your side panels and ambo doors are off color just like mine. great looking rig.
1976 FJ40 Build Up/Resto Thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Nomis
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #142
I fabbed up some brackets to mount it where the window washer fluid container was originally. This location permits the fan to draw in cool air from the side vent. I used a normally closed relay (SPDT - I believe) wired to the ignition fuse box. When the ignition is ON, the relay is open, when the ignition is OFF - the relay is closed. So the fan will only run when the thermostat reads high enough and the ignition is OFF.
Here are the part numbers etc.
The relay I used is an Echlin AR102 relay - from a 1972-1984 Ford A/C blower cutoff switch: Price: $12.99
https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...193328227&An=0
The adjustable Thermostat control w/probe is made by Hayden - part number 226203: Price: $17.99
OEM: 226203 | Electric Fan Thermostat | AutoZone.com
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #143
Jump Seats
PO gave me a set of jump seats when I bought it. Decided to have them redone. I don't think they are the original seats from my 2/76 - anyone know which year these would have come out of? IIRC the 76 would not have the kickstands and would have had rubber bumpers on the bottom of the seat frame instead. That said, I think the stand is probably more stable anyhow
Had them sandblasted and powder-coated gloss black by the same place that did my roll bar. Then had a local upholstery shop add some new foam and vinyl - turned out well. The seat belts are from CCOT IIRC and are long enough to be used as a strap to hold them upright when not in use - works well.
PO gave me a set of jump seats when I bought it. Decided to have them redone. I don't think they are the original seats from my 2/76 - anyone know which year these would have come out of? IIRC the 76 would not have the kickstands and would have had rubber bumpers on the bottom of the seat frame instead. That said, I think the stand is probably more stable anyhow
Had them sandblasted and powder-coated gloss black by the same place that did my roll bar. Then had a local upholstery shop add some new foam and vinyl - turned out well. The seat belts are from CCOT IIRC and are long enough to be used as a strap to hold them upright when not in use - works well.
Last edited:
No, those aren't original. Late '78 on. There are variations thru that range as well so I can't give you a specific year. Your '76 would've had bump stops.
same thickness as the original sheet metal
hi nomis,
first congrat for your good work and your time sharing it on this forum.
I am looking for a thrusted reference about metal oem thickness to repair : main frame, inner frame, brackets, metal sheet on 1967 fj40, 1077 bj40, 1979 fj45. and i read over many post that oem gauge changes with years.
my question: when you said it's the same gauge as original. you assume it by measuring or from a reputable reference?
regards
hi nomis,
first congrat for your good work and your time sharing it on this forum.
I am looking for a thrusted reference about metal oem thickness to repair : main frame, inner frame, brackets, metal sheet on 1967 fj40, 1077 bj40, 1979 fj45. and i read over many post that oem gauge changes with years.
my question: when you said it's the same gauge as original. you assume it by measuring or from a reputable reference?
regards
- Thread starter
- #146
The steel I used is 16 gauge which is approximately 1.5mm thick off the top of my head. I bought mine from a distributor in Tampa that specializes in sheet metal. I believe they had to special order it for me as they didn't stock it normally.
metal thickness
i got these measurement on 3 different LC
so 16 gauge make sense to me
thanks for reply
take care
guy
i got these measurement on 3 different LC
so 16 gauge make sense to me
thanks for reply
take care
guy
- Thread starter
- #148
AC Install
I have been considering installing A/C for a while now. Finally had some time after recently graduating law school and prior to studying for the bar. I decided to go with the Old Air Products cool only unit which is similar in appearance to the OEM Nippondenso under dash unit. With this kit, you retain all of your original heating system which was the look I was going for. Here are the details:
-A/C Kit: Old Air Products CAP-200B (with front mounted controls delete - controls are located remotely in the dash)
- Vintage Air compressor and alternator bracket: P/N 15465-VTB (Tell Old Air products you do not need their bracket and they will credit you when you order) I picked up the Vintage Air bracket from Summit.
- The Old Air products kit will come with all the hoses, drier, compressor and condenser but you will need to have the fittings crimped on once you sort out where you want your lines installed.
Bracket, Bracket Installed, Backside of Bracket:
I have been considering installing A/C for a while now. Finally had some time after recently graduating law school and prior to studying for the bar. I decided to go with the Old Air Products cool only unit which is similar in appearance to the OEM Nippondenso under dash unit. With this kit, you retain all of your original heating system which was the look I was going for. Here are the details:
-A/C Kit: Old Air Products CAP-200B (with front mounted controls delete - controls are located remotely in the dash)
- Vintage Air compressor and alternator bracket: P/N 15465-VTB (Tell Old Air products you do not need their bracket and they will credit you when you order) I picked up the Vintage Air bracket from Summit.
- The Old Air products kit will come with all the hoses, drier, compressor and condenser but you will need to have the fittings crimped on once you sort out where you want your lines installed.
Bracket, Bracket Installed, Backside of Bracket:
- Thread starter
- #149
I also used a wide groove single pulley on the A/C clutch - Old Air p/n: 21-4515. The wider pulley matches the width of the other factory pulleys on my '76.
The compressor itself is a Sanden 510 model IIRC.
The condenser is 18x17 and took some work to shoe horn it in place - but it will fit. I had to modify c-channel in the horizontal radiator support to permit the condenser to sit flush in front of the radiator and behind the front bib. You will also notice the smaller power steering cooler mounted to the right side of the condenser.
The drier (aka receiver) is mounted on the pillar in front of the firewall.
The belt for the a/c, alternator, wp, crank is Napa p/n: 22588 - though it was a tight fit and I would recommend going with a belt an inch longer.
For the compressor hard line fittings I used lines that angle down and back for a cleaner install: Old Air p/n: 12-0054
Belt Routing, Condenser installed, Drier Installed:
The compressor itself is a Sanden 510 model IIRC.
The condenser is 18x17 and took some work to shoe horn it in place - but it will fit. I had to modify c-channel in the horizontal radiator support to permit the condenser to sit flush in front of the radiator and behind the front bib. You will also notice the smaller power steering cooler mounted to the right side of the condenser.
The drier (aka receiver) is mounted on the pillar in front of the firewall.
The belt for the a/c, alternator, wp, crank is Napa p/n: 22588 - though it was a tight fit and I would recommend going with a belt an inch longer.
For the compressor hard line fittings I used lines that angle down and back for a cleaner install: Old Air p/n: 12-0054
Belt Routing, Condenser installed, Drier Installed:
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #150
Finally, I installed the evaporator under the pax side dash. Had to trim the bottom of the dash pad. Then measured twice before cutting the holes in the firewall with a 1 1/2" hole saw. Grommets are provided with the kit to protect the hoses. Then I had all hoses crimped locally. Drew a vacuum on the system to check for leaks - no leaks first time. The remote fan and temp controls fit in pre-existing holes in the dash - after I opened them up a bit with the dremel. I also drilled out a 1/2" hole for the drain line. Finally, I had the system pressurized and then filled with the appropriate amount of R-134a at a professional a/c shop here in Tampa. The system blows colder than my other more modern vehicles at this point. Drove it to the beach yesterday and it worked like a champ in 90* weather with Florida humidity. The truck should get more use now and the wife and I won't arrive at destinations with sweaty backs anymore. All told I have about $1100 in the system at this point give or take which is cheaper than similar systems available that I considered.
Evaporator Installed, Hose routing:
Evaporator Installed, Hose routing:
Last edited:
I realize this is an old thread but was wondering how you did the "knob delete" on the evaporator? I'm currently getting ready to order the same set-up (yours looks as close to original as I could find) and Jay at Old Air Systems said that a "delete" is not an option but I could either plug the holes when I moved the knobs or I could glue a similar piece of plastic over the area where I remove the knobs?
Nomis,
Where did you get the rain gutter or was yours in good shape? Mine is shot. Also in the process of making a lot of rust repairs. Some not as bad as what you had, hopefully. I'm still in the paint stripping stage as previous PO had the rig painted about 5 years ago and it appears a lot of bondo was used to cover rust spots and not very good repairs at that. So, your thread was a wealth of information.
