- Thread starter
- #61
Sorry for the late reply - they are the stock steel rims, and are 15x5.5" IIRC
1976 FJ40 Build Up/Resto Thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Nomis
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Sorry for the late reply - they are the stock steel rims, and are 15x5.5" IIRC
- Thread starter
- #62
Got some time in on the truck:
- New bushings all the way around - old bushings were shot
- 1 1/2" CCOT shackles up front
- Greasable spring pins
- New U bolts up front, still need to shorten the new rear U-bolts prior to install
- New bushings all the way around - old bushings were shot
- 1 1/2" CCOT shackles up front
- Greasable spring pins
- New U bolts up front, still need to shorten the new rear U-bolts prior to install
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- Thread starter
- #63
Steering was darty so I picked up some 4* caster correction shims both from MAF and CCOT. The CCOT shims have a smaller hole and are cast aluminum. MAF's had a larger hole and are billet aluminum. I ended up installing the MAF shims as the billet is supposedly stronger. . . we'll see how they hold up?
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- Thread starter
- #65
Took it for a test drive and the combination of the refreshed suspension, tires, and rag joint made it markedly esier to drive - it takes bumps in the road now without darting around. It also doesn't follow the ruts in the road like it did before. Most of this is probably due to the caster correction shims - which were cheap by the way, if you're having similar issues. I need to get up under there and re-torque everything at some point.
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- Thread starter
- #66
Not a heckuva lot to report. I recently purchased a Pertronix II Ignitor and Coil - thanks Mark. Installed it last night and figured I would post up a few tips for the next guy. If you try to use the existing points exit point, the wires are so close to the ignitor that they rub up against the screw post when the cam rotates under advance. To solve this I had to drill another hole about 1" away to allow adequate movement. I then plugged the original hole with a rubber plug I had lying around to prevent dust/moisture from getting in. I also had to grind a little material off of the base plate to allow adequate movement of the cam arm pivot. Hopefully the pic clarifies things a bit. Also, the Pertronix magnet fit a bit loose on the shaft so I shimmed it with some electrical tape to pick up the slack. Then tested everything out - it started up on the first try, but then stalled ?!? A quick check of the carb sight glass revealed no fuel - it just ran out of gas - doh! Put some gas in the tank and she started right back up and ran like a champ without issue - nice and smooth. I need to replace my fuel guage at some point before I start driving this thing regularly. 
keep at it Nomis you are smashin it you will have a nice ride when you are finished it,i done a full on resto on mine,luckily rust free it was and when you finish and get to drive her it is a great feelin,good on ya
Very nice. How was it learning to use the MIG welder and does the Pertronix retrofit into your existing distributor?
1973Guppie
Supporting Vendor
can you give us more info on the distributor, did you swap from a points style dist to a petronix type by simply replacing that red box? does someone sell a kit to do this? I would like to do the same if I can do this on my 70 fj55
Jacket
Moderator
Really nice thread here. I've got my eyes on a 76 right now, and if it comes through, your thread will be a great resource for me.
This is seriously your first round with a MIG welder? Then there's hope for me yet.... Really great work!
This is seriously your first round with a MIG welder? Then there's hope for me yet.... Really great work!
- Thread starter
- #71
Alex and Guppie: The Pertronix Ignitor kit replaces the points inside the distributor. The points come out and the "red box" goes in along with the magnetic sleeve/pickup on the shaft. It really is that simple. Here's a link: Ignitor II
I picked up a new coil from the same company, but I believe you can run your old one without issue. That said, the distributor I'm running is an early, vacum advance distributor - not the OE '76 distributor. I believe the 70 and 73 dizzy will be the same. A few examples are listed at the bottom of this page: Specter Off-Road-Land Cruiser Parts - Page 042-Carburetion
Quite a few places sell the Pertronix kit - I would recommend the Pertronix Ignitor II kit as it prevents the unit from burning out if the ignition key is left on by accident. Mark's Offroad has them, I believe SOR has them, and some have said that even NAPA carries them, although I haven't check.
Points will work fine if maintained, and I have kept my old points set up in a ziplock bag in case I ever need it as a spare. The benefit of the electronic set up is a clean, reliable setup with practically no maintenace to speak of.
Jacobs Electronics also makes an electronic ignition but it is a bit bulkier - the Pertronix is self-contained.
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- Thread starter
- #72
I've had my fair share of problems along the way, but I think anyone can pick up MIG welding - there's not too much to it. The grinder always trumps the welder - so if a mistake is made it's easy enough to grind it down and start over. There's some good info on welders on the board - if you're thinking about picking one up.
- Thread starter
- #73
The hood had a few spots that needed to be addressed. Same routine:
- Cut out old metal
- Trace the old metal on to card stock and cut card stock - test fit card stock to opening.
- Trace card stock onto metal sheet and cut out patch
- Weld in patch
- Grind welds down
- Weld up pin holes - use a light on the reverse side to find them
- Grind
- Prime
- Cut out old metal
- Trace the old metal on to card stock and cut card stock - test fit card stock to opening.
- Trace card stock onto metal sheet and cut out patch
- Weld in patch
- Grind welds down
- Weld up pin holes - use a light on the reverse side to find them
- Grind
- Prime
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- Thread starter
- #74
Had a few spots in the driver's side floor pan that will need new metal. But first I had to remove the OEM sound deadening rubber mat. Used a 1600w heat gun to get the rubber to become tacky and pliable - then used a scraper to get under it and scrape it off. This is slow going. Apply heat, scrape, heat, scrape . . . Finally got most of it off and then used some acetone to clean it up further. I know most folks curse the OEM rubber matting, but where it was sealed to the metal - it actually protected it. The rust in the pic was in areas where the matting did not seal completely and so moisture took it's toll. I have seen worse, so this shouldn't be too bad to take care of. I will need to remove the trans hump and make up some more metal patches at some point.
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- #75
I decided it was time to take off the doors to gain better access to weld in the floor well patches. The doors themselves came off easy enough but the hinge pins were a son of a gun. Two hinges came off simply by whacking the pin from the underside and then using a small diameter brass drift to fit in the bore and pop it out the rest of the way - these two were the top hinges on both the pax and driver's side. The bottom hinge on the driver's side was a pain - the pin was like it was bent or rust/welded into place and no amount of whacking it with the bfh was going to break it loose. I ended up having to cut out the hinge. I cut out the middle of the hinge with a cutoff wheel, then ground off the top of the hinge pin and they finally let go. I did not damage the outer door hinge receiver on the pillar. The pax side lower hinge looked like it was going to be the same but all I had to do was grind off the upper crown of the pin flat with the hinge and then whack it down with the an old pin that was pulled from one of the other hinges - it must have been a little smaller diameter because it didn't get hung up in the bore while shoving the other pin out of the hinge.
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that is a floor pan not well. Good work.
PS; check out a punch and flange tool for you future larger panels
PS; check out a punch and flange tool for you future larger panels
Are you using the bondo that is fiberglassed based. I hear it is more water resistant.
Which keeps the bondo from asorbing water that causes more rust issues. My auto paint store recomended it. And the seam sealer that is not Uv hardened.
Which keeps the bondo from asorbing water that causes more rust issues. My auto paint store recomended it. And the seam sealer that is not Uv hardened.
great work, thanks for posting it up!
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- #80
No filler as of yet. Where there was rusty metal - its cut out and replaced with new. I will end up using some Rage Gold to make everything flat and purdy after I'm done with the metal work.
