1979 4x4 starter replacement how to........ and is it my starter?

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Hi everyone,
The starter must be bad in my 1979 4x4 short bed. When you attempt to start the truck you get nothing at all, not even the tell tale clicking sound. HOwever when you have someone else hold the key in the start position, and you hit the starter the truck starts. So it must be bad correct?

If so, how do I replace it? What are the steps?


Thanks,
Zack
 
Bad solenoid contacts. Cost about 2 bucks each and replace in half an hour to 45 minutes if you don't hurry. Including starter R+R.


Mark...
 
Bad solenoid contacts. Cost about 2 bucks each and replace in half an hour to 45 minutes if you don't hurry. Including starter R+R.


Mark...

Can you elaborate on this process? Also the truck only has 37,000 miles on it.

Thank you,
Zack
 
If the contacts are bad, you should get a click. I would check all your connections first, and then if you do tear down the starter, make sure the brushes are free floating and not binding.
 
If the contacts are bad, you should get a click. I would check all your connections first, and then if you do tear down the starter, make sure the brushes are free floating and not binding.

I don't get any click at all! It is dead! And if you hit the starter with the key not being turned to the start position, it will not start. I know that I can get a reman starter for $80.00, so I might go that route. I don't know how to rebuild the starter.

Zack
 
Whaoooooo You figured out how to log onto Mud, you can change the starter contacts, it's no harder than getting the starter out.

Here's some trouble shooting stuff, and you can order the contacts from 4Crawler if that is the problem.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml
 
Does it work everytime when you hit the starter while the key is turned? Maybe there's no relay in the early mini's? Therefor no click....? I would pull the starter and take a look at the contacts, looking should tell you if they are a problem.
 
The click is the solenoid pulling the plunger down and engaging the bendix. If you have to hit it to make it even click, it points to either a bad connection inside the starter, (ground, main cable, etc) or a gummed up plunger. Regardless of what it is, you need to pull the starter and take it apart. The contats are about 8 bucks from kragen and a known weak point, so you might as well put new ones in.


FYI the flow goes something like this: You have constant voltage at your solenoid via the main starter cable. When you turn the key, you provide power to an electromagnet in the solenoid which pulls the plunger toward down. This pulling motion also engages the bendix drive via a shift fork, meshing the bendix gear with the flywheel. When the plunger comes all the way down, a brass ring on the underside of the top flange, seats on two L shaped brass contacts, and sends the constant power from the main starter cable into the starter motor where it spins the armature and goes to ground.

So, If it won't turn, the problem is either contacts, a short in the field coil, or worn out/dirty brushes.

If it won't click, that means the solenoid is not engaging, so you either have a bad solenoid, a dirty solenoid, or a signal voltage problem.

Since your problem can be addressed by hitting the starter, I'd say that you probly have a gummed up solenoid and/or a dirty signal connection from your ignition switch.

So, clean the connections and if that doesn't help, pull it apart, replace the contacts, clean/replace the plunger, bench test and reinstall. total cost, about 10 bucks.
 
Ok,

YOu know I just realized something else while I was reading the posts. Before the starter went TOTALLY dead, sometimes there was a delay between when the key was turned to the start position and the engine turning over. Does that add anything else to the mix?

Thanks,
Zack
 
Ok,

YOu know I just realized something else while I was reading the posts. Before the starter went TOTALLY dead, sometimes there was a delay between when the key was turned to the start position and the engine turning over. Does that add anything else to the mix?

Thanks,
Zack
For me that was the remaining Mud in the Windings, after a few uses it's back to working normally. The Solonoid is easy to clean, but the Windings aren't.
 
wow, 37K miles on a '79! it must have been owned by seniors at some point or only used for hunting/4x4. Never see first gen. pickups with that low of mileage. Eligible for collector plates I might add too, I bet it looks nice.
 
wow, 37K miles on a '79! it must have been owned by seniors at some point or only used for hunting/4x4. Never see first gen. pickups with that low of mileage. Eligible for collector plates I might add too, I bet it looks nice.

Nope, rusty as heck.... don't rack up too may mies plowing parking lots.
 
Nope, rusty as heck.... don't rack up too may mies plowing parking lots.

Yeah I know! I wish it was not so rusted, it was make a great resto project! Well someday I might find a good frame in CA or some dry place to rebuild it!


Zack
 
So how hard is it to R&R the starter on my 79 20r motor? Can you get your hands in there? I think I might try to od this job myself, and I don't have any clue on R&R the actual starter.

Thanks,
Zack
 
It is Easy.

Two bolts, a nut, and a plug IIRC. Access from the bottom is the easiest.
 
Don't forget to disconnect the battery first!!
 
37K miles and a billion parking lot and short trip starts on his truck

my truck with 191K has only seen a million, im sure.

i always advise against replacing the starters. it has been in my experince that the remans are built with no quaility control. so your better off with no starter than a reman.
which translates to +1 on changing the contacts
 
oh, there may be a small panel on the enginge side of the inner fender well that you can unbolt for better acess. its has 8 bolts that require a 10mm wrench.

i know the ifs trucks have em, but i cant remember if the solid axle trucks do too. :doh:
 

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