great idea. also any of the small nipples on the top of the air cleaner will be doing the same thing

non of the lines are hooked up to the charcoal cannister

looks like the choke cable is missing

the oil cooler isn't plumbed in to the coolant system

that dipstick is not from any F, 2F or 3F Landcruiser engine

doesn't look like the vacuum advance on the distributor is hooked up

does the fuel pump have 2 lines attached to it or 3 lines?
 
Again… thanks so much for all the help on this 40!!! This thread turned into a large fix it thread it seems but is greatly appreciated !!!

1. Going to get some hoses tomorrow to connect the VC port to the air cleaner and plugs for unused air cleaner. I attached a picture of the manifold as I assume some of these plugs can be used as manifold vacuum ports. There is only one port and it’s being used by the booster.
IMG_6563.jpeg

IMG_6564.jpeg

2. Can someone post a good link on the charcoal canister hookup. I’ll start on it after the air cleaner . Looks like at-least 3 hoses and the one on the bottom that vents out plus some check valves. Pretty sure the “tank “ labeled fitting / hose goes to the fuel separator behind the B pillar. “Purge” and the unlabeled one I’m not sure on. Plus this engine seems to definitely be “EGR “ deleted !!! 😁
IMG_6568.jpeg


Think this was the hose that once made its way to the Charcoal Canister
IMG_6567.jpeg


3. I have the new choke cable and its installed and works. Just need the carb bracket to hold it and attach it butterfly linkage.

4. Oil cooler ….Yes… looks like they left it out of the loop. I guess I need to ensure the water pump is the correct one for an oil cooler setup before I get a hose kit to plumb it back in. I know some run their rigs without them but I’d prefer to get this one hooked back up if possible. Sure can’t hurt !! Is there a huge issue of not running one?

5. I changed the oil… which looked fresh and put back in the 8.2 qts… definitely not the correct dip stick as it’s didn’t register. New one ordered !!!

6. Dizzy and vaccum advanced. I would assume these 2Fs use the vaccum advanced. If so… no doubt this needs to be hooked up and the timing redone .
IMG_6565.jpeg


7. 3_puppies mentioned the temp gauge not working and it’s not. Any suggestions as to why and best course of action.


It rained like crazy today so I’ll drive it tomorrow with the booster vacuum line pulled and plug . I’ll also check the fuel window on the carb to make sure fuel delivery is as required.
 
for the distributor, you want ported vacuum from the carb, not just any vacuum on the intake.
good call on checking the waterpump for the oil cooler, I forgot about that.
aprox cylinder #5 on the carb side of the head are 2 plugs in the top of the head, 1 was used for temp sensor and 1 was used for heater plumbing, I see the PO has a sensor hooked into the thermostat housing, not sure why?? or maybe that was what they were trying to use for temp?

just noticed it has the stock 79-80 exhaust downpipe
 
It looks like they tried 2 sensors at some point in the thermostat housing. One on top and one on the lower drivers side. I believe the one on the bottom is the current temp gauge which doesn’t work or isn’t accurate it seems.

IMG_6583.png
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom