1977 Coleman Concord Pop-Up Build (1 Viewer)

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Looking very cool and groovy. ;) Your suggestion with the added leaf spring and bump stop is likely the easiest possible solution.

-Daniel Kent
 
As I just posted in the leaf spring thread, shackle angle can play a large role in effective spring rate. The more laid over they are, the lower the rate and the softer the ride.

Do they/can they go over-center and lock up the suspension? If they can't then I wouldn't worry to much about the angle as a soft ride will keep the beer from foaming and the eggs from breaking.

However, if they can go over-center then you need to take steps to prevent it. One option is to cut loose the shackle mount spacer tubes from the frame and move them rearwards an inch or so. This will steepen up the shackle angle making it harder for the shackles to go over-center, but it will also increase the effective spring rate.
Another is to add the suggested bump stops. I'm torn between where I'd mount them were it my trailer. I'd be really tempted to put them where the rear spring eye will hit them and space them down such that the shackles can't go over-center rather than the traditional mounting spot for bump stops.

I fear that sewing is a dying art form, and that is a crying shame.
 
another option would be to change the main spring. find one at the junk yard that is just a bit shorter.

just a thought.
 
Adventure Copan- Thanks! :)


ntsqd- I noticed your post recently in the other suspension thread also. Very timely thread by the way. I'm sure I'll be wrestling with this suspension a bit in the near future. I definitely want a softer ride, for the beer, and for better off-road handling. I plan to use this pop up to access mild-to moderate wheeling/camping spots. It will be used on road a bit, but also off road as well- nothing too gnarly though. I'm concerned with the shackle angle, but figure I'll just have to test it all out to see what I need to do...

Sewing- I agree. I'm also planning to teach myself how to sew soon as well! :)


Muleysam- Hmmm, that's another good idea... :)



Thanks again everybody for following along and providing me with feedback, ideas, positive comments, etc. I really appreciate it.


Cheers, Carlos.
 
Here's a couple more pics of the rear bumper/rear suspension... just cause.




The axle/tire width came out about perfect... the tire tucks up into the inside and I'll be building an inner fender well to accommodate it.




Here' the new ball mount that Graeme at G-Fab whipped up last minute for a better ride height attached to the Max Coupler... its beefy.

 
I got busy with the primering and painting part of the job. I prepped the old/new frame lightly, masked off the outer/inner walls and then applied two light coats each of both primer and paint. It came out decent and I'm happy with that.


About to get after it!




Masking and primering...













Worst of the corners where the main leak did the most damage... forcing our decision to descend down the rabbit hole.




I have one last coat/touch up left before I peel and take a better look. Soon. :)
 
Sneak pics of paint in progress...









Paint is done. I'll get some better pics soon. :)


Since I lifted this pop up, I need to extend the stabilizer jacks. The original jacks are decent, but just too short. I found similar stabilizers that were a few inches longer. I purchased four new ones, but I was only able to fit the longer ones on the rear. I had to auger out the holes for the larger bolt in the frame, and the front stabilizers were just too long. May end up modifying/lengthening the jacks we already have. Even the new jacks are still an inch or two short.

Here are the two together...




I also picked up this step recently. Its wide and stout.





Oh, and I finally threw down my first beads. Matt came by and taught me the basics and helped fire up my free-to-me welder. WOOOOOOT!


 
For the stabilizers, cut off the foot on them and find a tube that fits inside loose enough to slide, but not too loose (can build up the corners with weld bead for a better fit). Cut one end at the same angle as the stabilizer's end and weld the foot onto it. Slip inside until the foot rests against where it was cut off of and drill a hole thru everything. Then fold the stabilizer down and the foot resting on the ground use the existing hole to guide drilling a new hole in the inner tube. Then drill a couple more holes on either side of the second hole in the inner tube. Use a pin in those holes to secure and set the length as needed. This is how my TrailBlazer's stabilizers like the lower one in your pic were modified. It only has the stabilizers on the rear. I use the tongue jack up front (choose a serious unit!). Those three points make quick work of leveling the trailer.

<Edit in italics>
 
Last edited:
ntsqd- Thanks again for the tip! I've seen a few similar ways of doing the same basic thing with the stabilizers. I'll probably do exactly what you mention, eventually. I have an upgraded tongue jack now already as well. Just need to source the right metal stock and then give it a try...
 
Soooo, my wife has been nagging me to use the pop up lately... and soooo we're gonna try to go camping in it this weekend. :)


I'm frantically slapping this thing together to make it almost roadworthy. Busting out a few basics needs... Here we go.

I'm trying to get the subfloor installed and that now requires wheelwells. The old setup didn't, but due to the lift, bigger tires, and relatively low COG, wheelwells are now a must. I figure I'd try to fab some up. Why not?

What I started with...






Turned that into this...



 
ntsqd said:
For the stabilizers, cut off the foot on them and find a tube that fits inside loose enough to slide, but not too loose (can build up the corners with weld bead for a better fit). Cut one end at the same angle as the stabilizer's end and weld the foot onto it. Slip inside until the foot rests against where it was cut off of and drill a hole thru everything. Then fold the stabilizer down and the foot resting on the ground use the existing hole to guide drilling a new hole in the inner tube. Then drill a couple more holes on either side of the second hole in the inner tube. Use a pin in those holes to secure and set the length as needed. This is how my TrailBlazer's stabilizers like the lower one in your pic were modified. It only has the stabilizers on the rear. I use the tongue jack up front (choose a serious unit!). Those three points make quick work of leveling the trailer.

<Edit in italics>
Click to expand...
Quoting myself to draw attention to my edit. doh!!

If you can I would place the fender wells directly on the frame and then bring the subfloor down on top of them. The reason being that with the fender wells on top of the sub floor you now have edges of the subfloor exposed to all of the wet that will occasionally be in there with the tire. While it's true that there are ways to seal the plywood, I think it better to avoid the whole issue altogether.
 
After test fitting the floor pieces, I then sanded the tops and applied a few coats of urethane to protect it somewhat.








Then I applied Duplicolor Bed Armor to the edges and underside of both pieces, again to protect it somewhat.










Once everything dried, I tossed both pieces in the pop up again to focus on fitting the fenders. The frame/underside is basically complete now- still need to deal with a couple details, but I'll explain that later...


 
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