1978 M416A1 Build (3 Viewers)

[ntsqd]

Research this, but I recall reading somewhere that the US Military used silicone fluid in some age range, but not always.
There is no reason that can ever justify using silicone fluid to me. None. BT, DT with a truck that I bought with that stuff in it and I got to flush it out with Isopropyl Alcohol and refill with glycol based fluid.

 

[woytovich]

Do you want/need the surge brakes? I'm really ignorant of their value but "less is more" if they won't be of use for you. I ran an M416 with no brakes behind my 60 for a few years, typically loaded with 5 36" swampers + a trailer spare plus spare parts like driveshafts, tie/relay rods and a couple of 5 gallon gas/water cans and never really felt it back there.

 

[iptman]

Do you want/need the surge brakes? I'm really ignorant of their value but "less is more" if they won't be of use for you. I ran an M416 with no brakes behind my 60 for a few years, typically loaded with 5 36" swampers + a trailer spare plus spare parts like driveshafts, tie/relay rods and a couple of 5 gallon gas/water cans and never really felt it back there.

Yeah probably don't need it but it is there so figured I'd explore it.

 

[woytovich]

Getting rid of it would simplify extending the tongue.

 

[iptman]

Got some work done today. Pulled the tub, wiring harness, tail lights and started on the brake lines. It was nice to see dielectric grease still in all the connections and not one broken bolt or screw. All the frame grommets for the wiring harness pass throughs all came out in one piece too. Next I'll pull the brake drums and disconnect the hard lines and parking brake. If I did decide to bag the surge brakes can I leave the wheel cylinders in there and just cap the brake line inlets? I still want the parking brake to function.

 

[ntsqd]

Can buy plugs for the wheel cylinders. If the wrenching hex on the tube nuts was 3/8" then they're likely a 5/16 fine bolt thread. I've used regular fine thread bolts to plug this type of port for a short time, but you risk damaging the sealing cone in the cylinders. Maybe that matters and maybe it doesn't.

 

[KZN130Alabama]

Looks like it's coming along. I just picked one up myself two weeks ago. I got it sandblasted and then spent last week raptor lining the entire thing. Trying to decide what my next step is now.

 

[iptman]

Question on wheels. These military tires are tubed right? Do you think Costco can/will put tubeless tires on them? They're 16x4.5 I believe, what size wheel and tire would I go with if I was buying both new from Tire rack? Are these original wheels and tires valued by the military Jeep crowd?

 

[ntsqd]

If the centers of those wheels are riveted to the rims then they probably won't work for tubeless. If they are welded, then they might. Depends on their policies.

No idea of their value.

 

[iptman]

Here's the back side of the rims. They appear to be riveted.

 

[KZN130Alabama]

Question on wheels. These military tires are tubed right? Do you think Costco can/will put tubeless tires on them? They're 16x4.5 I believe, what size wheel and tire would I go with if I was buying both new from Tire rack? Are these original wheels and tires valued by the military Jeep crowd?

I’m not sure if certain places will give you trouble but I know a lot of people run tubeless on them. I’m going with a 235/85/R16 if I remember correctly. There are several tubeless options in a 7.5x16 that mimic the military design but I'm going with a more traditional sizing because it opens up the options.

 

[iptman]

I took apart the lunette, master cylinder, surge brakes mechanism and pulled the brake lines. The inside width of this carrier is exactly 3 inches. My working plan is to use 3 inch square tube to extend the lunette since the lunette is already a separate piece.

 

[iptman]

I can get a replacement Dorman MC but I'm not sure about that shock that was inside the carrier.

 

[iptman]

Is there any reason not to re-use this? It's not leaking and I can compress and extend it. Replacement is $164.

 

[iptman]

Also, I think the inside bearing on one side is stuck to the spindle and I can't get the brake drum off. Anyone have any tips to get the drum off?

 

[KZN130Alabama]

Is there any reason not to re-use this? It's not leaking and I can compress and extend it. Replacement is $164.

View attachment 2893523

I'm reusing mine but only because I wasn't doing a complete restoration but just getting it to a safe and usable status.

 

[ntsqd]

Given the blue color I'm guessing it's a Monroe. Have you tried looking thru their dimensions listing to see if you can find it?

I take it that you've backed off the shoe adjustment as far as it will go?

 

[iptman]

Given the blue color I'm guessing it's a Monroe. Have you tried looking thru their dimensions listing to see if you can find it?

I take it that you've backed off the shoe adjustment as far as it will go?

I haven't really messed with that. There's plenty of room between the shoes and the drums. The drums come off about an inch and a half. If feels like the grease seal is catching on the stuck bearing race on the spindle.

 

[ntsqd]

Big 3 jaw puller then. HF is great for this sort of thing if you don't have one big enough. Some parts stores loan or rent pullers like this too.

 

[iptman]

Got it off. Basically had to pound out the inner race and by proxy the oil seal from the outside with a long punch. 3 jaw puller to get the bearing off the spindle. The wheel cylinders were dry on the outside and wet on the inside. I think I'm going to pull them apart, vaporust them and put them back together. Plenty of pad material left. I don't see how to pull the parking brake cable off the backing plate so I'll just leave that all together.